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Im tired of the thing being slow, it does a 0-60 in 9 secs,so,mods I've done:copper mod spark plug,Z31 injectors,stage 2 clutch,mid muffler delete,bigger rear muffler,added a 2nd muffler to the driver side manifold and thats it but.. after thinking a lot,knowing I have the fs5r30a thats from a R32,I know it can hold that turbo,I mean the manual used in my vg pathy is that one I think all manual vg paths had it,so I think it can hold it,also,I'll add downpipe,get Z31 oil pickup lines,bigger turbo than Z31,more aggressive cams,intercooler and oil cooler,but before all that I'll get stage 2 clutch for it,this might be the biggest vg Pathfinder build yet

There are actually two switches on the brake pedal, but you're correct in assessing that if the brake lights work then the switch is good, because the AT interlock is triggered by the same switch. The other switch is for the cruise control system. The likely culprit is the park position switch on the back of the shifter assembly. When the shifter is in the Park position, it closes the ground leg of the shifter solenoid that unlocks the shifter when the brake pedal is pressed. If you supply 12V to the solenoid (also on the shifter assembly) and it latches, then the solenoid is good. You can check for continuity on the switch. In my case, my truck's previous owner tucked a chunk of tubing into the shifter override (the hole you can stick a screwdriver in to manually get the shifter out of park) because the park switch had failed. I found a replacement switch on Digikey (.com) for a couple bucks and soldered it in. You can use the tubing approach in a pinch, being fully aware that it will allow the truck to be shifted out of Park without a key and without the brake pedal being depressed. I'd just keep a screwdriver or tool in the truck until it's fixed. Don't forget there's also an interlock cable that provides mechanical functionality. The shifter moving from park also requires a key in the ignition and turned to ON. It's unlikely it's the problem, but you'd want to confirm that the correct slack/length is set where the cable connects to the shifter assembly. Full details are in the Factory Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. Check the Automatic Transmission (AT) chapter, "A/T SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM" section after all the diagnostic code stuff.

Hi all. Thought I would post here first, before diving any deeper into a problem I have. The car is a 2000 pathfinder with a touch over 300,000 km on the clock. We’ve only owned the car for a month or so and are workin through that various bits and pieces for road worthy. My son (17) bought it as his first car. It is otherwise a great car, and has been looked after well by its one owner since new. It has a notable high speed vibration that comes in at around 80 km/h, and then goes away at about 95 km/h. It’s not a front end vibration, and cannot be felt through the steering at all. This presents as a low frequency “humming” vibration felt through the seat / floor of the car. Wheels (stock pathfinder wheels) have been balanced, and both uni joints on the main driveshaft have been replaced. I have removed the front driveshaft to eliminate anything front end…..and can confirm that there was no change in behavior. I also fitted up a second hand driveshaft I got from a wrecker, which didn’t change the behavior at all either. Before I start digging deeper (diff / bent axles etc), I thought I would just post a query to ask if there’s anything specific to these vehicles that I might want to look for. Do they have a tendency to fail in any particular area that might be causing this issue? Also open to any other ideas. Thanks all.

Hi all. I realized I forgot to drop into this forum and say hello! We’re from Australia, and my son (17) has just bought his first car. It’s a 2000 Nissan pathfinder r50. Aits got quite a few km’s on it (300,000 km), however has only had one owner, and has full service history!. we’re looking forward to working on it together, and will no doubt have a lot of questions for the group. Cheers!

Dealership confirmed: "VERIFIED CONCERN, TEST DROVE VEHICLE AND FELT VEHICLE SWAY FROM REAR AT HIGHER SPEEDS. RAISED AND INSPECTED VEHICLE REAR TRAILING ARMS AND LEADING ARM BUSHINGS FOUND BUSHINGS TO BE TORN RECOMMEND REPLACE ALL BUSHINGS TOTAL OF 16. PARTS HAVE TO BE ORDER" They quoted $1,879.56 which seems ridiculous. Is there a kit of all 16 or should I order each arm individually from rockauto and then just take to a shop to do the labor?

I was able to repair the TCU! Woohoo! Had a reverse polarity protection diode that was bad as well. Its now shifting properly.

