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  1. 16 mpg on a misfire...I'd be happy to see that on my truck! But ultimately, a misfire will absolutely affect mileage. Since cylinder #4 (the "04" in P0304) is easily accessible on the engine (driver's side), you could at least swap the #2 and #4 coil packs to see if the problem travels, and pull the #4 spark plug to check its condition and replace if warranted. Those two actions would at least rule out spark issues. Air and fuel you can't really check without tearing down the top of the engine a bit, but maybe a borescope might show something. In tracking down my own engine issues in recent years, a smoke machine proved super valuable in finding leaks. Maybe run a fuel system treatment for a tank or two in case it's something with the injector. Unlikely the code is tied to clogged cat. Two other cylinders exist on the engine bank, so you'd throw a bank-specific cat or O2 sensor code instead.
    2 points
  2. One year later and I'm basically back where I started and am deciding to go a different direction... Just kidding. But damn, it's been a year as of yesterday. Year+ being a leap year, too. Progress lately has been great, though. If you didn't notice in the pic, the engine is now resting on the subframes as of last night. Pretty big milestone. This is how they turned out. Not sure if I explained it previously, but the subframes use the existing subframe attachments, but both sides also have a 1/2" bolt running perpendicular through the chassis rail (tubed holes), between the front u-bolts, to hold the subframe tight against the chassis rail. Driver's side has an additional support bracket welded to the plate on the inner rail near to create a rectangular bolt pattern with the u-bolt. This is all to bear the push-pull stress of having the panhard mount. The long bolts shown by the bump stops will be for the limit straps. For now, I've added some additional weld nuts to the lower perches so that I can build some sort of missing link and transmission pan skid plate when the time comes. Chopped up the fan shroud last night. Months ago I was hoping to heat and shape the shroud around the steering box, but that turned out like dogshyt. Going to rivet on some ABS sheet, should turn out a lot better. CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) process... This should help things run as cold as the Rockies. Other things done over the last two weeks, in no particular order: Radius arms torn down for bushing replacement and painting. Need to install new bushings. Water pump changed. Old pump seemed ok, but with the mild cooling issues I was having, this was one of two remaining things I had not replaced... Radiator mounts moved over a little...except after doing all the work, it feels like I didn't move them over at all. So that sucks, but the radiator is in a good spot. New radiator in. Two of two things I had not replaced. Still sorting out the power steering lines, but I basically have all the parts needed. Not sure I'll be able to route the line how I wanted, but I have some options. Went with a PTFE fuel line kit and 6AN fittings. Figuring out all I need has been a bit of a PITA, but I think I'm 95% of the way there in terms of parts. Rebuilt the power steering pump. I thought the thing was black, but after cleaning all the sludge that had accumulated on it over its life, I realized it was silver aluminum. Whoops. Tore apart the Rubicon sway bar the other week. A little sludgy inside, but it'll clean up well enough. Need to order the pneumatic bits to finish it up. New headlights and corner markers installed. The other ones just needed to go. Yellowing, cracks, etc. New ones look great. Cracked my washer fluid reservoir...mistook it for something to grab onto when trying to get off the ground. Fluid spilled on my cheap digital caliper, which wasn't good for it. I was more bummed by that chain of events than a grown man should be. Need someone to explain why washer reservoirs are $100...or $200 on ebay. That's a junkyard trip I wasn't hoping to make.
    2 points
  3. I just converted my 2003 SE from auto to manual. I've been meaning to join here and post about it. I bought a local 2002 manual transmission and rebuilt it with new bearings and synchros then summer 2024 I installed it. I didn't have a parts car. Started collecting parts in 2020 including calling small-town Alberta Canada junkyards because Nissan didn't sell manual 03-04 models in the US. Not all of the OEM parts are available any more. But Beerett yours is a 2000 so like others have said, I'd recommend you find a domestic manual trans for parts. Is it the 3.3 or the 3.5, 3.3 is easier you can follow that guide above. I needed a Canadian ECU and to deal with NATS. The flywheel signal plate is different for 01-02 (cable throttle) and 03-04 (elec throttle). And obviously the VG33 flywheel is not compatible with the VQ35. I've manual-converted other cars but I wouldn't say this is easy. Unless you specifically want a manual, fixing the auto might be easier.
    2 points
  4. Just to close this out. The differential was installed over the weekend. Have been driving it in the snow for the last couple of days. Totally unrelated; somehow one of the bleeder valves for the brakes got galled and didn't seal at all after being put back together. Fixed that by chucking it up in a drill and cleaning the bur/gouge off with a file (Probably related to being 33yo). New ones are on the way. One injector decided to seize. It took about 4-5 warm up and cool down cycles in order for it to free up. After all of that, everything seems to be running great except Some vibration around 55-60mph that clears up >60mph.
    1 point
  5. @Lock Glad you found this useful! No ban on posting links. Amayama is a great source for these and many other parts that are difficult to acquire or not available here. In fact, I actually have two open orders with them right now. I have purchased clutch pieces from them in the past, though at some point the supply was exhausted, particularly for the thicker pieces. Looks like there are many in the UAE at higher/normal costs, but it's the less expensive supply from Japan that was always questionable or long lead times. As for the ramp-angle LSDs, those were in Patrols. There's not really as much of a difference between those styles and these in terms of functionality, though. The spider gears in ours will apply outward force on the side gears to compress the clutch pack, because the clutch pack rests directly on the side gear. In the Patrol units, the clutch pack rests entirely on those inner housings, which compress the pack when the cross-shaft ramps up on them, which means the side gears might not exert significantly on the housing (or it's a combination of both). In both cases, there's varying outward force when differential action occurs. Might also be the case where less, but bigger, clutch pieces has about as much friction as more, but smaller, clutch pieces. Speculation in the absence of factory specs and dimensions. That all said, I'd surely rather have the Patrol units because of the beef factor they add, but I'd be curious to know if it's a drastically better solution that what we have available. Just another thing I wish they'd have here.
    1 point
  6. CL-9 in the '95 manual shows the damper. Looking at the diagram, it's even simpler than I had assumed it was! I thought it was supposed to slow engagement if you pop the clutch, but it looks like it's just adding a little squish to the system. NVH thing? Probably unrelated to this issue, unless it's gone all to pieces inside and the debris was blocking the line back to the master. Now that I'm thinking about it, I've heard of rubber brake hoses failing like a check valve, so you can apply the brake, but it won't release. I haven't heard of a clutch hose doing that, but it sure does sound like what yours was doing. Ackshually the manual calls it an "Operating Cylinder," but, yeah, nobody else does. I've only ever seen/heard it called a slave cylinder.
    1 point
  7. I wanted to say thanks a ton for this write-up Hawairish. I followed this guide a lot. Couple of years ago I bought a weak Xterra center and put it in, then later took it out again, ordered some more plate and discs, and rebuilt it filling it out completely, it works amazing now. I don't know if there's a ban on posting links or companies, but I bought new friction discs and plates (and all my OEM stuff) from Amayama. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-usa/pathfinder/r50/1373-vq35de/power_train/380 Also, it was bugging me that these diffs don't have an adjustable 'ramp-angle' mechanism like a lot of other diffs and the earlier H233b models do. It didn't make sense how the clutches are engaged. I looked into it, and found a doc somewhere that said these Hitachi diffs have a 'fixed' gear setup. The side gears are cut in such a way that the more torque (axle vs center force) they encounter, the more they push away the spider gears, which in turn compresses the clutches and discs for more lock-up. Then the actual amount of lockup is adjusted by clutch discs, springs etc. which is why there's so many variations in the packing between models - and is all covered here. Excellent guide thanks!
