DonutHands

Lol, my rear muffler completely disconnected today due to rust. No real change in exhaust note, only reason I noticed was due to the think knocking around.

I don’t believe there are any SFD kits commercially available currently. There are 2 guys on here that might eventually come out with one. There is no ETA for this as far as I know. Most I’ve seen are completely custom. So if you want to lift today with parts off the shelf. 2 inches is the safe maximum using longer springs. Shock and strut replacement is recommended at the same time.

Looking at something similar myself but for swapping out seats completely. I have not taken the seats out yet, but the mounting feet look like they can be removed without too much trouble. Just need to rig up a way to move the entire seat back a few inches then re attach to the feet. Maybe 6 inches of flat bar steel per corner some holes and hardware would do the trick.

Bolt orientation really didn't worry me, but combined with the different top mounting position/angle, didn't know if that changed the length of shock required.

Where is the best place behind the dash to grab the reverse signal to turn on a backup camera? Also, is there a way to remove the motorized antenna and replace with a screw in fixed type? The antenna is snapped off right at the base. I tried unscrewing the top chrome cap as it kinda looks slotted to do so, but it just spins forever.

Just making sure. I own a 97 and I parked next to a 00-04 pathfinder today. Of course I checked it out a bit comparing a few things. I noticed that the rear upper shock mount positions are different and the bolt orientations are different as well. They still use the same shocks though?

Shop took care of it. Probably took them 10 min, but without a lift and proper leverage that one bolt would not give. Crazy how the wobble was actually worse with only one bad arm than it was with 4 bad arms.

Well, got it 3/4 of the way done. Unfortunately one of the bolts was replaced with something non oem and is completely frozen in place. Looks like there was some damage to one of the mounts and some big washers were put in as well. Gonna have to take it to a shop for this one. I thought maybe the wobble would be 3/4 of the way gone but it is still pretty significant even with 3 new arms in place.

Thanks all, sounds like I will be waiting till i can use my friends driveway to tackle this. I do have replacement nuts and bolts on hand that I will be installing all around.

Found a couple videos for the upper and lowers. Looks pretty straight forward aside from running into seized bolts of course. So my question is, can the uppers and lowers be done on the ground with wheels on?

Sounds like it's time to epoxy the whole thing shut permanently.

Out of the blue the ABS pump came on and wont stop even when the ignition is off. ABS dash light on as well. Had to pull a fuse to get it to stop. Any ideas? Certain relay or connector that usually goes or needs to be cleaned? I tried searching, but i think ABS is too short of a search term for the forum.

@R50JR well, should have looked closer at the lengths they show. anyways, will be just cutting of the ends of the longer ones. @hawairish From what I have found, the longer bolt is actually part 54368-0W02A, and is the cheaper one at $2.50 each. I guess I will know for sure in a couple days when they get here.

Nope. Got all the same length. Found a post stating where I should cut off the break away ends before installing in a couples places. Figured this would be fine seeing that 4x4 parts only ships one size as well.

Ended up getting 8x nuts and bolts for $42.22 shipped from https://www.courtesyparts.com/

Ended up ordering just the 4 rear arms to start. Those are now sitting here ready to be installed. Is there anywhere else to order the bolts from at a better price? 4x4parts is $66 shipped.

Nope, what you are saying makes the most sense of course, but like i said, belt slips over the pulley when clutch is not engaged. Once clutch engages the belt catches on the outer pulley and the whole thing spins.

Pretty significant wobble going on, have no idea what is the actual cause but would the following take care of it? Do these kits have too much, would I be wasting my time replacing some of these? Is this shop/brand any good? https://www.1aauto.com/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-steering-and-suspension-kit-10-piece-set-trq-psa58677/i/1asfk00515?f=560399&y=1997 https://www.1aauto.com/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-suspension-kit-6-piece-set/i/1asfk05192?f=1128878&y=1997 I contemplated just replacing with poly bushings, but stuff is rusty and the time to burn and chisel out the existing stuff sounds like a bad use of my time. Also, I would assume any common problem bolts will be actual problems for me. Is there a good place to pickup pre assembled bolt kits?

yup, engine running the pulley does not rotate until ac is on. not the worst noise, but yea, louder than it should be. It spun pretty freely before putting the belt on. Guessing I need to just tighten the tensioner.

AC works! It cools poorly, but it works. Will be attempting to top off whatever refrigerant is in there currently. Strange though, belt slips over the compressor pulley when the AC is off but is ok when AC is on.

Compressor pulley moves freely when engine off. Started it up, turned on the AC and carefully rotated the pulley again, clutch or whatever the center piece is locked and rotated with the pulley. Picked up the $17 belt and will install later tonight. Fingers crossed, its been over 90 degrees here!

New to me '97 only blows hot air, first thought was to stop by the auto parts store and grab a can of R134a and see how it goes. Decided to pop the hood and well, there is no belt at all for the compressor. Pulleys spin by hand without too much friction. Is there any reason not to throw a new belt on? Would there be some other reason for this belt to be removed? Also, is there a good online parts guide or repair manual? More posts to come for sure, this R50 has just about every common failure I see posted on here...