adamzan

Nice, damn those are some old pads! The OEM rotors on these, especially the front are pretty bombproof. I have had mine machined twice. I would try and save them if you can. So much better quality than what is sold these days.

On the rears there is only 1 bolt and the caliper hinges on the large pin. That is always where mine have stuck. Clean and inspect that carefully. On my current wd21, the pin was slightly bent causing the caliper not to slide smoothly (or at all really when it was all together). No doubt from a careless mechanic hammering on it to remove the caliper. Also your images don't work. You'll need to set them as public or use something like imgur.

You say it dies if you give it gas to drive, is it an auto or manual? Does it die even when giving throttle in neutral? The ECM in this isn't that sensitive so it has to be pretty "wrong" for it to pick something up. Sadly that means drivability issues can be tough to pinpoint. But I would start with all the hoses and doing a clean up. Cap and rotor look good too?

Not sure about the auto climate as mine doesn't have it, but the clock is just a standard bulb, I forget the number but you should be able to find it at any auto parts store. I know I did when mine went. It's just a small wedge bulb that sits in a similar base to the bulbs that light up the gauges. Should be no problem to find a suitable LED from https://www.superbrightleds.com I

Great explanation.

You can buy an extra front one and cut it in half to make your own for the rear doors. It is 99% close enough for most people. Maybe test with one of the old front ones first.

That's an interesting thought. I'm not sure I'd use them on the front if that was your idea, would they clear the control arms during a suspension cycle? Pro comp is good stuff, they should out last the truck.

It should. The wd21 (87-95) have a defect where the fill plug is too low so it may have damage from being run low on fluid. The gear ratios to differ slightly but you may not notice or care.

Do you mean the one the window rides in like a track or the "scraper" at the bottom of the window frame that always rusts on these? You should be able to find some on eBay but look under hard body or d21 as they are more common still. For the front doors at least.

Honestly, the bilstein shocks ride pretty awesome. The yellow and blue ones are the perfect balance of price/value. Stay away from monroe/rancho they are way too soft for the front end on these.

The ABS in these while pretty "dumb" just like the ECU, can sense these things. I had an issue where my brakes needed to be bled several times before the ABS light would stay off.. Strange indeed.

I know it's probably not worth shipping them, but I have a brand new set of moog springs for one of these trucks, never installed. I'd let them go for $50 plus shipping.

Yep, and I remember when you bought that truck from Tony, it was mint! I don't dare drive mine in the salt here in Ontario. Even sitting in storage has caused some corrosion it wouldn't normally have. That stuff is liquid salt brine or calcium chloride. It is even worse than standard rock salt as it will creep into the crevices and really fskc things up. I wish they would stop using it as it is horrible for the water table like salt.

As Slart said, the KS code can be ignored for now, it's not your issue (though if you end up pulling the intake to do the injectors you could change it). Check your injectors they should all be around 14ohms if the are healthy. If the MAF is setting a code it could be bad or it could be the wiring. But like previously mentioned it was a notorious issue on these, but speaking from experience when the wiring has issues, it will usually stall unless you hold the throttle down slightly.

The hotter they run (within reason) the more efficient they are.

The sensor on the rear end is nearly impossible to find, mine got messed up on the trail and now I live with the ABS light on all the time. I found the sensor new once and it was like 700 bucks... No thanks. Still hoping to find a used one.

Check ebay I was able to buy some new front window mouldings from nissan in thailand. I bought 3, and cut 1 in half for the rear door windows.

All the vg30e pathfinder injectors are the same, some have blue or black dots, you can interchange them but the whole set should match. I have mixed them and didn't notice a difference but it's not best practice. No difference for manual/auto. If you bring a meter and they're around 14ohms they'd be worth grabbing as spares. As for the stuff under the plenum like the idle air valve, supposedly they're different from auto to manual, but I actually put a used one from my 1994 parts truck (auto) onto my 1995 SE (manual transmission). Runs perfectly fine. Since your truck is a 1992 it will have the square dash, so 94-95 round dash wiper/headlight stalks may not work. Washer pumps are readily available, I wouldn't bother grabbing that stuff, same with blower motors. I would grab any trim that is in good shape like door arm rests, dash vents/surround, etc. That stuff is getting very hard to find used and not destroyed. Also the window sash mouldings are hard to get now as well, the "scraper" seal at the bottom of the window is what I mean.

If it's made it this far... Either it was well cared for or replaced. it'll be fine

Glad you found a fix! I had a weird rattle like that and it was only when cold. Turns out m torque converter bolts had backed off, scary!

Sounds like your temps are close to what I experience. I don't drive my WD21 in the winter anymore because the salt killed my last one, but I drive a first gen Xterra with the same transmission. Sometimes I have to let it idle for 5-10 minutes just so the clutch fluid warms up from ambient engine heat, and the pedal isn't a marshmallow!

I do have a known good 1994 SE Automatic ECU, lmao.

Yeah I could see that being a pain. Fortunately I haven't had to do that lol.

The 170F (76.5C) is what they all came with originally. I personally found that one a little too cold here in Ontario Canada during the winter time. Basically, it could barely keep the window de-iced and my feet warm when the temps dipped below -15C, especially on the extreme wind chill days. In doing some testing, I found the coolant temp barely stayed at 170F once it opened when driving in stop and go traffic, because these older style ones just tend to stay open unless it goes way cold, a temp solution was covering the rad with cardboard to block some airflow. You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water. I swapped over to a 180F (82c) when doing my water pump and it made a decent difference, imo this is what they should have put in at the factory, the later VG33E (not supercharged) in the Xterra came with that one... The 192F (89C) was never a factory option and has only been available for the last few years. I don't know anyone that has tried it, though. It's still well within the normal operating temp so I don't see it being a big issue. These trucks aren't exactly known for overheating in my experience, so it should not be a problem provided your cooling system has been well maintained and the rad isn't full of scale. In 20+ years of owning a few of these trucks, the only time I had issues running warm were with a radiator that was full of mud. My 2.0 VW motor has a 190C stat originally, that thing has the best heat out of all of our cars!

The noise could also be slight play in the bearings allowing the rotor to move just enough that it is contacting the backing plate. I have had that happen before. @gamellott They didn't have zerks but had a bolt that you removed to install a zerk. I agree it is hard to find good chassis parts these days. I usually just buy the cheap stuff because the lifetime warranty stuff seems to be 3x the price for 0x the quality. The best TRE, ball joints etc for these were/are the "three five" brand, you could get them at napa at some point, and rock auto under beck/arnley.