    1 point
  8. New one on me. My first thought is heat soak (exhaust leak cooking the clutch hydraulics?) but I would expect that to prevent disengaging the clutch, not make it slip. Does yours still have the clutch damper? I've heard of those acting up. Haven't had to mess with one, given mine's got the slushbox.
    1 point
  9. QX4 and R50 are practically identical in every way. Key differences are generally the luxury items (interior trims, fancy headlight options), but everything else being the same. Biggest notable difference, specifically for 4WD models, is all QX4 have the full-time "all-mode" 4WD system, whereas only some Pathfinders have that system (generally the LE trim), with the rest getting a part-time system. The full-time system is all electrically actuated; shifting is done by a dial to select the drive mode between 2WD, Auto/AWD, and 4H/4L. Part-time system has a floor shifter. If you have no concerns with an electric transfer case, then you're good (you would want to do due diligence if a prospective purchase has any issues with the t-case; check for dash lights!). Suspension wise, they are identical with the exception of a few more vibration/noise/harshness items around the truck to help make it a "premium" ride. All parts are interchangeable. If you're new to the platform in general, the suspension is the biggest hang-up for it. Front McPherson struts make for a great ride, but also creates a complete lack of aftermarket support. Not even sure what's available these days beyond strut spacers to lift things. Old Man Emu front springs are the way to go if they're still available. A lot of people use a Land Rover springs for the rear. Overall, the drivetrain is solid in stock form. Very stout and practically identical to all Nissan trucks through 2005...and arguably stronger than anything Nissan produced after that. However, the R50/QX4 platform is an absolute bastard...Nissan made pretty much everything unique to the platform, despite being "identical" to other Nissan trucks/SUVs of the era. In a few ways it was actually better (high-pinion front axle, lower 4L gears in the all-mode transfer case), but at the same time, also worse because it's basically a one-off platform that no one supports. All said, QX4 is as great as any R50 because they're the same, but the platform at large may be limiting depending on what you want to do with it. If you think you'll want to modify it in terms of lifting or traction, I'd recommend looking elsewhere. Will it strand you? Probably not, unless you do something dumb. Notably, I've helped build up several of these trucks with lifts and lockers, including a sweet 02 QX4 that I'll see again in a few months, and can attest they're very capable vehicles. But I think the truck is long past its prime in terms of aftermarket support.
    1 point
  10. A friend and I hole-sawed his S10 Blazer's firewall to get to a bellhousing bolt. Then we did it again, a few inches over, because that's where the bolt actually was. Not our finest moment. (Or Chevy's finest moment, either, but that's the S10 for you.) If you do go for the hole saw, make sure you measure better than we did. Also make sure the hole saw and/or pilot drill aren't going to take out the harness when they break through. I've got a trans with this sensor in the corner, waiting to go into my '93. I think I just found something else to check before I install it!
    1 point
  11. Dude...your reply struck a total déjà vu moment...except it really happened! In fact, exactly one year ago, I replied to a thread on the Club Frontier forum about this exact same issue where ATF was unbelievably dripping from wiring insulation. I had forgotten all about the leaking through the insulation, only recalling the general nature of the failure. While I was typing my reply there, the topic starter had posted that he found the same issue on the Club Xterra forum. All these trucks use the same transmission, of course. This post shows the failure at the tip of the sensor. So, my money's on that sensor. Unfortunately, if it is that sensor, it's not cheap and not easy to replace. Unfortunately, part two, I decided to crawl under my truck to see what plugs are visible to confirm if I could see what you see. I see that my harness also shows a layer of grime on it...which is highly unfortunate because I just had the transmission down in 2023 and didn't notice it.
    1 point
  12. There are two temp sensors. The one for the dash is one-wire. The one for the computer has two. If the plug for the two-wire is damaged, that could well explain why it's running rich. If it's not the sensor, and it really is struggling to come up to temp, that suggests a stuck or missing thermostat, which could also explain it running rich. If you're looking for the plug for the one-wire, I would try a few sizes of spade terminal and see which one fits. I suspect the stock plug is just a spade terminal with a fancy plastic case on it.
