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  1. Today
  2. I appreciate the suggestion, I have one set already I used to wire some lights to the stock fog light harness. I checked online and some places through my work, but the connector is pretty darn uncommon from what little I've seen. Autozone "makes it, but one is 34$. I broke the original fog lights years ago and saved the wiring knowing I would do something with it eventually, Im hoping maybe someone will have done something similar. I'm not in a big hurry, but I do wanna continue to use to stock wiring. It's already there. https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fog-light-connector/p/duralast-electrical-wire-connector-275/
  3. Hey all, New member here. Got my 98 SE 4x4 last fall with about 98k miles single owner. Drove one in college in the late 90s and loved it. Was in the market for an inexpensive project vehicle that I could learn some auto mechanics on and turn into a capable 4x4 for some outdoor activities. Since I've been able to get the engine in good shape by changing belts, fluids, seals, water pump, as well as upgraded the suspension with an KYB/OME lift. I was also able to cash in on the strut tower rust recall. This website has been a treasure of info and am glad registration is back up. Looking forward to participating and keeping this place going.
  4. I successfully changed my first timing belt/water pump/drive belts/cam and crank shaft seals thanks in large part to the info here. I'll share some tips from it here that I put on the npora facebook group a few weeks ago: My first timing belt replacement is done. Pathy runs smoothly. Replaced timing belt, water pump, cam and crankshaft seals, coolant hoses, and drive belts. Here are a few tips for anyone who tries this in the future... The 1A auto YouTube tutorial on R50s is superb. Following it will set you right - https://youtu.be/awjqoFUUPSo?si=6Avjp9Q6ivaIk-UO the Nissan repair manual is good to have as well. (get it on the NICO Club forum) Use the OEM crankshaft seal. I went through 3 seals because the inner lip would get caught on the shaft and fold under. The Nissan seal was built better (and pre-lubed) The harmonic balance puller is fantastic for pulling the crank pulley right off. I bought a kit for like 20 bucks on Amazon (you can also get a loaner from the autoparts store), and got the bolts for it at the hardware store (m6 x 1.0 x 75mm - same size as the long upper left bolt in the lower timing cover) An impact wrench is key. Used it for getting off/on the crankshaft bolt and the cam bolts without turning the shafts. I also used a camshaft holder tool once the belt was off. I debated on whether to remove the air compressor like the video suggests or try to jimmy the timing cover off around it. I was able to get the timing cover off with some work, but getting it on was tougher, and scary (I didn't want to break my A/C or mess with my timing bel. Moving the compressor was easier than I thought. The power steering tensioner bolt was a PITA because of where it was located. a 12mm ratcheting wrench would've been nice Tighten your belts. The first time I turned on the engine it was like the loudest chalkboard screech I've ever heard. Finally, there's a right-angle coolant hose that sits behind the timing belt cover that's a PITA to get off/on. I ended up having success using a chisel to pry it on. Make sure the clamp tabs aren't facing out when you put the timing cover back on, or it can bend the cover, possibly interfering with the belt. I of course read this in the repair manual after the cover and cam sprockets were back on.
  5. Hey all, New member here. Got my 98 SE 4x4 last fall with about 98k miles single owner. Drove one in college in the late 90s and loved it. Was in the market for an inexpensive project vehicle that I could learn some auto mechanics on and turn into a capable 4x4 for some outdoor activities. Since I've been able to get the engine in good shape by changing belts, fluids, seals, water pump, as well as upgraded the suspension with an KYB/OME lift. I was also able to cash in on the strut tower rust recall. This website has been a treasure of info and am glad registration is back up. Looking forward to participating and keeping this place going.
  6. Hey guys I have a 1997 r50 and my tires are getting bald and i want to upgrade my tires without changing my rims and getting a lift. I was first wanting to put some falkons on it but realized that they don't make them in 265 70 15. Anyways i have been struggling to find tires that check all my boxes. I was interested in the general grabbers but i heard they have bad road noise and ware out quick. I also preferably want a tire that is good in snow, rain and mud. If you guys have any ideas please let me now!
