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hawairish

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hawairish last won the day on June 25

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About hawairish

  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    41-45
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2004

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I hit a mental roadblock for the last several weeks trying to figure out how I was going to support the engine. This is one of those moments where it would've been awesome doing a swap on a framed trucked because the support likely would've remained 100% intact. Instead, removing the subframe and trying to replicate the OE positions ends up being a massive pain. There are just way too many constraints. The left and right side mounts positions on the subframe aren't in symmetrical positions, and they're angled, and with the way the motor is slung up, it's impossible to know where the original position was to feel comfortable enough piecing something together while underneath. I had spent some time early in the project mapping all the distances and angles off the subframe, but even after CADing their positions, it was still difficult figuring out how to place them on the truck. Passenger chassis rail has too many parts around it to comfortably weld onto, and driver side, while wide open, has other design constraints I need to work around (like placement of the upper panhard mount). And then on top of everything, just trying to keep things serviceable (like having the mount supports detachable to make replacing the motor mounts easier in the future, as opposed to fixed mounts on the chassis and trying to lift the engine 2"+ higher). So, last Wednesday I had the day off and was staring at things again and just decided to chop up the subframe to see if I could use the arms off it, since it'd effectively retain all the OE positioning. It seemed promising, and spent the weekend trying to make it work. Basic plan (for now) was to lop off the front subframe mount and build a new plate to attach to the arm. It also needed to incorporate the mount for a bumpstop (cheapies from GM applications). The RH arm is basically done, but I wrapped the weekend by fitting it to the truck and haven't gotten more pics of it yet. LH arm below, just to give an idea of the starting point. I started on the RH side because it had less constraints. New front mount in place and welded up. Need to add a gusset in there above the bumpstop. The little piece of metal between the arm and chassis rail is a disc with a tube sleeve welded on. It'll get welded to the rail, and also in the wheel well so that I can put a bolt through it and tighten it against the rail for additional support. I may add one more sleeve and bolt towards the rear, not sure yet. Right now I've left the rear subframe mount alone, but am planning to replace with plate steel and add provisions for a crossmember (basically restoring a missing link). It'll also add more support to the arms for the motor. One major advantage of this approach will be on the driver's side. The flat underside will give me real estate for the panhard mount. Since the driver's side chassis rail will get a lot more plating for the steering box, it should make for a pretty solid mounting option.
  2. Funny part is I didn't even think about strapping it up, just the habit of pulling it for misc. projects. So yeah, in that case, strapping it up somehow ought to work, too.
  3. Don’t disconnect the rear driveshaft for towing. Fluid will come out of the t-case. Could dolly the rear wheels and remove the front driveshaft and tow in reverse if in a pinch. A/C: 2nd the evaporator, or something on the cooling unit in general.
  4. The Nissan FSMs are the best technical resources on our trucks, and are freely available at NICO. Ring gear is probably toast and toothless if the driveshaft spins and nothing else.
  5. If your driveshaft spins and the CVs don't, then something's wrong with your ring and/or pinion. Maybe sheared the teeth off the pinion. Might be able to open the fill plug hole and peek through. Otherwise drop the diff and replace with one from a D21 or WD21. Also, no need to start a new thread about the same issue. Your original thread in General was fine.
  6. Yeah, as Slart mentioned, this is bad. Recall any noise? Can also lift a wheel and try turning the CV flange coming off the diff, or turning the driveshaft. Something else should turn.
  7. Procedure seems right from what I see in the service manual. Got a 2nd fob? Battery installed in the correct direction? Are the metal tabs for the "+" side still intact and do they contact the circuit board? Any visible damage on the circuit board?
  8. And here's what they look like with a bed resting on them when the in-tank fuel temp sensor is throwing codes and emission tests are due soon...
  9. General topic, maybe off-topic, but still PF love! I've been hoarding LE wheels (9 of them so far) for a while and finally got around to slapping a set of them on my 98 Frontier. Had a shop in town strip them down, repair all scrapes and curb rashes, then powder coat them in "wet charcoal with satin finish". The results came out great so I thought I'd share the journey. Started out with 17x7 4Runner wheels shown below. Tires were old (Fall 2016, installed early 2017) with only 4,100 miles and tons of tread left, but showing their age. I started a new job at the beginning of April which has me commuting again, so it was time to change them. TownDawg helped me visualize (a la Photoshop) what the LEs would look like on it... And with a little bit more drop (only 1" in the pic above)... Truck's been undergoing a slow restoration for a while (body, paint, and glass done 2022, new tint and interior around the corner) so the plan was to get a set repaired and put new tires on them. All the ones I had have varying issues, but fortunately no major ones. As much as I like the factory silver on the T4Rs and the LEs (both similar color as the original wheels), the color has always been out of place in my opinion. And for what it was going to cost to refinish each wheel (5 of them), it was actually more expensive to go with a factory finish than a powder coat ($275/ea vs $225/ea). So, bought 5 new tires and took my 5 crustiest wheels to the shop to scope color options. Was looking specifically for something that keyed off of the inset of the grille. Found a pretty good match... The results... I also stripped down a set of center caps so they could be paint matched...not too bad! Cut new adhesive for the emblems as best as I could... Installed... Just the right amount of stick-out, no spacers... Kinda gray, kinda charcoal, kinda black...depends on the light I suppose. But they came out great! New lugs and lock nuts seal the deal. LEs are 17x8 and the 235/55R17 tire is supposed to be about 27.2" diameter, but according to GPS speed it's much closer to a 26" (stock size). 