All Activity

Hello everyone, I want to upgrade the shocks on the Pathfinder to Bilsteins. I currently have the KYB gas adjust shocks. I've searched the bilstein website and it states that they don't make any shocks for my vehicle, however, I saw on 4x4 parts that they sell Bilsteins for my vehicle. I have a one inch spacer lift, so I'll most likely go for the Bilsteins 5100 series, no lift option instead of the 2" lift option shock which they also have. WIll this bolt up without any modifications needed and should I get the no lift or 2" lift option since I have a 1 inch space? I'm just confused as Bilstein says they don't make for the 97 Pathfinder, but 4x4 parts says it fits the vehicle. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981406-pathfinder-5100-series-bilstein-rear-shock.html

I just wanted to update, being a truck driver, in situations like this, I wish I had normal working hours... I was able to get the ECU and shake the bits out without having to remove the cover. I used a valve tool I had for the a/c when I had replaced the o-rings, to turn the ECU back into the non diagnostic position. I have swapped out the relay so far. Tomorrow, I hope to have time to swap out the fuel pump and see if the issue persist. Thank you so much for your help and words of encouragement!

I'm familair with them! *Shcoker* I've been running one for about 8 years. It will charge near 14.8 volts at start up but settle around 14.6 after a few minutes. It's a big help with keeping AGM batteries charged. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to reach out.

Lol yeah, I prefer the JDM versions of most Nissans because they usually came with more options.

What in the AI spam hell?

You need to take off the oil pan to make sure it fits and seals properly. The seal has a channel where the rubber upper pan seal fits, and you should use RTV to avoid leaks. If you have future transmission issues, you might want to look into a remanufactured unit. They usually come with updated parts and warranties, which can give you some peace of mind. If you're ever looking for a reliable replacement, you can find a good 700r4 transmission for sale.

Sounds like you've got plenty to keep you busy! Where are you seeing that P1140 means water in the fuel? I've never heard of a moisture sensor in a gasoline fuel system. Sounds more like both cam sensors (or their wiring) are out. Try shooting some silicone spray in the rear lock, and work it around. Crap gets in there and they get cranky. Wiggle it, flush it, wiggle it some more. Might get lucky. Or take the inside trim off and see if it's actually the lock that's bound up. My door locks worked a whole lot better after I lubed the linkage they're connected to.

I would keep your old transfer unless you know there's something wrong with it. The later transfer will work if needed, but you may need to swap the lockout plate and shift linkage to make it work right. There's a difference in chain design between early/late transfers, but I have not seen evidence that one is actually stronger than the other.

The ECU does not have a kill function, and the alarm only kills power to the starter, so if it's cranking, it's not that. I have run codes on mine with the engine running and never had an issue, so I doubt it's the position of the pot that's got it upset. IIRC there's just a slot cut in the end of the pot's shaft. So if that's snapped, then there's a chunk of metal knocking around inside the computer, which is not a good thing. If the other side is still there, and you can turn it with pliers, it may be good enough to work with, once you get the loose chunk out of there. If not, you may be able to track down a replacement for the pot itself by dimensions and resistance and solder it in. It may even be marked. Given the symptoms in your other thread, it sounds like you've got no/inadequate fuel pressure. Get that chunk of metal out of the computer before it shorts something, then chase the fuel system. Hopefully the new relay does it. If not, I would unplug the pump and put power to it directly (lawnmower battery or something), and see if that gets it running. If it does, chase the wiring. If it doesn't, chase the pump.

Sorry for late response I am on a vacation. Yes i ordered repair kit for master cylinder along with new brake pads and discs (the left one is badly worn due to seized caliper). I will change all of this and bleed the brakes once again and hope for the best :), i have also ordered new brake shoes for aft brakes. I will try to find some info about the booster but I checked and search quite a bit and found nothing for now :/. Kind regards Samo

Can't really say on this one other than perhaps a pair of needle nose pliers could be used to adjust.

This may be related to my other topic: Pathy on Saturday sounded like it ran out of fuel (but has half a tank). Sunday, I remembered about the ECU thanks to you fine people! I got the process started, the engine light went off, I went to turn the screw the opposite direction and that is when I discovered I broke it. Argh! Yesterday, was the first day I tried to start it since Saturday. The start up sounds like a kill switch or like the distributor needs replacing (it was replaced a few months back). Does the ECU create a sort of kill switch effect? The factory alarm has been unplugged for about two years and has no other alarm. Do i need to put the ECU "switch" in the original position in order for it to return to normalcy? If so, is there a way (after removing passenger seat) or do I need to replace the entire unit? Just something that popped in my head at 3am when I should had been sleeping. Thanks in advance!

