tmoore4512

Hey brotein, ran into this same issue. What I found was that the T case linkage was too short to get it to engage properly. Disconnect the linkage and move it manually, then check it. I had to extend my linkage and tack weld it once I got it right, then pull it off and weld it up. No problems since.

Have enjoyed the customer service and quality of parts as well as the overall fair pricing from Barnes 4WD. For those looking for a truss for the Wagoneer they have one that works well. Jeep TJ, LJ, XJ, and MJ Wagoneer Dana 44 Front Swap Kit – Barnes 4WD

Looking for some up-to-date input on where you guys are scoring fab items. Brackets, end links and parts (heim, johnny, etc.) coil overs, coils... I have been out of the game for a bit and all of my sources have dried up. Getting back into the fab game and going to be tackling the waggy 44 surgery soon. Thanks guys.

Well disregard. Found another thread on here after multiple pages of searching that answered the question.

Hey guys, anyone swapped the OEM steering wheel out of their WD21? Just curiosity mainly, but mine is starting to break down as they all seem to do. Thanks for your input!

All great points and things I will try next. I have not worked on this dude in years, life happens. Hell, still have all the components to do the SAS sitting there. Sigh. But she's gotta start and run reliably first. Thanks again. Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

I concur with what the concept is surrounding the inhibitor/interlock relays. Firmly believe corrosion is the culprit and will have to dig in deeper to see if I can locate it. Thank you for the reply.

Okay guys, been a bit. Looking for some insight, as I am experiencing some perpetual starting issues. Pathfinder will not start unless it has a booster or a set of jumper cables connected. Before you say it…. Brand new battery, brand new cables and connectors, brand new starter and alternator. (Literally, within the last two weeks.) My next course of action is to replace all the wiring that has to do with the starting circuit, as it would appear that something is forming enough resistance that it is hindering the flow to fire the starter… Which leads me to my main question: In the PDF manual (#23 electrical) it refers to the “inhibitor relay” or the “interlock relay” depending on the diagram. Does anyone know what exactly this does and is it vitally necessary? Open to your thoughts.

It is next on the list! Planning on pulling all six and rebuilding them with new screens and O rings anyway...,for $20 bucks, I cant beat that. Besides they are relatively easy to pull...

Just an update... No stored codes in the ECU. Vacuum lines are all in tact...and replaced, as of yesterday just to be sure, some were dry rotting anyway. Disconnected O2 sensor, it got worse, back to the same when reconnected. Temp sensor did nothing....hmmm...

I need to add...that it runs great prior to getting to operating temperature... Stupid question...but does the 95 ECU take a serious signal from the temp sender and allow it to affect fuel curves? Its almost like it is not putting enough fuel to the air ratio (throttle plate open), or maybe it is a leaky injector...dumping too much fuel? Frustrated to say the least.

Here I am again....sobbing uncontrollably. Went out and started the pathfinder, let if warm up....then the oldest boy and I went for a very VERY short test drive. Dang thing is doing the exact same thing. Stutters and hesitates if I try to accelerate anything more than VERY SLOWLY. Absolutely ZERO codes, and no CEL. It is doing the exact same thing it was doing from the get go. I am now...at a loss. Is it beer thirty?

Okay I am back, The problem persisted once the motor warmed up to operating temperature. Prior to that the issues were pretty non existent. Here is what I did after tracing and repairing rat chewn wiring. (Jacklegs!): Removed MAFS, and alcohol/Q-tipped it. (It was pretty nasty). Determined which wire in the harness was the ground, cut stripped and soldered/heat shrunk...and tied to known good chassis ground... Holy mother of sweet baby Jesus, it is running better. Still has a slight miss at times, but what can I say....at least it will idle and drive! I proceeded to spray down the engine bay with degreaser and rinse it out...rats had made quite a mess and there was some sap and other residue built up.... Runs good for now. Will address the miss next RDO. But at this time...at least it is not going to the junk yard. Thanks for all the input guys.

Sorry for long delay...life has been wild. TPS was bad, replaced it. Problem persists. I am leaning towards MAF, but I have yet to see a CEL or a code for this. After I get home this afternoon I will check it out... Hope all is well with you guys.

When I get off shift I will put a meter on it and check output voltage just to confirm.