  7. Hey guys I have a 1997 r50 and my tires are getting bald and i want to upgrade my tires without changing my rims and getting a lift. I was first wanting to put some falkons on it but realized that they don't make them in 265 70 15. Anyways i have been struggling to find tires that check all my boxes. I was interested in the general grabbers but i heard they have bad road noise and ware out quick. I also preferably want a tire that is good in snow, rain and mud. If you guys have any ideas please let me now!

     

  8. Mine "shudders" in really tight turns going slow when the manual hubs are locked, in unlocked mode it doesn't do that.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Steering stop noise doesn't apply to the r50, that's a wd21/22 thing.
  11. Thanks for the tips. The more I think of it the more I recall previous instances of that humming when turning which then I attributed to tire noise or road imperfections, but it's clearly something else. The rear drums do stick a bit, especially when cold, so that's my prime suspect. I recently took the front brakes apart to do some cleaning and maintenance so I'm fairly sure those are fine. I did notice that the pads are missing the squeal shims, never installed by the PO. I've read about the steering stops but people who report that describe a different noise, more of a metal-on-metal grinding instead of my low-pitched "hum-hum-hum". My fear is something that's not properly lubricated in the 4WD system or a center diff lock that's not fully disengaging (if that makes any sense at all). That would explain both the occasional noise and the hopping. I'll triple check fluids yet again but I worry this is one of those things that will have to get worse to really be able to tell exactly what's going on.
  12. Hey guys I just picked up a 2002 QX4 with sunroof, two tone, no heated seats or steering wheel, and I don’t think it has a LSD Other than a blower motor I did once upon a long time ago, this is my first experience with a R50! Im excited. Not much experience with Japanese autos. Mostly German. excited to drive my Pathfinder/QX4 to work, with my very young son, to the recycling dump, and whatever else. Will try to keep it in the family for as long as I can. Hopefully, Lord willing, not too many hiccups along the way! I found the forum while looking for creature comfort mods. What is everyone doing for infotainment?
  13. Hey guys I just picked up a 2002 QX4 with sunroof, two tone, no heated seats or steering wheel, and I don’t think it has a LSD Other than a blower motor I did once upon a long time ago, this is my first experience with a R50! Im excited. Not much experience with Japanese autos. Mostly German. excited to drive my Pathfinder/QX4 to work, with my very young son, to the recycling dump, and whatever else. Will try to keep it in the family for as long as I can. Hopefully, Lord willing, not too many hiccups along the way! I found the forum while looking for creature comfort mods. What is everyone doing for infotainment?
  14. A steering coupler alone being polyurethane would not transfer that much vibration to the cab. You're probably thinking of the engine mounts. I've seen those cause a lot of vibration on an old S10 I used to have. That was something else
  15. I wouldn't go poly, it transfers so much vibration to the cab which is annoying in a truck that isn't a performance car. But it's your ride. I got the rag joint assembly for my Xterra from some wrecking yard in California, they shipped it up to me. Nissan only wreckers is what was called IIRC.
  16. Do you have a picture of them? Might be able to get it from one of those large electrical suppliers like digi-key. They are probably a somewhat common weatherpak connector. Just doing some checking, you can probably match it up at the parts store if no one has any laying around: https://www.amazon.com/Pathfinder-1987-1995-Foglight-Assembly-NI2592113/dp/B074QGQ8JZ
  17. That's a huge improvement. Kind of crazy how sagged the springs can get over time. I just replaced all 4 corners in my Golf and it lifted the car by nearly 3 inches... Noticeably easier to enter/exit the car now.
  18. I finally got around to swapping the springs over from the partsfinder. I didn't get as much lift as I expected from them, but they did turn a slight squat into a slight rake, so, that's something. They'll do for now. The hatch corners are now 6'8" off the ground.
  19. Grab the shaft below the coupler with vise grips, have someone work the wheel back and forth (with about the same torque they would if they were driving), and see if the coupler flexes. That'll tell you right quick if the coupler is bad.
