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hawairish last won the day on May 6

hawairish had the most liked content!

About hawairish

  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Dis some FB BS.
  2. This smells like some Facebook bull@!*%. Don’t bring that @!*% here.
  3. Ha, I'm the same way. In fact, I just put in an order for disc brake parts today and was bouncing back and forth one some options. Since both my R50 and D22 now have WD21 rear discs, I also always have to compare what's available for two trucks...needless to say, there aren't as many ceramic pad options for a 95 WD21 as there are for an 04 R50. RA and NPD are my go-tos as well for parts lookups, except I've noticed the RA listings are getting a bit sloppy. Not their fault, though, because that data comes from the manufacturers. It's just that when you own an 04 R50, it's flooded with parts for an 04 Pathfinder Armada as well as a bunch of D40 Frontier, N40 Xterra, and R51 Pathfinders parts for some dumb reason (bunch of Dana and M226 axle parts). It's even trickled to the local stores when they as for my truck's info...Me: "2004 Pathfinder", them: "V6 or V8?", me: "There wasn't a V8 Pathfinder." Stupid Armada BS. I'm coming around to using more sacrificial sockets for stuff like this. It's hard to cut small squares with the plasma table. The black impact sockets and adapters from Harbor Freight has been pretty useful for that sort of stuff.
  4. Alright, so yeah, now this is coming back to me. That single taper H233B setup was actually identical to my 98 Frontier's H190 setup. Same bearing cage, bearing, shims, seal, etc. But, I guess I also thought there was a range of W/D21 drums that had the newer bearing cage like the R50, but seemingly that was limited to the wider axles (R50, D22, WD22). And yeah, that recessed axle nut in the bearing cage is absurd. I once bought a spanner that I thought would work, but wasn't even close. I've made a couple tools using my plasma table to do that work, but I sold one and Towndawg has the other for his disc brake swap. I made them to accept 1/2" ratchets/breakers in order to hit those torque specs, but in more recent efforts, have just resorted to hammer and punch. This was one of them. Wasn't a fan of the design, but worked: I liked this one better because it gave me some wings to smack with a hammer: When I first started getting into the axle shaft tear downs, I just went out and bought a floor press (was cheaper than outsourcing the work) and it's been a wonderful shop addition ever since (most recently used for a t-case upgrade). I just needed to make some tools to tear things down. This was one of my later setups using some scrap; just bolt onto the bearing cup and suspend in the floor press: Towndawg stepped it up and made one with a turn screw...no press required for disassembly. Looking at the FSM for my Frontier, though (and largely assuming that process hadn't changed for the single-taper design since '92), it shows use of a tool similar to Towndawg's for pulling the bearing w/o a press, but then shows just using a drift to reinstall the bearings (both outer and inner races). I've never done this job on my Frontier to confirm, and now that it has an H233B with discs under it, I won't have to. @gamellott Since the H190 bearing setup appears to be identical to your H233B setup (according to NissanPartsDeal.com, every part from the axle lock nut to the seal on a '92 is a VIN match to my '98), let me know if I can get you some pics from my H190 to confirm anything for you.
  5. Though…shouldn’t they only then differ by the bearing and bearing cup, which would be shallower, but otherwise be the same process. Pretty sure the grease seal is the same for practically everything, down to the H190 (which I think uses the same single bearing…I’ll have to crossref that).
  6. My bad, forgot the older drums used the single tapers and thrust blocks, unlike everything after (including Frontier and Xterra) using dual bearings.
  7. Bearing setup is identical. The axle shaft assemblies only differ by the brake backing plate, one for drums, one for discs.
  8. Nice. Partsouq is where I got an 18t speedo pinion for my D22. They’ve been super reliable for other purchases. Hope Amayama works out!
  9. I've had good results with Amayama overall. They've been able to get some totally obscure stuff for me, and at great prices, but I've had to cancel an order or two due to just being tired of waiting.
  10. May need to check if yours are the aluminum ones, though. I think there were two styles that had steel frames, and one with aluminum. My buddy's 02 SE had aluminum ones.
  11. Some supporting pics... Sliders aren't attached here, just resting on jacks before I changed the mounts, but you can see how badly they jammed up into the pinch seam and rocker panel. Front leg: Rear leg: There's just nothing to prevent them from shifting upward except the pinch seam. How it sits today with my QX4 mounts, but you can see the lack of a gap at the door corner and further back. Doesn't hinder the door, though, but does rub just enough. The slider bodies are stout enough, though. No complaints there; just the mounting style I disliked. Shot of reinforced OE mounts and trail abuse since (my muffler has taken a beating): Here's basically how I had converted OE step rail mounts for use on mine and R50JR's sliders. I really liked the results. Just chopped off the legs and cut side plates to stiffen them up.
  12. I use amayama.com (Japan) and partsouq.com (UAE) to get scarce or oddball items. International shipping has been very reasonable. PS stuff gets to my door super quick. Amayama appears to have both the assembly (32702-33G18) and pinion only (32703-31G18) available. The former looks to be about $40 shipped. The thing about Amayama is that you pay up front and they'll try to acquire the part through their network (they are a broker)...it may take days, weeks, or months, or never happen at all. The pinion appears to fall under that latter grouping, it price wise is about the same. The assembly appears to be available and can ship quicker.
  13. My truck had them when I bought it used, and eventually I landed on a rock hard enough to push the slider into the rocker panel and shift it upwards. There’s basically no gap anymore where the corner of the door meets on the hinge side. Generally speaking, I was never a fan of the use of large self-tapping bolts and drilling into the pinch weld seam to mount them, but any other approach would require specific mounts. This was generic enough. I eventually chopped off the mounts from OE QX4 side steps, plated them up, and welded them to the sliders to mount on OE spots. I did something similar for R50JR’s truck with Trail Gear sliders and R50 steps. They’re a little different in drop height; my sliders still tuck up pretty high, which I prefer.
  14. @fleurysI pulled a bleeder screw off my old 04 drums with OE Akebono cylinders; Nissan says it uses the same bleeder. I measure it as M7x1.0mm x 30mm (total length, 10mm of thread), 8mm hex head. If that's all true, Dorman 12708 (32mm, 2-pack) or 484-149.1 (34mm, 1-pack) seems to be the answer.

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