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  2. The only movement at 12 and 6 o'clock is pointing to mounting issue for me, if it were a wheel bearing you would have wobble all the way around the clock. Best way to check the ball joints (in my experience) is: jack her up, and put on stands. Take wheel off Remove hub (freewheeling or factory lock hub) Remove CV circlip Undo and remove the 2x strut bolts that attach the hub to the strut base Slip CV drive shaft out of hub Now once that is done only the outer tie rod and ball joint are the only things attaching the hub to the vehicle, wobble and wriggle hub around, you will pretty soon know if the ball joint is buggered, there will be excessive play and slop. If it is tight and no lateral or medial movement or slop, it is all good. You may be able to jack it up and wobble/pry around the ball joint with weight off the strut assy and lower control arm, but the tension from the strut assy may still hold pressure against the ball joint. Lower control arm bushes could also be culprit, check those too. Like I said this is just from my experience and how I would tackle the job, and is how I checked my ball joints while changing my struts and CV's. Hope this helps.
  3. No worries, hopefully those work. Good luck with the old studs. When I get around to mine I'm hoping I can get the welder in there and do it the easy way.
  4. So I made a post back in early winter trying to understand what was going on with my hub assembly and why I had play, which bearings I should safely go with. I ended up replacing my wheel bearings and hub races (and also rotors and pads at that). Unfortunately since doing so I've been having to over-torque past spec the preload nut to take up excess play pretty much exclusively at 12 and 6 o'clock on both front wheels. Well its still not gone so now inevitably this begs the question is it actually my ball joints causing play and not the bearings because it only really shows up at 12 and 6 o'clock on the wheels. The other issue is that even after replacing the rotors, pads, and rear brake drum assembly including the physical drums, I still get brake pulsation and shimmy. The even weirder part is it goes away and comes back. There will be drives where I get next to no pulsation and dare I say the braking feels good, and other times where I want to ditch the car off a cliff because its so annoying and jarring. Now in my eyes there are 2 possibilities: 1 - The wheel bearings or races are bad again and require excessive torque to seat them correctly. The play only shows up at 12 and 6 o'clock because the races are warped or the inner hub walls are warped and are not perfectly concentric to the axle (I know, definitely a rare case). Obviously a loose wheel bearing causes brake pulsation because of the play allowed in the wheel; 2 - Instead, the ball joint is bad causing the wheel play at 12 and 6 o'clock, meanwhile my front calipers are sticking, causing the intermittent grabbing I feel which then causes the brake pulsation. Either the caliper slide pins (which have plenty of fresh new grease) aren't doing their job, or the pistons are moving too slow and don't want to re-tract causing grabbing. I say this because a bad ball joint alone would not cause brake pulsation. Also with the pulsation randomly becoming better and randomly becoming worse, it has to be either an alignment issue (i.e. axle to hub interface) or the brake caliper assembly in some way. Currently, my best direction is to isolate the play issue and find whether the play is coming from the ball joints or bearings for both front wheels. Tie rods are perfect I do know that, and most people know the R50s only have 1 ball-joint, the lowers. Struts were replaced this past winter with new upper assembly parts so that's running perfect. Control arms are original along with the bushings so probably need replacing but doesn't seem dire. Everything I replace or take apart I always retorque to spec, that is of course besides the bearing preload (but still not at all much more than recommended spec). My main question starts with the issue of isolating the problem. In theory, if the wheel bearings are the culprit for play, wouldn't the play be removed if someone steps on the brake pedal. In other words, if I have someone step on the brake pedal and I try to induce play into the wheel, if its gone, the wheel bearings or hub/axle interface is the issue; if the play continues at 12 and 6 o'clock even when the brake pedal is applied, its more than likely the ball joint. I guess its also possible to be the control arm bushings but less likely. If someone could confirm this is a viable way of isolating the issue I would be very thankful. My thinking is that since the caliper is technically attached to the suspension control arm assembly, when applied it should hold the hub assembly still so that any post-play means it has to be suspension induced. Which you can then deduce to be ball joint because the play is at 12 and 6 o'clock. Finally I should mention the ball joints visibly look fine. Very very minor boot cracking but so minor I had to get my face right on it to even see the cracks. Let me know if I'm super far off in my logic, thanks.
  5. Thanks for the info@Slartibartfast! I ended up getting these right from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N735HZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NVAJ428AD0X620V8QCTZ From everything I could tell they'll work out just fine after I cut down the side that threads into the block a bit. Now it's just the issue of extracting the broken studs. Have some screw extractors that will hopefully do the trick without being too much of pain in the ass. Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk
  6. Some do. Sometimes there's an access panel under the back seat, my dad's Audi is like that (it makes up for it with a massive fuel sending unit that barely fits through the hole and some of the most fiddly connectors I've ever worked with). The WD21 pump access door is a little more fiddly than it could be due to the stupid plastic fasteners holding the rear trim (and the carpet) down, and the stupid Phillips bolts holding the cargo hooks (and, again, the carpet) down. Once those are out, though, four 10mm bolts and you've got access to the pump.
