adamzan

Have you verified the timing belt is set correctly? If you need to be sure, it should be 40 teeth between the camshaft marks and 43 between drivers cam and the crank. This is with it set at TDC for #1 cylinder.

This. Don't bother with the aftermarket ones unless you are ready to replace them every year. I think I have changed the one in my brother's 3.3L frontier 4 or 5 times now.

Good luck! I have mine on classic car insurance here, dropped it to about $250 CAD a year. Crazy cheap. I didn't register it with the province as historic as they put stupid restrictions on when and where you can drive it.

One thing to mention is these trucks can't tell if an individual injector is bad, so you'll have to test them all if you haven't already. They should all be around 12-14ohms. The engine temp sensor can definitely cause issues, it's the 2 wire one at the upper rad hose neck. They are cheap enough I'd probably toss a new one at it if the wiring checks out ok. With all those codes it sounds like there could be chewed wires? I would check the harness for any spots that look suspect. You can test the temp sensor by putting it in water at a certain temp and measuring the resistance I believe. The details are in the service manual. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

The salt up here means all but a handful are gone. I genuinely get excited when seeing another one on the road. Can go almost a year or more without seeing another wd21 here in Ontario. I have a couple friends that still have them. But we don't drive them in the winter. My current one originally came from Vancouver BC. Last one I saw in the junkyard in my town had to be almost 5 years ago at least.

This is very interesting. I always had this issue on all my trucks, and even if you cut out the rot and welded new in, it would come back over a few years. Will be taking a look at mine when I replace the fuel tank in the coming weeks.

Any bolt on the intake will be grounded, there is one near the front to the left of the distributor that has some ground wires already, you could unbolt it and add an extra eyelet terminal there. Or just go straight to the negative terminal of the battery. Inside the truck any of the metal brackets should be grounded under the dash. I believe I used the cigarette lighter circuit when I did this on mine years ago. That will be ignition switched 12v as well. As for the light, you should be able to tap into the wire that dims the radio lights. If you look in the service manual it will have the correct diagram.

The original wire clamps worked the best, you never had to go back and tighten them up like the worm drive ones after the car sat for a while or during the change of the seasons, of course mine were all rusted so I replaced them with worm clamps as that was all that was available at the time locally. Newer cars use the spring ones, if you have the right pliers for it they're fine and you can usually lock them open. Personally I'm partial to these, can make any adjustments on the fly.

I should have added, don't pull it out but strap it up to the crossmember or something.

Is there any oil in it? Sounds like it ran dry or some other catastrophic failure. I'd do what @level9 said and check if it rotates at the crank but it doesn't sound good. Fortunately there are a lot of VG33E sitting in the junkyards that you could swap in.

Disconnect the driveshaft to the axle of the wheels that are touching the ground to be sure. Should only take a few minutes. A/C, probably the evaporator.

Being in Canada it won't be here till late next week so whoever is first, post up lol.

I love how their solution is to hack up the car's wiring, although I guess you can just use the old compressor's pigtail. All to save them 10 cents on the production line lol. I didn't know they changed from rotary vane to piston style. Maybe we'll get better idle speed A/C performance then. I just ordered a four seasons one for mine and a valeo for my Xterra (expensive summer!) Here's a good write up on the differences: https://www.toyota-industries.com/products/relation/compressor_kind_1/index.html

Looks good. Any more updates? I'm getting ready to possibly do this on my xterra but will mean I lose it for this wheeling season.

breaker bar