adamzan

I know on mine, on cold starts it stumbles and runs a bit weird but only when you touch the throttle, and it is 100% dependant on how cold it is. If it is -20 it will stumble and hesitate without doing anything, on a hot summer's day you might not even notice it. If you turn on the air con - slight misfire goes away. I replaced the valve under the plenum and it's better, but it still isn't right. Going to try and find an iacv-air regulator that is known good.

I gotta say, when people complain about the #6 plug I can immediately think of some engines that are way worse. Old GM V8s that you had to remove the A/C compressor/brackets (I wanna say pontiac or caddy from the 70s), any transverse mounted gm v6 in the 90s is hell to get to the back 3 plugs. Or how about the maxima with the VQ35, you have to remove the intake plenum to get 3 of the plugs out. Thankfully if you use modern platinum plugs they last 100k easily.

Any updates?

For a quick fix some people just snip the bent part of the needle off, it should at least stop it from binding while you find a replacement. There was someone on the FB page selling a cluster I believe.

I have used Redline MT90, MTL, Valvoline Syncromesh, some random store brand 75w90 and a couple others. Everyone on this board loved MT90, they must all live in the desert because here in Canada, it was the worst cold weather shifting I've ever had, constant grinding into 2nd for the first few km, the ancient probably factory fill was better, but warmed up it was fine. The redline MTL is what I have now, works much better. I never did try MT85 and suspect it would be a bit better and according to the BITOG thread "MT-85 exists mostly for Nissan vehicles which spec 75W-85" lol.

I've replaced some of the injectors on mine with new bosch ones but since they're hard to get now, I just pulled used ones off my parts truck that checked out OK. Also when you're doing the timing make sure you are following the procedure with disconnecting the plug and the rev up procedure they have in the FSM. Like others have said if you or someone has separated the balancer from the pulley (the six small bolts) it's possible and likely it wasn't put back on right. Set the engine at TDC for #1 cylinder and see if it the timing mark on the cover points at the 1st mark on the pulley. It'll be pretty obvious if it isn't right.

I would check the ignition switch. They are 30+ years old now and I've seen a few of them fail.

This is great! I seriously envy your ambition to tackle this project.

On mine the distributor was kind of effed up in the sense that you could turn the rotor with some force and further adjust the timing. It happened after a t-belt change and It must have been whacked. But it didn't stall. But moving it a tooth will move it way past the normal range.

You could probably nab one from a junkyard truck or maybe a part out on here?

They were made for them exclusively. I never saw them anywhere else. They are great vehicles but aftermarket support always sucked.

Can you post a pic of what you mean? If it's a VG30 they don't have a vaccum cannister. If you mean the big black cylinder it is the Evap charcoal cannister.

Something like this would work to fix the spade connector (a female one obviously lol). The temp gauge on these usually sits at 1/4-1/3 during normal temp anyway. The OE thermostat is only 170F (there is an alternate 180F).

3+3=33s with the right offset just means you don't have to do any trimming. If you don't care about trimming your fenders a bit and it's just a wheeler, then you can put 33s on just a 3" lift. I had 35"s on mine with the 3+3 for a while. Don't crank the tbars too high it just rides like crap and wears tires like it burns gas.

Wow, this is looking great! I think I've only ever seen 1 other SAS r50, and the amount of work to overcome what would be pretty simple if it were body on frame, is pretty impressive. IDK if you ever found an upgraded radiator, but they do make all aluminum ones that bolt in now for the WD21 and WD22. This one "claims" it fits up to 04... I bought one for my 1995 as an upgrade after it was hit in front. https://www.ebay.com/itm/355939610930

You want to use all the VG30E fuel injection stuff. Mr.510 used to make an adapter for the crank so you could run your VG30 accessories on the VG33 but that will likely not work if you want to use the blower off of the ER. Unfortunately while many people have done it, this won't be a quick weekend project to drive back after the holidays, unless you're super mechanically inclined, then I might be mistaken. If you're having trouble finding an engine have you checked car-part.com? The VG30E was in the early 90s maxima, quest/villager van, and D21 pickup as well.

I suppose if they installed a crappy aftermarket or reman rack it could be bad, but you'd think any competent mechanic could tell the difference unless they're just trying to drum up business. Interesting that they installed new inner tie rods in 2020, the ones that came with the new rack were already bad? New steering racks usually come with new inner tie rods as the boots are preinstalled. Sounds like someone could have been taking advantage of the old owner. If you don't see any leaks right now, it could be it was never cleaned up from previous leaks.

Being a 96, it'll be a VG33E, they don't have the oil cooler leak issue the 3.5L have. IIRC the sender for the oil light is bolted in right around that area, it isn't uncommon for those things to fail and leak on older vehicles of all makes. As for the rack, if the boots are torn and it was letting road silt and grime in there, that can make the seals fail in short order. Is it leaking PS fluid as well or is it just loose? The mount bushings were a huge problem especially on the side where the oil filter is... You see where I'm going with this lol. I would call around to a few other garages, maybe ask some friends if they have a trustworthy guy.

You absolutely can, @Slartibartfast. I've done it for all 3 pulleys on my Xterra.

If it's just a stock truck with OE sized tires, there's no real benefit from the steering damper. There's the oe style with the stud and there is the aftermarket ones that the heavier duty stabilizers come with, those do make a difference on a lifted wd21.

Good lord, I'm seeing the post from what I assume is the same guy on the forums. So much misinformation on there! I replied there too @Path1204

Did you check this out? https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F1993%2FCapacities.pdf Here is a screencap from the 1994 manual, looks the same. The 4wd use a different casing which I would assume makes it take more. You can also measure (roughly) what you drain out of it so you have an idea of how much was in it. If it's lasted this long and isn't doing the whine of death (like my 4wd is lol)...

You would need to change out the Pitman arm to the different taper size IIRC. Rockauto seems to have all of the front end parts at a reasonable price for a 1991. The ball joints are all the same, though as well as the sway bar links. I would get it in the air and check what parts actually have play in them, and grease any zerks you find (there are bolts that can be removed on the factory joints to install zerks). Replacing old tie rods, etc that aren't worn (tbh I would hold onto those original parts as long as you can because the new stuff is crap) won't improve the ride at all. Make sure the steering stops are greased up, they are a big source for front end noise. Check the tension rod (also called strut rod) bushings, they can cause some funny handling and the hole in the frame is usually slogged out from them being loose. There are numerous threads on it here. Make sure your tires are not 30 years old, and are the proper load range, as well as balanced properly. If you are going to replace it all, try and stick with name brand parts, there's been a few people here over the years that regretted buying those ebay style kits. You just end up replacing it again and again.

I would get the acdelco or moog ones off of rockauto.

What did you do to keep your cruise control?