NovaPath Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I have a basic question for those who have installed their own lift kits on these trucks, what would you rank the level of difficulty as? I have done my fair share of wrenching but am at a logistical disadvantage this go around as the townhouse i'm living at does not have a garage. Is this something that a basic jack and tool set can accomplish in a parking lot or am I better off dropping it off and having it done? I consider myself to be shade tree mechanic without the tree... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Also, I understand the hardest part to be installing the spring in the strut, but if I'm replacing the strut and bearing couldn't I remove the old strut and spring together, and install the new strut/spring bearing combo that I had assembled prior? This seems to easy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 pick up a haine's or chilton's manual it will make the process easier. what kind of lift are you doing? lift springs or spacers? if you are doing springs you will have to rent a spring compressor, that is the hardest part. If it is spacers and a spring/strut kit than hand tools is all you will need. make sure to support the lower A arm and drive flange to keep the CV joint from coming apart. I did my lift on the front street with hand tools, I did swear a lot and probably drank to much beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Thanks bushnut. Looking at the ome spring kit with new struts as well. Anything stopping me from assembling the new strut, spring, and strut top/bearing combo before taking the truck apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I've done this myself too with only hand tools. I did have a manual spring compressor as I replaced the struts. For a self taught bobby wrencher like myself I'd rate the level of difficulty of this DIY a 7/10. Reason being, dealing with compressed springs is kinda scary and a lot of fumbling to get things back in and lined up makes it challenging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ok great. If the assembly of the strut is the hardest part I will just take my time and build the replacement strut before even touching the actual truck. I gather I will need the strut, spring, and bearing. Any rubber pads or stops needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 What lift are you installing? Spacers or springs? The new struts should come with new bump stops, if not, you should get some depending on the condition of your old ones. Are you replacing the bearings too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I think I'm going with the ome hd fronts with the md rear. Planning on kyb front struts, not sure on rear shocks yet. I originally was going to reuse the strut tops but if I can build the new struts at my leisure and reduce the chance of not completing this in time to use my truck to get to work, it seems silly not to replace them(plus then they are new!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul.thoroughgood.3 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 It is a relatively simple switch, the only problem I encountered (on a time frame) one of the nuts for front left link pin was seized, thankfully I had a 2nd vehicle and could get to the wreckers and pick one up, just ground the old one off. Otherwise I would've been stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 We did the OME HD front/MD rear in the driveway in an afternoon. Had struts and springs prepped in advance so I think we were down for a day or so. I'm not a big fan of those bar type strut compressors so we used a buddies shop for about 1/2 hour with his wall mounted cage compressor. Worse snag we hit was replacing sway bar links that were trashed. Bolts needed to be cut off. But that part is optional at the strut install point it's just easier to do with the strut not installed. We came back and did front shafts about a year later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Great info thanks guys. This seems very doable in my parking lot provided I have the new struts ready to slide in. For the new struts I will need the strut of course, spring, bump stop, and strut top/bearing. Am I forgetting anything? Rubber pad seats etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Removal and replacement of a completed strut assembly is actually quite easy. You will need both front wheels in the air at the same time in order to avoid putting tension on the anti-sway bar. Also, consider this. I don't know how you plan to disassemble and assemble the strut, or if you'll be buying all new parts (new mount, new top plate, new bearing, new boot/bumpstop). If you plan to reuse any parts from your old struts, you will have to compress+uncompress springs twice per strut. The first time I tried installing new springs into the struts using a basic coil spring compressor tool, I did not own any air tools or an impact wrench. I had 1/2" drive ratchet, sockets, and a breaker bar, but using those tools, it was one of my worst experiences working on my suspension. It took me about 8 hours to do both sides. To be totally honest, if you don't have an impact wrench (whether electric