    1 point
  13. That's a very helpful explanation! Honestly, I've never heard of a pull-type clutch like that. And very typical of Nissan to make this truck an absolute bastard in one more way (we already know this is the case with the R50...it shares practically NOTHING with any other VQ35DE model, except the exhaust manifold gaskets basically). Looking at pictures on RA for 02 R50s, I see what you mean. "Diaphragm style". Wild. I never knew. But yeah, that makes a lot more sense now. And that clutch literally only cross-refs to 01-02 R50. How stupid... Lastly, welcome to NPORA! Great info for an early post. As far as image hosting goes...there is none. If you want to post pictures here, you'll need to use a 3rd party image host and then link to it in the post (pasting a URL in the text field should auto load the image, similar to how I posted the RockAuto pic above).
    1 point
  14. Thank you for the tips. I had seen a couple others with similar leak state it's the sensor on top of tranny. Plug closest to front of car seems to have the drip. I saw one guy hole saw a spot under dash to get to thst sensor to replace. Seems like that could be a bit of an easier if not messier route to address it. I'm thinking of going that route to save the headache of dropping transmission. Leak isn't super bad currently so kinda holding off for now but I know it's inevitable. Tranny slips into 3rd gear when cold and have the rear main seal leak so the trifecta is nearly complete lol.
    1 point
  15. I know this is an old thread and OP has probably resolved the issue, but I wanted to share that I get where they're coming from in the FSM. The Pathfinder unlike other VQ35DE cars has a pull clutch, so the release/throwout bearing 'clicks and locks' into place when you install the transmission. When using the clutch, it pulls the release bearing/pressure plate fingers away from the engine to release, instead of a regular push clutch/pressure plate which obviously push the fingers towards the engine. Apparently this provides more clutch force with less clutch pedal effort but it's a more complicated system. This is also why the Pathfinder has a unique flywheel that no other VQ35DE uses. Can't use a 350Z flywheel - I tried, the surface is a few inches too 'high'. So reading the FSM it looked weird and complicated to me. But when I did it it makes sense, all you're doing is letting the withdrawal lever/fork assembly all fall out and off of the release bearing, so the trans can be removed without being stuck on the release bearing. The release bearing stays locked in the pressure plate, and you remove it once the trans is off by lifting the collar and it comes out. It seems to be designed for multiple reinstalls. The fork hole is pretty small, but you can get at the pin with small pliers and then it all falls apart easily. But having installed it 3x because I bought the wrong flywheel twice, you can also just push the collar at the base of the release bearing/pressure plate in towards the engine with a long flathead screwdriver, and the release bearing is 'unlocked' and pops out still held in place by the release lever/fork too. I don't know how to post quality pictures here yet but they'd describe it a lot better.
    1 point
  16. Not immediately ringing bells, but I'll have a poke at the manual. What are the wire colors for that plug? Should help narrow it down.
