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2001 is an R50. The WD21 ended in '95 in the US. The question is whether you've got the VG33 (3.3l) or VQ35 (3.5l). Looks like there are two switches on the brake pedal. One for the brake lights, one for the cruise control (which Nissan calls ASCD for some reason). If the R50 pedal assembly is built like the WD21, there's a little rubber plug that bumps against the end of the switch, until it cracks and falls out, and causes the switch to think the brakes are always pressed. Check for that before assuming it's the switch. There's a troubleshooting section for the cruise control in the EL section of the service manual, which you can download for free from Nicoclub. There's an '01 and an '01.5 manual, depending on whether you've got a VG or a VQ. Cutting the wires at the pumps will not do what you want it to. The front pump is ground-switched (one side of the motor gets fused power, the other side runs through the switch, then to ground), so grounding it at the pump would cause it to run constantly. The two pumps do not share a fuse with each other, though they do share fuses with their respective wiper motors--so if the wipers work, then you know the fuses are OK. If the front wipers work, then you know the ground points for the pumps are OK, because those circuits share the same two ground points. I would check the pumps first. Unplug them, see if the plugs are corroded, see you've got power and ground at the plugs (while someone holds the washer button). Power the pumps directly with jumpers or a drill battery to see if they go. I would not be surprised if the pumps were seized up, especially if the truck sat for a while (or if the previous owner just didn't use them). "Wiper and washer" (also in the EL section) has the circuit diagrams for the pumps and wipers. Those diagrams and a voltmeter should be enough to track down where the problem is.

Never fun when it goes back together and still doesn't work. I'm guessing you've got a cracked coolant line or a loose block drain or something up above the pan, and it's running down. I don't know the VQ, so I don't know what the most likely culprit would be, but I'd start the search with anything coolant-related that you've touched recently, that's above where you're seeing the drips. Clean/dry the area if you're having a hard time seeing what's new and what isn't. But if it's a steady drip, it should show itself pretty quick, unless it's right proper buried. The no-start and clicking really does sound like the battery to me. If it's resting at 11.5, then it's right proper flat. Are you sure the other battery is good? A clapped battery can show good voltage, but fall on its face when loaded. Do you have a jumper pack, or another vehicle that you can jump it from? While you're in there, make sure your terminals are tight and clean, and check that you didn't remove an engine ground and forget to put it back on.

The '90 manual is a free download from cardiagn.com. Most of it is the same as the '94/'95 manual on Nico, but there are enough stupid little differences to bother getting the right one.

That post is nearly a decade old..

Well that's easy, then!

Yes, please show some pics.

1st problem is both Windshield Washer Pumps don't work. Fuse is good. My mechanic friend thinks they may have a common ground so I'm wondering if I can cut the ground wires near the pump and connect them to a ground that way. 2nd problem, I can turn the cruise control on but it won't set. It worked fine last week. The brake lights don't stay on so is there another switch on the brake pedal for the cruise control? If it's the same switch that turns on the brake lights then what other problem could it be? And one more thing, I'm not sure if it's a WD21 or R50, can't tell by looking at the VIN number and don't see anything on the label inside drivers door.

Some guy on the NICO forum said they were actually just standard M6-1.0 bolts, and he ended up being right; turns out, I had 8 of them in my toolbox this entire time and just didn't know what they were until someone told me I was looking for the wrong thing. For any future-people who're finding this post having the same strange issue as me, the concrete answer is M6-1.0x30mm with 10mm heads. Technically, you could probably get away with something slightly different, like ones with 6mm heads, but on something like valve cover bolts, it's best to match the original as closely as possible to avoid any issues (ex. clamping force being ever so slightly different with a different diameter bolt). It was actually somewhat difficult to track all of these bolts down. I ended up using AutoZone NeedaPart bolts, not the best in the world, but a hell of a lot better than the "mostly correct" Menards and Home Depot offerings. Home Depot was out of them, Menards only had ones with 6mm heads, even Fastenal doesn't stock them. Turns out, M6-1.0x30mm with a 10mm head is actually really rare. No wonder Nissan stopped making them, this must be the only thing they ever got used for.

I have a working wiper out of my 1994, I could ship it to you.