You can still get an OEM sending unit from a 93-95. It's a slightly different design but it should work in previous models. P/N is 25061-85P05. Check ebay (or amayama.com for best price if you don't mind waiting several weeks coming from Japan). You'll have to swap various bits and pieces over from the old unit, so don't toss the old one. I'm not sure if anyone knows of an easier option but this is the route I went since I figured it would last another 30+ years. I also replaced the fuel pump (w/ strainer) as well as the hoses (fuel submersible rated 5/16"). If you're really on a super tight budget you'll probably want a multimeter to confirm the sending unit is actually bad (and not the instrument cluster) before buying anything. The resistance (ohms) changes on the circuit when you actuate the lever which you can read with the multimeter. The proper values for full/empty you'll have to dig up on these forums and I'm sure the procedure can be found on youtube.

Howdy folks, I'm obligated to mention that this is my first post here on these forums so I apologize for any informalities in advance. In late January of this year I picked up my '92 SE from a friend in town. Vehicle is in pretty alright shape, had just north of 348k on the clock, and I've since put about 4k miles on it. So far the truck has been an absolute blast and I love it with every fiber of my being. Though, as with any 32 year old car, it has its fair share of issues and electrical gremlins. Most pressing issue that I'm trying to get solved currently is the fuel sending unit. In a world where gas is 3.50 a gallon, it would be nice to have a working unit. When I first got the car, the gauge only read a quarter short (from a full tank, it would read 3/4 full) Over time, the gauge started bouncing back and forth from empty to where ever the right level was at and not long ago it just stopped working entirely. The fuel light still works, and currently, when the tank is completely full, the gauge will read half a tank. I've already removed the fuel pump/sending unit once, and the PCB for the sending unit that the swing arm slides around on looked pretty crap with a ton of black scarring across the face of it. I ended up taking a fine grain sheet of sandpaper and gently running it across the PCB to scrape away some of the crud, though it doesn't seem like it did anything. Looked into replacement units, and unfortunately it seems like they outright don't exist, or if they do they're used and cost me an entire paycheck. I've been checking junkyards in my area (Northeast FL) and not a single one has a WD21 in their yard. There was a go-pull-it in Jacksonville that had a white WD but the listing vanished. Anyone have any insight on where to go from here? I'm aware that this basically boils down to increasing part scarcity with this model but I'd like to get some input from some of the great minds from the NPORA for a potential solution.

Yay!!! I had similar issue once, but with a starter. And then, the next starter. Then, 6 months later, the starter again. I wish mine were to be that simple! I am worried about it being extensively complicated like fuel injectors (since they aren't easy access). The relay has to be ordered. Big surprise lol hopefully, it will ship tomorrow.

Had a fuel pump go on me not long ago, always a fun part of your day. The aftermarket pump then failed a few weeks after, so I replaced it with a working 35yo OEM second hand part, which has given me more confidence

Yes sorry, that is how he tested it. And thank you very much for your advice!

Not sure where he tested in the circuit but if he checked the positive lead to the fuel pump against the chassis (ground) to determine if the fuel pump was even getting +12v power and it's not then I would replace the fuse (for good measure) and then also the fuel pump relay (relatively cheap, easy) and see if that resolves the issue.

Saturday, my 95 died on a fairly busy road. At the time, it did start back up, it sounded weak -like it was struggling to stay running like it is out of fuel, and dies out moments later. It would not stay running long enough to drive it. Today, it won't run, but does have spark. My neighbour, a forklift mechanic and car enthusiast, did some testing. The fuel pump is only putting out 6.7 volts. Is normal? He also spoke of how it would register power and not register power moments later, using a circuit tester. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRK778L4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Today, it wouldn't even run, not even for a moment. Is the low volts normal for a fuel pump? My neighbour pulled the fuel pump out, connected it to the power, and had me put the key in the ON position. He said the pump felt like it turned on. Any suggestions or ideas? Anyone experienced this before?

Hey! Do you know if I should install a new transfercase too? Or will the current one on my Pathfinder still work?