    1 point
  17. Bonus post! (Long post...) Figure I'd keep this one separate from my last post since it's a pretty significant aspect of the project. Enough to warrant its own discussion. So, I bought a coilover. Just one, though. Going with a Fox 2.0 emulsion coilover. 10" travel (9.25" actual), 7/8" shaft. Fox seemed to be the best overall option...cost, parts availability, service availability (local). The thing I've learned is that each additional "feature" or upgrade on a coilover adds $50-$150 per shock. My "budget" Fox option was just under $300/ea, while the piggy back reservoir ones I wanted ran almost $500/ea. I'm seeing about 7" of vertical travel; 3" up and 4" down. Squeezing more up-travel would require lifting the truck more, and beyond the usefulness of using radius arms. Ride height should amount to about 7"-8" of lift from stock, which is still another 2"-3" above what I was running with the SFD. Numbers-wise, things are pretty much on target for my needs. Springs are the next thing I need to order (well, and another coilover...they only had one in stock at the site I went through at the time). I'll have a dual rate setup, which uses two springs, though it'll be unconventional setup I suppose. Rule of thumb is: The lower spring should be equal or longer in length than the upper spring. The lower spring should be equal or higher in spring rate than the upper spring. In a dual rate setup, there's a primary rate produced by both springs being in series, and then a secondary rate...which is just the rate of the lower spring because at some point, the upper spring will stop compressing. Problem with the conventional approach is that the secondary rate is always, at minimum, double the primary rate. For example, Calmini offered a 300 lb/in + 300 lb/in 10" coilover setup for their Xterra SAS kit. (This is about as best of a starting point as any considering the 1st Gen Xterra has almost the same curb weight as the R50 and loses and gains pretty much the exact same parts). A 300/300 spring set produces a 150 lb/in primary (it's not an average) and 300 lb/in secondary rate. But, that's what I don't like...the primary rate seems perfect, but then there's a 150 lb/in rate spike. Just seems like too much. I set some target rates around the stock numbers (150 lbs/in), OME numbers (200 lbs/in), and also on a few dual rate springs OME offered for similar vehicles. OME's dual rate gaps are closer to 40-120, which I'd like to think led to a far more comfortable ride setup (I do trust OME in this department). The only way to lower the gap is to put the heavier spring up top. So, that's probably what I'm going to do. Currently planning on a 9" 350 lb/in upper and 12" 250 lb/in lower. That'll give me a 146/250 setup. Notably, the OME MD setup for an FJ80 is 170/260, and 150/260 for a Pajero/Montero, which are fairly similar vehicles (FJ being a bit heavier). There's some other math involved, but I should be within the range I need to be. Unfortunately, if this approach flops, I'll learn a pretty valuable lesson about coilover springs. They're not cheap, but Summit has some options that'll shave a few bucks off.
    1 point
  18. Everything you want can be found here for free: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals "FSM" is for Factory Service Manual, and you can find them all published there. Note that for 93 WD21, the files there are apparently some other sort of procedural docs, but if you use the 94 WD21 files, those are the actual FSM pages. Torque specs are shown on parts diagrams throughout the section. Listing all torque specs isn't practical, but the FSM does also have a torque table in the General Information (GI) chapter that's based on bolt specs. That'll be your best table if you just need generic numbers.
    1 point
  19. I know, this generation is "new' to me i am fwwling very lonely Chevy trucks you dont see very often but there are many pickup trucks. But they are going to charge them with extra tax from this year so i think they will drive a citroen c1 next week
    1 point
  20. Hey man, I think just bought exactly the same car like you did 5 years ago. I am from holland and i am looking for some pathy geeks to exchange some ideas
    1 point
  21. Echoing 100% what Slartibartfast described and suggested. It would also help to know what voltage and/or resistance you were seeing at temperature because the FSM also specs a range. The table there only shows two reference points (3.5V/2.3-2.7kΩ @ 68°F, 2.2V/0.79-0.90kΩ @ 122F), but as I imagine NY is a bit colder than 68°F this time of year, you'll need to confirm resistance at ambient temp against the resistance chart, whether it's in acceptable range, and that the resistance decreases as the sensor warms up...measuring while submerged in tap water will suffice. I do suspect the sensor is fine, though, so you need to check resistance on both legs of the circuit as Slart described. FSM has the pin locations and troubleshooting steps. Good luck!
    1 point
  22. Thank you for that information. At least I have one more avenue to look at. This has really been driving me crazy,costing money, and keeping me off the road. I already racked up one expired inspection ticket, and with my limited income, I can't afford another one (not to mention the hit my insurance is probably going to take). I'll report back if I get this sorted out with all the particulars. Thanks again for a quick reply.
