adamzan

Yep, mine has it, guess no one has removed the arm yet.

Lol if you google "weld gas tank" most of the results suggest to fill it with water to avoid any problems... Although for a wd21 the tanks are cheap, just buy a new one. I could see how what you were working on would be harder to find.

Sounds like the hell I went through putting an aftermarket one on my old 94. I got so pissed off that I just shelled out the $200 to Nissan for one that fit.

Where I live that is pretty much mandatory lol... On my old truck I snapped all 6 screws off inside the tank.

You mean the sending unit? Provided it wasn't corroded and your gas gauge worked fine, no issue in reusing it.

There used (or still is) to be a place in California called Nissan only wreckers. I've bought several parts from them and it was great, considering I live in Canada and I haven't seen another wd21 where I live in a long arse time. So it appears to be a pretty good business lol

Worst case scenario a new tank is only $110. Small price for peace of mind if you find it is full of junk. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,fuel+&+air,fuel+tank,6268?

3682 is the Fram number and the right one for this engine. The 3614 is just a shorter filter and not the right one. It may also have a built in bypass while the one for our engine does not (this engine has it's own on the filter mount). Someone probably just slapped the 3614 on there because they didn't have any 3682. Don't believe the BS on the fram filters, the tough guard or the ultra filters are actually very good.

31x10.5x15 was a stock size. If the rear is rubbing (like over bumps) then your coil springs have sagged.

That paint is so clean.

The power terminal from starter to battery is just a 0 gauge wire with no fuse so I wouldn't go sticking anything down there. You can get those strap oil filter wrenches that usually works. I've also driven a screwdriver through it to turn it loose. As long as you spray some brake clean on the starter shortly afterwards it'll be fine. I've never had oil "kill the starter" doing it this way.

I definitely would have done the same... Mangle first read how to take apart later haha. If you can't get it straight enough to work I can probably send you the one I have.

Sadly they are dealer or JY only. 4x4parts.com used to sell a kit but they don't anymore. And it was just Nissan parts boxed together. I would go back to the JY and get the brackets, you'll have to mangle the truck to get them out most likely.

You'll need the master/slave cylinder, clutch hard/soft lines, and clutch/brake pedal assemblies from the donor. Actually, just buy a new master and slave. You will need to modify the wiring so it will start and if you want the cruise control to work. I believe someone posted on here before.

I have a spare compressor I can send this guy if he needs to replace that clutch plate lol... Just have to yank it off the parts truck.

If the pump truly is bad, I would only replace it with an OE pump. Aftermarket ones are hot trash these days.

VG33 distributors seem to fail a lot these days. The aftermarket ones are crap. Mine is still on the original one but I've changed a few for people and my roommates frontier ate 3 aftermarket replacements in a month.

I'm gonna have to try this on my Xterra, every time it rains water pours in (drivers side only). I cleared it once with compressed air but this might work more permanently. They are the same style sunroof.

FFS Nissan has had so many opportunities to do it right and each time they friggin take the easy way out. I know these crossover pieces of @!*% sell more but Nissan used to be a brand people were very loyal to, look at the d21 and the Z crowd, and to a lesser extent, the Xterra crowd. I still remember all the hype when they came out, it was a big deal, and I was only 16 at the time. I will probably not buy another Nissan ever again. The new frontier is OK but no manual option means I won't be looking at it (will likely look at 2nd gen fronty's with a 6 speed). That whole no one wants manuals thing is bull@!*% and really only in North America...

Lol, nice work. Did you replace the shaft seal along with the bearing? The seal has been weeping on my 95 for a few years now. It slings oil all over the hood when it runs. Everyone just tells me to slap a reman compressor on it. I'd rather keep the original one that will probably outlast most remans!

The 90-95 headers will work fine.

Can't speak to the manuals, but if auto you can swap the tail housing from your dead 4x4 auto on to the donor one. The swap is mostly bolt in. Re use the sub harness from the old tranny and you'll need some longer vent hose (rubber lines).

Find a new mechanic for the brakes or do it yourself. They are just like any 4x4 of the era where the rotors are bolted to the bearing hubs. I can do both sides in about 1.5 hours and that's working slow. You'll need to repack the bearings ( well you don't HAVE to but should) so that would take some additional time and a new grease seal for the inner bearing. The rears are dead simple and just like any other car, rotor slides off after removing the caliper. I change the discs every time I do the rear pads because they are cheap. For some reason I seem to go through 2 rear sets for every front set.

TBH changing the u joints on these are not that bad. I did mine trying to chase down a vibration and it only took a couple of hours. Being in California you probably have no rust to contend with either. I did replace them with grease-able units and lube them every other oil change, or when I remember they exist. The front shaft I just keep greasing the slip yoke and it is fine. The front does not spin in 2wd with the hubs unlock so I suspect the wear there is minimal. For what it's worth the u joints I changed had around 220km on them and they looked perfectly fine with no binding whatsoever... Gotta love that 90s Japanese quality. Honestly greasing them once and a while should keep them going for a long time. That's just been my experience.

Take off the distributor cap and check for any fine gold/red/brownish particles. The distributor bearing is very common to fail on these trucks. The knock sensor code will take some power/mileage away but won't cause your problem.