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Slartibartfast last won the day on March 25

Slartibartfast had the most liked content!

About Slartibartfast

  • Birthday 06/14/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '93, mostly stock. Trying to get it reliable.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  • Year

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    Eastern Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I had a look at the manuals. Not sure if yours is VG or VQ, but the diagram is on EL-37 in either manual, and looks about the same. They sure crammed a lot of crap into that circuit, and amusingly, power to the bulbs still isn't properly relayed. It's just the WD21 wiring, but backwards, with a battery saver module riding it piggyback. The relays are how the battery saver control unit turns the headlights off if you leave them on for too long with the ignition off. Battery positive goes through two fuses to the two headlight relays. These relays are controlled by the headlamp battery saver control unit. That unit controls both relays together (single trigger wire that Ts off to the two relays). When the relays are engaged, they supply + to the common pin on each headlamp. The high/low filaments in the bulbs are grounded individually through the headlight switch. I'm ruling out the module, because it can't turn on one relay but not the other (if that was bad, it would take out both sides at once). If the switch was bad, I'd expect it to drop one filament at a time, like the WD21 headlight switches do. But each fuse and relay does one headlight, so one bad fuse or relay would take out high/low on that one headlight. Just like with the headlight bulbs, I'd check for any obvious heat/corrosion on the components and the fusebox, and maybe give them a wiggle to see if the light flickers. If it all looks good, you could try swapping them side to side to see if the issue follows the relay. If you're lucky enough to catch it while it's acting up, you could tap the relays to see if that brings it back on, or test for 12v+ at the common pin at the bulb to verify that the problem is on the + side.
  2. After all the hype of how amazing AI was gonna be, it's kinda depressing to see it in action.
  3. I've found that my mityvac pulls air in around the bleeder threads. I'm never sure where the bubbles are coming from. I hate bleeding brakes. Sounds like you're on the right track, though!
  4. Turn the crank until #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke (balancer lines up and both valves on #1 are closed--if you only check the balancer then you have a 50% chance of getting bottom dead on the exhaust stroke instead), point the rotor towards where the #1 plug wire goes on the cap, and stick it in there. Fire up and time it to 15 degrees +/- 2 (you'll need a timing light), then check it again once it's warmed up. If you can't turn it enough to get the timing where you want it, you'll need to pull it back out, turn the rotor one tooth the other way, and put it back. The service manual explains the marks and the timing specs. Cardiagn.com has a '90 manual, which will be correct for more of your truck than the '94/95 on Nico--but it looks like the '90 doesn't show the timing marks, and the '95 does. EF&EC-25 in the '95. The good news is that the dizzy does not drive the oil pump on these, so there's no sticking a screwdriver down the hole trying to get a pump drive spun to just the right spot to where the dizzy shaft will engage with it.
  5. Did too! Borg on the left, old busted donut on the right.
  6. Well, it's too late for Frenchy's truck, but I figured I'd update this in case anyone else is looking to replace their rag joint/coupler. I've got the Borgeson 000941 mounted to the coupler from my parts car, and it looks like it'll work with minimal bodging. It doesn't come with the bolt hole inserts that are in the stock donut. Those inserts will fit, but the Borgeson is a little thinner than the stock donut, so they're a little too long. I considered modifying the inserts, but then remembered that I don't own a lathe, and instead bought some M12 washers that'll fit over them. The inserts are 3mm too long, and the washers are 2mm thick, so one washer on either side should clamp the rubber nicely without damaging it. I'll update when I have it installed. I've got the box pulled from the parts car. Hoping to get around to that project in the next week or three.
  7. Yeah, intermittent issues can be a real PITA to track down. I had a weak connection in the headlight plug cause a similar fault on mine. I just tweaked the contacts in the plug and it came back around. Hasn't acted up since. Wiggle the plug when the lights are on and see if the bulb flickers. The plug on mine wasn't burned, but that's another thing to check for. Loose or corroded connections can make a lot of heat.
  8. Hopefully it's just the motor. Remove the plastic cover inside of the rear hatch, unplug the motor, and see if the wiper switch still pops the fuse. If it doesn't, then it's probably the motor, though I would test the motor before replacing it on the off chance unplugging it just broke the circuit to some other faulty component. If the fuse pops without the motor, or the motor tests good, you'll have to do some digging. EL-69 of the '90 manual (free download from cardiagn.com) shows the whole circuit. EL-90 has component locations, EL-93 and up should help you find the relevant connectors. By disconnecting those, you can narrow down where the problem is. If the fuse doesn't pop anymore with 13B disconnected, then you know the problem is in the hatch. If it still pops with 297M disconnected, you know the problem is between 297M and the dashboard. You could unplug the amp and/or relay. IIRC they're behind the lower trim, left of the rear cargo area. If unplugging one saves the fuse, either that component or something downstream is bad. This approach should narrow stuff down so you're not screwing around chasing wires at the wrong end of the truck. If you can't be arsed to do all that, or your troubleshooting leads you to the rear hatch harness, check the wiring between the body and the hatch. That's the only place in the circuit where wires have to flex, so that's where I would expect the wiring to fall apart first.
  9. I'll bet you could just push the clutch pedal down a little (stick against the seat, adjustable tripod, something like that) so the master can't drain, then take it apart and separate the washer from the banjo on the bench.
  10. That hole is where the cylinder head temp sensor would go if your truck had the 1987-89 throttle body injection. Your '93 is multi-port injected, so the temp sensor is in the neck that goes in the upper rad hose instead. I went and looked at my '93 to confirm. Same hole, no plug, no sensor. Yours is much cleaner, though!
  11. At least you know you won't have to do the master again for a while! Hopefully the slave doesn't fight as hard.
  12. Did you have them test the new alternator? If the problem is the ripple from the alt getting worse under load and confusing the computer or something, then it should run without stalling if you disconnect the alternator. If it behaves the same whether the alt is connected or not, then it's not the alt. Does the stalling happen from too many electrical loads, or just from these loads in particular? Will headlights + defroster do the same thing as headlights + blower? My first thought was that you've got a weak connection somewhere that's dropping voltage under load. I looked up the wiring for the headlights, blower motor, wiper motor, and engine computer to see what they had in common, and the answer is not much. The blower and wiper do share the same fuse and ground points, but the headlights and computer/sensors do not. If the starter's still working, that rules out loose battery terminals. If the connection where the negative battery terminal bolts to the fender is compromised, that would bottleneck everything in the body harness, without impacting the starter. It's a long shot, but if you run out of things to check, make sure that connection is clean and tight. Annoyingly, the FSM doesn't spec an idle speed in gear. 750 +/-50 in neutral, 700 if the TPS is unplugged. 800+ if the aircon is on. I don't remember offhand what the warm idle in gear is on my WD21, but 600-625 sounds about right.
  13. My dad had an a '07 Fronty. Good rig. Plenty of get up and go. If it's got the slushbox, make sure it's had the SMOD cooler issue dealt with.
  14. I'd trust a car dealer saying something is "just a glitch" about as far as I'd trust a submarine controlled by a wireless game controller. That truck's got the ATX14A automatic transfer case, which has a bunch of moving parts and is controlled by a computer. There's some troubleshooting in the TF section of the '03 manual, which you can download for free here. Diagnosis without CONSULT (Nissan's super-special dealer scan tool) starts on TF-62. That light is supposed to come on key on/engine off, then turn off once the engine is going. If it stays on, or flickers, it's trying to tell you that something is wrong, and the manual shows how to track down what it's unhappy about. Depending on the fault, it could be an easy fix, or not.
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