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  1. Yesterday
  2. I'm really looking for a good used 1995 nissan pathfinder se for part's and hope the frame is really good shape
  3. If I remember correctly, I don’t think they marked them up to insanely, in comparison to some places. I shopped.
  4. Totally understandable, but sometimes the price is a bit steep compared to the Manufacturer price. I understand markup and all, but we all get hesitant from time to time
  5. 24-184908 are the rears. -4600 series. I’ll have to remember the fronts. I actually have Gabriel’s on the front for now because as you can see in the link that front shocks ship next month. Bilstein has had a super shortage on the front shocks for some reason. 4x4parts is always hesitant to give you part numbers because they want you buy with them.
  6. I had a feeling it was that. Unfortunately they don't have the part numbers for the shocks themselves. If you have a way of finding out that would be great
  7. Yeah I and I don’t have “problems necessarily they are just heavy duty and ride a little stiff on road. Off road, less stiff. This is the kit on it: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981182-pathfinder-deluxe-suspension-package-with-bilstein-shocks-with-black-coils-and-black-torsion-bars.html
  8. No worries man! I was kind of surprised the clip was available on its own--more surprised that the temp selector is too! Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  9. As a thought as well if you haven't thought about it yet, do the D21 Headlight Swap. All you need is the Headlight Buckets, D21 Grill and H4 Plugs. With that you can run some H4 type 5x7 Headlights. They will still look factory and you will have way more light output compared to what you have now.
  10. So as long as you have a load in them you have no problems? Do you happen to have the part numbers for them? I can already tell you have it lifted and I'm curious if they are specific for the light ft or not.
  11. Bruh, you hella saved my bucket on this with that link lol. I see the clip, but I also see the resistance PTC that is for the temp slide...course its out of stock/discontinued on that page, but managed to find it on a different site for about $25. Gonna test it first and see if it functions properly, but also check the solder points too as you mentioned. If its bad and I need it, Imma buy both on the other site. Thanks again.
  12. Way better than before, little stiff, but great with a light load in the back.
  13. How is the ride with the Bilstein's?
  14. I run a company that advertises vehicles for dealerships. Threw the pathfinder in the booth today for fun!
  15. Last week
  16. Ah, so the clip's missing and the cable sheath is moving around. If you can't find it in the carpet, NissanPartsDeal shows (what I assume is) the correct part as 0922-50410 (snap ring). Not available there, looks like these guys have it though. Neither has an actual photo of it, but from the description, I'll bet an E clip with an ID a little smaller than the cable sheath's OD, thin enough to slide into that groove in the housing, would do the job (or that's exactly what the OE part is, just marked up). Worst case I guess you could just JB Weld the sheath in place with the bite marks lined up to the groove and hope you never have to take it apart again. Looking into it further, looks like the non-aircon models had the cable, and the aircon models had the pot/servo arrangement. And yeah, that pot is where I'd start too, assuming the mechanism checks out (slider goes from end to end when you turn the knob). I'd check those solder joints on the off chance one's cracked, and shoot some contact cleaner into the pot and work it around in case it's just got some trash in it that's preventing a wiper from making contact. (And, yeah, check it with the meter to make sure the resistance rises and falls smoothly and the trace isn't broken.) If the pot is buggered, you might get lucky and track down a new pot using the part numbers stamped into the case, though that's probably a long shot. I guess if you don't mind channeling Red Green, you could work out what its resistance is supposed to be (hopefully its resistance is labelled, or you can find a datasheet from the other numbers on the case), gut the mechanism, and install a standard rotary pot through the face plate. I wouldn't worry too much about the cable wearing through the sheath. It shouldn't have much load on it. Wouldn't hurt to shoot some silicone spray down the sheath while it's apart, though.
  17. Ah!!! I found a better shot with a cable installed...cut by a recycle center probably...smh...anyhow, its the best representation of what I mean. In this picture, you can see the cable installed and on one side is a metal shim of sorts holding the cable in place...I don't have that stuck in my unit...soo either it didn't have one or it fell out.
  18. Well...I tried editing a photo and posting...but seems the capacity is super small and wont allow me to post it...soo, am doing a link to the part online instead and without circling the spot i want to show. But am confident you guys can see what I mean. Slot for cable, the adjustment bar itself, and the crevice where the shim would go to lock the cable sheathing in place between the 2. It has a slot where the cable can go down, then you would need to slide the sheathing inwards, then the shim would cut into the sheathing and hold it in place.
  19. Alrighty then...that was quick to find...geez. Soo, to start...cable is still connected at both ends...my issue lies at the sheathing. There is supposedly supposed to be a clamp shim where the sheathing meets the control...its missing. Plus, the end of the sheathing looks to be cut off...yet I don't see any small pieces on the cable itself. Soo, my guess is either it wore itself off and fell after the break...or one never existed and whatever was holding the sheathing in place loosened up and will not hold it anymore. Soo, while I had it out, I was tinkering with it and looking for ways to make it work...only thing I can come up with is either using a zip tie...which I would probably be replacing often if and when it breaks...or use a hose clamp big enough to wrap around this pipe I see and the cable. Just to hold it in place where the cable can freely move, and wont be kinked. Now, the only thing about this though is it makes me worry about the inside of the sheathing wearing down faster(based on if I use the modes heavily...which honestly is almost rarely. Have it on face during hot summer months to cool down(still no a/c...just regular air lol), and my feet and windshield during cool winter months to keep my feet toasty and the windshield fog free. All other times, the windows are down and circulating the interior with fresh air lol. And talk about the temp itself...I had thought I had a cable control for this...there is mounting spots for one if it was installed...but my R50 does not...its electric. Soo, am guessing the resistor bar is either faulty...or something else is the issue. In the picture here, its the long silver bar with pc board parallel to the control bar if it was cabled. Was thinking of pulling out my multimeter...but that right now is MIA...I think I put it in storage...cant find it in my home. Was gonna test it and see what resistance I get across the board. But for right now, am just solely focused on the vent cable...this temp thing can be done later since winter isn't fully here yet, and i have my vents on face right now instead of defrost. But do want to get insight if anyone ever had to test it and/or replace it.
