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How about the MAF sensor? The TPS should be adjusted and set with feeler gauges and a multimeter. Then idle relearn must be set. You can turn the key to ignition for 10 seconds then off for 5 seconds and repeat this about 14 times consecutively. If TPS isn’t set right it will also mess with your transmission shift points. I had a problem similar problem to yours a few years back and it turned out to be MAF sensor. But I had gotten a code for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The PO was a single female, original owner and saved every receipt showing she way overpaid for service but it was well maintained. No doubt she accepted whatever the shop said, but I can't figure why. The shop has perfect 5* ratings too. ARB shows it never failed a smog test (until now) and the rear cats are not monitored so they wouldn't be the cause anyway, unless plugged or rusted out. This is one of those jobs that I'm just not sure. i mean I could just put in resonators but then find out they should have been compliant cats after all. I will add that the smog shop noted CARB has become very strict in the last couple years, especially with the visual inspection. $1k fines are more common and some places have been shut down.

man you guys in the states have some weird laws. the fact you failed an inspection for having too many cats is weird to me. surely that shouldnt be an issue. best of luck with the retest

I’ve not had the pleasure of dealing with CA emissions laws, but it seems like the problems here are that a) the OE system was tampered with, and b) was done so with non-compliant parts. There’s no basis of what’s better, just what’s legal. CA tends to write the rules when it comes that stuff. But yeah, I also don’t get why the PO would’ve put rear cats on it. My guess is some other shop told him that it needed 4 cats to pass emissions because they didn’t understand the difference between CA and FED emission setups for the vehicle. In this case, seems like the SMOG guys are confirming that the truck is only supposed to have two cats, so two cats it is.

Yeah, I'm looking at AP/Eastern resonators (pt# 301811S, universal fit). They are 24" total length x 1.75 for only $15 ea. I see the Walker assembly on Amazon for $85 ea but if I go with them I will need to cut off the flange and splice in about 6" of pipe anyway. Who ever installed the cats welded them on to the pipe (with o2 bung) and also welded it to the muffler side, cutting off the flange. I would prefer the oem look of the Walkers though.

Gear ratios for the R50 (96-04 Pathfinder) are either 4.636 or 4.363, depending on original tire size (96-00), and 4.363 for 01-04. The ratios are NOT interchangeable with gears from the WD21, as the H233B rear end has 33-splines vs 31 on the WD21 H233B. Notably, the front diff (R200A) on the R50 has a reverse-cut ring/pinion, so no ratios other than 4.636 or 4.363 will work. Many, but not all R50's were equipped with rear LSD. There may be an orange "Use LSD oil only" sticker on the back of the rear diff. If not, the sticker may have come off or the LSD is open. However, the breakaway torque on the R50 stock LSD is abysmal, and largely unsuitable for any type of decent traction advantage on rugged terrain.

hi guys, new here and was hoping one of my 1st topics was gonna be a build thread. sadly thats not the case. ive trawled through the forums trying to find an answer to my problem but cant find anything yet. if this has been posted before somewhere, please let me know where and i can delete this. my truck decided to die one day and has driven me to the point of madness with trying to fix it. when driving, it coughed a couple times, drove ok for a minute or so then stopped running all together. i suspected a fuel pump. after checking, i have found sufficient flow to and from the engine. i also have spark and the distributor was replaced 20 000km ago. i eventually got it started and it would idle perfectly and slowly increase revs with no issues. but on wide open throttle it would just die. when trying to restart it, i have to crank it for ages and it barely fires up. but when it does, it idles fine. ive checked the AFM and that seems fine and replace the TPS. after changing that it wont start at all now, even going back to the old TPS. im not showing any engine lights on the dash. while waiting for an OBD2 adaptor to show up, any ideas on what else i can look at, or how to test the AFM with a multimeter. dont want to have to waste money fitting new or 2nd hand parts if not neccesary. if i cant get her to run, she might be off to the scrap yard. im at my wits end with it, please help vehicle is a 2000 r50 with the vg33e motor and auto box cheers, leppa

I'm pretty sure it had resonators. I just replaced my resonators with walker units. Amazon will ship to california since they are not emission items. The previous owner had the driver side resonator replaced with a cat for some reason.

