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Finally have a couple of new updates. Installed front & mid skid plates as well as a missing link from SF Creation. I had the front plate, and missing link powder coated by Steve, but left the mid in raw aluminum. Also got a rear window molle panel that a guy who is local to me was fabricating and selling them in one of the Pathfinder Facebook groups. He sells them in raw aluminum, but I went ahead and painted them in rattle-can bed liner. Install was a bit of a pain, and made me wish I had an additional arm to hold the thing in place (he doesn't pre-drill the holes etc. so you have to mock it up etc.). Came out pretty good in the end though. I also got a gift certificate for Weather Tech for my birthday, and since I already have their mats and rear cargo liner I opted to try out their seat back protectors to gain some additional storage options. They are not cheap but as with all Weather Tech products they are made in the USA & are very high quality. They don't install the way that is intended on the seat bottom so I routed the straps underneath the brackets that bolt the seats to the floorboard, and it worked great.

Coastal Offroad makes a weld it yourself kit that I believe is winch ready - https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-category/1996-2004-pathfinder/ Other popular option would be ARB

This smells like some Facebook bull@!*%. Don’t bring that @!*% here.

You're not wrong, it is a lot of money, but this isn't an amazon Curt rack. OP spent a lot of time for R&D. It's a nice rack for a market that doesn't exist for the R50. I know you were not trying to be a jerk but consider the work that goes into something like this before commenting... or at least ask why the cost. Do you also make these tents?

Well, okay so first of all it's made in Canada, designed from scratch by myself, CNC cut from 1/4" aluminium and powder coated locally. Now if you think it should be cheaper, I will surprise you, my cost per rack is pretty close to 80% of the price I'm selling it for. Aluminium prices have been high recently, labour is not cheap in BC, I'm not skimping and use stainless steel high quality hardware, I took 4 prototypes to get it exactly how I wanted it and make a good fit. It comes with custom made brackets, an installation manual and is designed to fit all R50 roof rails as it's a simple bolt on style rack. I won't even start on tents, the one you're seeing in the picture Im selling for $2900CAD and guess what, I do sell them at this price fairly easy. Unfortunately there are no alternatives to roof racks for R50s and so I took my after work free time, spent it in front of the computer and taking tons of measurments, designed it and built it. If I added my hourly rate to the cost, it would've been more but since it's my side fun project I cam out with the price most people agreed was fair and all customers so far have been happy with the racks and the quality. These things are not cheap but I guarantee they will outlast all R50s out there and will not break, rust or fall apart. I also have some discounted racks with minor imperfections but since I really don't appreciate your tone and stereotypical jokes, I'll ask you to move on and search for alternatives. And since I know there are no alternatives really, good luck building your own

They look great!

Here are some photos of happy customers. I still have two full rack and two discounted sets (very very minor imperfections). Shipping available anywhere in Canada or the US.

