DonutHands

Maybe my idle is just too low?? Its a VG33 and when in gear its about 6-625.

Well, battery voltage and alternator voltage were just fine. Took it to a parts store and they tested the alternator, which said it had failing diodes or something like that. So figured what the hell, 27 year old alternator, sure lets replace it. Just wrapped that up and yay! Same. Damn. Issue. Any other thoughts?

Well apparently its not just the heater (not running AC). So its raining here in Los Angeles, so it also cuts out when the headlights and windshield wipers are on at the same time. I see the RPM dip ever so slightly, then it cuts out.

Any ideas? When the heater is turned on the engine RPM dips ever so slightly, and apparently when idle thats enough to make the engine stumble and shut off.

Part number should be this 80999-VE000 and I purchased these https://www.amazon.com/OTUAYAUTO-50Pcs-80999-VE000-Panel-Clips/dp/B08MZFS5Y8 But they don't fit. Rather not spend $60 on OEM ones.

Damn, was hoping to find some answers in this post for my issue. My 97 starts sputtering and dying a little before the needle hits E, gas light has never come on. I can also only put in 15 gal.

Anyone know what the hell I have to do to get this readiness code set? Been driving for a couple weeks and its the only thing holding me back from getting my smog check.

As far as I can tell, the links you posted up are for specific parts of the parts diagram on the same page. They do not include all parts shown in the image.

Rear muffler is gone, the rest is decently rusty, so want to just swap out the whole thing behind the cats. I often order parts from rockauto but I don't see a full exhaust package and ordering piece by piece would be much more than buying the whole thing elsewhere. Just wondering if anyone has a recommendation. Also found my exhaust leak under the hood. Cracked manifold. https://imgur.com/a/3HoU3uf Has anyone used JB Weld fiberglass wrap or high temp putty for something like this? Not as a permanent fix, but I need to get smogged ASAP. I have time for an exhaust replacement, but not digging under the hood to replace the manifold at the moment.

It’s generally caused by the rear upper and/or lower trailing arms.

Clutch engages just fine when relay is bypassed. The issue is when the AC is turned on from the cabin climate controls the clutch/compressor is not turned on. Im mechanically sound, something is up with the electrical side.

Well this is lame, AC used to click on, but pulley was noisy as all hell and didn't blow cold. A mechanic decided to remove the belt for me while they were dealing with a suspension issue a while back. So I finally replaced the AC compressor pulley, put it all back together and the AC wont turn on now. I press the button on the dash and the clutch does not engage. I also do not have a light on the AC dash button, although the dials do light up for vent selection/temp/speed. After going down the wrong rabbit hole for a bit, i decided to pull the fuse, which looks good. I then pulled the relay in the engine bay and jumped the contacts and the AC clutch engages perfectly. I suppose I should go out and see if there is a matching relay to swap in to test that first, but if thats not it, any obvious places to check? Could the mechanic have disabled the AC from coming on somewhere else since they removed the belt?

I just replaced the AC compressor clutch and pulley as my bearing was also grinding quite a bit. Once the belt is off, it was easy to spin the pulley and verify the bearing was making all the racket. I replaced these parts outright with this same set from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-Clutch-fits-Infiniti-QX4-Nissan-Pathfinder-1YW-R57423/383468027662 I already tossed the old parts but can confirm that the bearing could be replaced but it is held into the pulley by the metal of the pulley being smashed inwards. Similar to this pic So you would have to un smash or dremel these bits down to remove the bearing, then replace and re smash the edges. I didn't want to attempt this, nor do i have a press for the bearing so I purchased the whole thing assembled. Not sure if any parts are different on the 3.5L as mine is 3.3L from 1997

Of course the clutch disc does not recess fully into the pulley. I’m also doing this with the compressor installed and already put the pulley and snap ring on, no easy feat with all no other disassembly of the car. Came with 6 spacers. I think only 2-3 fell out when I removed the original. I’m gonna throw it on with 3 and go from there. Not super easy to R&R the disc over and over testing but I think it’s my best option with everything assembled at this point. Bleh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’m putting on the new pulley and clutch and the replacement came with shims/washers. In general I have found the correct space to be .3-.6mm and would set as such. Problem is. The clutch is recessed in the pulley so there is no way to measure the gap. Not sure why to do here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk