adamzan

I should have added, don't pull it out but strap it up to the crossmember or something.

Is there any oil in it? Sounds like it ran dry or some other catastrophic failure. I'd do what @level9 said and check if it rotates at the crank but it doesn't sound good. Fortunately there are a lot of VG33E sitting in the junkyards that you could swap in.

Disconnect the driveshaft to the axle of the wheels that are touching the ground to be sure. Should only take a few minutes. A/C, probably the evaporator.

Being in Canada it won't be here till late next week so whoever is first, post up lol.

I love how their solution is to hack up the car's wiring, although I guess you can just use the old compressor's pigtail. All to save them 10 cents on the production line lol. I didn't know they changed from rotary vane to piston style. Maybe we'll get better idle speed A/C performance then. I just ordered a four seasons one for mine and a valeo for my Xterra (expensive summer!) Here's a good write up on the differences: https://www.toyota-industries.com/products/relation/compressor_kind_1/index.html

Looks good. Any more updates? I'm getting ready to possibly do this on my xterra but will mean I lose it for this wheeling season.

Lol. I've had a few parts trucks! Guess I kept some things. I'll go out to the X now.

I'm seriously considering rebuilding mine. I found a shaft seal kit, and I'm sure the bearings can be sourced by my local bearing house. https://donbrownbusparts.com/products/compressor-shaft-seal-kit-dkv14c-d-mt2060 Found a spare compressor in a box of old parts at my grandmother's house. Too wiped to go back out now, I'll snap a pic of the Xterra compressor plug tomorrow.

The connector on my Xterra (first gen) is one wire. I wonder if that connector is the same as these new aftermarket compressors? I can take a pic later to verify. The compressor style is the same as the wd21.

Any auto 4x4 transmission from 1988-2004 VG powered truck/suv will work. So that's Xterra, Frontier, Pathfinder, Hardbody pickup. If you are getting one from a newer Xterra/Frontier with the Supercharged engine you will need the flywheel to go with it as the bolt pattern is different on the torque converter. Reuse the 1992 dipstick as well. Other than that they are pretty much a bolt in swap. But you might want to check if it isn't running properly first, check the timing, etc to make sure you don't waste your time.

Thanks for triggering my PTSD over this even though it was nearly a decade ago.

Good luck. Is this still from rock auto? The original one on mine is pissing from the front shaft seal (just oil for now, still holding charge). But replacing the condenser and entire front of the truck, so may as well swap a new compressor on there. I hate these "consolidated parts" they are always a compromise. In looking them up even for my Xterra, it seems like they're just not putting the sensor in there. I guess they have enough confidence in their parts that they won't overheat and fail, LOL. The GPD one on RA is for a diesel so that makes sense that it would be incorrect.

Some of the aftermarket u joint kits come with snap rings of different sizes/thickness. Otherwise I have filed them down to fit, not saying it's the right thing but it worked..

How's the progress?

HA! I drove it like that for 2 days while I waited for the new part to come in... Swapped it in the parking lot at work because... Why not?

What gears do you have, and not have? IIRC on mine the neutral safety switch (range sensor as nissan calls it) was broken and the tcm didn't know what position the shifter was in. It caused me to have 1-3 and 4 only when a certain amount of throttle was applied. Torque converter lock up didn't work at all. I may be misremembering the gears because this was over a decade ago now.

I had to redo it on mine because I over tightened and ruined the gasket. It still leaked so an old friend said to just put a light coat of RTV on the gasket, I know you're not supposed to but it doesn't friggin leak anymore.

Stick your finger on the edge of the valve cover just above the exhaust manifolds. If you feel oil or oily residue then you have your answer. also they are 30 year old trucks now, so if they aren't leaking I'd be surprised.

What Slart said. And to be honest I would start at the hatch. Check the wiring at the rubber where it flexes, common issue on most hatchbacks.

Be glad it isn't there on the mpfi ones, it is kind of a bear to get to when it is in the car fully assembled.

Funny enough even if you bypass the cruise cancel switch (I did it when testing a bad switch) the brake light switch still cancels the cruise. It's a failsafe.

Glad you got it sorted. Aluminum to steel usually has these results after 30 years haha.

There are also places you can send it out to, to get repaired. There must be one in the Seattle area.

No there isn't, you'll have to tie into the wiring manually. It only needs 12v and the brake signal, though. so not too hard. The rest goes back to the 7 way plug at the hitch.

If you could gently heat up the part of the MC around the stud it should release. Even a plumbing propane torch or MAPP gas would work, if you're careful you won't damage anything. That is what I did when changing my brake MC.