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gamellott

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gamellott last won the day on January 20 2021

gamellott had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Basically Stock, most everything works.
  • Place of Residence
    Seabeck
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kitsap, Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I'm ok with having to order things. It's the fact that some of the replacement parts are not available period. If someone were to make more aftermarket parts... that would be great... But I am seeing fewer and fewer of these critters on the road nowadays anyway... I'm pretty sure these things don't even create any kind of spike in the "collector" world, so there is little to no market for it.
  2. @Slartibartfast I had a 95' D21 years ago that I was fanatical about turning the screws to the left until they clicked and then screwed them back in place. 12 years ago, that thing was in pristine condition. A lot, I would wager most, of the people do not know how to preserve plastic screw receptacles, as well as sheet metal screws. It's been a while, but the kickplates are not at all easy to take out without F-ing the screws up too. Not to be racist, but you must be ginger taking those out ? I'm not tall. Some would consider calling me under-average height. I have never hit my knee(s) on the column crash pad unless the seat was pushed all the way up for whatever random reason. All of the parts are in that I can get for the rear end and I'll follow up with any interesting results. Should be this weekend... ish... maybe... I have to get my motorcycle to get back on the road as well now that the weather is getting nicer.... and gas is still espensive...
  3. Thanks, I might have to hit you up on that if it proves to be terminal. It might take me a while to get there and figure out if I really need a replacement or not, as it's not exactly anywhere on my priority list.
  4. I really don't think it's the amp. If I put it in the intermittent position, and I gently tap it, it works once and every single time I tap it. My money is on that it's a weak spring or dirty contact internal to the switch. Again, If I could buy new, I would. I would also buy a new column crash pad since mine is being held in place by gravity. Someone over the years, snapped the screw posts that hold it together. I have had a white fungus grow inside this thing when it sits for an extended period of time in the moist winters we have here, and I think that may have fouled up the contacts. This fungus has appeared three time since I have owned it. Once when I was active duty and out to sea over the winter, and the past 2 winters when I developed the head gasket leak and most recently the rear brakes/axle @!*% themselves. What's really intriguing is that the individual dash lights would come on and off randomly after I got the heads fixed. It took a while, but they finally all stayed on after a week or so of driving it.
  5. Ya, I just confirmed it. The light comes on initially when I turn on the ignition for a second or two and then it turns off. That part, at least for now, appears to be fixed, where it was consistently lit before. I think that it recognizes that the flow of fluid is impeded and it then throws a fault. The brakes got so hot from them being seized that any coating on them was cooked off and now they'll likely be covered in rust in short order... good enough reason to give them a paintjob now... And now that I'm going to take axles out to replace the bearings and seals... another great time to do that. I just need to find something to cap off the lines for a short time...
  6. Ya, mine has been flaky for a couple of years, now it doesn't work at all in the intermittent position (When it's just sitting there). I thought it was the module under the hood, but this is clearly the switch. When I merely tap it, it works for just the one wipe.... and every single time I tap it. If I could get a new one, I would... or... at least I tried... Guess I'll have to try to take it apart and see if I can do anything to make it work... Or find something on eBay or a salvage yard... or just say F-it and let it fall apart like the 30yo bitch that she is... She is a discouraging one... maybe I'll name her "Amanda"?
  7. I just got notification that they weren't able to ship the part because they didn't actually have it... go figure....
  8. Just a thought for discussion... I have been battling my rear brakes seizing for a couple of years now. I have noticed a trend that the rear ABS light comes on more frequently when it's closer to the time that they are seized and require service. They were recently torn down and cleaned up and It was suggested that I take a different approach and actually put grease around the seals, rather than simple brake fluid to prevent the rust from building up. Time will tell on this fix. So, My thought... it appears as though it's throwing a fault because it's not sensing the ability to pump fluid to the rear brakes. Am I wrong, or would you think that it's a symptom of 30yo electronics becoming glitchy and close to failure? I'm away from the rig right now so I cannot confirm, but after the rebuild, the ABS light turned off as usual, where before the rebuild, it would stay on religiously.