    1 point
  23. The '04 service manual (free download from Nicoclub) says P0183 means the computer is seeing a higher-than-expected voltage from the tank temp sensor circuit. EC-293 describes the code and says what the voltage should be. Looks like one side of the sensor goes to the cluster, and the other goes to the computer, so if you've only buzzed out the wiring to the cluster, looks like you have another one to chase. There's a diagnostic procedure starting on EC-296. Run through that and see if you get anywhere. I would also unplug the sensor and pump and make sure there's no continuity between the sensor and any other connection on the level sensor or the fuel pump, on the off chance something is crossed up internally. I don't know if this is even possible (looks like the connectors are separate and the sensor is a sealed unit), but it would be pretty quick to rule out.
    1 point
  24. The last of our kits will be liquidated soon. Once they're gone there won't be any future kits made. Expect an early 2025 release. Kits will be sold on a first come, first served basis with lower 48 shipping only. We will not take any orders until the remaining kits are completed and ready to ship. Stay tuned for the the final sale announcement and check out our YouTube channel for a highlight reel from our Moab trip where our gear is trail tested.
    1 point
  25. Hope you enjoy your trip! Be prepared for the fuel prices here if you do get out Looking forward to our next trip to the mainland (got a couple of trips to Hawaii beforehand). We will be heading to Austin as well as Houston, then way up to Pennsylvania to visit more of her family. Was surprised to see so many Pathfinders on the roads last we were there. Happy wheeling fellow Pathy's, hope everybody manages to get some exploring in over the holiday period! I know we will be hitting the trails this Southern Hemisphere summer.
    1 point
  26. Created an instagram for the build. Working on it the next few weekends. Hope to get it finished up-- the rear and driveline soon @meats_wd21 is the instagram How she sits today--
    1 point
  27. Sold it a few years ago, but got the chance to see it in person recently. lots has changed, but lots has remained the same.
    1 point
  28. Hey guys! Long time no chat. I have some interesting news. I was having all of these mysterious "transmission problems". I got so pissed that I swore it's going to the 'Ol junkyard. I left it alone for the last few months without the heart to put it down. I kept thinking about a friend who's my shop tech at work who said if the engine isn't running right, the tranny isn't going to either. I let that rattle around in the melon for a few and went out to start looking at the engine. I started it and just started touching wires, connections, pushing things, pulling etc. I grabbed the big harness across the front of the motor and the whole sound changed. I started looking at critical wires that were connected to it. I feel pretty foolish even writing this, but it shows you that a lot of the problems are right in front of you and look for the simple stuff first. Long story shorter, 4 out of 6 ignition coils wires were cracked. I went on Amazon and ordered pigtails for all 6, put them on and the truck is back!!! Running as strong as I've ever felt it. It's crazy to me how this thing would just shift down to 5th going down the road at 20mph but nothing wrong with the tranny. I guess it does make sense since it was running on 2 cylinders!! Thank you all for the help and efforts to get this beast back and rolling again. I appreciate the time you took to post to help me out. Next project is paint!!! Thanks again!!
    1 point
  29. Been pretty busy last while so not a whole lot to report. Hoping to get back at it in the next 2 -3 months.
    1 point
  30. Assembling the parts for the doubler
    1 point
  31. Been a while since I looked at this posting and notice there's been no comments for almost a year, but more than 2,000 views since my last posting. Lots of interest/curiosity, but no comments?
    1 point
  32. My honest opinion of doing a 350 or 302 v8 swap.....cut all the crap out & run the vehicle like an old school muscle car. No power windows, locks, A/C, etc. Remember, it's a wheeling rig. All you need is the engine, tranny, steering, suspension, tires, and a seat for your ass. That's what I'm planning on doing when the time comes. Doors off & possibly even the tailgate. Install roll cage & drive it like you built it to be driven/off-roaded.
    1 point
  33. That seems like it will work.
    1 point
  34. Let this announcement be a reminder to have a look at the images you display on the NPORA forums. Do they follow this policy? Are they the type of things that should be displayed on a family-friendly board. Thank you for your cooperation.
