Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2024 in all areas

  1. Finally got some time to go check out the condition of the trails. Hoping for a fun summer!
    3 points
  2. Just in case re-uploading doesn’t work! https://imgur.com/a/2dAgkpe?
    2 points
  3. Heat and torque. Aluminum and steel can get pretty stuck on each other. If it won't break free, try turning the other way, then back again. I got lucky on a brake line the other day by getting it hot and melting candle wax into it. Took a while, but came out without breaking anything.
    2 points
  4. I went ahead and ordered the Four Seasons 58440 compressor since adding A/C back onto my car was on the todo list. Sure enough it has the wrong connector. Looks like it's for an R50. It's a single wire and there is an insert explaining why it's a single wire. The old compressors (rotary vane style) were prone to overheating and were 2 wire with the internal temperature switch on the second wire/connector and the newer compressors (piston swash style) don't require this. Also included is a package of butt splice connectors with writing on the package indicating to use these to splice into the OEM wiring since the connectors may not match. So, there you go! It should work fine. I probably won't get to this for a couple more months but I plan to just go ahead and 'upgrade' my OEM compressor wiring by using a pigtail I'll cut off an R50 the next time I'm at the junk yard. I no longer have the original compressor; otherwise I'd just swap the connector over on the compressor side.
    1 point
  5. Looks good. Any more updates? I'm getting ready to possibly do this on my xterra but will mean I lose it for this wheeling season.
    1 point
  6. I've just got back into looking at this KA conversion. I have tried an early Z24 distributor and oil pump shaft and it fits! The Z24 oil pan also fits! In theory alI would need to run this NA would be a custom intake manifold. It looks like my prayers have been answered: KA24DE Billet intake flange (xcessivemanufacturing.com) These guys make the flanges, DCOE carb flanges and the intake runners. I am pricing it all up and also need to do some measurements to ensure it will clear the (RH Drive) Brake booster. The other option is to spec up either an NA TBI combo, or a mild turbo and aftermarket ECU combo, but I really like the idea of keeping it analogue. See how we go! FGF
    1 point
  7. Yup. The 'something on the compressor' is the thermistor (screwed into the back/side) which turns off the compressor to prevent overheating. It looks like a single plug aftermarket version will simply have this built-in so you won't see it. Some digging around indicated manufacturers started moving in this direction (built-in thermistor) some years ago - likely due to lower cost and increased reliability of the thermistor so it didn't need to be easily replaceable. I'll wager a guess if you order a new compressor for an older car at this point it's probably a toss-up which one you'll get (internal vs. external thermistor) which is probably leading to the confusion. I originally thought this was an extra ground wire since there is already a high/low pressure switch cut-off located at the receiver/dryer (which, btw, you are "supposed to" also replace whenever you replace a compressor) but apparently there is a local temperature switch as well (internal or external) - you learn something new every day ! Yeah - what I would do (since I don't like altering the car/engine side wiring unless absolutely necessary) is cut off the plug on the old compressor that connects to the engine wiring harness (leaving at least several inches of lead wire of course). Then cut off the new compressor plug and then just butt-splice the old connector onto the new one. Make sure you get a really good crimp on it - there are a lot of amps moving through this connector and you don't want a poor connection. Of course this will likely void the warranty. So before I did that I would test fit the compressor and hose connections to verify fitment. I would also bench-test the compressor to confirm it works (search youtube). Isn't DIY fun? I also poked around to see why your connectors don't match up. It looks like Nissan changed the connector type at some point. My '90 Pathfinder has the white/clear (well - yellow at this age) large blocky connector which is also likely creating confusion in the aftermarket parts market.
    1 point
  8. Thanks for triggering my PTSD over this even though it was nearly a decade ago.
    1 point
  9. Welcome! can't wait to see more of your rig in the future. The picture you sent isn't loading, try using imgur and importing it that way. Usually has better luck that method
    1 point
  10. Hello everyone! I picked up my 99.5 Pathy a month ago as I’ve been looking for decent off-road rig and can’t afford the Toyota Tax out here in CO. She had 121k on her and was completely stock but otherwise in great shape! In the past few weeks I’ve done a bit of paint work(flares and bumpers) and put on a set of Allied Daytona 30x9.50R15s and wrapped them in some Cooper Open Range A/Ts. I daily it mainly but plan on building her up for trails/overlanding. I am insanely inspired by all of the builds I have looked at on here. So much so that I’ve made an account and this post! Hope to see you all around!
