adamzan

For the 3.3 swap, if you want to keep all the VG30 accessories you can get a pulley adapter for the crank from Mr.510. Not sure if he has them in stock but he did have an ebay store.

I love the detail going into this build. I'm more of a slap the new parts in and install it kinda guy. Admire your patience.

I might delete on those lines next time I'm in there. Not sure about you but I don't like patching frames anymore so I don't drive my current wd21 in the winter salt lol.

The aftermarket distributors are hit and miss. They don't usually fail on the VG30, that's more of a VG33 thing. The bearing fails and causes the optical sensor to read wrong.

Yeah, if you're losing fuel pressure immediately, there's either a leak somewhere in the lines or the unit in the tank itself. I have seen on some vehicles the rubber hose connected to the pump inside the tank deteriorate over time causing this. But it usually comes with a really hard start condition too. The MAF wiring was a known issue on these trucks. Right at the connector and wiggling it did temporarily resolve it for a lot of people. So you might want to look there.

@SlartibartfastWhen you do this let me know. I'd be glad to buy all of the auto climate control parts off of you.

It doesn't need to be indexed, and the crank position sensor on the VG33E doesn't actually have anything to do with how the engine runs (yeah, I know lol). It is just there for diagnostics. Since it is a distributor-based system, it doesn't utilize it for engine timing.

I had this happen on mine and lived with it for years, turns out it was the alternator. You could try getting one of those ground loop isolators and see if that helps? Doesn't make sense to replace a working alternator. Also - another Ontario first gen? Where at? These are a rare sight these days and I don't even drive mine in the winter... Frame will rot out too fast lol.

You can get them on rock auto too, the trackmotive ones. Apparently they are quite good. I've ordered a set for mine as well!

The easiest solution for the transfer case shifter is to bend it forward slightly. The other option is to remove it, cut it and extend it by the same length of body lift installed. Last option, cutting the floor, not recommended but people have done it.

I have done at least 20 timing belts on these engines, using the 90 degree twist trick each time, and have never had a problem. As for the intake being hard to remove, I assume you're coming from carbed domestics lol. It's not that bad, certainly easier than the one I just did on my Volkswagen golf. The good thing is these engines run forever if you don't let the timing belt break. My last one I ran till just over 550k km (300k miles) and only retired it due to rust up here in the north. As for the plugs, don't spend $ on the iridium ones, just use the V power copper or G power platinum, they're more than good enough and last a long time.

This is the reason why I switched back to the light theme, actually I think it's better now than it was before... Before you couldn't see them at all.

I tried it. It worked but there was always some bull@!*% to fiddle with. Not as reliable as a factory efan car for sure. The mechanical fan moves more air than a electric will anyways. I went back to the mechanical one after a few months.

Not sure if sfd kits are made anymore but this guy is a member here and makes a lot of parts https://sfcreation.com/

Yup. Mine worked when I bought it but I had to redo it after something hit the condenser. I bought a vacuum pump and set of gauges. It gets down to the low 40s or high 30s. Coldest air of any car I own lol.

This weekend I fired up the 95 for the first time in a while. Noticed an exhaust leak at the header. Turns out I stripped one of the studs in the head during last years install. Luckily one of the "easy" ones so I pulled it and ordered a heli coil kit just in case. Cleaned it out, found a lot of memories from past relationships and road trips. Hopefully I'll have time in the coming weeks to install: New drivers front fender The other 3 speakers Exhaust stud Spare tire carrier bushing set.

Aftermarket parts are SUCH @!*%E these days. It's so hard replacing things on my '95 because you end up returning it 3 times before you get one that fits. My original starter died last summer and they went through 3 units on the tester before I got a good one... Kept the oem one and had it rebuilt at a shop as a spare. Those o2s are a little past their prime lol. I had a 5mpg increase on my 2002 xterra after changing the primaries. Couldn't believe it. Can easily get almost 20mpg on the freeway now driving nicely. Before the thing couldn't go past 15mpg no matter how slow or gingerly you drove it.

That looks like the same one I have. It fit my 1995 just fine. You have to remove one of the plugs to screw in the pressure switch. Idk about you guys but I can't live without the aircon in mine. Black truck with leather seats....

We'll have to meet up soon so I can grab that stuff off of ya.

Discovered my battery is toast. It's not swollen but like the opposite, its all sucked in looking. Was an AGM so that's weird.

Door arm rest. Would also be interested in some other stuff depending on condition lol.

Not sure if it is the same as the wd21 but the wheel speed sensors are only for the ABS. The speed sensor in the transfer case with the gear on it is what drives the speedometer signal.

Honestly it sounds like a broken wire or corrosion on a connector somewhere. It'll be a pain to track down but I'd start inspecting the wiring harness. You can view the 1997 factory service manual here: Nissan Service Manuals - NICOclub

Sounds like the fuel pressure bleeds down and then there is air in the system. This can happen if the little rubber line on the the fuel pump is damaged somehow.

They do last a long time. I retired my 1994 with over 600,000km on it mainly due to rust (Canada). Bought a clean one that "only" had 200,000 on it but no real rust to speak of. You can probably find an ARB bar used, they pop up from time to time.