adamzan

If you're just swapping the pads, just undo the one bolt and swing the caliper up. No need to do any more. I stocked up on a couple sets of rotors as they are getting harder to get up here.

It's a 2015, so whatever motor that is, but the dipstick looks identical.

My parents have a maxima with the 3.5 and it does the same thing. Only reliable way to check how much is in the sump is to check it cold. I know people hate the old 3.0/3.3 dipsticks but they somehow made it worse on the VQ engines lol.

Same here in Ontario. I personally know 2 people that own one in the Toronto area but here in Ottawa I've not seen one on the road regularly in years. But did see a really clean 2 door on the Quebec side last summer. I got one that was originally from the west coast so rust is minimal, but it was hit head on while parked in my messing driveway, so currently rebuilding that... But park it for the winter.

It was common on the 92 and older models to have the voltage reg go on the cluster causing the fuel/temp gauges to go crazy or not work. I'd check that first as it is fairly trivial to repair. There are some posts on it in this forum. The sending unit I never had good luck with used ones so I bit the bullet and bought a new one from Nissan. Absolutely insane that no one makes an aftermarket for these.

Nice work! My guess would have been the leads on the top of the sending unit getting corroded, but not sure how bad the rust on cars is where you are. It was a fairly common problem but once replaced never happened again.

I could never find it either, but one of those body shop supply stores that can scan the paint and mix up a can should be able to help you out?

In theory all you'd need to do for the 300zx one is swap the tail housing and output shaft, but I don't know what other internal things they changed. Also the gear ratios may be different and not as applicable to a truck application.

I still have to get mine repaired after a prolonged submersion killed it last summer. But it was rock solid for years before that.

Have you verified the timing belt is set correctly? If you need to be sure, it should be 40 teeth between the camshaft marks and 43 between drivers cam and the crank. This is with it set at TDC for #1 cylinder.

This. Don't bother with the aftermarket ones unless you are ready to replace them every year. I think I have changed the one in my brother's 3.3L frontier 4 or 5 times now.

Good luck! I have mine on classic car insurance here, dropped it to about $250 CAD a year. Crazy cheap. I didn't register it with the province as historic as they put stupid restrictions on when and where you can drive it.

One thing to mention is these trucks can't tell if an individual injector is bad, so you'll have to test them all if you haven't already. They should all be around 12-14ohms. The engine temp sensor can definitely cause issues, it's the 2 wire one at the upper rad hose neck. They are cheap enough I'd probably toss a new one at it if the wiring checks out ok. With all those codes it sounds like there could be chewed wires? I would check the harness for any spots that look suspect. You can test the temp sensor by putting it in water at a certain temp and measuring the resistance I believe. The details are in the service manual. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

The salt up here means all but a handful are gone. I genuinely get excited when seeing another one on the road. Can go almost a year or more without seeing another wd21 here in Ontario. I have a couple friends that still have them. But we don't drive them in the winter. My current one originally came from Vancouver BC. Last one I saw in the junkyard in my town had to be almost 5 years ago at least.

This is very interesting. I always had this issue on all my trucks, and even if you cut out the rot and welded new in, it would come back over a few years. Will be taking a look at mine when I replace the fuel tank in the coming weeks.

Any bolt on the intake will be grounded, there is one near the front to the left of the distributor that has some ground wires already, you could unbolt it and add an extra eyelet terminal there. Or just go straight to the negative terminal of the battery. Inside the truck any of the metal brackets should be grounded under the dash. I believe I used the cigarette lighter circuit when I did this on mine years ago. That will be ignition switched 12v as well. As for the light, you should be able to tap into the wire that dims the radio lights. If you look in the service manual it will have the correct diagram.

The original wire clamps worked the best, you never had to go back and tighten them up like the worm drive ones after the car sat for a while or during the change of the seasons, of course mine were all rusted so I replaced them with worm clamps as that was all that was available at the time locally. Newer cars use the spring ones, if you have the right pliers for it they're fine and you can usually lock them open. Personally I'm partial to these, can make any adjustments on the fly.

I should have added, don't pull it out but strap it up to the crossmember or something.

Is there any oil in it? Sounds like it ran dry or some other catastrophic failure. I'd do what @level9 said and check if it rotates at the crank but it doesn't sound good. Fortunately there are a lot of VG33E sitting in the junkyards that you could swap in.

Disconnect the driveshaft to the axle of the wheels that are touching the ground to be sure. Should only take a few minutes. A/C, probably the evaporator.

Being in Canada it won't be here till late next week so whoever is first, post up lol.

I love how their solution is to hack up the car's wiring, although I guess you can just use the old compressor's pigtail. All to save them 10 cents on the production line lol. I didn't know they changed from rotary vane to piston style. Maybe we'll get better idle speed A/C performance then. I just ordered a four seasons one for mine and a valeo for my Xterra (expensive summer!) Here's a good write up on the differences: https://www.toyota-industries.com/products/relation/compressor_kind_1/index.html

Looks good. Any more updates? I'm getting ready to possibly do this on my xterra but will mean I lose it for this wheeling season.

Lol. I've had a few parts trucks! Guess I kept some things. I'll go out to the X now.

I'm seriously considering rebuilding mine. I found a shaft seal kit, and I'm sure the bearings can be sourced by my local bearing house. https://donbrownbusparts.com/products/compressor-shaft-seal-kit-dkv14c-d-mt2060 Found a spare compressor in a box of old parts at my grandmother's house. Too wiped to go back out now, I'll snap a pic of the Xterra compressor plug tomorrow.