That's pretty much our only option for a lot of the hoses now, like the pcv ones. Either run a massive loop of hose or use those spring host bender things the parts stores sell. hose bender springs | McMaster-Carr

Guess that would've been too simple. I've heard you can bend lines with a spring and heat, haven't had a chance to try it myself yet. Might be worth a shot if the line is cracked. Good luck with the lower, hopefully the failure is obvious when you find it.

Cooked up some heavy duty sway bar links as part of my suspension refresh. Hard to believe its been 10 years since I installed the complete front end kit on this truck. Not a ton of miles since then (+/- 50K) but they were hard at times and saw some pretty fun adventures.

Yeah, I'm sure it's frustrating as hell. One of those moments where it would really help if these ECUs could show us live sensor data! Running worse over time is likely just the plugs starting to foul. All six fouling the same suggests it's not an injector issue. The new fuel pressure regulator not helping suggests the excess fuel isn't coming up the vacuum line from a bad reg. So either something is forcing more fuel through the injectors than the computer intends, or the computer's getting bad info that's causing it to inject more fuel than it should. Check that the fuel return line isn't pinched or otherwise blocked. Maybe a mud wasp got in there while you had it torn apart? If you can't blow through the return line, then it doesn't matter if the regulator is working, because the excess fuel can't leave the rail. I would also check that the fuel supply and return are plumbed the right way around, though I don't think it would run at all if you had those crossed up. If the fuel lines are OK, try running it with the coolant temp sensor disconnected. If the computer knows that the temp sensor isn't working, it'll guess the engine temperature based on how long it's been running. If this makes it run better than it did with the sensor hooked up, check the resistance of the sensor, and the wiring between the sensor and the computer. (The service manual's troubleshooting for the temp sensor code should tell you which pins to probe for this.) If that doesn't help, plug the temp sensor back in and try the same with the MAF. Again, if it runs better on guesses than it does on sensor data, check everything in that circuit. I know it stalled when you tried unplugging the MAF while it was running, but that may be different it you start it with no MAF vs if it loses connection while running. Check that it codes for the temp sensor and MAF when they're unhooked. If the computer doesn't notice that a sensor is unplugged, then something ain't right with either the harness (current leakage makes the computer think it's seeing sensor data?) or the computer. I would also disconnect the battery for a bit before/after each test to clear any previous codes and self-learning. I would not expect a blocked exhaust to cause a rich condition.

Have you verified the timing is accurate as well, check the mass airflow sensor, common issue to have the wiring at the connector be flaky.

I had Ocean Colour Scene--North Atlantic Drift in mine for a while, but took it out recently. Not their best album. Haven't replaced it yet. I usually use the iPod in the truck. If the iPod counts, today was Weird Al.

I believe the bulb is removable and the size is 74.

A lot of times, a 9V battery provides sufficient voltage. Otherwise, I tend to keep old cigarette charger cables around and cut the end off to expose the wires. Correct on the override. Little rectangular cap pries off and then you stick a tool in.

I had to order everything individually. Finding the right bolts was a particularly painful endeavor. Buy the arms from Rockauto, for the bolts you can either find the closest match at your local hardware store (or online) or get a kit which is what I did but they tend to be on the expensive side. There was an old thread that specifies the right bolts you need. You can replace everything at home but it's 99% guaranteed you won't be able to remove the old, rusty bolts. They need to be cut.

Good work getting it back together. Sounds like the distributor is off a tooth. Or is that what you meant by moving the splines? Make sure you're setting it with the engine warmed up. Also check that the balancer hasn't slipped, as Adamzan noted above. Hopefully clearing up the timing wakes it up! EC-23 of the '99 manual says that the knock sensor is not used to tune the engine. It's just to tell the computer if something goes wrong. I relo'd the sensor on mine to the back of the driver's side head. Haven't had any issues with it. I was glad I did it when the sensor failed and I didn't have to pull the intake to swap it out! But I imagine it would struggle to pick up the sound of knocking from the passenger's side, if something did go wrong.

The shock mounts on the axle on the later model (99.5-04) R50's are different than 96-99. The upper shock mounts on the body are also different, so without significant mods on the unibody/monoframe to alter the top shock mount. I would recommend sticking with the same axle housing, but just replacing the third member and its guts.