Hello everyone. I've had an oil leak on my Pathfinder for several years now, but it has gotten worse recently. The oil primarily leaks out once the engine is turned off, on flat ground and downhill. I replaced the valve cover gaskets recently, it was not leaking, but I simply replaced them when I had the intakes off. Upon looking underneath, there is a notable amount of oil on the pan, especially at the front and rear of the pan by the lip seals. Oil is on the housing of the tranmssion, but I suspect it is originating from the oil pan. I'm certain it is the oil pan and skeptical of it possibly being the rear main seal. I had the rear main seal replaced about 8 years ago. Vehicle has no other problems aside from some minor rocker panel rust that I plan on fixing. There is no other rust or rotten areas on the underside as I tried my best since it was new to keep that clean in the wintertime. I took the vehicle to the shop and was quoted $1500 (Queens, nyc) to drop the front diff and tramission to replace the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front transmission seal, and motor mounts. Does the transmission have to be dropped on these pathfinders to repalce the oil pan seal? If not I may just tackle the oil pan for now. I would have continued to live with this leak, but it's just getting worse and making a mess of the driveway and anywhere I park on the street in my neighborhood. Please let me know what you guys think of the quote and if its worth it to drop the trans now too. Thank you

Good, sounds like you know what you're working with. Too bad the computer has no idea what's up, but yeah, that's pretty typical for old EFI. There are a few designs on Youtube for homemade smoke machines. The cheapest I've seen was a hand-operated transfer pump with a gas station cigar stuck in the intake. The ones I've been looking at have a can or a jar with baby oil, a soldering iron, and a low-pressure air feed, which AFAIK is pretty close to how the proper ones work. Without a smoke machine, you can hold a length of hose to your ear and poke the other end around the running engine, and maybe home on the noise that way. You can also shoot carb cleaner at where you think the leak is and see if the idle picks up from the engine sucking in fuel, but I've never had much luck with that method.

Before all of these issues it would run just fine with or without the air cleaner. After the car wash incident it got a new cap, rotor, and wires. I also cleaned the plugs just to be sure. Not sure if I could build a smoke machine but that would be something I might have to take to a shop and I doubt anyone around here could figure it out. The EGR has since been deleted and is blocked off by a gasket and metal plate that I made, which I suppose I could check and make sure. I just finished rebuilding my other throttle body, and plan to put it on tomorrow when I get a chance. I have the entire FSM in my Google drive, and since this seems to be a vacuum problem with a code 55 on the ECU (1988), there's no way I can use the OBD system. I have several MAFs that I tried with the rebuilt TBI but neither of them changed anything. When I rebuilt the new TBI unit, I took it all the way down to just the shell, meaning I even removed the throttle bearings, seals, and butterfly shaft and then put them all back after it was clean. The only thing I could have found was that the idle up solenoid with the blue shrink wrap on it has exposed wires at the end. However after the car wash incident it did seem to clear up, but a whistling noise and persistent lack of power developed which led me to take this course of action.

I haven't worked with the TBI, but I've read that they tend to run poorly when the air cleaner is off. I guess it smooths airflow over the MAF or something. Wouldn't explain the RPM dropping at the car wash, but if you're testing it with the air cleaner off, throw it on and see if it clears up any. Idling low at the car wash makes me suspect something got wet. If it was shaky, I'd be looking at ignition components (wires/cap/rotor). Otherwise, could be electrical. IMO your best bet at this point would be hooking it up to a smoke machine. That should find your vacuum leak pretty quick. Could be a rolled O ring, throttle shaft seals (the instructions you linked say not to dunk those in cleaner, not sure why not), something along those lines. I would also check that the brake booster, PCV, and EGR (if that's still around) are in good shape, in case it's not the throttle body that's acting up. I don't have a source for the '88 service manual, but on the off chance you haven't found it already, here's the '89. EF&EC section might help you track it down, or at least understand how the system is supposed to work, which might point you in the right direction. '87 had a different code table and some other weirdness, so if yours is closer to '87 than '89, and the codes you pull don't make sense (44 was "no malfunction" on the '87 ECU, replaced by 55 on later years), let me know and I'll dig out my paper copy of the '87.

Oh also I fixed the rear driver side door, so thats great. Also fixed up the rear hatch to where the only remaining issue is the key will not turn to the left or "unlock" position. Not sure if I'll ever be able to fix that without a $$ locksmith though. So new tally: 1. Six engine codes 2. 0.08A draw thru SECU, probably some subsystem 3. rear hatch key cannot turn left (to unlock) 4. brake pedal easily pushes to the floor 5. sway bar links are zip tied on... 6. rear trailing arms are garbage. 7. rear wiper is seized