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Okay I'll test the EGR and the O2 sensor by unplugging them. I'll take a look at the MAF connector as well but I cleaned the connection when I did the testing with the MAF from my good running Pathfinder but not a bad idea to give it a thorough looking at. Thanks! Will report back after I test.

Mine did something similar. Kinda fell on its face just off idle, otherwise fine. The plug for the MAF was worn out. Hasn't done that (or the stalling at idle that it also sometimes did, which usually went away for a while when I messed around with the plug) since I replaced the pigtail.

Upstate North Carolina truck—in an area with one or two light snows per winter. He provided pictures from a couple years ago when it was up on the lift to get new exhaust. some surface rust on heat shields and skid plate, but zero structural rust, and little to zero rust on any of the main hardware. No rust visible anywhere in the engine bay, other than a couple spring clamps on some of the vacuum lines. He has done all the regular items: -timing belt, water pump, clutch/pressure plate, shocks, alternator, starter, rear trailing arms… all documented.

Sounds like a good truck and it's a 5 speed. Do you know if he's done the timing chain and water pump? How is the rust? 6500$ US asking price is a bit much. But sounds like it would be a solid rig to last you many years if he's kept up on it.

Hello gents, I have been looking to purchase a 4Runner or Pathfinder in the 1995-2000 era for a while. Mostly focusing on the Yota. But I have recently come across a great find in a 1996 Pathfinder, and I am curious what the community thinks? You hear about car stories like this, but I have personally not ever come across one before. An older gentlemen is selling his 1996 Pathfinder SE 4x4 that he is the original and only owner / driver of. He is retiring and moving to be with his children / grandkids—the reason he is selling. This Pathfinder has been garage kept it’s whole life—and it is obvious. Even the weatherstripping has no dry-rot or cracks. He has stayed on top of the maintenance, and clearly has the means to take care of his baby. Nothing has been neglected. Additionally, nothing has been modified. EVER. It is bone stock. In addition to the standard options of the SE 4x4, this vehicle has $5,000 dollars worth of options. I know, because he sent me a picture of the WINDOW STICKER along with the other documents. Included in the options of this SE, are the power sunroof, off-road package, leather package, spare tire carrier on the back, and auto-climate control. All of which work flawlessly. The seller claims the only item that doesn’t work as new, is the power antenna. The leather seats look incredible—though I prefer cloth for durability. The paint looks incredible. It truly is a time capsule. Despite the 30 years and 175,000 miles. It currently gets driven a few thousand miles per year. The older gent doesn’t take it on trips—he has a new vehicle for that, and is not comfortable driving it on at highway speeds since the speed limit went up from 55mph due to the engine rpms exceeding 3200 rpms. 🥹 And did I mention this is a 5-speed manual truck? Truly a gem of a find for anyone looking for a first series R50. The downside? It is 2 and a half hours away—so a bit of a hike for me. The asking price is $6500. What does the community think? Worth it? Not sure if he would take less for his baby. And I don’t want to drive that far to just one back empty-handed.

The only thing I could think of that would exactly match those conditions (fine at WOT and idle) would be the EGR which operates in the area between WOT and idle. You can easily rule this out by unplugging the solenoid connector that controls the vacuum which should disable the EGR. It's a little black thing with 3 vacuum lines attached located below the throttle body. For the O2, I also think you can just unplug it and see if the behavior goes away in order to rule that one out. This is located on the pass side fender where a bunch of connectors are attached. Locate the one that has wiring that goes to the back side of the engine/across the transmission.

Hey Lucas, in response to your report about multiple posts, if you posted this via the Tapatalk app, then it was not an "internet error" but was actually a well-known Tapatalk error that has been a thing in our, along with many other communities, since the advent of Tapatalk... Basically, when you post via Tapatalk and it gives you an error... or no response at all... please DO NOT refresh/repost. Instead, go back and check the forum listings, where you'll most likely find that your topic was indeed posted. The NPORA Staff, brought this up directly with the Tapatalk staff many years ago (documented here on the forum, somewhere). But they have ever since, remained 100% unwilling to correct the issue!