27.4" tires should have offset the H233B w/ 3.9 gears (stock 3.7) according to my calculator, but I still needed to use the 18-tooth speedo pinion gear (stock 17) I had previously installed. Speedo's spot on now.
  10. Oh, and I only replaced the parts that were broken. I think I re-tapped a few threads also, just in case.
  11. Interesting. I never looked closely enough, but that seems like it. That's what my cats looked like. I intended to replace them, but the kit I bought was total @!*% and effectively non-returnable. Lost a few hundred bucks in the process and just slapped my OEMs back on. Maybe one day when I'm not sour about the purchase I'll try replacing them again.
  12. Progress has been very slow. Kids' sports in full swing and I started a new job at the beginning of April. New focus had been getting my Frontier back into commuter mode. I'm dropping off a set of LE wheels for refinishing and powder coating in the morning, and new rubber by the end of the week. It should look fantastic...it better be for what I'll be paying. Since last update, I built a new bracket and re-slung the engine. I didn't like that I could only use one bolt on it due to space limitations, but it creates a cantilever that holds fine. The intermediate piece is bar stock from the WJ steering shaft after I cut it down. View from the bottom... Engine hasn't fallen to the floor yet, so it must be good enough. I also mulled considerably on the radius arm brackets. Wanted to get caster adjustment since the optimal angle varies depending on who you ask. OE caster is 3°±0.75°, but the straight axle community says 4°-8°. So, I'm targeting 5°, and the caster adjustment I did gives me ±2° range. The final brackets... My craptastic welding. Old Blue in the background to distract you. And finally, actual results... Finding the right caster (or really, camber bolts turned 90°) was a pain. The front FJ bushings use 16mm bolts, and the only 16mm caster/camber bolts I could find were the lobe style we use for camber adjustment on our struts, but they were all just a little too short. Anything else I could find that used a cam washer was 14mm and too long, except ones for a late-80's to early-00's GMC/Chevy trucks and vans which were a good length but still 14mm bolts. I ended up using 14mm ID x 16mm OD sleeve bushings to fill the void. Took some effort to get the slotting sorted to make the adjustment work, but they work great. Other hardware being used is OE Toyota. I did not do a very good job of maintaining spacing on the brackets for the bushings. I had scrap bushings from a prior job to swapping out bushings on FJ arms, and used them as spacers, but the welding still tightened up on them. I was able to coax them to width without angling them out, except for the lower panhard mount. Just needed to grind down the sleeve for a few seconds and it's good to go, though.
  13. My reason for asking about any special features on your LE headlights is because there could also be a control module in place. Long time ago a buddy had an Infiniti J30 where the headlights kept flickering or turning off random; would work fine for a while, then not work. I spent hours tracing the issue and eventually took a real hard look at a headlight control module under the hood. Took it all apart and found a couple solder joints on the back of the control board had hairline cracks. Resoldered it, problem solved. I know there were some premium headlight options, I'm just not sure what they were aside from leveling options. I haven't scoured the FSM to see what options there were. In your case, you still may want to just swap bulbs and wait it out to see if the problem travelled.
  14. Mine didn't have the washer or mesh washer, and it didn't look like anything had been replaced previously...stock manifold and uppers as far as I could tell. I looked for those items, too. The upper had a lip that seemed to fit well into the manifold opening, and sealed fine when bolted together. Looked on RA and couldn't find suitable replacements, and sure as hell wasn't paying $20/ea x 4 items to replace items that weren't there and didn't seem to present a problem. But, looking at RA now, I see a Fel-Pro mesh washer (p/n 61339) is on closeout for $3.33/ea that I don't recall seeing previously apparently because it only shows up in a search by OE p/n, and not by my application. Fel-Pro 60835 reads like it might be the washer ("Converter; Manifold To Converter") but it has no matching OE p/n and zero specs...it looks too small and of one OE p/n it does list, it returns as a match for the gasket that goes between the upper cat and lower cat/resonator. Looking at a pic of the washer, it's hard to tell if it crushes; looks like it has squared edges. Frankly, I'm not even sure what the mesh accomplishes, but maybe I'll pick some up.
  15. I’d start by swapping the bulbs left <-> right and see if the issue travels. Inspect the wires for any issues. With a multimeter in continuity mode and lights off, you can try probing the low and high signals to see if there’s continuity, suggesting a short somewhere. Then, with test voltage/signal on low and high when on. Just both headlight sockets for consistency. My guess (and lowest hanging fruit) is the bulb, maybe something odd going on internally…wild guess. Does your LE have anything special about its headlights? I thought some had optional adjustment or different bulbs/lenses vs. SE models. Not sure.
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