  20. Ok...well...found that the problem doesn't look like its below where the end of the cable links to the controls...I think its within the control box itself. I didn't take apart the dash one bit. Just reached under where the control bars are. I managed to move it to face mode easily. But when I use the control on the dash, rotating it to defrost, it works fine and the control bar below moves with it. But the moment I try going back to face...its like it isn't connected at all and the bar below stays put. I suspect that the cable end is still connected to the bar below...am gonna get my camera in there to confirm in a bit. But if it really is inside the control box, is there a way to open it up and check??? or is it external on the box??? As for the temp, I haven't gone near it yet, needed my screw driver...which I forgot to bring out with me. Have it now and am about to go back out and get the radio and controls out of the dash so I can see behind it all. Hopefully there isn't anything major I find wrong.
  21. I thank you Slartibartfast, that PDF file is exactly what I needed. And I think you meant to say HA-51, which is exactly the diagram and info I needed to know what to look for and how to adjust it and such...now I gotta figure out if I can get my big meat mits in there to make the adjustments without having to mess with anything else lol. And yeah, the temp control is the odd one in the bucket. Just a slight turn and its already 100% hot, shouldn't even be like that at all. But now that I got the diagram on where it is and what cables to look at, I should be able to figure out the issue. The other door for recirc and fresh air is good, no issues there. Just the temp and vent. Thanks again, now its time to dive into this thing and see if I can fix this thing once and for all.
  22. Try the HA section in the service manual. Free download from Nicoclub and worth having anyway. I had a look at the '97 manual (because that's what's on my hard drive) and there's a bit about the cables on HA-52. There's a lot of troubleshooting in there, most of it electrical/aircon related, but there is a section for the manual HVAC. The vent direction sounds like something's mechanically busted. Hopefully the head unit, or the cable's come off, though the tight spot could be something that's fallen down a defrost vent and bound up the mechanism. If nothing jumps out at you, I'd remove the cable from the HVAC head and see if pushing and pulling the cable manually makes the vents work. If it does, it's the head. If it doesn't, either it's come off the blend door, or the blend door is buggered. The temp is an odd one. Again, hopefully a fault in the head/cable and not a blend door. There's a valve that's supposed to shut off the coolant to the heater core when it's set to fresh air, doesn't sound like that's working.
  23. Alrighty then...been a long while since I've been on this forum...forgot about it in a way honestly until recently. Anyhow, I wanna get back to having control of my HVAC system. Right now its purely stuck on defrost mode...went under the dash on driver side and pushed the rod to where it would defrost in the winter time so I wouldn't have to worry about not being able to deice the windshield in the morning. The last couple of summers have been brutal cause i still am trying to figure this thing out. And no..I still haven't fixed my a/c yet either...been trying to deal with this first. Anyways, can anyone show me where the cable diagram is??? I've been looking for the past hour, I keep getting closer to what I want...but only being shown electric actuator versions. And to recap, if I was on Face or Face/Floor and wanted to go to one of the other 3 modes, I would be fine...but during the process of passing Face/Floor to Floor, you would hear a thud or click. Then you'd be able to freely use the last 3 modes. But once you try to go back to Face, right between Face/floor and Floor, it'd jam up and don't want to let it go into it freely. It used to with no issues...but like i mentioned, it suddenly came out of no where and started to get worse. Then suddenly as i was trying to force it back to face, it popped and haven't been able to use properly since. Would have to crawl into the driver footwell and use a flathead screwdriver to move the rod to what I wanted it to be. But ever since, I was like screw it, let me find defrost and leave it there until I can figure out how to fix the problem and have it back to normal again. Once I get that problem fixed, then the next one I wanna tackle is the Hot/Cold selector. There is a photo showing where my selector functions...and its honestly stupid. Gotta keep it on full cold in order for it to blow room temp and/or outside temp air. Otherwise, a slight twist up...it goes full nuclear hot. Warm doesn't even exist. Am hoping this is an easy fix...if not, I'd like to know what to look for and what to test, if anything. Am hoping a few of you gearheads can point me in the right direction so I can have normal HVAC controls. Thanks for your time.
  24. Yes.. I'm trying to sell it now.. With the AWD turned off there is no judder. But turned on it starts judder frequently.
  25. Again, I don't know crap about the R52, but from what I've read they "judder" before they let go. Probably a good call selling it before that goes--I have not heard good things about Nissan's CVTs. Recently I helped replace the rear wheel bearings in a friend's Honda. The howling noise went away, but now that one noise is gone, we can hear all the other stuff that's worn out.
  26. Yeah, that’s a good source. I find it weird that they made these trucks until like 2013 overseas but parts are still a pain in the arse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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