Hello everyone, my rear suspension is starting to give out on my 96 and I would like to replace the shocks with bilsteins, 4x4 parts claims to have a no lift shock but doesn’t list a part number. The only number I can find is 33-185552 but my understanding is those should only be used with a 2 inch lift. I’m keeping my rig stock height so if anyone knows of a part number for bilsteins that work or if they even make them that would be much appreciated.

Oh I forgot to mention that I also swapped my TPS and MAF sensor back and forth between my good running 93 pathfinder and the 92 so those appear to be functioning properly.

Greetings! Been using the forum for a few years now for great information for my 93 pathfinder which is running great. But i am having a problem with my 92 pathfinder project and my searches on the site have not been very successful. My 92 pathfinder 4x4 manual has a hesitation on partial throttle where it kind of feels like a misfire or delay. Full throttle there is no issue and it idles like a champ. So far the following has been replaced: Timing belt / water pump Distributor Fuel filter Fuel injectors (just finished replacing these earlier today) Spark plugs and plug wires various vacuum hoses etc. I am basically stumped. My ECU shows 5-5 (which means running normal or no codes i believe) so the ecu is not sensing anything. Was thinking about replacing the fuel pump and maybe the o2 sensor? anyone have any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks to everyone on here. This forum has been a godsend trying to keep these old pathfinders alive!

Check fuel pressure and for sparks has both. Want even cough on staring fluid. Any ideas ?

1993 pathfinder 3.0 crank no start. Have spark from coil to cap to plug. Checked fuel psi that’s fine also the plugs where damp. Won’t even cough on starting fluid. Unplugged maf still nothing. Any ideas ?

1993 pathfinder 3.0 crank no start. Have spark from coil to cap to plug. Checked fuel psi that’s fine also the plugs where damp. Won’t even cough on starting fluid. Unplugged maf still nothing. Any ideas ?

Problem found.. the timing is WAY off, The engine ignites over 20 degrees wrong

Yes, provided it's late 00-04 Frontier or 00-04 Xterra. 99 and early 00 Frontiers had 31-spline diffs and slightly different 4.625 ratios. 96-00 Pathfinders and the years I mentioned are 33-spline and had 4.636 available. 01-04 Pathfinders were only 4.363 ratios. All of those year 3rd members will bolt in, it's just the different ratios and splines to be aware of. And of course if you want (or want to keep) an LSD unit.

Looks like it. Hawairish's LSD thread says the early X or Fronty LSD has the best stock breakaway torque of the 33-spline H233Bs, so keep an eye out for that if you have/want an LSD.

Okay, thank you. If I were to get a HG46 differential from an Xterra or Frontier, would that swap right in without any issues?

Nope, not unless you swap the front diff too, and most people who swap ratios are going the other way.

I checked the data plate and I have an HG46, and the 04 Pathfinder has an HG43. I'm assuming that will not work.

Also now running when holding foot on gas, but smoke coming from 4th cyl exhaust side, guess something might leak?

So I bought an 88 Pathfinder, and it had a broken cylinder head gasket, new was in the car already, I've changed it, missed and later corrected the chain timing. Now it starts but run like a piss and wind. Runs poorly on idle ( carb not been tampered with) if I give a little gas it runs on idle on about 2000 RPM for a few seconds then going down to off. Happens every time I start. Changed: cylinder head gasket, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. At this moment I'm lost.. like an illegal immigrant at a bumper truck rally..

AFAIK it should swap right in, provided the gear ratios are the same (check the data plate in the engine bay).

Hello everyone, the differential on my 97 Pathfinder with 220k miles has been humming for a few years now on the highway. Is it possible to swap over the 3rd member from an 04 Pathfinder? I am wondering if I can simply swap the 3rd member from the 04 Pathfinder into the differential housing on my 97 Pathfinder? Thank you

Also my MAF sensor seems to be slightly burned and one of the diodes is close to breaking point, will probably replace while I’m at it but first I get to pull the intake back off and find the correct plug for my knock sensor, might figure out how to relocate it like Slarti. Any tips for doing so are greatly appreciated

The extra two pin connector on my old wiring harness is capped so I do have the correct plug going to my coil, when I replaced the knock sensor recently I believe I plugged it into the wrong black clipped plug and yes I replaced my crankshaft position sensor after the motor was in and made sure to turn the motor to tdc and mark where my rotor was pointing before pulling it