Bringing back this old thread - '03 PF with 174k miles. This is exactly what my son is going through with his bi-annual California smog check. My I/M code reader showed a bad bank 1 front cat so I replaced it but the smog check showed the rear cats were replacements and non-carb so it failed visually. I talked to another shop and they said the same thing and that if I removed the rear cats he would pass it. I do have a receipt from the prior owner that the rear cats were replaced back in 2011 for $900 but nothing more than that, no reason or if had factory cats or resonators. This PF is originally a Pennsylvania vehicle and the emissions sticker shows CA compliant and "2TWC" and not "2TWC(2)", so based on what I've read it should just have two front cats. Right now I'm going with installing straight pipes on it and taking it back to the shop. It's just strange that this is exactly what the OP had a problem with, I mean nobody in their right mind would put more cats on a vehicle, right? My son will probably sell this great PF (his first car) in the next year and we don't want the next owner to have any problems or think we tampered with emissions.

The rack is now leaking from the passenger side, and quite badly. I have to refill the fluid every 3 days or so or I start getting whining from the pump. And no amount of stop leak seems to help. Super disappointing, but lesson learned. Better to get a junker rack that’s in good shape then to trust a cheap reman. I’ll be sourcing a pull and pay replacement hopefully this weekend.

Here is the situation you wish to avoid

In Australia we have what's called a 'changeover' where you purchase a reconditioned transmission but give them back your old one as a core, which they rebuild and sell to the next guy etc etc.

For real I can’t eat regular Mayo anymore lol. Thanks. Blessed to find this rig. Grandma owned and hardly operated. Rolled straight out of grandmas garage you could say LOL

Yep always started cold 100% of the time. This is for a Maxima but the process is similar. Undo all the screws under the steering wheel, then the screws attaching the plastic to the dash. About 3:30 into this video this guy starts his car with a screwdriver, you can do the same. I don't think it really bypasses the switch, because I think it is, but it was more reliable than starting it with my key the few times I tested it. Replacing the switch has fixed it.

Saracha Mayo, that stuff is the bomb! The front end in your Pathfinder and paint in general is immaculate btw! Looks like it rolled right out of the factory Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey there, I’m trying to mount a brush bar that came off a 93 pathfinder however my bumper (1991) is different than a 1993. Does anyone know if a 93 bumper will mount to a 91? I’d like to mount the brush bar with out having to cut holes or slots in my precious OEM bumper.

Mine were like this as well, I got some wd40 on a rag, wiped down the tracks, regulator, window mount’s plastic slide pieces and then put a little bit of grease on the track and it works brand new.

Thanks for the tips! It randomly just stopped the day I was going to take it apart and replace what I assumed was a relay. Thankfully it hasn’t came back and has not been triggered by messing with the fog lights. So ya know what they say, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

July 2021: No Entries

Hmmm..... Yeah, and it's the chip I need. I have 2 spare keys that can unlock the vehicle but not start it. I'd love to get another "can start the vehicle" key in case I lose this one up in the woods somewhere. I usually have a floor pump in my vehicle as riding is my main "sport". The inflator isn't a bad idea to keep around for needing something in a pinch. I have a couple of them already, so it wouldn't hurt to chuck an old one somewhere in the box.

So, I am not actually able to get a new snap ring on the outer side of the spline. the mile marker hub won't allow me to seat the snap ring into place. This doesn't seem right, I wonder why this is happening? Edit to add: when going from auto locking to manual locking, the snap ring on the cv axle moves from it's old spot behind the new manual locking hubs to the outside of it, just before the cover. I was attempting to have the snap ring on both positions, when I realized they were doing the same thing -- holding the cv axle from slipping out. Everything went on smoothly after that. I used lock-tite on the new manual locking bolts, since most videos and reviews say the bolts slip out if you don't watch out for them.

@willaayinteresting... you were able to start it totally cold though? Any way to bypass the ignition switch so I could test this out next time it happens?

@FirstGenFreakI've definitely left it unchecked for months, hah. What is a "changeover trans?"

Have you fixed the power valves? If not, that’s a must. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 Key & fob are easy - it’s the chip that’s the problem. Watch the pressure on the AirLifts. I’ve used them & they’re great but it’s imperative for their longevity that you keep a minimum pressure in them. BTW, I found a quick & easy way to pop them up was with a bicycle CO2 inflator - works pretty well since they are low volume. It’s instantly ready & fits in the glovebox or the palm of your hand.

My SE 5 speed does have an LSD, there should be a sticker on the housing, at least mine has one.