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Ouch. Headlight sure looks tweaked in the last shot. Might've just popped the ball out of the bracket. The grille might be alright, or at least salvageable. Super glue worked pretty well on the grille for my '95. Works great reinforced with baking soda. I used sawdust, don't remember why, but that also worked. Bumper's junk, bumper brackets probably are too. You won't know more until you start pulling it apart. Hopefully it doesn't take much to bring it around, looks like a really clean rig otherwise. When I hit a deer a few years ago, I figured the insurance would want to junk it/be more hassle than it was worth. I just put a strap around the bumper and pulled it straight enough. The rad support needed a little tweaking to get the fender to sit flat, but a couple hours' work got it close enough. One of these days I want to build a stronger bumper, so I didn't bother getting it perfect, but unless you squat down and really look at it, it doesn't show. Hopefully injuries in the Honda weren't too bad. That sounds like a recipe for whiplash.

The contact width on all of them isn't that wide, maybe < 0.5", but I'm not sure wider is necessarily better. Probably don't want things being too snug either. It's ok if there's a little tolerance (the exposed tip of the CV has a little play, too), so long as it's not wobbling around or creating high/low spots in the sleeve. Main thing is lubrication, but not too much (otherwise the clutch ring won't disengage easily). Not sure how easy it is to just find a single unit, but if you get a new pair, you'll have at least a spare. Though, seems like these may be ok still. Is there still a gasket in place to keep elements out?

You just taught me something. The bronze bushing has wear, so the shaft ist not snug anymore. This creates vibration. Did apply some grease and the rubbing/vibration stoped. How ever, its just a patch until I change de Hub. Now just have to decide to replace that just one, or buy a pair in other brand. Warn seems to have a wider bushing? at least, seems so in the pics.

Long story short, I was stopped at a red light, heading southbound. The Accord that was heading eastbound was making a left at the intersection, while the CRV was heading westbound. The Accord thought he could make it but ended up cutting off the CRV, which caused him to be t-boned. After they made contact, the 2 cars pretty much spun out, and due to the momentum the Accord spun backwards right into me I believe both parties were trying to make the yellow light. It was one of those things where you see it happening in slow motion but in real time at simultaneously. I was pretty conflicted on how I felt because I just got this truck last summer, and not even a year went by and this happened; I was just simply at the wrong place at the wrong time. Rotten luck. I could've been in a much worse situation, since I'm the only one that was lucky enough to drive home; my truck still drives perfectly fine as if nothing happened, so I'm proud of it lol The girl who was in the back of the Accord...yeah, Godspeed, I hope she's doing alright, which is why I can't complain. I'm not even mad because it won't solve anything, and I really felt bad for both Honda drivers. Right now, my main concern is getting this fixed, and I'm afraid the insurance might write it off because they might say it will cost more than what it's worth to fix, it's too old, parts are a bitch to find, etc. Regardless, I do plan on keeping this because it would be such a waste to just let it go; plus I had so much stuff that I wanted to do to it. The push bar was both a blessing and a curse: it saved the whole front end and stuff under the hood from crumpling like paper, but it made a deep dent in the hood and misaligned it; the part that wraps around the right headlight is pushed inward as you can see, and scratched the @&#33;*% out a small part of the 1/4 panel above the light. I don't know if the headlight needs realignment, or if that's just the grill or 1/4 panel pushed back, but it still works like a charm The grill is probably done for as well, and obviously the bumper as well. At this point, I won't shed any tears if I lose the push bar. Wish me luck

Some options are pre-wired on these, and the '87 manual shows power mirrors as an option. I'd be curious to check behind the dash and the mirrors see if the pigtails are there already. If they are, it should be an easy upgrade. Otherwise you may need to run some wires. I would not be surprised if the power mirror pigtails were part of the harness for the power locks and windows, so if you don't have those, but the dash is pre-wired, you could get door harnesses from a higher-trim donor and make it work that way. If you have to recreate the harness from scratch, it looks like a reasonably simple system. There's a wiring diagram for it on BF-43 in the '87 manual, or BF-45 of the '89 (which I have on dropbox here). Might need to find the wiring for the rear defroster if you want to get the heaters working.

