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Didn’t think it would be so soon that I look back into driving the thing, but here we are. Check out my newest topic post for more

Sorry for the dead-end thread - this issue resolved itself on its own. I believe a loose connector has probably jostled itself back into place

Hi all, TLDR; Looking to rebuild or replace original VQ35DE that had 290k miles. Also looking to rebuild/replace transmission. Doing this to “start fresh” and not have to worry about repairs. Want to know how much it would cost for a self repair and common shop quote for each one. I’ve recently had my personal situation change quite a bit, and in the past I’ve really hesitated on doing more repairs on my Pathfinder. I’ve looked at buying a 2021 Frontier and even a 2019 Armada - while both of those really won me over I just can’t see myself paying 30-35k (after tax/registration etc.) for something that I’m trying to almost “re-live” my Pathfinder through, if that makes sense. I can’t find anything else that really embodies the tried-and-true feel of a barebones interior paired with a solid 4wd/AWD drivetrain. So, I’m back to square one with the old Pathy. Just under 290k miles, looking to rebuild or replace engine, transmission, and some other issues that need to be checked out by a shop. The big ones are engine/transmission because I want to hear someone else’s thoughts on that process. Is it worth going to a shop for that? I work full-time while still trying to attend college full-time as well so I really don’t have days to be slaving away in a garage like I was able to before. I’m also not really sure if I should have it rebuilt or try to import an 02 VQ35DE for a swap. Also, majority of the miles on this car are from my dad and I will say while he did maintain it often, it was almost on the basis of “waiting for an issue to happen then repairing it” kind of thing. So anything you could think of that needs to be replaced at the 250-300k mile range definitely needs work, so if someone could please let me know of any recommended big repairs, that would be awesome. Lastly, if this isn’t plausible for a car nearing 300k feel free to call me out on that - I know some Pathfinders have gone much longer than that but at this point I’m grasping at straws. Never thought I’d be making this post. Thank you for reading this far. -csprinkle

Who has/had this problem, have you also that it could cause parasitic draw? Now it started again, my battery dies sometimes when car is parked for several days. Do you think there could be a connection between these two problems? Also I don't use either cassette or cd player, only radio. Do you know if it's possible to disable CD and cassette feature in the head unit?

When I say "no brakes", I don't mean a spongey pedal. I don't mean you have to bottom out the pedal to get braking power. I mean it has NO brakes. 0. It's like the brake pedal is attached to thin air. Brake light is on. This leads me to believe possibly air got into the ABS module? You can build up some, extremely minimal pressure with the engine off. Like, "I definitely wouldn't drive this" minimal pressure, and it loses that pressure if you keep it depressed until you're at the floor. And then once the engine is on, any semblance of resistance in the pedal instantly goes away. Master cylinder? Worked absolutely fine when it was parked. Vehicle sat for a few months, I changed the pads and rotors in the front, and on the passenger side, I didn't crack the bleeder before compressing the caliper piston because I'm an impatient bastard who didn't wanna get up to grab the brake bleeding bottle. I didn't perform a fluid flush after this, and I plan on doing so on Monday, but the situation in which not doing the flush when using the bleeder bottle on one single caliper and topping off the brake fluid could result in NO brake pedal whatsoever is strange and esoteric to me. No leaks, fluid level never changes. I should also note, I recently changed the valve covers out, as well. Maybe something I forgot to reconnect when doing that job? You have to take the intake manifold off. I can't imagine what could cause NO brake functionality, seeing as the only thing I could imagine forgetting to reconnect is the brake booster, and that'd result in a hard brake pedal. Everything I know can cause these issues causes a spongey pedal or extreme travel, NO brake pedal while having a full master cylinder reservoir is unheard of for me. Basically makes it impossible to diagnose when the symptom is "nothing happens for no apparent reason". Except I guess the behavior when the engine is off feels kind of like how a bad master cylinder feels? Rear drums needing to be re-adjusted? Wheel cylinders leaking? Master cylinder's completely fskced? Basically my flowchart right now is: Do the full fluid flush, starting from the proportioning valve and moving up to the front driver side Redo the shoes/wheel cylinders if it's still a problem Replace the master cylinder, and if I can see a leak from the back of the master cylinder, replace the brake booster as well. After that, I'm out of ideas. I'd like to hear if anyone has any better ideas than me or ways I can actually properly troubleshoot it before I just start throwing the parts cannon at it, though. Could there bed something wrong with the pedal itself? That seems difficult to imagine, seeing as you can build some resistance when the engine is off. Thank you for any of your ideas.

Wrong forum category, whoops!

I have brand new poly bushings on my steering rack. They suck. I am going back to rubber as soon as I get a chance.