  20. Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if the original coupler is plenty soft being 31 years old. Of course Nissan doesn't show a replacement part by itself and I have seen the Lares coupler. I did a simple look on the Lares and it seems to be a decent one for what it's worth. Compared to others I can't speak much. As for a Polyurethane Coupler I can promise can feel much better especially when it's the correct composition. That is the key thing with Polyurethane.
  21. I can't find Nissan's part number for an OE one. The diagram only shows it as part of the column assembly. The only options I'm seeing are the aluminum one, some sketchy cheap crap on Alibaba, and the Lares 210. This listing for the Lares shows it cross-refs to four-banger HBs and first-gen X/Fronty, but given none of those have a thriving track day bro market either, I'm guessing you're SOL on finding a poly version. I'm not sure a poly rag joint would feel any different. The stock rubber joint in mine is plenty stiff. There's more play in the steering than I'd like, but that's not where it is.
  22. Wanted: Fog light connectors for the WD21. Anyone have the male end (attached to the fog light) in good shape off the factory Bosch foglights for the WD21 they'd let go? New ones are like 20-30$ a connector. I'd like to wire some non factory lights into the factory harness and if anyone has some in good shape I'd be interested in purchasing them. I only need the connector that comes off the factory foglight, I don't need the factory foglights themselves, or the harness that goes in the car.
  23. RE the noise, my first thought is the power steering pump, which is loaded when it's up against its stops. Could also explain why it calmed down once the fluid warmed up. Wouldn't explain the wheel speed connection, though, unless it's just the higher engine speed spinning the pump faster. Wouldn't hurt to check fluid level and condition. Steering angle shouldn't be changing the load on the wheel bearing by enough to matter, not at those speeds. I would be looking for CV axle binding issues (unlikely if the truck isn't lifted) or tire clearance issues before suspecting the bearings. Might also take a look at your steering stops. I don't know how the R50 does its steering stops, but mine are metal on metal (they used to have plastic caps, but those are long gone) and now and then it'll creak like a haunted house at full lock. I just gob a little grease on them whenever I'm under there. I wouldn't expect the leverage to play into the hop, but I guess the harder coils might be changing how the system resonates? Control arm angles from the lift might be factoring into it too. Or even the tires, assuming you're running different tires with the new wheels. Maybe some combination of the compound/tread pattern/sidewall stiffness just doesn't hop like the other tires did?
  24. Hi. I'm new hear so hopefully I'm doin this right. Anyway iv almost have completed my suspension on my 2006 pathfinder LE 4x4..my question is do I need to worry about putting stress on my CV axels when I install my 2inch strut and rear spring spacers..I have the Rancho 9000xl quick lift ajustable frunt struts and rear shocks that gave me a little bit of lift but I'm looking to do 2ich lift to achieve the look Im wanting i also have replaced upper and lower control arms with i think ksp with ajustable balljoint for the upper Aarms plus almost all suspension replaced. Can anybody help me with my question. Will I need a drop down or whatever it's called for my cv axels I'm think I may put stress on them or not . Any advice will be helpful
  25. Last week
  26. The rear drum brakes do rub ever so slightly, but I'll only ever hear it if i'm sticking my head out the window and really trying to listen. You'll always have slight shoe/pad rub and it will make a faint scrubbing noise that you otherwise should not hear INSIDE while driving. If you have an LSD in your pathy then that would help explain for the wheel hop/kicking when turning full lock. LSD's can cause wheel slip if they're too tight or the conditions are just right, but even on my open diff pathy I've felt this before. If you have no vertical, horizontal play or binding in your bearings theres a good chance theyre probably good. Paranoia can lead you to thinking the worst but at the end of the day its all mechanics, and even my elbow at 20 makes some grinding sometimes lol My theory behind this is the wider stance gives it more "leverage" to keep the wheel down and planted on the ground. But since doing the lift I've realized the AC 2" coils are stiff af. With having less front corner dive around corners it wants to keep that weight over that opposite wheel, my pathy feels like a race car around some corners even with the lift. I'm also not as wide as most R50 though only running a -6 offset no spacer.
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