I'm not sure what the factory used. The service manual calls for their KP610-00250 sealant "or equivalent." The description on NissanPartsDeal says "gasket-liquid," which does sound like Hylomar, but it also says FIP, which I assume is form-in-place, which has me thinking silicone. Let us know what you find when you tear it down! I would expect either type of sealant to do the job provided it's applied properly and the mating surfaces are clean. Unless I had a good reason to use something else, I would use black RTV. Seals are a good idea while you're in there. A seal that isn't leaking yet may change its mind after being disturbed. My front crank seal did that after a timing belt change. I haven't opened one of these transfers, or dropped one on its own, so I don't have much in the way of specific tips. The shift linkage is removable, that might save you some trouble. If you drop the whole transfer case, a transmission jack will make your life much easier. You may need another jack to support the back of the transmission while the transfer is out. I would be tempted to try and remove the back case half without removing the rest of the transfer from the truck, if there's clearance for that vs the torsion bar crossmember. If you need to remove that crossmember, 1) make damn sure the front end is on jackstands first (the torsion bars hold the front end up) and 2) mark or take a picture of the adjusters before taking them apart. They're a bit fiddly to adjust, so having their starting position marked in some way will save you some time trying to trial-and-error it back to where it was. Oh, and you'll need some way of getting oil back into it when you're done. A hand pump will do, slowly. I fabricobbled a jar with a hose and an air chuck to make it easier. When a friend and I dropped the transfer from an Exploder a while back, we overfilled it, installed it, then removed the fill plug to drain the excess. Worked great.

What part failed? None of the hubs use ball bearings; not RR's, Warns, or even OEMs. They have sleeve bearings that do need light lubrication (hub grease) however.

I use a Wi-Fi Elm 327 adapter and the app I use is Dash Command. Works well with no connectivity issues.

Thanks that’s good to know

Late to the party but I'm wrestling me which lift system to go with myself... How did it turn out? Also what tire size and wheel combo are you running? Thanks! PS beautiful rig!

Part number should be this 80999-VE000 and I purchased these https://www.amazon.com/OTUAYAUTO-50Pcs-80999-VE000-Panel-Clips/dp/B08MZFS5Y8 But they don't fit. Rather not spend $60 on OEM ones.

I have always been told that Hylomar (Grey) is what is used on Japanese imports. Might as well replace all of the seals while your at it.

Must be user error or a defect. Many guys here use these hubs with no problems.

This is a common spot for a leak. Any Nissan/infiniti dealership will know the o-ring since it fails on the g35.

Could be the driver circuits for those LEDs are spitting noise back into the electrical system, and your radio is picking that up. If you swap in standard bulbs and the issue goes away, that would confirm your suspicion.

Check in this link your engine configuration.

If the headlights are LED's then there is a possibility. Aftermarket LED lights can cause some odd iddues. I had some LED brake amd tail lights and it somehow caused an issue with the turn signals and running lights.

I replaced my entire front suspension. Also replaced both axels. I didn’t replace wheel bearings. I replaced inner and outer tie rods, swaybar bushings and links as well. Anything that had to do with the suspension I replaced.

Do you have p/n or link of the oring... I guess it is the same problem I'am having

UPDATE As suggested I changed the oring. Here is the picture of the area cleaned and with oring replaced. Will post new picture un about 4 weeks to see if it keeps leaking.

Thanks! The hubs are RugedRidge.. Big mistake getting those, one just went bust. Popped it open thinking it was the bearing, just to realize that they DONT have a bearing. I'm on the hunt for WARN ones, do you know if they do use bearings?

Anyone ever try this? The electric mirrors look better imo. Wondering if anyone has gone thru the hassle of wiring up the controls on an XE pathfinder and if so, where did you route them to. I'm assuming you had to take them off of another pathy along with the controls, but any info would be great. Thx! -Moykas

Let me know if this stifles the leak, I also have a minor oil leak somewhere in my engine bay and may try this as a fix. Good luck!

Nice truck! What kind of hubs are those up front?