The axle is the same with the exception of the shock mounts.

That is a weird one. The 2001.5 service manual has different exploded diagrams for the two different brands of master cylinder, but there's no explanation for why there are two options. The info at the bottoms of some of the Rockauto listings show everything the same between them, with the exception of the size of the mounting holes, which are eleven thou smaller on the Tokico for some reason. (0.343" Tokico, 0.354" Nabco.) I don't see any notes on their brake booster listings for which master they go with, so I'm guessing this tiny difference (eleven thou, or 0.28mm) isn't significant to the size of the studs. I suspect that this is just two suppliers of the same part, but I don't know that, and I can't explain why the aftermarket would bother to reproduce both variants if there wasn't some functional difference between them. Looks like the body of the master should be clearly marked with the brand name, so you should be able to tell which one you've got currently. I would replace like with like, on the off chance it matters. Failing that, I'd trust Nissan's parts lookup, and roll the dice on whichever variant was cheaper that day.

My dad's '03 bucked like that too. His usual mechanic had no idea what was wrong. IIRC it didn't even throw the code, just bucked when he tried to accelerate. Someone else he took it to had seen the same failure before, and replaced the solenoid, and that cleared it up. Looks like this guy had a bad TPS somehow throw this code. Not sure if you've seen that thread already, or whether you already replaced the TPS along with the throttle body. I'd have a look at live data from the TPS, on the off chance, though I suspect the engine in that thread might've been the earlier drive-by-cable--surely drive-by-wire would be throwing more than a swirl valve code if it couldn't tell where the throttle blade was. +1 for going through the troubleshooting in the service manual!

Appreciate the extra info. Digging into this stuff is never fun, and many times the error code isn't specifically for the part it references. If you suspect the ECU isn't turning the solenoid off, you may need to look into what conditions would instruct the ECU to keep it grounded, or otherwise confirm that there isn't a ground when the truck is off. I suspect a bad pressure sensor would be one of those conditions. Have you pulled the plenums off to visually inspect all hoses, actuator activation, etc.?

I've not dealt with the code before, just reading through the FSM now to toss some suggestions out there. You've confirmed the solenoid gets 12V when the temperature is up, but where are you checking for the signal, and have you confirmed that the solenoid is actually actuating? The ECU provides a ground signal for the solenoid, so if you're reading 12V before the solenoid and just grounding it, you'll see 12V. You need to confirm if the ECU is grounding. Have you Have you also stepped through the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM? There are 3 procedures based on which symptom(s) you're seeing. An improper voltage signal is sent to ECM through swirl control valve control solenoid valve. The vacuum signal is not sent to swirl control valve under specified driving conditions, even though swirl control valve control solenoid valve is ON. The vacuum signal is sent to swirl control valve even though swirl control valve control solenoid valve is OFF. Which applies? Checked the vacuum switch?

In case anyone was wondering what the manual locking hubs that I got looked like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTWXLS3S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title They come with no instructions, but They do go on EXACTLY the same as the OE ones. I don't think I was overlooking anything, but I couldn't get the clip that retains the center assembly on the splined shaft. It's like 1mm too long and the clip won't go in the grove. A thinner jesus clip or something like lockwire (In my case) is needed. Maybe it's just me. A lot of mixed reviews, but I think the people were just installing them wrong as I did the first time I slapped them on. I'm not fully endorsing them as being the same as or as good as the OE ones, but they look good and they seem to work fine once I figured it out. No hubcap modification needed if that's what you're trying to avoid like me.