The wiper switch is 3 stage - left is on, center (presumably) is Off and right is washer fluid. I'm at center position. I don't have the FSM you're referring to, so I appreciate the wiring suggestions @Slartibartfast. I'll start the wiring chase

Update: I decided it'd be better not to have this looming over my head while I'm trying to sleep, so I undid the oil pan bolt and the oil was clean the whole way down. The oil pan is completely empty, with the bolt removed, and 5qts of the most lightly used oil ever sitting in a jug in my garage, and the coolant is still dripping from the oil pan the same way it was before. This is not the oil pan gasket leaking coolant that's somehow defying physics by sitting on top of the oil. So, wherever this coolant is coming from, it doesn't seem to be the worst-case-scenario. Tomorrow, I'm gonna try the other troubleshooting steps I mentioned; making sure it's not the security system, replacing the crankshaft position sensor, and putting a few gallons of 91 in it to dilute the fuel. Once again, if anyone else has ideas, especially about where the hell this coolant is coming from (this seems like a mighty large leak if I can watch it drip in real-time like this), then that'd really make my day a whole lot easier. Thank you. I love that you can tell my moods from these images lol

Please for the love of God let someone know what's going on here I just finished doing valve cover gaskets, getting new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new radiator, suspension rebuild, I really treated her right. I even turned the crankshaft by hand before trying to start it. I go to start her up, she'll crank for a moment like she has a low battery, then suddenly start clicking. When I check the battery voltage, it's around 11.5v. I tried again with a battery that was around 12.5, and it cranks longer, but still goes into the clicking thing. The fuel gauge drops to the minimum whenever I'm cranking, then goes back to a quarter tank. Mind you, that quarter tank is probably half a year old, and it wasn't very high quality gas to begin with. All the lights flash as you'd expect from a dead battery, but once again, battery isn't dead. My initial thoughts were either a security lockout, since I plugged the battery in with the key in the ignition, or the crankshaft position sensor, since I had a code for that and I had the replacement lying around but hadn't actually installed it yet. When I crawled under to double check where the crankshaft position sensor is, because I had an existing code for that, I noticed there was something dripping from the oil pan. I thought "Oh, guess the valve covers weren't the only leak", but to my shock, it was coolant dripping from the oil pan, not oil. I immediately grabbed a wrench and undid the oil pan bolt, only to find nice, clean oil. Which unfortunately doesn't ease my mind much, since the coolant is also completely clean and fresh looking, so that doesn't exactly sate the part of my brain that worries there's a layer of coolant just sitting on top of the oil in the pan. But why would that literally ever be the case? Every time I've seen oil and coolant separated in the oil pan, the coolant is the bottom layer. Dipstick is just clean oil, too. The car hasn't even actually started yet. How could cranking it for a couple minutes tops possibly dump coolant into the oil pan? Why would it be so clean and not milkshaked at all if the motor spun while it was cranking? Is it a cracked block, or is the coolant coming from somewhere else, like the heater core hoses or something, and it's just dripping in the scariest possible place? This thing was completely fine when I parked it, I parked it over a wheel bearing and decided to give it the full treatment before putting it back in service. What could possibly be causing this problem? I have my own list of troubleshooting steps I'm gonna go through. I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drain all that fresh oil out to see if there's a layer of coolant on top, or, y'know, if coolant settles to the bottom of the pan overnight. If it's not the absolute disaster my brain won't stop circling around, then I'll install a new crankshaft position sensor and go grab some 91 non-ethanol gas to dilute the stale gas with. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes, make sure the truck is closed and locked up, then reconnect the battery and unlock it with the key to minimize the chance of a security lockout After that, uhhhhh kind of out of ideas other than "Time to start tearing it apart and looking for anything that might be keeping it from starting". Yes, I probably should have done those things before posting, but I've been working for like 12 straight hours just to get to the finish line and have a panic attack. I just spent my last like 4 paychecks on this thing and was really relying on it during a move. If it's the worst case scenario, I have absolutely no idea what I'm gonna do. So, if anyone has any ideas other than what's already been listed, reassurance that I'm on the right track, or ESPECIALLY if anyone knows where the hell that coolant could possibly be coming from, please let me know. Thanks for reading my memoir. Here's some pics of the coolant dripping and the clean oil. Yes, I'm aware the oil pan should be replaced because of the rust, but I mean, c'mon, that's not gonna magically make coolant appear.

If anyone from SoCal area is still active. I am on the search for my one-of-a-kind tire cover. I had the logo made by a local printing place and it was stolen from me not long ago. I put a post on local FB groups but no luck in finding it. If anyone in SoCal sees it I'd love to get it back. I can't offer much but I would be willing to give the 2nd print made of this decal to whoever finds it. Thanks for reading.

Is the wiper switch on? That also locks out the popper. If there's nothing obvious, check at the actuator, see if it's missing power, or if it's missing ground, to see which side of the circuit needs chasing. If it's missing power, verify +12v on the light green wire at the switch, verify that the switch works, verify light green/red at the wiper switch has power when the switch is pressed, verify power's getting through the wiper switch to green, and so on, back to the actuator. If it's missing ground, there's much less on that side of the circuit. Just the wiper motor interlock and a couple of body grounds. The whole diagram's on BF-11 of the '90 manual, have a look at that as you're going through it so you can see what connects where.