Wow it’s been some time! I was browsing the r50 section to see what might be new and I figured I might as well throw up an update in case anyone cares. The truck is now at 320,000 miles, still going strong. Worst thing to happen since my last update was an small evap leak, everything else works like new. I’ve got a code for the swirl control system but haven’t been able to track it down yet. Doesn't affect drivability as far as I can tell, so it’s likely one of the million parameters involved in its operation is slightly out of spec for what the system is looking to see. I’ve tested the valve itself and the vacuum lines around it, no issues. Eventually Ill need to sort it out so I can pass emissions, but whatever it’s on the back burner for now. There’s a slight weep from the rear diff, most likely the pinion seal. I need to do the rear wheel bearings, drums, and axle seals all together so I’m planning it for some time over the summer. My girlfriends 4runner needs that same treatment but a little more desperately since her drums are soaked in gear oil so it takes priority over mine at the moment. My engine still leaks oil like crazy, no matter which stop leak I use. I gave up at some point and now I just run maxlife blend 10w-40 which seems to keep it under control better than the mobile 1 did. If I’m driving it a lot every day I go through about a quart per week, but luckily I’m working from home these days so I can keep the oil consumption to a minimum. I also changed the radiator and hoses, along with the two front cam position sensors and fan+clutch as preventative maintenance. Got the front shaft U-joints swapped out and balanced by a driveline shop so there’s no more rumbling on the highway. In the late fall my dad and I took the two pathfinders out to the Logandale trail network outside of Vegas to blast through the sandy canyons a bit. Super fun spot, but my skinny tires were a little bit out of their comfort zone in some of the really deep sand. Especially because the tread depth is getting pretty low. I’ve had the tires since March 2020 I think? So probably 35K miles at least, with about 6-10 months of usable tread left at this rate. My JEGS jerry can go stolen from the back of the truck over the winter. Some bastard cut the ratchet strap while it was parked. People are getting desperate with the gas prices being the way they are. So when I replaced the can I also built in a simple swing open locking mechanism to keep casual thieves from trying. It’s not impenetrable obviously, but so far no one has messed with it. I also got a nice set of seat covers so I don’t have to look at the ugly cuts and tears in my seats anymore. I think they look great now A few weeks ago I welded up some basic low profile rock sliders to help deflect the odd boulder that might want to smack the rocker panels this summer. They mount up using the original mounts for the side steps like most other guys have done. The only exception is the middle bracket had to be modified to get the right height. I tested them with my jack and they’re easily strong enough to use for lifting a wheel. My goal was to lose as little ground clearance as possible, so I made them fit nice and tight to the body, with just enough gap to be able to flex slightly upwards under load without touching. It’s a very basic setup but I’m happy to have that extra bit of protection just in case. You can hardly even tell they’re there In preparation for the season I also swapped out my rusted and damaged smitty trail jack for a hi lift extreme 48” which is much nicer quality and should last forever. I plan to keep it covered in WD40 to keep the rust away and I wipe on a light coat every couple weeks. I’ve padlocked it to the mount just in case Last but not least, I noticed my driver side CV was starting to rattle when I was going over small bumps. At first it sounded like something was loose in the suspension but it turned out to be the inner joint. When I tried to turn the shaft back and forth by hand it had noticeable play. Being that I didn’t want to break it on the trail again like last year, I swapped it out for a new one. The brand is GSP I think? Fairly cheap. Absolutely zero binding at full droop, even with no sway bar, and it’s actually so smooth I had to double check that my hub was really engaged. Time will tell if it lasts, but overall it seems to be good quality. I just wish I had the motivation and time to swap my Rockford boots onto it. From what I can tell, this one seems to be in the pre-facelift style with the round flange rather than the tri-flange shape, which I believe means it should have a slightly better range of motion (provided its made to OE spec) because I think I read somewhere the earlier models had slightly longer struts. Anyway, I think that just about covers everything I’ve done in the last several months. Next up this year Ill be redoing the rear bumper with plate steel now that I have a garage again. Even though mine is still functional, I’m sick of the plastic bumper cover. Then maybe I’ll look into some aluminum skids and a locker. It’s shaping up to be an awesome summer, I’m super excited to hit the trails again.

Disregard. I found it. This forum is not helpful at all.

I’ve bought a couple of things from Fleury and he makes good quality stuff. His missing link is robust.

Good points, I agree as to the cost factor. Problem is it can't be cheaper if I make a few of them only. It would be cheaper in mass production obviously but like you said there's no need for that. My 15 racks are almost gone now and my next batch will be 5 likely. With aluminum and labor cost being historically high and all covid issues, my profit margin on these has shrunk down to be enough to pay for gas money and my rack really. I just took it as an after work fun project and make an alternative to very limited options. My original plan was to get a few of the rhino rack crossbars for my rooftop tent but if I wanted 4, it would cost me roughly $1000CAD so I figured I build my own. There, for another $500 you get 8 crossbars, wind fairing, 100% rust resistance, more attachment options and lower profile while supporting a couple small businesses. Anyways, I'm hoping to keep a few in stock for those who decide to get them, might even spend some time on improvements for 2nd batch, I'll update here! Also, a lot of people asked me to make one for 2nd gen Xterra, that might be a slightly bigger market maybe. Side note, I was going to do skid plates too locally to not have people pay for shipping but aluminum sheets prices made it not worth it, SFCreation shipped is pretty much the same money now so I'll just grab one of his and support his R&D.

I, too, would like to know which brand of spring you used in the rear that sagged so quickly. I am going to buy springs soon and want to avoid what you used.

Hey R50 people! You might have seen my posts on Facebook groups or instagram, but I also wanted to be present here as I've enjoyed browsing this forum numbers of time. Those of you who don't know me, I'm based in Vancouver BC Canada and I created a sweet roof rack for all R50 models. I was inspired by Prinsu obviously and since there are no aftermarket solutions for R50 I decided to make my own rack. Please check out some details, information, manual and more photos at my google drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14yxt2aZX2_KDKsw74M9Ft5XpMms7hF-H?usp=sharing Let me know if you have any questions! I've sold a few already so you might start seeing those racks on R50s! Thanks! Pawel

Loose or dirty battery connection, especially ground?