The classic symptom I've heard for slipping rack bushings is that the wheel centering keeps changing, especially after turning to full lock. I wouldn't expect it to only act up in one direction, unless maybe one bushing was much worse than the other. Worth inspecting them if that's the last thing you did before it acted up. I would have someone turn the steering back and forth while I watched the rack. Should be pretty obvious if it's moving around. Check anything the alignment guys touched (or should have) while you're under there.

scored some 33s this weekend. think this thing should look pretty good once the SFD comes in. ready to get it on the road. Still gotta find a transmission or tear this one apart and replace what ever bearing is bad in it still https://imgur.com/6MnME5J https://imgur.com/XLSO7dk

Hey all- I replaced my steering rack bushings with some poly ones from Siberian bushings (brand). After alignment, everything is good on the highway when I turn left, but after I turn right, it has some shakes. I know there are a lot of possibilities for some highway shakes, but does it make sense with the turning that my rack is moving a bit? I'm thinking the rack moved into the 'left turn' position before they aligned it at the shop... The Siberian bushings do fit a little different, and a slightly different shape than OEM. Has anyone else used them? And/or any other ideas? Thanks

yah i know what i can and cant do in those aspects lol never know what little quirks youll find though. seen something about the PS lines and a missing link which noone will ever mention on FB. i dont doubt i can do it, i just wanna know the the little aggravating aspects that noone talks about you know lol

Forums are definitely the right place to find information. I dare to say 90% of the people on the Facebook groups have zero idea about anything specific to the r50. It's all, "what lift, wheels, bumper, lights....?"

Good deal. im in a few of the R50 groups just figured the forum way would have been a better approach to ask. ill give that video a watch, i appreciate it

I arrived at the same conclusion with the one I messed with. But that's weird that swapping the fuse changed it for a while.

After more diagnosis and reading, I found that I should check for continuity through that little circular piece and it / ignition coil is the issue. Basically new coil and I’m good to go!

Car parts are such a crapshoot these days.

So I just checked that little resistor / capacitor thing on the side of the dizzy and there’s. No resistance. Bingo!?

Before 3 days ago, the filter was replaced 2019~ but after a pump swap and filter swap nothing. I know I have good pressure and flow at the rail so unless something is in there then it’s fine. now it won’t even start after priming. It’s dead. i tested spark with a shop friend and there’s nothing in any of them. I do have a newish cap rotor and plugs. i did pull apart the dizzy and it has no rust inside, there’s 12V and 5 Volts on the large plug out of the dizzy do it should be getting power. I’m trying to get the ignition coil out as I speak but one screw is so stuck it’s getting frustrating. Everything looks fine so I’m thinking something in the coil or the module died. Either way I have a new one coming Tuesday from the part store if I do want to swap it

There are r50 sfd groups on Facebook and some write ups floating around the internet. Cal Rodriguez did a YouTube video installing his sfd that will give you a good idea. The SFD kit is subframe drop blocks strut spacers Engine mount blocks Longer panhard drop bracket Missing link lower control arm cross brace Mounting hardware Steering extension extended brake lines

I have the same problem, 2003 SE with BOSE Audio. The radio would not start, I would remove and reinstall the amp fuse and it starts after that. I solved the problem for at least a year after buying new quality Japanese fuse and installing it instead of original one (which is still fine but had brown coloured legs). Now it started again, don't know how to remediate it, if there is a connection issue in the fuse box, why it starts right away? I think it's related to the unit itself, it causes some condition that only "fuse restart" helps.

The long prime thing sure does sound like a fuel system issue. Long shot, but when did you last change the fuel filter? I had an X come in with a bad dizzy this summer. It had the usual symptoms--ran fine when cold, acted up when warm, getting worse over time. I found a whole lot of rust powder and an ejected bearing cage under the cover, so, yeah, that was an easy diagnosis. The symptoms don't sound like a match for yours, but it's easy enough to check for.

well the Vg33 whether its in the pathy, frontier, or Xterra, seem to be a common issue. Ive put a handfull in my 01 xterra. worth sourcing one and trying out. I keep a spare in the back lol

So it was not the fuel pump, swapped it and it did seem to fix another smaller issue I had but then it died on my again so can't say for sure it did anything for the better. I'm now leaning toward spark. I plugged in the Autel and everything seems to be reading properly as far as sensors go. I tried to pull out a spark plug then ripped one of the wires, so I think that's a tomorrow me issue. My brother just had his distro give him the common failures on his VG30 so maybe mine isn't far behind it. I shouldn't have given him my spare distro.... If it was a wire, one cylinder would die same with a single injector, plug, A VALVE EVEN etc. so now i'm going to check ALL spark and see if that's where the issue is

i bought these same ones years back. Hit the tip of that center section with a flapper wheel and knocked it back a little. used the stock cclip and all was well

id slap the tank a few times with a mallet and see if you can jar the pump. had to do this before and it at least got me home