or air), it is a major pain to compress/uncompress the springs, and I would probably advise having the work done by a shop. With air tools and a wall-mounted strut compressor, I am able to install new springs into old (or new) struts in under 2 hours, including removing/reinstalling the wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Great info thanks guys. This seems very doable in my parking lot provided I have the new struts ready to slide in. For the new struts I will need the strut of course, spring, bump stop, and strut top/bearing. Am I forgetting anything? Rubber pad seats etc? You'll also need the upper spring seats rubber seats (top and bottom). If you've not done it before, I'd remove and disassemble a strut first before assembling the new ones, even if you think you have all the pieces. It doesn't take much time to disassemble or assemble them. The FSM has all the torque settings and parts explosion. You'll need to torque the wheel bearing to spec (43-58 ft*lbs). The upper spring seat has markings that need to be aligned properly. Mine had a "W" that pointed toward the wheel, and a notch that aligned to the back of the strut body. You should be able to tell pretty quickly if the upper spring seat needs to be turned because it'll sit awkward on the threaded strut shaft. I can see the notch on the upper seat in Tad's picture, so I'd say that needs to be rotated 90°. (And if you don't believe me, it's in the FSM.) I did this the other week to install taller strut spacers and bolts. I had also never replaced struts before. I needed to disassemble the strut to do so because the heads of the bolts didn't clear the upper spring seat. Each took about <20 minutes to do with rental compressors (the basic threaded bar types) and sockets/ratchets. I had no problems compressing OME MD springs. I don't consider it difficult at all, just be aware of safety considerations. I wore thick leather gloves, eye protection, didn't put my hand anywhere inside the spring (palmed it flat on the concrete), pointed the spring ends away from anything that matters (face, kids, car), and worked carefully. Also, if you use the rental compressors, spread out the hooks as far as possible. I've seen a few guys complaining that they didn't work because they tried compressing only the inner wraps. I had them compressed in 1-2 mins with steady/alternating tightening. Also, a box wrench around a strut bolt on the upper mount prevents it from spinning while loosening/torquing the nut to the shaft. Otherwise, you can torque it after it's installed on the truck. The toughest part I had was keeping the wheel hub and LCA balanced enough to re-install the completed assembly back on the truck. I had to disconnect the sway bar on both sides so that I could move it up/down for clearance. I started by getting a nut on an upper stud so it could be suspended from the strut tower. You also have to be careful about the bottom of the strut resting on the CV boot, and careful about the wheel hub tilting outward as Bushnut mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hawairish: thanks for the detailed reply. One question though, why do I need to re torque the wheel bearing? I don't see where I'm removing the rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Removal and replacement of a completed strut assembly is actually quite easy. You will need both front wheels in the air at the same time in order to avoid putting tension on the anti-sway bar. To be totally honest, if you don't have an impact wrench (whether electric or air), it is a major pain to compress/uncompress the springs, and I would probably advise having the work done by a shop. With air tools and a wall-mounted strut compressor, I am able to install new springs into old (or new) struts in under 2 hours, including removing/reinstalling the wheels. Use of air tools with "manual" spring compressor is NOT recommended! The vibration from the air tool is the absolute number one reason of these type compressors becoming dislodged, causing a very violent and dangerous outcome, usually resulting in severe bodily injury. Please, NEVER use air/power tools on those. I've used several styles of "manual", as well as professional wall mounts. The job can be done safely and properly with either, wall mount (or cage type) with air tools is safer and faster, but manual with hand tools (done properly) will net the same results, just slower. I'm not trying to scare anyone out of doing it themselves, rather trying to ensure it's done safely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 ^I'm with this. I've done about a dozen strut/spring replacements, all with manual, bolt style compressors, and it is just a lot of elbow grease and ratcheting, going from one side to another to keep them properly tensioned. I wouldn't consider power tools for the spring compression either, instead ratcheting wrenches worked for me. You really don't want a spring getting loose... Power tools for the strut unit removal/installing would be fine, but for most jobs I usually just grab the manual tools and the curse book. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hawairish: thanks for the detailed reply. One question though, why do I need to re torque the wheel bearing? I don't see where I'm removing the rotor? Sorry, I meant strut bearing not wheel bearing. And adding to what the other guys just mentioned, excessive vibration would be bad for those manual spring compressors. I used a 1/2" ratchet, and my Popeye forearms. On the particular set I rented, I did have to re-insert the safety clevis pins from the other side because the pin heads wouldn't clear the spring otherwise. (I remember thinking that was probably an indicator to get different spring compressors . But, again, no issues whatsoever. A little grease on the threaded rod helps; probably a good idea to make sure the threaded hook twists freely up and down the threaded rod before using them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Are you doing the rear as well? Springs and shocks? I'm getting my HD OME rear springs today to counter the weight of my tire carrier. Already have new and longer Bilstein shocks in there. Was just curious about the removal of the coils. I was hoping to just be able to compress them and remove them. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 No need for compressors on the rear. Pull the shocks and disconnect the swar bar at the end links. Lift the axle at the pumpkin and put jack stands under the axle between the shock mounts and hub. Lift one side of the axle close to the shock mount, pull the stand, and slowly lower the axle down until the spring is loose or the hub is on the ground. I'll post a pic of the setup in a bit. I used this method on my R50 with OME springs and 2" spacers the other week, but used to do it on my Wrangler, too. Really easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) You do NOT need to remove the upper links or bump stops as seen in the pics. They're off because I was changing the bushings and extending the bump stop, while adding spring spacers. Removing them doesn't make it easier (removing a link, let alone a single bolt link, is a B.. as is) You will need 4 jack stands and a good floor jack. Two jacks support the unibody under the rear doors, and two will support the axle. The factory scissor jack will work, but I'd avoid using it. You want the full weight of the vehicle on the axle when you put the axle on jack stands, and probably the jack stands at their top point. (You don't have to worry about this toppling over, either...the links and PHB keep everything stationary.) I mentioned to put it between the shock mount and hub, but I now remember needing to move it inward against the shock mount, as shown in the top pic to get a better pivot point. You can see the silver jack stand in the back of the first pic...the truck is just barely off that on the driver's side; on the passenger side, it's still on a jack stand and prevents the body from rolling. Use the jack to lower down one side of the axle until the spring is loose (or the hub is on the ground), then lift the spring up to clear the lower pad before pulling it down/out. A rubber mallet adds some persuasion if needed; you can also loosen/remove the bump stop (12mm socket and short extension) for wiggle room. If the hub is suspended in the air and the jack is down, just lean on the brake drum a little...the link bushings will flex...just mind the brake line. From there, put the spring back in, jack up that side of the axle to put the jack stand back, then repeat on the other side. Also...OME "HD" springs? Edited January 15, 2015 by hawairish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks for that, between this and some 4Runner videos on Youtube I now am confident what to do. OME HD (Heavy Duty). These things are THICK!!! I can put my entire weight on them and they don't compress! Depending on how they compare in size to my OEM springs, I might not even need the spacers. Thanks for the info Hawairish! Edited January 15, 2015 by CDN_S4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 OME HD (Heavy Duty) Heh, sorry, I meant to imply that I didn't know HD rear springs existed, only MD. The fronts had 3 flavors, though. P/N 2922? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Heh, sorry, I meant to imply that I didn't know HD rear springs existed, only MD. The fronts had 3 flavors, though. P/N 2922? I see, yeah if you go to Rocky-Road http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.htmlselect rear springs, under pricing, HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I see, yeah if you go to Rocky-Road http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.htmlselect rear springs, under pricing, HD You might want to stop the presses...those are the HD springs for the R51. It's the snot green background. There's only one option for the R50 (same price though). (Admittedly, I've done the exact same double-take on that page before.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 You might want to stop the presses...those are the HD springs for the R51. It's the snot green background. There's only one option for the R50 (same price though). (Admittedly, I've done the exact same double-take on that page before.) Oh F me!!!!! Didn't notice that! FML!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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