    1 point
  11. Been running the 2002 brakes on my 97 R50 for a while now and they are worth the swap for sure. The stopping distance is much improved, especially with the drilled and slotted rotors I put on. The rotors went up from 11.1" diameter stock to 11.77" after the conversion. If you want to make this a fully bolt on set up, you will need the spindles that go along with the larger calipers. Other wise you will have to drill the two 17MM holes out on the spindes for the larger 19MM bracket bolts to fit through. This is the only major drilling/modifacation needed to fit these parts. Once the holes are drilled everything bolts on and fits factory. You have to drill very slow with oil (I used rapid tap) and maybe sacrifice an old bit as these spindles are very hard steel. The Dust shield also will be too small for the larger rotors, but that's nothing a hammer can't handle. You can either flatten out your original dust shield or simply bolt on the 2002. You can use your original hub and bearings if you like or swap. Parts used for upgrade and caliper rebuild: Rotors JBR917XPR PowerStop Pads EHT855H Raybestos Slide pin/boots H15165 / H16043 Raybestos Hose 0731621 Beck/Arnley Caliper seals 15215 Carlson 01-04 Pathfinder Calipers/Brackets OPTIONAL: 01-04 Spindles (no drilling required) 01-04 Dust shield Before rebuilding the calipers I sand blasted the brackets and calipers, then painted them with a high heat engine paint and they were ready to rock! This was the smoothest brake install I've ever had on a vehicle so the work was well worth it in the end.
    1 point
  12. Seems to be shifting just as well as it did before so that's a good sign haha I'll definitely follow your advice and add a external trans cooler though.
    1 point
  13. My next project is trying to see if my old brakes will fit on a WD21 so if anyone has messurments or has attemped that shoot info my way. Otherwise give me a few weeks WD21 people and I'll let you know. All I know is WD21 rotors are 10.8"~ and the bracket bolts are the same distance apart.
    1 point
  14. I echo Slartibartfast's recommendations for replacing your negative battery cable as you don't want to inadvertently cause stress on your battery or alternator. It's not that bad of a job to replace it yourself either I also had to replace mine a few weeks ago due to it being too lose and it was causing a no crank no start issue for me from time to time. You can find one relatively cheap on Amazon that's where I got my replacement negative battery cable from. Here's a link https://amzn.to/3ReK2Tg Chris.
    1 point
  15. where you able to feel any damage when you press the clutch? ive heard burning clutch smells rubbery, this is almost a sweet musty smell. not sweet like coolant, but sweet like kinda just a sour smell. not gonna lie describing such smell is difficult. by sweet i dont mean sugary or sour smell i just mean lightly sweet with the smell of heat lol. yeah ive been typing this for 15 minutes trying to describe the smell. im working on getting to the bottom of this before i make a 2 day drive from wyoming to wa in 2 weeks so Im gonna be pretty feckin active on here lol
    1 point
  16. Yeah, that could explain a few things. The wire is a good get-you-home fix, but I recommend picking up a replacement ground cable, or at least a new terminal end.
    1 point
  17. Lots of good info around here for R50s. Download the service manual from Nicoclub if you haven't yet, may come in handy with the engine swap. I don't think I've heard of a power valve screw locking one up before, that's gnarly. Your pictures aren't showing up for me.
    1 point
  18. man talk about going through the wringer, I just replaced the Alternator on my 2001 R50 Pathfinder 4X4 5-Speed a few weeks ago and it was not fun. It's also been my experience with my R50 you fix one thing and then something else pops up that needs fixing. After 3 years of owner ship I finally got my check engine light to go off and stay off. My advice is to keep fighting start with the cheap and easy stuff first and work your way up and good luck! Chris.
    1 point
  19. Many thanks, I appreciate it, and all the help you've provided!
    1 point
  20. Sounds like you got lucky, I tried getting a replacement from eBay a few times in the past and no dice. I even got a known working one from @Dbot and it too did not jive with my R50. That's why I mentioned matching up the Part numbers on the back-side of the fob, but strangely that's what I did the first few time I got one. I eventually found two fobs that worked with my R50 from the junkyard, I then took that part number and ordered two of them from Amazon for $11.25 although on Amazon it said that it did not fit my R50 even though the part numbers were the same, however they did indeed work with my R50 lol! Chris.
    1 point
  21. Searching on youtube for nissan r50 strut installation should give you a few pretty detailed diy videos. I swapped my aging/failing oem shocks/struts/springs for an OME/KYB setup (as well as kyb mounts and bearings. It was fairly straightforward. Its much easier if you can get a second person to help you remove the front struts. I used this spring compressor and it was very effective and seemed solid/safe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP2CDJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    1 point
  22. The rear are just a quick swap and drop in replacement, the front are not the same. You'll have to get a spring compressor for the front coils to safely remove/install the coils from the shocks. I run KYB and the 5100 setup and it's what I expected for the research I did. Pretty stiff in the front which I prefer, and the rear with the 9449 coils is still pretty soft but holds a lot of weight when camping. Not a super hard job, but is a bit scarier to do with the higher spring rate AC coils. (the stress could've turned my hair grey at 20)
    1 point
  23. Everyone usually use KYB shocks and struts to replace their worn-out components and these are going for cheap on RockAuto here's a discount code 26541693695688324. You can also use the Bilstein 5100 Series https://amzn.to/3V3UdMN for the rear since you have a lift, but it will require some modifications to run these shocks on the rear of your R50. Chris.
