adamzan

I know for me at least, it was just lack of knowledge back then, didn't know you could just put different temp thermostats in.

I remember in college with my old 95, when it got even colder in the winters, it was either see out the window, or have warm feet lol, couldn't have both.

I would make sure the transmission is serviced (fluid/filter) and an external cooler is added before doing any towing of that size.

Drop a bit of oil in that cylinder and re test. If it is a gasket or some other failure it'll be the same, but if it is bad rings it should pump the numbers up. You can also do a leak down test to see where the compression is going. That will definitely tell you what is happening.

You probably know this by now, but the VG33 pulley/balancer is put together with some rubber isolator in between. They were known to go bad back in the day, my dad had his replaced 2x under warranty by nissan on his 2000 pathfinder. It would slip, make noises, and cause the timing readings to be incorrect.

On the WD21 I used one of those laser thermometers at the upper coolant neck. On the Xterra I can see it in the bluedriver scan tool in live data. Regardless, the heater barely holds up even in -15C around here.

Mine never runs hotter than 170 or 180 unless it's mid July in stop/go traffic with the air con running. In the winter it barely holds 170F on my VG33ER Xterra which is the same engine. Where you both live 180F is probably a good compromise. The 192F on rockauto was never available until recently, and I've been driving a wd21 since the early 2000s. Back then it was 170/180 only... Where did you find this info? The VG33 in the r50 was a 170 too, but the Xterra they spec a 180 unless supercharged (which calls for a 170). Not that 10F is going to do that much for pinging.

Seals are a standard sizing usually so even if the auto parts store can't get them if you can read the numbers off of them, a bearing specialty shop should be able to find something.

That seems insane.

Speaking from experience you are way better off removing the RMS retainer and re&re the seal on a workbench... Trust me, I did it on the truck and it was a bear getting in, and guess what, it leaks again! I still have to pull my transmission off and do it again... When I swapped motors on my Xterra I was able to polish up the crank a bit with the retainer off, and it was MUCH easier to install it that way. You can use like an old margarine tub or something and cut the side of it out, then put that inside the seal to help it slide over the crankshaft. Use lots of lube when installing it so it doesn't start up dry. Easiest way to post pics is use imgur and then post the link here.

Damn.. looks like it was meant to be that way.

The engine light is on? What are the codes it is reporting?

I think you can change the rear pan gasket without removing the pan. It attaches to the bottom of the thing the RMS sits in.

It's a good time to replace the sump gasket that mates to the RMS housing as well. That's a common leak point. Once assembled I just filled the area with RTV lol. No leaks on that rig. I know what you mean on those front bolts. Are you talking about the ones that go the opposite direction of the rest of the bell housing bolts? If so, those are a huge bitch lol.

No problem. One more thing, if it runs better when cold but once it gets some temp into it, runs poorly, check the o2 sensor, you can just unplug it from that tree of plugs on the passenger fender. I have had more than a few of them cause odd running issues over the years.

I've never seen any foil on any of my wd21s but only had 94 and 95 models. There is a black rubberized material that just falls apart on top of the padding, though. Yes pulling the trans is a PITA... I've got to do it on mine soon as the RMS is leaking (must have installed it wrong) and the transmission is doing the classic whine in all gears but 4th. I don't see how pulling the front diff would help getting it out as you can't get the transfer case part past the torsion bars crossmember. When I last did this on an auto truck I had to pull the Y pipe, a manual you might get away without doing it.

Not that it will make a difference in your issue, but BRK5EGP is not the OE plug, BRK6EY is. The ones you have are platinum and 1 heat range hotter than stock. Probably fine but watch out for pre detonation under load. The hose that came off, was it at the back? There is a short vacuum line on the back of the intake that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. That is commonly knocked off when doing plugs/wires. Only the 2 wire sensor affects how it runs, the single wire sensor is just for the gauge. It still sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere though. Try spraying the intake down with brake cleaner or something flammable while it idles, if there is a leak you will hear it change speed.

You can likely machine them and still be above the minimum thickness, especially with that mileage.

I have an extra cluster somewhere, if I find it tonight I'll take it out and post a pic.

Nice, damn those are some old pads! The OEM rotors on these, especially the front are pretty bombproof. I have had mine machined twice. I would try and save them if you can. So much better quality than what is sold these days.

On the rears there is only 1 bolt and the caliper hinges on the large pin. That is always where mine have stuck. Clean and inspect that carefully. On my current wd21, the pin was slightly bent causing the caliper not to slide smoothly (or at all really when it was all together). No doubt from a careless mechanic hammering on it to remove the caliper. Also your images don't work. You'll need to set them as public or use something like imgur.

You say it dies if you give it gas to drive, is it an auto or manual? Does it die even when giving throttle in neutral? The ECM in this isn't that sensitive so it has to be pretty "wrong" for it to pick something up. Sadly that means drivability issues can be tough to pinpoint. But I would start with all the hoses and doing a clean up. Cap and rotor look good too?

Not sure about the auto climate as mine doesn't have it, but the clock is just a standard bulb, I forget the number but you should be able to find it at any auto parts store. I know I did when mine went. It's just a small wedge bulb that sits in a similar base to the bulbs that light up the gauges. Should be no problem to find a suitable LED from https://www.superbrightleds.com I

Great explanation.

You can buy an extra front one and cut it in half to make your own for the rear doors. It is 99% close enough for most people. Maybe test with one of the old front ones first.