Hello! My name is Kyle, I was born in Carlisle (UK) but recently sold up and moved to Germany, to a small town in the east roughly 50km from Berlin. After moving over the thing I was most looking forward to was car shopping - naturally. Especially since in the UK the cars are fairly limited due to being right hand drive. Whereas here in Deutschland, I have the whole continent to choose from as well as a range of American cars. The irony being I chose a Pathfinder which is neither but I chose it as I was drawn to the idea of having a capable truck I could invest in and enjoy! And so, here is my 1998 R50 with the 3.3 litre engine and auto gearbox: A few niggles have come to my attention already, so I'll be asking about those on the relevant forum sections Aside from those however, I already love it! Kyle

Latest update: I got MOST of the parts on the chassis re-installed last night. Nothing is tight. Will have to lay under it for a while tightening up all of the fasteners. All that I have left on the floor of the garage is the front sway bar, front drive shaft, Crossmember with torsion bars, and a short piece of exhaust between the Y-pipe and Catalytic converter (O2 sensor will have to get plugged back in), and routing and securing of cable/wires. Now that I write it down, that's quite a bit of work left.... And ofcourse, there is the interior which hasn't been touched, and all of the oil that needs to go into the engine and transmission. Lots of little simple stuff, but it all adds up... One thing I will say was a heck of a LOT easier to do was to install/tighten back up the drivers side exhaust without the front axle installed. Also. The starter was also easier to install without the passengers side exhaust installed.... Everything, I mean EVERYTHING, is interference on these things under the hood if you're looking for some room to work!! I would even consider the front axle being interference to the transmission. There are a couple of bolts that I feel would have been almost impossible to install with the axle in place. I don't think I was doing it wrong, but I couldn't even see the top bolts of the transmission when I was putting them in. It was MOSTLY by feel. So... I think that's going to be it for this thread unless someone wants to add to it

Hi everyone, im from Colombia, actually living in Casanare, own a R50 1998 stock, but will be modified i hope.

Changed out the front axle shafts for the Trakmotive extended travel units. Much beefier than OE and they come with the Thermoplastic boots. That said- they skimp on paint or any kid of coating so they rust quickly. I suggest immediately painting them if you get a set.

After a long period of R&D followed by successful installs on the initial test group, who have racked up considerable mileage, hardware is starting to make its way out into the world now and we felt it was time to make a thread dedicated to our Pines to Spines SFD kit. This will be the official thread where you'll find a showcase of the rigs that are running our hardware and testimonials from them should they choose to participate in the discussion. Both 3" & 4" kits include: - 2x P2S Strut spacers - 2x engine spacers - 4x subframe spacers - 1x panhard bar drop bracket - 1x steering extension with universal joints - brand new fasteners (OEM hardware is retained) You will need to purchase or fabricate- - Longer brake lines - power steering hardline support bracket - extended sway bar end links - a missing link Note- OEM fitment skid plates will not be able to be retained. You will need to fabricate or purchase a SFD specific set. If you're interested in a kit please DM both @TowndawgR50 & @hawairish in the same message ( you can add multiple recipients to a DM) and we'll get back to you as soon as possible with availability and pricing. @02_Pathy @Ravens794 @Stpickens @Rockit

Alright I got the limiting straps finished up today. The sway bar presents a bit of an obstacle so I used some one inch square tube make an upper mounting bracket that helps clear the sway bar for a relatively straight pull. I probably went a little overboard, but I wanted those brackets to be strong so I boxed in the end of the square tube and also reinforced the area of the frame that I welded to with some 1/4” plate to stiffen the area up. The lower mount is welded to a piece of 1/4” plate that is then welded to the control arm. It works! No more noticeable top out over potholes and such. The limit straps are designed to stretch about an inch so instead of a jarring jolt they cushion the impact as they hit their limit so the violent bang of the strut topping out is gone. I also cut off my rusty exhaust, and put in a Y pipe that goes into a single inlet stainless magnaflow muffler with a turn down before the rear axle. Simple set up, and it sounds really nice. It sounds a little like a 350z but in a non ricey way, lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is two-tone ...red & rust!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32740-so-here-is-my-plan/ From Xplorer This is the cheapest place i found for these http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORsb.asp?Series_Index=Q6&Manf=All&SubChar=Q and the 5100 series specific page http://www.eshocks.com/shock_ind2.asp?PN=33-185552 But it was a few years ago when i found these, so maybe somewhere else like autoplicity will be cheaper... -Kyle

How about this one RB26DETT :o

Audioslave

PANTERA.....COWBOYS FROM HELL!

Alternating between Soundgarden "superunknown" and Hendrix greatest hits right now.

right now i have an older cd i mixed with three doors down, creed, bob marley, and sublime on it

Either Sublime or Dr. Dre Chronic 2001.