Interesting that the wiper arm needs to be all the way down/home and seated in the bracket before that switch will work. My wiper is definitely not down. I tried jumping the green/white and black wires at the wiper motor plug, but still a no go on the popper.

Oddly the rear window hatch popper isn't on a fuse, it's on a circuit breaker. It shares that breaker with the ignition relay, so if that was out, you'd have bigger issues. The wiper motor has to be present (and in the correct position) for the hatch popper to work. There's a switch in the wiper motor that prevents you from opening the window when the wiper is in the way. It seems to only hit that switch every other swipe for some reason, so just because the wiper is down doesn't mean it's "home." I've run into this a few times on mine (the wiper's down but the glass won't pop), and I've learned to turn off the wiper, let if find "home," and then turn off the ignition. Of course that doesn't help you now. The wiring diagram for the hatch popper is in the BF section, for some reason. Looks like you could just jumper from green/white to black at the wiper motor plug to bypass the wiper position switch.

OK, I unplugged the rear wiper motor and now the power rearview mirrors work, so that's the problem. I will decide if I am going to hunt down a new motor at the local junkyard. Next problem - the rear/trunk hatch window popper does work, doesn't seem to have power. Is that on another fuse? I don't see one in the fuse box. Wiring all looks OK. Any ideas on that? Thanks

Sorry - same fuse. It's the 10a, 2 spots from the left. It's labeled as both RR wiper and mirrors. Il pulled the rear hatch molding and all wiring looks OK. I will try drivers side cargo area trim now, thx for that tip. The previous owner definitely messed with the trailer hitch area, so I'll inspect there as well. Thx

I got a sethoscope today and seems to really be coming from this area- Im not sure whats behind here

I'm a little confused on which fuse you're popping. One pops after three seconds, the other pops when the wiper returns? Or is it the same fuse? Looks like the rear wiper fuse should be second from the left, top row. EL-69 of the '90 manual shows the rear wiper wiring. ('95 had the switch on the stalk, so the '95 diagram is different.) You've already checked the first thing I'd check. At this point I'd pull the driver's side cargo area trim panel and see if there's anything obviously wrong with the wiring, the wiper amp, or the relay, and pull the trim on the hatch and check the wiring for the motor and its switches. Could be the hatch switch for the dome light was acting up as they do and someone cut the wrong wire, or maybe someone got really lost while installing a trailer harness. If nothing jumps out, I'd unplug the motor and see if it still pops the fuse.

Sounds like a conrod planning a vacation. The VQ is known for burning oil, so yeah, check the oil level first. Hopefully it's not that. If it's got oil, and the oil pressure light isn't on, check the aircon pump. Aircon off, blower off, see if the awful noise suddenly stops.

EFS https://www.directsuspensions.com.au/products/efs-40mm-lift-kit-for-nissan-pathfinder-r50-11-1995-06-2005 this will give 40 mm above oem height West Coast Suspensions https://www.directsuspensions.com.au/products/west-coast-suspensions-2in-lift-kit-for-nissan-pathfinder-r50-11-1995-06-2005 this will either give 50 mm or 40 mm above OEM height Bilstein plus Lovells coils https://www.superspares.com.au/nissan-pathfinder-r50-98-04-bilstein-shock-lovells?gQT=2 50 mm above oem height You have several options for suspension upgrades for the R50 Pathfinder, including brands like Kings, Dobinsons, KYB, Tough Dog, and Iron Man (although Iron Man only offers coils). The website https://www.superspares.com.au/steering-suspension/suspension/ has a good selection of suspension parts. Just enter your registration number and the state you live in, and it will show you compatible options for your Pathfinder. I'm planning to go with EFS Elite, which will lift my vehicle 40mm above the OEM height. This shop will assemble the front coil and strut for a small fee, making it easy to just remove the old parts and install the new ones. However, we all know that working on Pathfinders is rarely that straightforward!

Figures it's different from US spec. I looked up the wiring for a WD21, which has solid-color wires, but naturally not the same solid colors. Good to hear you figured it out in the end. And yes, not surprising that the trans computer ain't happy with something else controlling the gearbox.

I put a new fuse in and the rear wiper cycled on its own when i turned key on, then fuse blew 5 secs later. The rearview mirrors are on same circuit I just bought more fuses for testing

Check the wiring from the truck body to the tailgate if you haven't. It is kind of common where the door opens and closes for the wires to break and possibly short. Or your wiper motor itself could have a short. I forget what else is on that circuit at the moment but you'll have to check all of them. Does the fuse blow even if you don't try to use the wiper or mirrors?