adamzan

It’s funny they excluded it on the r50 but all the Wd21s had the electric rear glass opener. I almost never use the key in the tailgate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sounds exactly like mine did when it dropped an injector I would check them with a multimeter hot and cold. They should be around 14 ohms

Sadly I've never seen anything like that

The aftermarket injectors are hit or miss. I try to find good used OEM or pony up for Bosch or Hitachi parts. Can you post a link to the video here? I was the admin for the FB group but have since left that toxic platform lol.

If I could find adjustable ones for my wd21 I’d buy them in a heartbeat. None of the aftermarket parts come close to the ride they provided. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still don't understand why shops wouldn't touch the truck. I've taken mine to a few places here and as long as you're paying, they don't care. And you're not in the rust belt like I am... Hopefully you can get the wd21 back in good shape eventually. It is nice to have a 2nd car to drive while one is apart though!

We should be able to use something like certbot to automate the lets encrypt renewals.

I'd check the wiring circuit for the light. It goes go through several junctions IIRC and there could be a wiring fault or a bad relay. Also is it the same alternator the 87 had?

I've never had an issue with this? If you do just jack up the truck on one side to tilt it over and allow a bit more out.

Any competent body shop should be able to blend it in. Buff the rest of the rig and it’ll look great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The first video honestly sounds like it has a bad lifter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure about springs but a lot of people get the spacer lift from Steve at https://sfcreation.com/product-category/pathfinder-96-04-qx4-96-03-r50-platform/

Good question, one of mine got dinged by a careless idiot in a parking long, I hammered it back straight but of course it started to rust where that happened.

It's 28oz... Basically if the system was fully empty and you put two whole of the regular sized (not the taller ones) in, you'll be right within spec.

Honestly, this still sounds like alignment, perhaps not enough caster. I know on the wd21s when you lift them it is common to put as much positive caster as you can so it doesn't wander on the highway or on rough roads. I am not sure how much adjustment the r50 has on that, though.

Like Slartibartfast said you need to remove the face of the hub first, then slide it on, and the snap ring goes on the outer groove on the stub shaft, vs the inner groove with auto hubs. Then it will look like this once on and you can put the snap ring back. This is from an Xterra board, but it is the exact same process (I own a wd21 and a wd22). https://www.clubxterra.org/threads/how-to-replacing-stock-auto-locking-hubs-with-manual-locking-hubs.8356/

The AT oil temp light comes on at some ridiculously high temperature IIRC. If it comes on something is really wrong lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, just make sure you put the grease zerks in those tie rod ends, and give them a few pumps of lube so they don’t fill with dirt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1993 would be the last year of the square dash. Could be an option for the diesel ones overseas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My old 95 did that too. It seems the momentary bump in N is enough to kick up the line pressure to have it engage... Never lost the forward gears the entire time I owned it. Just learned to live with it the way it was.

If they are the same as the one on my 2002 Xterra (I assume they're very similar) you won't have to reprogram if you remove it but if you replace it you definitely will. I replaced mine after a bad overcharging alternator killed it. Had to reprogram both fobs. Removing it will disable the alarm, remote locks (maybe power locks all together), dome lights, the ability to roll the windows up and down with the key off before you open the doors. All that "stuff". Unplugging it to inspect it wouldn't be any different to it than disconnecting the battery under the hood.

I find it hard to believe they couldn't find a new grille or hood or headlights. The brush guard, sure. TBH I would just straighten it out or get rid of it entirely.

If you are removing the alarm, I will buy all the parts from you (horn, remotes, module and harness), I’ll give you a blank where the switch currently is as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

31s were a factory tire size (they all used the same ride height though) so you should be perfectly fine with 33x10.50. Stepping up to anything wider requires a body lift or trimming.

I would avoid moog branded upper ball joints if you can. They are absolute trash on this platform (and apparently moog parts now just suck in general). The AC Delco greasable ones have treated me well for years now.