  9. Welp, I ordered it and paid through PayPal. Shipping was a bit much, but if that's the only place that I can get it from, that's the only place I can get it from... Overall cost was $150 CAD. With the exchange rate, that should come up to about $120.... We shall see how this pans out.
  10. When I got my 92, the lock cylinder for the drivers side door was seized and not functional. I replaced it first thing. Spinning is more than likely the plastic clip that holds the rod in place has broken and fallen off within the door. However, if the lock cylinder is broken as mine was, the parts are still available through the dealer. The locks are a little bit of a challenge to remove, and requires the inside door panel to be removed and requires some simple tools. Considering the age, you should take care to pry off the inner skin. The fiberboard that it is made with is likely deteriorated and the plastic rivets easily pull through if you're not using the correct body panel pry tool (A large screwdriver is not the correct tool). There is a clip that holds the lock cylinder in place and can be removed by tapping it out with a punch or long screwdriver. It's probably covered in some of the various service manuals out there, I don't have one handy to verify. Take care of sharp sheet metal edges. It's been a while since I did this, but I even think I used a pair of channel locks in order to remove it. Lock cylinders can be found here or at the parts source of your choice, but likely, only via a dealer of some kind: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-nissan-pathfinder/miscellaneous/key_set_blank_key.html?Diagram=998_A01&pnc=80600. I did not see them on Rock Auto. As is, it's becoming increasingly difficult to get replacement parts for these... my biggest gripe... It is what it is ?
  11. @Slartibartfast I think I need to come visit and borrow your custom made socket for this job. ?
  12. I've already read in a couple of the threads that the headlight switch is very prone to failure. This morning, I fired off the Pathfinder for the first time since I got the brakes fixed (Still waiting on replacement parking brake shoes before I tear into the seals and bearings). I made it a couple of feet out past the driveway, and I noticed I forgot my coffee. Turned around and got it. When I was walking back to the truck, I observed that one of my headlights is out. Both high and low beam. I thought, that's unusual, it's usually only one. When I got back in for my commute, the hi-beam indicator now remains lit regardless of the position it is in, and the one working light does toggle between the filaments.... I haven't done any actual troubleshooting past what I have described above and I looked at the bulb itself. It looks fine.... so.... Switch eh? At least these seem to be readily available...
  13. I purchased my cables through Amayama Trading Co. in Japan.
  14. Just a quick question, I am in search of a new wiper switch PN 25260-03G01. It wasn't used on a Japanese model and not available through Amayama Trading Co. Did a search for that alone, and it appears to be available at a place in Alberta, Canada called Nissan Parts Online https://www.nissanparts.online/. They seem to have a lot of parts available where they're unobtainium anywhere else. Has anyone dealt with these people. The website seems secure, I just don't want to throw some money at a hack and be out of pocket. Thanks Geoff
  15. Just gonna say, I spent way too much time trying to overthink the parts catalog at Rock Auto regarding the inner/outer Disk/Drum differences and the different verbiage between manufacturers". I think the best way to figure it out and not be confused is to stick to one manufacturer. That being said, I believe the online catalog at Rock Auto is superior to others. And no, I am not getting paid to say this ? The other problem I found on other parts stores, in this instance, is that they lacked descriptions on what exactly they fit. This reminds me of the parts documentation for Subaru's in the 90's when I was working for the "Parts" store. Specifically brakes... because that's all that we ever sold for Subaru's back then ? Anyway, All of the parts are on order and I'll get to it when I make time and when it's warmer and dryer here. @hawairish@SlartibartfastI have watched a few videos of people doing this exact job. Every single one of them has them taking the nut off and on with a steel drift. Using that practice, I have no idea how anyone would ever achieve the desired torque. If it's under-torqued, and tight, I don't know that it would actually be that much of a problem especially with the locking tab preventing it from backing off. But then, the torque is probably serving some function.... What, I'm not sure in this case. It's not like it's a head bolt.

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