CamperDan

You're very welcome! Chris.

Here's a video on the Subject I hope this helps Chris.

Yes a OEM Nissan replacement clutch kit would be nice but that can be a bit pricey. I'm currently running an aftermarket heavy duty clutch kit from Clutch Max Pro https://amzn.to/4qRWyXw I tow my wife's 6X10 Cargo Trailer Camp Conversion with my R50, and do some off-roading every now and again too. I've been running this setup on my 2001 R50 Pathfinder 4X4 for the past 3 years with zero issues. As for gear box itself, if you can find the parts to rebuild it I say go for it, you can also try checking your local junkyard to see if you can find a used one. But they are very rare and hard to find since the manual transmission was only available from 2001-2002 for this gen R50. I've only come across 3 examples in my local junkyard here in Las Vegas in the last 5 years.

If the clutch pedal is anything like the clutch pedal on an R50 it might be caused be a worn clutch pedal assembly. I had a very similar issue on my R50 not to long ago. Turns out that the pin that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder had wallowed out the hole that it goes through and caused the clutch pedal to not be able to fully return to its resting place after the clutch pedal was released. Check out this short video for reference.

@IdahoFalls, I paid $850.00 about 3 years ago here in Las Vegas to have my clutch replaced, but this was the cost of labor only, since I provided my own parts. With parts included, it would have cost me $1050. I should also mention that my R50 is 4WD. If your R50 is also 4WD and this is the quote you received with parts included, I would say this is a fair price. I hope this information helps. Chris.

@AlakAuto, based on what I know about the VQ35DE engine in your 2002 R50 Pathfinder, there are a few potential sources for your coolant leak. One possibility is the water control valve, which is located under the lower intake plenum at the rear of the engine. My guess is that the rubber hose connected to it might have failed. I hope I’m wrong about that, as it can be quite a job to access. Regardless, I recommend starting with a coolant system pressure test. Another area to check is the rubber heater hoses that connect to your heater core on the passenger side firewall of the engine bay. If this were the issue, I think you would have noticed that leak by now. In my experience, when those heater hoses leak, it usually doesn’t run down the oil pan. Doing a pressure test may also help you pinpoint the leak. Chris.

This is your Rear Windshield Wiper Motor, you will need to remove your rear wiper arm and then there will be a plastic nut that you will need to remove from around the wiper motor shaft which will then allow you to remove it from your R50 hatch. Chris.

I almost gave up on this job myself, the good thing is it shouldn't be too hard to get the L bracket back on. I found it easier to work on getting it back on from under the R50 so you can see where it goes Chris.

The "L bracket" in the photo on the right goes on the back side of the alternator and, yes this alternator replacement job is a pita. I had to replace the alternator on my 2001 a few months ago and it took hours to to complete not to mention all the parts you have to remove to make enough working room. I'm surprised you were able to get the alternator to stay put without it, as it is meant to securely clam the backside of the alternator and keep it fixed in place as you thigten the bolt that goes through it. As for the other bracket on the left it just supports a wire loom, I had to go back and check my video to verify as it's been about 9 months since I've done this repair. Check out time stamp 44.40 of this video for reference, I hope this helps Chris.

OK I guess it wouldn't be a bad Idea to have a replacement flywheel on hand just in case the original one can't be reused. As it's always better to "have and not need than to need and not have" it's definitely worth fixing and keeping on the road, as these manual transmission R50's are rare and hard to find. Replacing the hydralic hose and clutch slave cylinder is very easy, Wishing you all the best with your repairs on your new R50 Chris.

I don't blame you for outsourcing the clutch replacement to a local repair shop, it's a big job, and that's what I did when my clutch gave up the ghost. Replacing the clutch hydralic hose is not a bad idea just due to it's age, but I'm curious as to why you want to replace the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders. Are they having issues? You should also be able to reuse the flywheel unless it was absolutely smoked by the previous owner. Chris.

I recommend ClutchMaxPRO Heavy Duty OEM Clutch Kit I've been running this on my 2001 R50 4X4 for a little over 2 years now and I've never had an issue. I get nice smooth shifts and I do quite a bit of towing with this set up too. Check out this link https://amzn.to/42X8JtM Chris.

Good deal, you're very welcome anytime, thank you for all of you're views and support I appreciate it! Chris.

I had also had this issue when I first acquired my R50, the good news is it's a cheap and very easy fix. You just simply need to replace your lift struts for your hatch glass. This is also a very common repair. Chris.

I recommend double checking the banjo bolt that connects the clutch hydraulic hose to the clutch slave cylinder to make sure it's tight. Although if this is your issue I would imagine you would see brake fluid dripping from the banjo bolt and not you're bleeder valve. Chris.