    1 point
  35. Welcome to NPORA This site is intended to help Pathfinder (and Terrano, Sani) owners around the world and our forums are open to anyone, but we have certain guidelines that you must adhere to or your privilages here will be revoked. We have Moderators who are constantly reviewing all posts to make sure that they are appropriate and they are authorized to remove posts, warn, and even ban those that refuse to honor our house rules. 1. Treat others with respect. Do not verbally abuse or attack any user on this forum. That includes belittling a person for asking a question that you consider too simple. We have users at all skill levels here and there is no such thing as a dumb question. 2. No profanity or explicit submissions. Do not attach inappropriate photos to any posts or profiles. This will result in warning and possible banning from site. There is a bad word filter in place that will take care of most inappropriate words. 3. Be careful with humor. Everyone likes a good joke, but on a forum it can be taken differently than it was intended, especially since we have members from all around the world. Often, humor does not translate well from one country to another. We have seen this where members from one country continuously tried to use sarcasm to joke and ended up having half of the members online turning on them. It can get ugly quick, so be careful... 4. If you do not know the answer, you don't have to answer. There is no shame in not knowing an answer, but if you misinform people it can hurt us all. 5. Do not post similar topics. For the sake of keeping it easy to navigate you are asked not to create a new post that is very similar to an existing one. Instead, you can reply to that thread IF you have something NEW to add. 6. Do not use this site to promote your own business or Website without the permission of an administrator, this will include links to external sites attempting to sell products and/or services to other forum members. No spam! 7. Respect the authority of all forum officials! If you have a legitimate issue with any Moderator, you are encouraged to contact an Administrator. This site has PM capabilities and you can send any member a private message. If there is a disagreement, we would much rather have you discuss it using PM and not airing it publicly on the forums for everyone to see. This is a non-commercial site and it is privately maintained and financed. It is here to help the Pathfinder community and for no other reason. Help us to make sure that it remains a fun and informative place for us all to enjoy. ADDENDUM 1: 1.1 - Please keep in mind that we have many users from many different walks of life, and conflicting viewpoints will occur. Treat each other with respect and courtesy, and there won't be any problems. 1.2 - No flaming! Flaming is the act of sending or posting messages that are deliberately hostile and insulting, usually in the social context of a discussion board on the Internet. 1.3 - Please try to use complete, coherent sentences in your posts. Syntactically correct posts are easier to read and comprehend. Punctuation, capitalization and proper (or close to it) spelling also helps readers understand your posts more clearly. 1.4 - There is ZERO TOLERANCE for personal attacks of any sort. This includes indirect attacks on groups of people based on race, creed, religion, nationality, or whether they prefer Pepsi or Coke, OK? 1.5 - We take the warning system very seriously. If you have recieved a warning, and are unclear as to why, politely PM a moderator or Administrator and we will explain it the best we can. 1.6 - If you have a problem with another user, keep it off the forums. If you bring it to the forums, not only will your posts be deleted, you will likely receive a warning. (Exception: Poor seller with no contact, posting in the classifieds as a LAST resort.) 1.7 - Please refrain from religious and overly political subject matter. 1.8 - Please do not fuel-the-fire if you are engaging in a debate/discussion by throwing your $0.03 (inflation ) in without anything to back up your arguments, or to, directly or indirectly, insult or demean another member of the site in any way. ADDENDUM 2: 2.1 - Please fill out the details in your user profile. It not only makes you seem like a real person with real knowledge and problems, it helps the other members on the forum help you.
    1 point
  36. I put in another new distributor, still getting the same issue. a possible reason is that a couple years ago, before this cylinder 5 misfire problem kept popping up, a rat made its den inside the engine bay and chewed through some wires and one of the plug wires. i reconnected the wires and replaced the whole spark plug wire set so I didn’t think it was a possible source of this problem ive attached a picture of the chewed through wires, anyone know what they do?
    0 points
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