adamzan

Speaking from experience you are way better off removing the RMS retainer and re&re the seal on a workbench... Trust me, I did it on the truck and it was a bear getting in, and guess what, it leaks again! I still have to pull my transmission off and do it again... When I swapped motors on my Xterra I was able to polish up the crank a bit with the retainer off, and it was MUCH easier to install it that way. You can use like an old margarine tub or something and cut the side of it out, then put that inside the seal to help it slide over the crankshaft. Use lots of lube when installing it so it doesn't start up dry. Easiest way to post pics is use imgur and then post the link here.

Damn.. looks like it was meant to be that way.

The engine light is on? What are the codes it is reporting?

Hey, if you need help let me know. I am totally willing to assist. Hell you can move it to my server which is already hosting a couple other forums... I've got 4 TB of space and dual xeon cpus on my rackmount dell server . I keep things behind a virtualized pfSense firewall and it seems to keep the noise down. Lets chat. We all get busy and life happens. I know we work in adjacent industries, its bit a total @!*% show since 2020.

I think you can change the rear pan gasket without removing the pan. It attaches to the bottom of the thing the RMS sits in.

It's a good time to replace the sump gasket that mates to the RMS housing as well. That's a common leak point. Once assembled I just filled the area with RTV lol. No leaks on that rig. I know what you mean on those front bolts. Are you talking about the ones that go the opposite direction of the rest of the bell housing bolts? If so, those are a huge bitch lol.

No problem. One more thing, if it runs better when cold but once it gets some temp into it, runs poorly, check the o2 sensor, you can just unplug it from that tree of plugs on the passenger fender. I have had more than a few of them cause odd running issues over the years.

I've never seen any foil on any of my wd21s but only had 94 and 95 models. There is a black rubberized material that just falls apart on top of the padding, though. Yes pulling the trans is a PITA... I've got to do it on mine soon as the RMS is leaking (must have installed it wrong) and the transmission is doing the classic whine in all gears but 4th. I don't see how pulling the front diff would help getting it out as you can't get the transfer case part past the torsion bars crossmember. When I last did this on an auto truck I had to pull the Y pipe, a manual you might get away without doing it.

Not that it will make a difference in your issue, but BRK5EGP is not the OE plug, BRK6EY is. The ones you have are platinum and 1 heat range hotter than stock. Probably fine but watch out for pre detonation under load. The hose that came off, was it at the back? There is a short vacuum line on the back of the intake that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. That is commonly knocked off when doing plugs/wires. Only the 2 wire sensor affects how it runs, the single wire sensor is just for the gauge. It still sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere though. Try spraying the intake down with brake cleaner or something flammable while it idles, if there is a leak you will hear it change speed.

You can likely machine them and still be above the minimum thickness, especially with that mileage.

I have an extra cluster somewhere, if I find it tonight I'll take it out and post a pic.

Nice, damn those are some old pads! The OEM rotors on these, especially the front are pretty bombproof. I have had mine machined twice. I would try and save them if you can. So much better quality than what is sold these days.

On the rears there is only 1 bolt and the caliper hinges on the large pin. That is always where mine have stuck. Clean and inspect that carefully. On my current wd21, the pin was slightly bent causing the caliper not to slide smoothly (or at all really when it was all together). No doubt from a careless mechanic hammering on it to remove the caliper. Also your images don't work. You'll need to set them as public or use something like imgur.

Hey @RedPath88 I'm more than happy to assist if you need for the spam, I am seeing a lot of it now. Let me know!

You say it dies if you give it gas to drive, is it an auto or manual? Does it die even when giving throttle in neutral? The ECM in this isn't that sensitive so it has to be pretty "wrong" for it to pick something up. Sadly that means drivability issues can be tough to pinpoint. But I would start with all the hoses and doing a clean up. Cap and rotor look good too?

Not sure about the auto climate as mine doesn't have it, but the clock is just a standard bulb, I forget the number but you should be able to find it at any auto parts store. I know I did when mine went. It's just a small wedge bulb that sits in a similar base to the bulbs that light up the gauges. Should be no problem to find a suitable LED from https://www.superbrightleds.com I

Great explanation.

You can buy an extra front one and cut it in half to make your own for the rear doors. It is 99% close enough for most people. Maybe test with one of the old front ones first.

That's an interesting thought. I'm not sure I'd use them on the front if that was your idea, would they clear the control arms during a suspension cycle? Pro comp is good stuff, they should out last the truck.

It should. The wd21 (87-95) have a defect where the fill plug is too low so it may have damage from being run low on fluid. The gear ratios to differ slightly but you may not notice or care.

Do you mean the one the window rides in like a track or the "scraper" at the bottom of the window frame that always rusts on these? You should be able to find some on eBay but look under hard body or d21 as they are more common still. For the front doors at least.

Honestly, the bilstein shocks ride pretty awesome. The yellow and blue ones are the perfect balance of price/value. Stay away from monroe/rancho they are way too soft for the front end on these.

The ABS in these while pretty "dumb" just like the ECU, can sense these things. I had an issue where my brakes needed to be bled several times before the ABS light would stay off.. Strange indeed.

I know it's probably not worth shipping them, but I have a brand new set of moog springs for one of these trucks, never installed. I'd let them go for $50 plus shipping.

Yep, and I remember when you bought that truck from Tony, it was mint! I don't dare drive mine in the salt here in Ontario. Even sitting in storage has caused some corrosion it wouldn't normally have. That stuff is liquid salt brine or calcium chloride. It is even worse than standard rock salt as it will creep into the crevices and really fskc things up. I wish they would stop using it as it is horrible for the water table like salt.