adamzan

I'm pretty sure they are the same for the VG30 and 33. You can also check nissan part numbers at courtesyparts.com.

Pulled mine into the garage for the winter. I've committed myself to a DIY restore of the thing. So that will start with replacing the crunched in drivers rear quarter behind the tire. Had another member here slice the part off of their parts rig so hopefully that goes okay. I will post pictures of course.

Since you're in Ontario, I have a spare glove box from my parts truck that you can have, if you end up breaking yours. From my 94 round dash.

It is the door lock timer box itself. Mine did it as well. Only in the cold weather, it was due to the solder joints cracking on the board. I re flowed the solder on them and never had another problem. IIRC it is behind the panel in the drivers side cargo area. Just have someone actuate the locks and you'll hear it.

I know some of them didn't come with the bulb for the engine light or the label for it, but apparently if you take the cluster out and fill in any missing bulbs, one of them is actually the engine light. Dumb, I know.

While it sounds like it is the issue they have, it certainly isn't a common failure point on the 2001+ RE4R01A. There are loads of first gen xterras around with 250K+ on the original transmission. When my 1995 lost reverse it would work fine in the cold when the fluid was thick. But I believe it is more a varnish issue than broken parts, simply because adding a can of seafoam trans tune would literally "Fix" it for months at a time. OP I would try flushing the fluid out and testing the line pressure. If it's low, you know where to go from there.

The xterra hoses are pretty different, I have an xterra and a pathfinder. Pathfinder uses banjo bolts while the xterra has a flared fitting, like a large brake line to the steering box. A lot easier to just use the adapter (which really is just a new balancer your pulley set bolts to), than futz around with making custom ps and ac lines. Plus I didn't have to discharge my aircon. I just want what drops in the easiest and won't be too much hassle for anyone in the future who has to order parts or work on it.

Did you use an oem distributor or an aftermarket? The aftermarket ones are dodgy at best, I had to warranty mine 3 times before I got a good one. The 2nd one lasted 10km...

Easier to just remove the plenum. It isn't that hard and your hands will thank you.

If you have the adjustable shocks still there's a good chance they are pretty worn out by now. If you can find some new old stock they are great if not the bilstein ones make an excellent replacement.

For the 3.3 swap, if you want to keep all the VG30 accessories you can get a pulley adapter for the crank from Mr.510. Not sure if he has them in stock but he did have an ebay store.

I love the detail going into this build. I'm more of a slap the new parts in and install it kinda guy. Admire your patience.

I might delete on those lines next time I'm in there. Not sure about you but I don't like patching frames anymore so I don't drive my current wd21 in the winter salt lol.

The aftermarket distributors are hit and miss. They don't usually fail on the VG30, that's more of a VG33 thing. The bearing fails and causes the optical sensor to read wrong.

Yeah, if you're losing fuel pressure immediately, there's either a leak somewhere in the lines or the unit in the tank itself. I have seen on some vehicles the rubber hose connected to the pump inside the tank deteriorate over time causing this. But it usually comes with a really hard start condition too. The MAF wiring was a known issue on these trucks. Right at the connector and wiggling it did temporarily resolve it for a lot of people. So you might want to look there.

@SlartibartfastWhen you do this let me know. I'd be glad to buy all of the auto climate control parts off of you.

It doesn't need to be indexed, and the crank position sensor on the VG33E doesn't actually have anything to do with how the engine runs (yeah, I know lol). It is just there for diagnostics. Since it is a distributor-based system, it doesn't utilize it for engine timing.

I had this happen on mine and lived with it for years, turns out it was the alternator. You could try getting one of those ground loop isolators and see if that helps? Doesn't make sense to replace a working alternator. Also - another Ontario first gen? Where at? These are a rare sight these days and I don't even drive mine in the winter... Frame will rot out too fast lol.

You can get them on rock auto too, the trackmotive ones. Apparently they are quite good. I've ordered a set for mine as well!

The easiest solution for the transfer case shifter is to bend it forward slightly. The other option is to remove it, cut it and extend it by the same length of body lift installed. Last option, cutting the floor, not recommended but people have done it.

I have done at least 20 timing belts on these engines, using the 90 degree twist trick each time, and have never had a problem. As for the intake being hard to remove, I assume you're coming from carbed domestics lol. It's not that bad, certainly easier than the one I just did on my Volkswagen golf. The good thing is these engines run forever if you don't let the timing belt break. My last one I ran till just over 550k km (300k miles) and only retired it due to rust up here in the north. As for the plugs, don't spend $ on the iridium ones, just use the V power copper or G power platinum, they're more than good enough and last a long time.

This is the reason why I switched back to the light theme, actually I think it's better now than it was before... Before you couldn't see them at all.

I tried it. It worked but there was always some bull@!*% to fiddle with. Not as reliable as a factory efan car for sure. The mechanical fan moves more air than a electric will anyways. I went back to the mechanical one after a few months.

Not sure if sfd kits are made anymore but this guy is a member here and makes a lot of parts https://sfcreation.com/

Yup. Mine worked when I bought it but I had to redo it after something hit the condenser. I bought a vacuum pump and set of gauges. It gets down to the low 40s or high 30s. Coldest air of any car I own lol.