adamzan

The hotter they run (within reason) the more efficient they are.

The sensor on the rear end is nearly impossible to find, mine got messed up on the trail and now I live with the ABS light on all the time. I found the sensor new once and it was like 700 bucks... No thanks. Still hoping to find a used one.

Check ebay I was able to buy some new front window mouldings from nissan in thailand. I bought 3, and cut 1 in half for the rear door windows.

All the vg30e pathfinder injectors are the same, some have blue or black dots, you can interchange them but the whole set should match. I have mixed them and didn't notice a difference but it's not best practice. No difference for manual/auto. If you bring a meter and they're around 14ohms they'd be worth grabbing as spares. As for the stuff under the plenum like the idle air valve, supposedly they're different from auto to manual, but I actually put a used one from my 1994 parts truck (auto) onto my 1995 SE (manual transmission). Runs perfectly fine. Since your truck is a 1992 it will have the square dash, so 94-95 round dash wiper/headlight stalks may not work. Washer pumps are readily available, I wouldn't bother grabbing that stuff, same with blower motors. I would grab any trim that is in good shape like door arm rests, dash vents/surround, etc. That stuff is getting very hard to find used and not destroyed. Also the window sash mouldings are hard to get now as well, the "scraper" seal at the bottom of the window is what I mean.

If it's made it this far... Either it was well cared for or replaced. it'll be fine

Glad you found a fix! I had a weird rattle like that and it was only when cold. Turns out m torque converter bolts had backed off, scary!

Sounds like your temps are close to what I experience. I don't drive my WD21 in the winter anymore because the salt killed my last one, but I drive a first gen Xterra with the same transmission. Sometimes I have to let it idle for 5-10 minutes just so the clutch fluid warms up from ambient engine heat, and the pedal isn't a marshmallow!

I do have a known good 1994 SE Automatic ECU, lmao.

Yeah I could see that being a pain. Fortunately I haven't had to do that lol.

The 170F (76.5C) is what they all came with originally. I personally found that one a little too cold here in Ontario Canada during the winter time. Basically, it could barely keep the window de-iced and my feet warm when the temps dipped below -15C, especially on the extreme wind chill days. In doing some testing, I found the coolant temp barely stayed at 170F once it opened when driving in stop and go traffic, because these older style ones just tend to stay open unless it goes way cold, a temp solution was covering the rad with cardboard to block some airflow. You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water. I swapped over to a 180F (82c) when doing my water pump and it made a decent difference, imo this is what they should have put in at the factory, the later VG33E (not supercharged) in the Xterra came with that one... The 192F (89C) was never a factory option and has only been available for the last few years. I don't know anyone that has tried it, though. It's still well within the normal operating temp so I don't see it being a big issue. These trucks aren't exactly known for overheating in my experience, so it should not be a problem provided your cooling system has been well maintained and the rad isn't full of scale. In 20+ years of owning a few of these trucks, the only time I had issues running warm were with a radiator that was full of mud. My 2.0 VW motor has a 190C stat originally, that thing has the best heat out of all of our cars!

The noise could also be slight play in the bearings allowing the rotor to move just enough that it is contacting the backing plate. I have had that happen before. @gamellott They didn't have zerks but had a bolt that you removed to install a zerk. I agree it is hard to find good chassis parts these days. I usually just buy the cheap stuff because the lifetime warranty stuff seems to be 3x the price for 0x the quality. The best TRE, ball joints etc for these were/are the "three five" brand, you could get them at napa at some point, and rock auto under beck/arnley.

I know on mine, on cold starts it stumbles and runs a bit weird but only when you touch the throttle, and it is 100% dependant on how cold it is. If it is -20 it will stumble and hesitate without doing anything, on a hot summer's day you might not even notice it. If you turn on the air con - slight misfire goes away. I replaced the valve under the plenum and it's better, but it still isn't right. Going to try and find an iacv-air regulator that is known good.

I gotta say, when people complain about the #6 plug I can immediately think of some engines that are way worse. Old GM V8s that you had to remove the A/C compressor/brackets (I wanna say pontiac or caddy from the 70s), any transverse mounted gm v6 in the 90s is hell to get to the back 3 plugs. Or how about the maxima with the VQ35, you have to remove the intake plenum to get 3 of the plugs out. Thankfully if you use modern platinum plugs they last 100k easily.

Any updates?

For a quick fix some people just snip the bent part of the needle off, it should at least stop it from binding while you find a replacement. There was someone on the FB page selling a cluster I believe.