adamzan

It could but usually only when warm. Have you tested the fuel pressure with a gauge? I also had a bad coolant temp sensor cause mine to have hard starts.

Yep, gotta press or burn the old bushings out. It is a pain in the ass. I got lucky and scored an already pulled set from a part out last time.

No problem. And like @gamellott said the poly bushings always seem to squeak unless you buy the right lube... For a truck there isn't really any benefit other than making the ride slightly more jarring and uncomfortable.

If you're going to save the OE axles to reboot yourself later on, may as well use this rockford ones. That is what I did 13 years ago and I actually pull the axles off the truck to put on my current wd21 (when the time comes, it doesn't get driven much). The boots still look and feel like they did back then. http://www.rockfordcv.com/Nissan_bootkits.htm

Imagine 40 hours for a clutch job... The book time to re&re the transmission is something like 10 or 11 hours... Were they machining the flywheel by hand? If you are up for a project you can try and replace the boots yourself, like Slart said it isn't a fun job and is quite messy. But if you want to save those oem axles, probably worth it. The aftermarket ones are OK, and they make some extended travel ones now that would be good if you plan on offroading it or lifting it.

Learned that lesson, mine weren't welded hot enough apparently. Noticed one of them was broke off the other day...

It's pretty easy, take the horn pad off and then there's a big nut to undo, I've been able to just pull them off without a puller every time. Not sure what else would fit but maybe a maxima from the same era would be nice if it did.

If insurance wants to write it off, you can definitely buy it back from them and fix it yourself. I have a nearly complete parts truck just outside of Ottawa if you need something. Glad you are ok though. fskc, I barely drive my wd21 anymore mainly because I'm scared of this happening.

How old is your radiator. I had numerous issues with our r50 running too warm at higher speed/load and it was the radiator. The old one was full of scale even though the truck had regular coolant flushes most of it's life!

ACDelco kit on rock auto is the one you want, comes with everything.

I think if you don't put the resistor in it will remain on all the time when the truck is off because of how little power LEDs use. The "ghost power" that remains when the system is off is enough to dimly light them sometimes. @Slartibartfastcan correct me on this.

Glad to see you're still around, Garrett!

You absolutely need to perform final torque of the hardware with the truck on the ground. Just finger tighten them in the air. Torque spec really matters here, don't just buzz them on with an impact.

Sounds like the belts are worn or stretched. You can try tightening them up but if it has been happening for a while they're probably glazed. If you don't know when they were last changed, they are pretty cheap to replace.

The bigger hardware stores like fastenal and brafasco tend to carry that kind of stuff. Where did you find it? Would be good to link here!

Damn I've never seen that happen before. Usually the thing that wears out is the part that pushes on the reverse light switch, only on manuals.

The primary ones (which is what the ECU monitors and what matters) are hard to reach on these rigs from underneath, but the secondary ones could be easily cut out. I haven't heard of it happening much on this board but that's not to say it hasn't happened. Maybe one of the cages from the other vehicles could fit on the r50? It's a problem where I live too (Canada) but it seems mostly isolated to toyota and honda.

Good to hear. Not that you need it but you'll have better heat with the warmer stat too. Makes a big difference where I live!

At least these rigs the front diff has probably been so sparingly used since they don't turn with the hubs unlocked.

That's like the people that never do the brake fluid or transmission fluid changes and then wonder why they are always replacing stuck or leaking calipers and have to get the trans rebuilt every 75k. I have also notice these are the same people who call dealerships "stealerships".

If you don’t off-road or tow anything you can probably go longer on the differentials. Especially with the higher quality of todays lubricants. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should be able to make it work if they are both the same motor. For 2wd and 4wd you will have to swap the tail housing of your transmission onto the donor so the transfer case will bolt up

What did that freshly cut looking white wire go to before? Also goes into the mess of tape with the red wire. Also check the meter fuse inside the cab and see if it is blown. Have you spoken to the mechanic after this? These trucks aren't that complicated electrically, and don't use canbus or anything. I can't believe they just gave you the vehicle back like this... Insane. Maybe the best bet is to hit a wrecking yard and grab some factory cables and get rid of this mess. Or a part out on here.

Can you share a pic of the connections at the battery? I want to see what the mechanic did. Sounds like they caused more harm than good.

Yea that sounds like a failed transmission cooler line, should be fairly easy to fix. Maybe on turns the fluid is so low that it introduces air into it somewhere. They are like a differential with a vent, so not a complete airtight seal. Any dexron 3 compatible fluid will work, but the Nissan Matic D is the best fluid for these transmissions.