adamzan

ACDelco kit on rock auto is the one you want, comes with everything.

I think if you don't put the resistor in it will remain on all the time when the truck is off because of how little power LEDs use. The "ghost power" that remains when the system is off is enough to dimly light them sometimes. @Slartibartfastcan correct me on this.

Glad to see you're still around, Garrett!

You absolutely need to perform final torque of the hardware with the truck on the ground. Just finger tighten them in the air. Torque spec really matters here, don't just buzz them on with an impact.

Sounds like the belts are worn or stretched. You can try tightening them up but if it has been happening for a while they're probably glazed. If you don't know when they were last changed, they are pretty cheap to replace.

The bigger hardware stores like fastenal and brafasco tend to carry that kind of stuff. Where did you find it? Would be good to link here!

Damn I've never seen that happen before. Usually the thing that wears out is the part that pushes on the reverse light switch, only on manuals.

The primary ones (which is what the ECU monitors and what matters) are hard to reach on these rigs from underneath, but the secondary ones could be easily cut out. I haven't heard of it happening much on this board but that's not to say it hasn't happened. Maybe one of the cages from the other vehicles could fit on the r50? It's a problem where I live too (Canada) but it seems mostly isolated to toyota and honda.

Good to hear. Not that you need it but you'll have better heat with the warmer stat too. Makes a big difference where I live!

At least these rigs the front diff has probably been so sparingly used since they don't turn with the hubs unlocked.

That's like the people that never do the brake fluid or transmission fluid changes and then wonder why they are always replacing stuck or leaking calipers and have to get the trans rebuilt every 75k. I have also notice these are the same people who call dealerships "stealerships".

If you don’t off-road or tow anything you can probably go longer on the differentials. Especially with the higher quality of todays lubricants. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should be able to make it work if they are both the same motor. For 2wd and 4wd you will have to swap the tail housing of your transmission onto the donor so the transfer case will bolt up

What did that freshly cut looking white wire go to before? Also goes into the mess of tape with the red wire. Also check the meter fuse inside the cab and see if it is blown. Have you spoken to the mechanic after this? These trucks aren't that complicated electrically, and don't use canbus or anything. I can't believe they just gave you the vehicle back like this... Insane. Maybe the best bet is to hit a wrecking yard and grab some factory cables and get rid of this mess. Or a part out on here.

Can you share a pic of the connections at the battery? I want to see what the mechanic did. Sounds like they caused more harm than good.

Yeah, the link doesn't bend the joint wears out (this is coupled with a worn idler arm usually, keep that in good shape and the CL will last way longer) and starts the whole system twisting.

Yea that sounds like a failed transmission cooler line, should be fairly easy to fix. Maybe on turns the fluid is so low that it introduces air into it somewhere. They are like a differential with a vent, so not a complete airtight seal. Any dexron 3 compatible fluid will work, but the Nissan Matic D is the best fluid for these transmissions.

Moog parts used to be great 15 years ago but the quality has taken a serious nosedive. Ever since they had that massive factory/warehouse fire.

Is the fluid red or brown, does it have a rancid smell to it?

Replaced alternator belt on the 2004 Xterra today. It flew off in the parking lot at work, but 2 little cords held on and I got home on that. Not fun in this cold, my hands were sticking to the pulleys and tools!

Would it be possible to re pin the ecu connector or something like that? A bit more work but idk.

I know that feeling. I have to keep a battery maintainer on it now otherwise it will just die.

Mine sits a lot assuming yours does as well? I had similar symptoms and just attribute it to the flywheel having rust on it. It will shudder on take off also.

I know I had my old 1994 way over advanced at 20 or 25 because the distributor was messed up. I didn't know any better at the time but damn did it ever have a lot more power lol.

I would also switch the automatic hubs to manual ones if you're going to lift it and wheel it. The automatic ones are good for daily drivers but on the trail they can unlock when backing up/rocking the truck and you'll lose drive to the front wheels at the worst possible time, lol.