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TheGhost

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    41
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    its old
  • Place of Residence
    British Columbia
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    Other/Unknown
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. still around wilson? Wondering if you solved this.
  2. Thanks adam! Those get quite a bit more $$ with me from Canada but yeah maybe the 1.5" lift option there is my best bet. I could do that with 1 of the spacers I have or maybe shave down one of my spacers so the lift isn't too much over 2" overall.
  3. reference material: JGC front coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201281&cc=1182114 Pathy rear coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201174&cc=1211993
  4. So I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm curious what the opinions are for this specific case and I also just want to write it down for my own sake. I've got a '95 4 door with the tire carrier on original coils and I've put 2" lift spacers in it. The rear still sags a bit and its even worse when loaded with people and gear, plus I soon want to get a hitch and haul dirtbikes. I want stiffer springs and also ~0.75-1" higher rear. I imagine I could just get whatever is on rockauto and get 0.5" more lift in the rear(just for having new springs vs old), but right now rock auto is stocked out and I also want a stiffer ride than I currently have that will be ok with a dirtbike and camping gear every once in a while. I see that people often put in JGC front coils. Running the numbers on rockauto: JGC: rated load length = 15", rated load = 503lbs, nominal springrate 146 lbs/in. Pathy: rated load length = 13", rated load = 566lbs, nominal springrate 161 lbs/in. 15"-(566lbs-503lbs)/146lbs/" = 14.55" resting length, 1.55" higher than stock I also expect I would get ~0.5" extra just switching to new springs, so I'd be at ~2-2.1" higher than currently This means I could switch to the JGC springs and take out one lift spacer blocks to be 1-1.1" higher than I currently am, but I would still be left with the lower springrate JGC. What would you guys recommend? Does my reasoning/math check out? I see lots of comments that the JGC springs give 2.5-3" lift over stock, but my math disagrees (only 1.55" when not accounting for the spring newness). The other thing I'm confused about is I've seen some people say the JGC springs are stiffer, but that's not what rockauto says when comparing their nominal springrates (I know they are variable) or the wire thickness. Thanks for any thoughts!
  5. reference material: JGC front coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201281&cc=1182114 Pathy rear coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201174&cc=1211993
  6. So I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm curious what the opinions are for this specific case and I also just want to write it down for my own sake. I've got a '95 4 door with the tire carrier on original coils and I've put 2" lift spacers in it. The rear still sags a bit and its even worse when loaded with people and gear, plus I soon want to get a hitch and haul dirtbikes. I want stiffer springs and also ~0.75-1" higher rear. I imagine I could just get whatever is on rockauto and get 0.5" more lift in the rear(just for having new springs vs old), but right now rock auto is stocked out and I also want a stiffer ride than I currently have that will be ok with a dirtbike and camping gear every once in a while. I see that people often put in JGC front coils. Running the numbers on rockauto: JGC: rated load length = 15", rated load = 503lbs, nominal springrate 146 lbs/in. Pathy: rated load length = 13", rated load = 566lbs, nominal springrate 161 lbs/in. 15"-(566lbs-503lbs)/146lbs/" = 14.55" resting length, 1.55" higher than stock I also expect I would get ~0.5" extra just switching to new springs, so I'd be at ~2-2.1" higher than currently This means I could switch to the JGC springs and take out one lift spacer blocks to be 1-1.1" higher than I currently am, but I would still be left with the lower springrate JGC. What would you guys recommend? Does my reasoning/math check out? I see lots of comments that the JGC springs give 2.5-3" lift over stock, but my math disagrees (only 1.55" when not accounting for the spring newness). The other thing I'm confused about is I've seen some people say the JGC springs are stiffer, but that's not what rockauto says when comparing their nominal springrates (I know they are variable) or the wire thickness. Thanks for any thoughts!
  7. Where did you get the parts? How was the install? And did it fix your loose backend? About to try this I think.
  8. @Bobsteriffic @Atomicrider Did you have any luck with this? I've got a similar sounding wiggle/shimmy, but mostly when I let on/off the gas on corners over 35mph. Wondering if its the panhard/track arm or control/trailing arm bushings. How rough of a job was it and where did you purchase them from?
  9. @Mr_Reverse How is the install of these? I've got a crazy sway in the rear end when I let on/off the gas at speed, especially corners. Thinking of trying to replace the trailing/control arm as well as panhard/track bar bushings.
  10. found em on RockAuto in a weird category, $15 each tho still. Might wait till it gets more pronounced.. so much to drop for some bushings that might be fine.
  11. Yeah I'm starting to wonder. Today I checked tires and they were at 25-28psi, filled to 40psi and its a lot better now I think. Highway driving will tell. The bushings do seem good though when pushing the car around by hand and jumping on it. Its pretty awkward to get parts for the bushings it seems. I can find control/trailing arms everywhere for the R50 but 87-95 is nothing! Only part I can find is the bushings here for a whopping $200 USD with shipping https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18914449-pathfinder-split-design-trailing-arm-bushings.html brutal
  12. Any updates? Got a strange shift/wobble when going on/off the gas over 20kph ( mostly when going off) and already replaced front tension/compression/strut rod bushings

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