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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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When I bought my truck the pistons in the rear calipers were basically totally worn away. Yes, it was that bad. Rotors were basically half eaten through.

 

I don't understand where the possible thread damage is with the harmonic balancer??? Just slide it on then put the big bolt through and tighten? Although, now that I think about it... the first time I took it off I had to use a puller, but since then it just goes on and off by hand no problem. Maybe if it is tight going on you can't thread the big bolt in properly...

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I'm not sure the gauge is entirely linear...

In the older clusters with the analog (hot wire) type voltage regulators they can be pretty close.

I calibrated mine so 3/4 is 5 gallons and half is 10 gallons... It starts to loose accuracy when it gets below 1/4.

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Ripped out the junky old non working power antenna.... and replaced it with a new ugly rubber thing...

old_one.jpg

Looked brand new... just didnt work and reception was terrible.

 

installed.jpg

Ugly little bastage... but hey at least I can listen to the radio now...

 

Also scored some more parts for the upcoming SAS...

 

Track bar, 2x brand spankin new BDS lift shocks, and a mini spool for the 44... All for $85 bucks. Woo hoo!

parts1.jpg

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Yesterday, I removed and tried to reseat the left-rear red running/brake light.

 

I knew one of the rear running/brake lights was not working because the ABS brake light would stay lit.

 

 

 

 

Now I'm wondering if I should fix the rear license plate lights...... Question is, do I want to be seen and known that much? :shrug:

 

 

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Am I ever glad I work at good ol'CT; I got some afterwork-time in the shop...air tools, tire machine, hoist, the works!

 

gave me a chance to finally get my spare off the old steely and onto the proper al-you-min-ium wheel :rolleyes: soooo shiney!

 

cleaned out the K&N cone for the CAI...what a mess that was(first timer here).

 

Finally got my hands on a timing light to reset the timing but when I set it to 12 the idle goes up to 1200. Adjust the idle screw you say? its maxxed out, I can't :shrug: so 15 it is for now I guess.

 

I started a thread in here about my engine quitting when I let off the gas...got that solved.....dashpot yeah.

 

AND....drum roll...scored 2 free tires :aok: ...buutt one is a full size spare(no wear) and the other is at 1/2 tread. So, the big question for any experienced members is- Is that enough of a difference on a normal LT tire to eff up my diffs? I'm a little worried, but if anyone in running like that with no problems (front and rear) please lemme know as i would really like to save the $300

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Not mine, but pulled a 41,000 mile VG from Japan out of an '87. Lost oil pressure when it warmed up and had some serious cold start bearing knock to it for a second. The sump had a crap load of like thick grease but it didn't smell like burned sludge but the oil was normal. The burned oil inside the bearings sure stunk up the whole shop for a while though.

 

Main bearings are fried, crank journals are scored to hell, and 4 of 6 rod bearings are pitted and scored.

0216121624.jpg

 

Whoever put this engine in is a jackass and needs to never touch a vehicle again. There was a good 1/4" of oil and grime on every surface because they didn't tighten the oil pan bolts or valve cover bolts down very much (barely more than finger tight on some), then tried to stop the leaks by smearing RVT all over the outside of the pan. There were loose nuts and bolts everywhere else too. Bell housing bolts, CV axle bolts, diff bolts, etc. Then the totally hacked together starter harness... yeah the thing was a train wreck.

 

I'm keeping the heads but that's it. I'm assuming the oil pump is totally gummed up from the grease or just plain bad, I'll find out tomorrow I guess. If it's still good I'll keep it and port it.

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Aluminum bearings don't get along with the crank very well without oil man. It was only ran with no oil pressure for maybe 10 miles, but possibly low oil pressure for longer.

Edited by Kingman
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Tonight I built a set of headers for my Pathy:

 

2012-02-17_01-13-51_354.jpg

 

:aok:

 

Tomorrow I'll take them to be ceramic coated. Next up will be prototyping the Y pipe I'm going to produce for these trucks. I'm going to do full exhaust with a Flowmaster at the same time so this VG34 can finally breathe. I can't wait to see what it pulls like when it's not exhaling through a damned straw! :jig:

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The power antenna and standard mast fenders are different unfortunately.

That's one of those, what the hell was Nissan thinking things. I've got a spare set of black fenders with standard antenna in my garage. Now I just need to score a standard antenna.

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That's one of those, what the hell was Nissan thinking things. I've got a spare set of black fenders with standard antenna in my garage. Now I just need to score a standard antenna.

My new to me pathy at one time had a power antenna (SE model) but the fenders were replaced years ago and they put a standard fender on, so it has some aftermarket "for nissan fenders" adapter on it so you can put any old black screw on mast on. I honestly think it looks retarded and would rather have an oem one. Either that, or find a power antenna that fits the standard antenna fender, since I'm kinda OCD that way lol.

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couldn't you just swap it over to a factory standard mast antenna?

 

Nope, already tried that... actually snagged one from a JY the other day...

 

The power antenna and standard mast fenders are different unfortunately.

 

Yes and amen.

 

That's one of those, what the hell was Nissan thinking things. I've got a spare set of black fenders with standard antenna in my garage. Now I just need to score a standard antenna.

 

X2

 

My new to me pathy at one time had a power antenna (SE model) but the fenders were replaced years ago and they put a standard fender on, so it has some aftermarket "for nissan fenders" adapter on it so you can put any old black screw on mast on. I honestly think it looks retarded and would rather have an oem one. Either that, or find a power antenna that fits the standard antenna fender, since I'm kinda OCD that way lol.

 

I thought about putting a motorized unit back in, but I could not justify spending that kind of money... the $10 rubber flexy thing works....

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Got my Optima Yellow Top via UPS today... :D ...replaced both battery terminal connectors and got the battery installed.......ran wires to go to the rear cargo area to install a couple of cigarette lighter plugs.....one for my Streamlight and the other for whatever comes up... :shrug: ...got two new to me side panels for the rear cargo area from the j/y to replace mine since I am pulling the ones with the speakers built in.....gonna build a platform next and put the speakers on top and put some drawers on one side and the sub and second battery on the other...... :aok:

 

while at the j/y, found 3 JGCs....am going back to get the springs....I asked, and they are $20 a piece.....the lift is gonna come a lot quicker than expected!!!! Whoooo Hooooo!!!!!!!! :beer:

Edited by Meandmy92Pathy
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Not quoting every antenna reply but...

The power antenna and standard mast fenders are different unfortunately.

... That IS an unfortunate inconvenience which now makes me happy that I got 2 spare fenders with normal antennas incase my future purchase has a power one

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My PF had the power antenna but it was missing when I bought the truck, I ordered a replacement fixed antenna from Crutchfield and cut the round hole to a rectangle to make the antenna fit, it left a slight gap along one edge that I filled in for now with black silicone, not the prettiest but it works

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