Off topic for this thread but this seems to be what you are looking for - https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/arb-sahara-bar-black-3938040/_/R-BHWQ-3938040

Yeah well, shipping assembled bumper would be painful. As far as I know they sell it ready to weld and can keep shipping cost relatively low, maybe if you came to their office in vancouver they could weld one up for you. I think that’s as high clearance as you can get for custom bumpers on r50 and they come with optional skid plate. Pricey but now after fabricating the racks I understand these things can’t be cheap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coastal off-road make great front bumpers and the r&d behind them is huge! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, fine sir. Seeing the quality of the rack, and it is pretty. How about a bumper system, or a front bumper. Winch capable, bull bar, 6" LED blinkers, and I'd gladly pay $1500 for that. R50s need those, really, rilly, bad. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

The column covers always do that. Weak brittle screw posts. Probably doesn't help that it's in a prime spot to get smacked by knees. Mine wasn't worth putting back on, so I made a metal one instead. It ain't pretty, but it's stout. Can't help with the fungus, that's nasty. Hopefully there isn't a great gob of that inside the switch.

Dis some FB BS.

Truthfully, 90-95% of Pathfinder owners are not the target market. That’s the reason why there isn’t a market for stuff like this. Most Pathfinder/Nissan owners would own a Toyota or Jeep if they could afford it. Very few people are actual Nissan fans and simply buy because they’re cheap or couldn’t find something else. Buying roof rack that is 1/4 of the value of a car may not even be a smart decision in the long run. Still, I’m sure the amount of work OP has put in was exhaustive.

this project still around? i did a ka24de-t and lived to tell about it Project:kade-t/wd21 pathfinder (ironhide) - Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums

Here are some more photos of my setup!

worst case, I can pull the one out of the 1990 and ship it to you.

When I replaced my soft lines, I cut the ends off the old hoses and welded them up to make caps. Overkill for sure but it works great. You can also prop the gas pedal down a little (a photography monopod works great for this) so the master blocks fluid from draining, though I haven't used this method in a while. I prefer knowing air can't get in there even if it wanted to.

I can't find a photo for that part #, I'm guessing it's the one with the twist knob at the end for the wiper frequency? I've got a spare wiper switch, but it's off a base model Hardbody, so it doesn't have the intermittent function. I haven't checked whether the plug is the same. (Edit: just checked, yep, same plug. Plugged it into my '93, works fine. The intermittent function is a separate two-pin plug.) Gonna have to be more careful with mine. I didn't realize they were unobtanium.

I was going to say there's no way this primitive ABS system could tell if the rear brakes were working, but I just checked the service manual and among the codes you'd expect there's a code just marked "other" (code 5). The diagnostic procedure for "other" is to overhaul the rear brakes, and if that doesn't do it, replace the ABS brain. The manual offers no further explanation. There's no cutaway or hydraulic diagram for the actuator, probably because they didn't expect anyone to take it apart. The electrical diagram shows an unmarked switch inside the actuator that I would lay money is a shuttle or a pressure switch or something of that nature, and would explain this mystery code, if only they'd been bothered to label it. So, yeah, I don't know how it knew what was wrong, but it sounds like it did, and you did exactly what the manual calls for! Mine was boring. It just coded for an open speed sensor circuit when it got wet.

Finished up putting all new fuel injectors in and replacing valve cover gasket. First time I ever had the intake off. Other than the coolant lines that I ended up cutting off, not that bad. I replaced those with some silicone hoses. #2 was dead and had another one, #4 I think it was, that was on it's way out. Truck is running so much better now, obviously much smoother, with a lot more power. Glad I did all six. I used new injectors - SMP brand (blue dot).

Ok so update: Carrier #1: I've been informed that this tire swing only fits WD21 pathfinders (pre-1996) Carrier #2: Confirmed, this tire swing will fit any 96-04 pathfinder. Thanks r50JR and ZackZack. I've been toying with the swing arm + hitch extension combo with the mounted tire swing. Seems like it'd work super well and come out clean, however definitely not cheap. If anyone knows of someone looking for a WD21 tire swing, send them my way! I'd sell this thing for real cheap, just need it gone at this point haha. Thanks team, send questions my way if needed.

Thank you Slartibarfast!

'95 manual says 80-108 lb/f.

Bye. - Yours Truly Facebook Npora Moderator Facebook Nissan Pathfinder Owners Club Moderator Facebook World Wide Wd21 Owners Moderator Facebook Nissan Pathfinder Admin