XPLORx4

They're the same shock. It's just the way certain resellers list their products. I can see how it would be confusing. The 5125 is technically a 5100-series shock, since Bilstein also has a 4600-series and there's a need to differentiate which series the shock belongs to.

They appear to be slightly different lengths. https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/15115/name/Bilstein-B8-5125-Shock-Absorber-Jeep-Cherokee-CJ5-CJ5A-Grand-Wagoneer-J10-J20-Ford-Bronco-Jeep-Cherokee-CJ5-CJ5A-CJ7-Grand-Wagoneer-J10-J20-Toyota-Pickup-Front-Rear-33-186542 https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/15025/name/Bilstein-B8-5125-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Rear-33-185552 33-185552 is the shock to use for a 2" lift. You'll get much better rear axle articulation, especially if you remove the rear sway bar.

Pull the glass bulb (#194) out of the plastic socket. You can replace the glass bulb with an equivalent LED (#194).

Hi! Thanks for the followup message. What I'm thinking is this: On the upper mount, which is slotted, you would place a square plate that on top has holes drilled into it to accommodate the studs. On 3 different plates, holes would be placed in the center, 1/2" offset, and 1" offset (for example, assuming the total slot length is 2") These three plates would work for 5 positions: -1", -1/2", 0", +1/2", +1", each corresponding to a different gross camber adjustment. Fine tuning could be done using camber bolts if needed, although I'd rather use the original large-diameter strut-to-knuckle bolts. On the underside of the plate are two raised slots that mate perfectly into the slots on the upper mount. So, this piece fits into the slots and makes it so that the bolt holes cannot move even if the nuts aren't fully tightened. After the slotted plate is in place, the washers and flange nuts are installed and tightened. I assume this piece would be machined out of a piece of billet material. Without torque specs, I tightened the nuts to 95 ft-lbs, and I did tighten them initially with the weight not fully on the ground, in order to get a ballpark camber adjustment. That kind of caused the lower mount to skew a little, so it was a little bit of a fuss to get them both lined up. Subsequent adjustments were made after the truck weight was fully on the struts. Of course I had to measure the camber with the weight on the ground, then estimate how much to move the lower mount relative to the upper in order to improve the camber.

It does not hurt to use higher octane fuel in the 3.3L. It doesn't make it run any better, though, since the 3.3L is designed to run just fine using 87. The 3.5L is a higher-compression engine and is designed to run best using 91 or more. (It'll run on 87, but timing will be retarded to prevent detonation and performance/mpg will suffer.) If you can get premium for cheaper than 87, go ahead and use what's most affordable! Just don't ever use E85.

One last thing- Do you have a check engine light? If so, repair the cause of it.

Replace your fuel filter, check the air filter and if it's dirty, replace it. Spray off the radiator from the engine side to the grille. Check that your brakes aren't dragging by shifting into N on a flat surface and verify that it coasts as expected. Check and if needed, replace the fluid in the transmission, transfer case, and differentials. Check the condition of your spark plugs and replace if needed.

For those of you who have installed the Pines to Spines SFD strut spacers, I have some questions. 1. How much did you torque the 2 19mm nuts holding the upper mount to the lower mount? 2. How is the alignment holding up? I adjusted the camber on my spacers which resulted in the studs being approximately in the middle of the adjustment range. However, after a full weekend of rock-crawling and driving on very rough roads, the studs had moved all the way outboard, which resulted in being camber-positive. What is your experience using the spacers? I was thinking that they need a selection of fixed adjustment plates to position the bolts in a particular location to keep the bolts from sliding. Probably 3 different plates per side for 5 camber-adjustment angles. The plates would essentially be square with 2 slotted channels that nest into the camber adjustment slots. Round holes would be drilled into the slotted channels: Max Positive Camber Plate 1: (O====) Plate 1: (O====) Med. Positive Camber Plate 2: (=O===) Plate 2: (=O===) Neutral Camber Plate 3: (==O==) Plate 3: (==O==) Plate 2 would be reversed to provide med. negative camber, and plate 1 would be reversed to provide max negative camber. If there are alternatives to ensuring that the camber doesn't change because the bolts slip, please provide your experience. Thanks!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384742666298?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Knu3hKWGSjm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Your speedo/odo are operated solely by the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) located on the side of the transfer case. If the VSS is giving erratic readings, there's an electrical short or bad electrical connection somewhere either in the VSS wire harness leading to the back of the gauge cluster or there is something faulty with your gauge cluster. The traces and solder joints have been known to crack or fail over time. Also, the VSS signal goes first to the gauge cluster, and then it goes to the PCM. So, naturally if there's a bad signal reaching the gauge cluster, the PCM will get the same bad signal.

To replace the springs, jack up the axle high enough so you can place jack stands under the rear trailing arm mounts on the chassis. Remove the tires and lower the axke. Then, you need to remove the lower shock bolts and the sway bar mounts from the axle. also loosen the rear brake manifold so you don’t overstretch the brake line. Once that’s done, you’ll be able to drop it low enough to replace the springs. To replace the left spring, put the floor jack under the right shock mount and raise it to flex the axle. The left spring will basically fall out. To replace the right spring, jack under the left shock mount.

Bank 1 is passenger side. Try replacing the downstream O2 sensor first. It’s the one after the cat. “V” configuration engines have 4 O2 sensors. Inline engines (with only one exhaust manifold) have only 2 sensors.

I believe the inner joint is easier to service than the outer. Once you remove the CV axle, you'll see that the inner joint has a cap to seal the grease in. You can pop it off by tapping on the cup to get the axle and roller bearings to press against the seal. Once the cap is off and you clean the grease out, there's a snap ring holding the bearings on the axle shaft. Remove that, and the inner boot can be removed and reinstalled. It'll be very messy, so wear some decent nitrile gloves and have plenty of shop rags to wipe up the grease. Pro tip: to remove the CV axle, unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe. A 1/2" impact driver makes short work of it; it's way easier than unbolting the strut from the knuckle.

Sounds like it's the starter. If it does start after several attempts and the engine cranks quickly, meaning the battery is well-charged, it's likely the starter solenoid. I had a similar problem a few years ago. I would try to start the engine, but it would just click. After two or three quick twists of the key, it would finally start. I replaced the starter and all is back to normal.

Yeah, it could be the sensor. I had low brake fluid at one time, and the BRAKE light illuminated. I added brake fluid, but the light didn't go out. I checked the reservoir again and noticed that the little white float sensor had become stuck and wasn't floating to the surface. I jiggled it around to let it rise to the surface, and the BRAKE light extinguished.