gamellott

Yes, that one!!!

Stupid question. Did you check to make sure that stupid vacuum line on the back of the intake is still attached, or blocked of accordingly? I can't tell you how many times I've done that and it caused it to run rough.

I kinda doubt that it's a worn pin or eye causing this particular problem, although age and mileage would make it a likely thing. And here's why; the pedal, at the start of the day is perfectly normal. as it progresses down the road, where the pedal returns is further and further down (Depressed). I sat at a stop light for a little while, out of gear, and I would swear that I head it creaking back up to position. After an afternoon of running around town, it's actually depressed a couple of inches. I'm able to get it to return it by pulling it up my foot behind it, and it holds. It just doesn't seem to reset the plunger on the master cylinder.

I got rid of my EGR a couple of years ago when I had the heads off of the engine. I noticed no change in performance. Unless your state requires it, I would remove it.

Gotta love not getting notifications of any response... I have a union in the event that I need to bypass it. I checked the spring, because I thought that was the culprit. Turns out, it's fine. Still has me scratching my head since it's not leaking fluid.... The only thing that makes any sense would be the master cylinder or the dampener. However, if it was the dampener, it would just take up more fluid and still function as normal.... I think I may have just convinced myself that it's the master cylinder One of these weekends when I have time, I'll start tearing into it. It's still drivable for a while, just won't ever go on a long trip with it any time soon because of this.

Wohoo!!! The Site is back up!!!! The clutch pedal, over time, 10's of minutes, does not fully return. It's not leaking or losing fluid. I can put my foot behind the pedal and pull it back into place with no issues, but it returns back to the partially depressed position once it's depressed again. I have a new master cylinder and slave cylinder (Not yet installed). I have a suspicion that the Dampener is sticking, which I believe could cause this symptom. That part appears to be unobtanium. Can this be bypassed, if so, how does bypassing it affect operation? I've been having this issue with my clutch for some time now. If anything, it's a bit annoying, but doesn't affect drivability for short drives to work or in town. Not sure if it would be an issue for a longer drive. Don't really want to test that out and get stranded somewhere while it slowly resets... Miss you guys!! Have a great day!!!

If I had aftermarket wheels, sure. I have the factory Lego's that would require modifying the hubcap if I install the only other option available, which I am not really willing to do. The Cheap Chineze ones are holding out just fine. It's not like there is much of a strain on that part of the driveshaft, it's just holding it all together and preventing the guts of the hub from walking off on the shaft. Agreed that they're probably not machined enough. I might... consider cutting it down somehow if it becomes an issue.

That happens. I managed to do that with the rear wheel seals. I don't know how I did it, but I couldn't exactly return them. Took me over a year to actually do the work after accumulating the parts to do the job. So by the time I finally got to it, it was... well just another delay. But then, it was all apart with no real excuse not to get it done. And Then... lets not forget finding debris in the pinion after putting it all back together.... which led to a whole different thread on something that I had never done before

I believe I used a short piece of iron pipe to drive it on since an oversized socket isn't an option.

The outer seal on mine failed some time ago. I have it removed, and I have a new piece of rubber from Nissan waiting for me to get it glued to the glass. Not finding anyone who is willing to do it. In the meantime, I have 2" electrical tape covering the seal to prevent debris from falling into the gutter. It's not perfect, but it IS keeping the debris out.

My bet is that you are having an issue with a fuel injector now that you have looked into the rest of the culprits. I'm experiencing similar symptoms, and I'm pretty sure it's the injector, since, like you, it was only sitting a week or so when the symptom popped up, and I have localized it to one cylinder which will require me to pop off the intake... Good Luck!!

I've taped a coin over the hole in the past since that OEM part is likely unobtanium

As far as the cruise working or not. My clutch pedal does not return all the way because I believe the return spring is broken. There is another switch on the clutch pedal at the top of the throw that does not engage unless I pull the pedal all the way up to contact the switch. If it's a manual, that could be an issue to be aware of.

I suppose you can put the calipers on the wrong side when outright replacing them, which will put the bleeder screw on the bottom, which will not allow the air to escape when bleeding the brakes. I don't believe the ABS could cause an inability to bleed the brakes. If it's leaking, there would be obvious signs like a puddle somewhere... I haven't heard of such a thing ever happening.... I could easily be wrong though. The Absolute best process I found to bleeding the brakes on these, is Gravity. Open the bleeder screw and let gravity do it's work. If you have a bubble in the system, it will pass. At least, that has been my experience. I've overhauled the rear calipers on mine several times because I can't seem to get the rust under control and they seize about once every other year. I think I may have found the holy grail and assembled them with silicone grease around the boot. So far, so good. Another trick/process, Doorman makes these things called Speed Bleeders. Their documentation by application, I have found, is wrong though. IIRC, the documentation calls for a 33mm shaft and that is too short and will not seat. The 35mm shaft fits and seats properly. They're basically a check valve that allows the fluid to pass only one way when they're open. The process is simple, open the bleeder screw once installed, and pump the brakes a couple of times. Once done, shut the valve and check for leaks. You may have to clean the seat on the calipers since the seat on the Speed Bleeder is much larger than original and my have rust accumulated on the seat in the caliper. Hope this might help some!!

I doubt that it would be the coolant temperature sensor. On my rig, a previous owner broke that connector and it was disconnected for quite some time before I discovered it. That connector being disconnected did NOT cause any issues near as bad as what you are experiencing. Isn't the limp mode setpoint around 2800 rpm?