  7. I bought a set of studs and nuts from the Acadiana Sports Car Orphanage a while back. I think they were for a 300zx, same size as WD21 but supposedly better steel. PN BK056-0030. Looks like their website is currently down, though, so I'm not sure that helps you any. I haven't gotten around to installing them, so I can't comment on their fitment, but I can tell you that they've got 19mm of thread on the head side, 11 mm of shoulder, then another 19mm of thread on the manifold side, and then a little hex head on the end of that for installation. The thread is M8x1.25.
  8. Hey my name is Dennis , living in brampton ontario look to start off roading with my father in our 2008 Nissan Pathfinder, I've been having alot of troubles in revards to find a roof rack ladder, such as the Gobi Shockwave for the Xterra, buf for the 08 Pathfinder SE. I did read a thread about this but couldnt seem to find any solution for it, It'd be great of someone could give me some help. Thanks.
  9. Wow, we can get to our fuel pump without dropping the tank? I have had to help cut out a window to get to fuel pumps before.
  10. I think I have a few of em too from yard runs. Sadly no wd21s in the yards here for quite some time.
  11. Last week
  12. Interesting! I never would have guessed that was its purpose Still, with the full size spare already blocking my back glass, dust doesn’t matter a whole lot haha
  13. The primary purpose of that wind deflector is to blow air over your rear hatch glass to help keep it clear of dust. When I only ran load bars it was really quite effective. Not so much now. Admittedly, mine was mistakenly installed upside down in this pic. That’s what I get for doing a late night reinstall.
  14. Stopped by hawairish’s place today to make some custom rotopax mounting plates. As always, they turned out perfect. A big thanks to him. Sent from my Pathfinder
  15. Changed the oil. Castrol 5w30 and a random fram filter I found in the garage. Found my exhaust leak, the drivers side pipe to the y pipe, gasket/flange is blown out at the bottom. I have doug thorley headers in the closet for 3 years. So I will weld the flanges shut on these old pipes so I don't die of asphyxiation in the mean time.
  16. Just an update in case anyone is helped by this. I ended up having 2 bad fuel injectors. So I replaced them all with Hitachi injectors and all is great now. I also ended up doing the upper plenum coolant delete. The engine runs awesome now.
  17. Quick update. I ended up ordering a complete rear axle from a 2001 Xterra 4WD with an LSD Diff. and 4.63 gears and 98K miles on it. I removed the third member and swapped it out with my open diff. It was a bit of a job, especially removing and replacing the third members as they are quite heavy. Thankfully I had 2 other sets of hands to help. So far it seems to work great. I haven't really had a chance to test it thoroughly but I plan to soon. Thanks again for all the input!
  18. Out with the old, in with the new... Front sway bar bushes started banging during my shakedown run, simple 8 bolt job is now turning into a 2 night ordeal, found two stripped bolts, and suspect threads, getting a tap from work, and a couple of new bolts fix it properly. Ahh the fun of cars and how the simplest job is one broken bolt away from a nightmare.
  19. I'll get one tomorrow. My odo reads exactly what you want hahaha.
  20. 1) High range (2HI/4HI) stays the same (1:1). Low range gears only change low range. 2) I'm not sure I understand what whoever told you that was talking about (and I'm not sure they did, either). With a TX10a, in low range, the front and rear driveshafts are locked together by the chain, so one cannot spin faster or slower than the other, regardless of the gear ratio.
  21. Quick update: problem has not been resolved, but last night the temperature dropped and my pressure stayed at 60 till I got a block away then it was sitting at 50 idle. Once I got to school if I held it at 2K it was sitting at about 50-55 and 20 PSI idle and I can hear the slight tapping noise not nearly as noticeable. Like I had to really be listening for it. And I could only hear it holding at 2K and not at idle. Even hot there is no noise idle, just my valve train click
  22. Hi 1) Id like a set of the TX10 gears. Does 4 high remains the same ratio (4 low is affected)? 2) Someone once told me that it is bad to run modified TX10 gears without changing pinion-ring gears, because all the torque is not distributed equally throughout the drivetrain. Can one safely switch from the stock 2.0:1 TX10 ratio, to the 3.9:1 ratio, while still running standard 4.375 pinion gears? Thanks ---9heart
  23. I'm looking at an oem clutch kit and it shows the outer dimensions as 9 3/4". All the kits on rock auto show 9 7/8". What's going on here? Thanks for your insights into this, I don't have experience working on clutches.
  24. Does anyone have a nice set of headlights for a 2008 LE? Mine have fogged bad and I have tried to recover them but they just keep fogging. Any tips or does anyone have any for sale? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Not new to 4x4 but new to the Pathfinder, now i get to correct the last owners mistakes. So here to learn. 1988 SE
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