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Everything posted by DonutHands

  1. Anyone know what the hell I have to do to get this readiness code set? Been driving for a couple weeks and its the only thing holding me back from getting my smog check.
  2. As far as I can tell, the links you posted up are for specific parts of the parts diagram on the same page. They do not include all parts shown in the image.
  3. Rear muffler is gone, the rest is decently rusty, so want to just swap out the whole thing behind the cats. I often order parts from rockauto but I don't see a full exhaust package and ordering piece by piece would be much more than buying the whole thing elsewhere. Just wondering if anyone has a recommendation. Also found my exhaust leak under the hood. Cracked manifold. https://imgur.com/a/3HoU3uf Has anyone used JB Weld fiberglass wrap or high temp putty for something like this? Not as a permanent fix, but I need to get smogged ASAP. I have time for an exhaust replacement, but not digging under the hood to replace the manifold at the moment.
  4. It’s generally caused by the rear upper and/or lower trailing arms.
  5. Clutch engages just fine when relay is bypassed. The issue is when the AC is turned on from the cabin climate controls the clutch/compressor is not turned on. Im mechanically sound, something is up with the electrical side.
  6. Well this is lame, AC used to click on, but pulley was noisy as all hell and didn't blow cold. A mechanic decided to remove the belt for me while they were dealing with a suspension issue a while back. So I finally replaced the AC compressor pulley, put it all back together and the AC wont turn on now. I press the button on the dash and the clutch does not engage. I also do not have a light on the AC dash button, although the dials do light up for vent selection/temp/speed. After going down the wrong rabbit hole for a bit, i decided to pull the fuse, which looks good. I then pulled the relay in the engine bay and jumped the contacts and the AC clutch engages perfectly. I suppose I should go out and see if there is a matching relay to swap in to test that first, but if thats not it, any obvious places to check? Could the mechanic have disabled the AC from coming on somewhere else since they removed the belt?
  7. I just replaced the AC compressor clutch and pulley as my bearing was also grinding quite a bit. Once the belt is off, it was easy to spin the pulley and verify the bearing was making all the racket. I replaced these parts outright with this same set from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-Clutch-fits-Infiniti-QX4-Nissan-Pathfinder-1YW-R57423/383468027662 I already tossed the old parts but can confirm that the bearing could be replaced but it is held into the pulley by the metal of the pulley being smashed inwards. Similar to this pic So you would have to un smash or dremel these bits down to remove the bearing, then replace and re smash the edges. I didn't want to attempt this, nor do i have a press for the bearing so I purchased the whole thing assembled. Not sure if any parts are different on the 3.5L as mine is 3.3L from 1997
  8. Of course the clutch disc does not recess fully into the pulley. I’m also doing this with the compressor installed and already put the pulley and snap ring on, no easy feat with all no other disassembly of the car. Came with 6 spacers. I think only 2-3 fell out when I removed the original. I’m gonna throw it on with 3 and go from there. Not super easy to R&R the disc over and over testing but I think it’s my best option with everything assembled at this point. Bleh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. So I’m putting on the new pulley and clutch and the replacement came with shims/washers. In general I have found the correct space to be .3-.6mm and would set as such. Problem is. The clutch is recessed in the pulley so there is no way to measure the gap. Not sure why to do here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Ha. Ok. I’m guessing the oem one has that double extension as well. Once the first pole came out I stopped when I hit significant resistance. Sorry for the dumb post all. Have only dealt with floor jacks and scissor jacks in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. On my 97, the bottle is the factory jack under the seat! I think i could add another inch of wood underneath the jack and still slide it under, but after already trying, I don't think a couple more inches would help.
  12. Was going to swap out some wheels, first time using the bottle jack since my HF jack was stolen. It does not lift the tires off the ground, even added a little over 3 inches of height with wood underneath. Wheels tires are stock right now...
  13. That’s why I’m here asking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 75% off is the only reason Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Found some shocks with 360/80 valving at a great price. Is this valving terribly different than the recommended 255/70? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Lol. You say think about it for a second. Sounds like you way over thought this one. Like as a serious hobby, the R50 is a poor choice to put a bunch of money into as it will always have limitations due to its unibody construction and poor aftermarket support. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Yea. But almost no one here is into serious off roading. And really if some one is spending that kind of cash on this platform, it’s a pretty big mistake in terms of return on investment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. So, fuel pickup or breather/vent tube... any pointers, diagrams, posts on checking or replacing these parts?
  19. Pretty sure the fuel filter is new-ish. Its located somewhere above the pumpkin right? If so, it's the only shiny thing under the car at this point. Ill have to check the fuel pump. I don't expect to get every last drop of gas out of it, but being starved for fuel at 16gal without the light coming on sure sounds wrong to me.
  20. Happens every time, the fuel gauge is just shy of touching the 'empty' white line and the car starts sputtering and surging as its running out of fuel. The low fuel light never comes on, but when i go to fill the tank up, it only takes 16 gallons. Where the hell is the rest of the gas?
  21. Thanks R50JR, those vids were super helpful. Gonna be going with the same part numbers Fonze is using. Seems to be the go to parts for a close to 2” lift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I had a question. That’s why I posted. If you read, you can tell I have done some digging but still have questions. You seem to have posted ‘try searching’, but without even making the effort to say that. Thanks, thanks so much for your contribution. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Why waste your time? Like what was the point of that at all? Just in a mood, eh? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. So the front suspension AC springs and KYB shock part numbers are easy enough to find on here for the common 2" lift. The rear 2" lift parts, I'm not so sure about. Bilstein 5125 seems to be the series, but 33-xxxxxx ??? LR springs, 9xxx ??? Some folks are running different variations of the parts above for different reasons, so I guess im looking for the most common tried and tested parts for an ~2" lift in the rear.

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