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if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

Revisiting this for clarification, hindsight, and new wisdom: The inner collar on the RH shaft is for the oil seal installed at the differential. FSM says to not reuse the collar, but I see no compelling reason to not reuse it unless it is excessively worn where it makes contact with the seal. This oil seal is the primary seal, so if there's gear oil leaking on the RH side, this is the culprit. The outer collar on the shaft is for retaining the bearing. This collar MUST be destroyed off with a chisel or similar means in order to replace the bearing and/or seal. Don't attempt to press the collar off...you will destroy the "extension tube retainer" plate that the outer grease seal fits into. The bearing and collar are no longer available from Nissan, but aftermarket kits having part numbers with "RW114R" should include both a bearing and collar (the seal is separate). This seal also does not stop gear oil, it's just for greasing the shaft that rotates in the retainer plate. You can apply your flavor of RTV on things if you'd like.

Any suggestions for quality brake calipers/rotors? Brembo, akebono, and some others don't carry ones that fit. I'd like to get good ones, probably have to buy in units.

Was just exploring the forum to see if anyone had made a shelving unit in the trunk of any of these pathys and i stumbled across this post. Super unique and awesome build!

The FE section of the service manual has diagrams of the exhaust system, and where all the mounts are. There's one between the pipe before the cat (off a U bolt in the '90 manual, off the cat flange in the later manuals) and the transfer case, one at either end of the muffler, and one on the tailpipe behind the muffler. You can get the '90 manual from cardiagn.com, or at least that's where I got it. I had a similar rattle on mine. It worried me at first, because it only happened under certain load conditions, making me think a U joint or something was on its way out. I found it by rolling under the truck and just whacking the exhaust with my hand until I found something that rattled. IIRC it was that U bolt upstream of the cat that had worked itself loose. The nuts wouldn't move, and the only problem it was causing was the noise, so I tied it up with baling wire and called it good. Given the crossover pipe has been out recently on yours, I would look especially hard at the fasteners and heat shields on that guy.

I just had my transmission rebuilt. Now there is a rattle as a time during acceleration. I can almost narrow it down to the cross over pipe. Some say check the heat shields and others say check the exhaust pipe mounts. Where wold the mounts be located an how many? Not eh hangers, as I have been "instructed".

Damn! At least it's fixed, I guess. Hopefully it stays that way.

Hey thanks for the response. My dad and I couldn’t figure it out and took it to an electrical guy and he fixed it within a few hours. Said it was something behind the fuse box and I wasn’t there to pick it up so I have no clue. Cost me $300

Your CV will have two snap ring grooves: inner and outer. The Warn hubs used the outer groove. For this style, you put the snap ring on the inner groove, then install the hub.

Hey I got the same hubs recently and I’m super confused on how to install them. My warn hubs have a faceplate that pops off to give me access to the snap ring and the snap ring groove. This thing is all one solid hunk so I have no access to the snap ring grove! Do they actually come apart?

Thank you! haha. It's been a treat for sure. I was going to do a write up style post but didn't feel I had enough pictures to go with the information.

I love the sneaky bonnet hole! Cool conversion mate and thanks for sharing

Even if the dizzy is new it is common it goes out. My last one went because the little condenser on the side blew and wouldn't let enough voltage to the coil. I think no continuity or high resistance means it's bad or something like that. id have to check the old one. The fuel pump moves pretty slow so as for now assume its good if its flowing. If it doesn't change with the Maf unplug temp sensor and if that still won't work unplug the throttle. the NA VG33 ONLY requires MAF, Cam signal, Coolant temp, O2, and a throttle sensor to run properly. to a varying degree one of those can be non functional and it will still start no problem. every other sensor is OBD and emissions and doesn't affect tuning and engine performance. Unplug your primary O2 (post cats don't matter) and see how that runs. My bet is still the dizzy or its timing. it should idle even with both idles unplugged just not very well. EDIT: You won't even get a code for the dizzy if it's bad. I wasn't even getting misfire codes and the think could barely idle with out sounding like a Honda. sorry honda guys

Hello, First time posting here and just looking for some help with my 96 Pathfinder. The other day it randomly died at a stop light and turned back on right away, but continued to do that over an over again after a couple stops while driving. A bunch of lights came on the dash including A/T temp, oil, battery and brake light. Drove it the next day and did the same thing. This time I had a scanner plugged in and noticed the volts dropping from 14.5v to low 12's right before it would die. Later that day anytime I started it the car would run for a couple seconds and then die again. I thought it was the alternator so I bought new one and threw it in but the problem still occurs. I checked spark and fuel and they both seem to be fine(not 100% on the fuel though). Open the distributor cap and it seemed okay. Distributor is also pretty much brand new so I don't think there is anything wrong with it. Tried running it with MAF sensor unplugged but no luck. I'm guessing it some sort of air issue or maybe timing is off?? Just looking for advice on next troubleshooting ideas. Thank you for reading and any advice helps.

yah i did the SC swap on my SAS xterra and is been the best thing ive done. Really wanna get this R50 done that i have because the 35s are just killing it lol

EF&EC-88 of the '94 manual has the correct diagram. All that tells me is that the vehicle speed sensor is wired to the cluster, which is then wired to the computer, so an issue at the cluster would stop signal from reaching the computer. It says nothing about how it's wired inside the cluster, where the issue presumably is, if the speedo works and the odo does not. Annoyingly the description of the sensor (EF&EC-15) is copied from the square-dash manuals, and shows the older arrangement of a reed switch in a mechanical speedo, not an electronic speedo with a sensor in the transfer case. Guess they missed that when they updated from the square dash! Wonder how many people that's tripped up. I did notice the round-dash cluster from my parts car (which I was told had an inop odometer) had cracked solder joints where the little stepper motor for the mechanical odometer was connected up. By the time I noticed this, the parts truck was torn apart far enough that I couldn't test the resoldered cluster, so I can't be certain the cracked joints were the only problem. But yeah, if it acts up again, that's where I'd start looking. IIRC I had to tear it down all the way to the instrument itself to find the fault--it wasn't on the flexy board on the back. Bit fiddly to get the cluster apart, but doable. Be real careful with the clips, especially for the clear part.

I was going to do the same thing but decided for the work it's probably just worth doing the repin. I still get OBD which is nice I can use my blue driver as a second set of gauges for my coolant temp or on road trips to check codes. I drove it to dinner the other night about 40km away and it felt amazing. used half the fuel and I normally do and was a freight train up the hills. Cruise control was a blast to use with it too as it worked with 0 issues or adjustments. Still a couple things I gotta finish up but I've been driving it to work and am very happy. Not hammering on it too hard yet still trying to make sure it holds together but so far its solid

Hell yeah dude! Good to see you got it going.

well goo deallll. i wanted to make a jumper from harness to harness but depinning it may be the route. may have to start looking for some extra parts now lol

Not sure if my answer went through but I’ll try again lol exactly. If pin 1 was ignition signal then it moved to pin 1 in the X ecu. But pin 8 on the r50 is fuel pump so that moved to 11 on the X. I was able to sit with both pin out sheets and write each pin and what it converted to so it was easier to swap when it went in. This way it was a turn key upgrade which it would’ve been if I paid attention and didn’t mess up the fuel pump pin lol. 8 goes to 11 not back to 8 haha. 1 for like 100 isn’t bad but there wasn’t much to it really. Everything works no downsides once I started going it became fun but would I do it again? Absolutely the F not! That repinning sucks

so talk me through the ECU part. I know that the pigtails are different from the xterra ecu tgo the r50 one. What did you have to do exactly? unpin the entire plug and just re pin it to the xterra ecu pig tail?

First drive this morning into work with the KA. It is stronger everywhere except I would say low down torque. It sounds and goes way better overall. Very happy, I should have done this years ago!

Sorry, all, gotta bring this thread back to life! Just took my 94 out for a test drive and during the trip the CEL came on, got codes 11 (camshaft position sensor circuit) and 14 (vehicle speed sensor circuit). As for the VSS, the speedometer works fine, but not the "analog" odometer nor the digital trip odometer. As others have stated, the FSM isn't too helpful in troubleshooting or diagnosing this area. Am I looking at a bad cluster? Anybody got tips on what to test? Thanks! *** Edit: Errr, sorry about that, please disregard (for now!). Just took it for another spin and now both odometers work. Now, I did reset the trip odometers this time (they were already showing "0.0"), not sure if that made a difference or not, but I shoulda at least tried that the first go-round!

Good day everyone, one morning I was on market place and found a VG33ER forsale for a decent price and for a and was a good few hours drive but I picked it up with no prior intention of swapping my pathfinder. The swap is pretty straightforward along as you have all the parts from an ER to swap. It is also 02 Xterra ECU swapped on the original body and engine harness. The pulley is swapped now as of writing to the 4x4parts 2.4 quick change pulley on the stock SCB cut off. It makes a significantly more amount of power than before and is absolutely worth it if you can afford the premium gas. ALTHOUGH, it seems the MPG has been improved since the swap at least at partial throttle which is pretty cool. It's also running factoy R50 airbox with all original sensors. Here's what was swapped Lower intake Injectors Fuel rails (minor differences) Supercharger Spark plugs Spark plug wires Thermostat 180 to 170 AC tensioner only NOT alternator Belts Crank pulley Water and ps pulley NOT alt ECU and plug Pas side valve cover (only for PCV valve) To swap the ECU most of the pins are in the same locations how ever not all. you WILL have to solder a larger pin on the orange IACV wire and to make the SCB safety work you can reuse and replumb the map/baro switch as the SCB and it works the same. All valves, sensors and anything else are original 97 pathfinder. You will have to run different length belts for all 3 now that the V belt is deleted, the crank and water pump are different size and the super charger belt needs to be a 5 rib and shorter unless you swap the AC comp. Cruise even works too! It drives incredible and I could not be more happy with the result. before the pulley it feels like a more peppy VQ but after the pulley it pulls harder than one for sure. When I dump the clutch I'm always first off the line even to the diesel guys that book it off the light (i'm looking at you Dodge owners) and it seems to run cooler than my friends bone stock X since mine has a hole in the hood and gets good cooling. Thanks. Donor engine in back of my r50 On floor after getting it home repinning the ECU plugs Cleaning Radiator shows up Installing charger and intake *borart voice* VERY NICEEE

Round down it shall be!