    1 point
  24. just thought I would let you know I ended up finding Transfer Case Module with the same part number as mine for $189 a lot better then paying $2000 from Nissan,thanks are bunch for your help Slartibartfast hopefully it's just plug and play and no reprogramming needed.
    1 point
  25. lol right? I stopped asking my self similar questions when I found this is how they spell optional throughout the instructions.
    1 point
  26. Echoing the above replies. That "4WD" light is specifically a warning lamp for the system, not an indicator that you are in 4wd. If it stays lit, it means a malfunction is detected. Generally, the system prevents Auto/4H/4L engagement when malfunctions are present, so if you've not personally engaged 4H and 4L to feel the difference in crawl speed, I wouldn't trust the dealer's assessment at all. In essence, there's a diagnostic pattern that can be perform on the truck using the ignition switch, the dial switch, and the transmission shifter to enter a diagnostic mode where the 4wd lamp will blink a pattern that corresponds to one or more fault codes. I highly doubt the dealer will allow you to perform that process, use a diagnostic scanner (a generic OBD scanner will not be able to pull these codes), or otherwise take it to a mechanic or dealership for inspection (at your expense). Truck otherwise looks to be in reasonable shape for age and mileage, but I'd strongly advise walking away if you're unable to pull the code(s), unless the vehicle is potentially acceptable for use in 2WD/RWD. The reason is because this "All Mode" transfer cases uses input from nearly all other modules (ECU, transmission, ABS, for example) in order to operate multiple motors, pumps, and sensors. There are also dozens of potential fault codes, not to mention that multiple fault codes can be present, and not necessarily isolated to the transfer case system itself. Without knowing what codes exist, it's impossible to know the real cost of repair, but it can become substantial quickly (old parts, Nissan-only parts, electronic/electrical parts, difficult to access/remove parts, etc.). If you're set on the platform and want 4wd, you can find Pathfinders with a part-time transfer cases that have a mechanical shift lever; they lack the Auto (AWD) function, but they also lack all the complexity and are significantly simpler and more reliable. Some SEs, all LEs (?), and all Infiniti QX4 with 4wd had the All Mode system.
    1 point
  27. Maybe? The '15 Versa uses 80430-9KK0A, which sure does look the same as the R50 door catch. For some reason, the R50 has a whole bunch of different part numbers (80430-0W000, 80430-0W005, 80430-0W006, 80430-0W007, 80430-0W008, 80430-0W009, 80430-1W300, 80430-1W310, 80430-1W311, 80430-5W900), but it looks like they're all just different revisions of the same part. The first half of the part number is the same as the Versa one, and they sure do look about the same, so maybe the Versa catch is just the latest revision of the same part. If you can get the Versa one cheaper, or already have one on hand (that your girlfriend won't miss), it might be worth a shot. Measure the length of the rod before you swap in the Versa one in case they made it longer, and open the door slowly the first time until you're sure it won't hit the fender.
    1 point
  28. Hi everyone! After years of keeping an eye out for a two door Pathfinder/Terrano, I had always hoped I would find ‘the one!’ You know, the one that was forgotten about in the back of the shed. Better yet, the one owned from new by the one person and meticulously maintained. Well, not too long ago i bought a 1991 (TD27) Terrano that isn’t far off the mark. With only 150k (kilometres) on the clock and in pristine condition inside and out this one drives and presents nearly as new. Not mention the exterior paint and graphics are freaking awesome! Pretty sure (happy to be corrected) there are no mods (apart from the front nudge bar and light bar) and is as stock as it was from the dealer. So anyways, my name is Marke. I am from Tasmania, Australia. I absolutely suck at the whole Forum thing. I will try my best at searching before asking. Some of you may have seen my post on the FB page. Cheers Marke.
    1 point
  29. Aftermarket ECU and a big turbo, you say?
    1 point
  30. How's the build going? I just picked up my own 2-door at auction here in the US annnnnd it's finally in my driveway!
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. So this is a super old thread but i thought id comment here as ive seen these questions and issues a lot about these grounds, and people having o2 sensor issues. thes grounds are not here as an arbitrary location because it was easy. The o2 sensors ground themselves through the exhaust that they are screwed into....however, exhausts are usually suspended by rubber mounts to reduce vibration and noise. this severely nhbits the ability for good grounding. These straps are added to help the o2 sensors achieve good ground. This wont always cause a problem if they are not attached....but it is highly possible. Especailly in older vehicles or o2 sensors with a lot of mileage on them
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...