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The primary ones (which is what the ECU monitors and what matters) are hard to reach on these rigs from underneath, but the secondary ones could be easily cut out. I haven't heard of it happening much on this board but that's not to say it hasn't happened. Maybe one of the cages from the other vehicles could fit on the r50? It's a problem where I live too (Canada) but it seems mostly isolated to toyota and honda.

So I put the sensor back in, hooked up my "oscilloscope" and spun the driveshaft only to see no waveform. Then I pulled the sensor out and peered in and found that the gear inside the transmission is also worn down, although slightly more than the one of the sensor. With both of these worn down, they are just no longer grabbing. I'm happy because I've finally found the problem; but I don't think fixing this is worth it to me. I would have to disassemble the rear transmission casing in order replace that gear. Historically, I don't have good relationships with gaskets and aluminum cases. But, if someone chimes in saying that this is an easy disassembly I might consider it. Otherwise, I'm going to live without a speedo/odometer. Thanks for the help @Slartibartfast, your wisdom is much appreciated!

Yeah I noticed one of the sensors is significantly longer than the other I'm assuming the downstream one is the longer one being that it's further from the engine. I have a lift so I plan on replacing a lot of things but for now just focusing on what's throwing codes. Just learning a new car, I'm by no means a mechanic but I do like to know as much as I can about the car I'm driving and how to repair it.

The contact width on all of them isn't that wide, maybe < 0.5", but I'm not sure wider is necessarily better. Probably don't want things being too snug either. It's ok if there's a little tolerance (the exposed tip of the CV has a little play, too), so long as it's not wobbling around or creating high/low spots in the sleeve. Main thing is lubrication, but not too much (otherwise the clutch ring won't disengage easily). Not sure how easy it is to just find a single unit, but if you get a new pair, you'll have at least a spare. Though, seems like these may be ok still. Is there still a gasket in place to keep elements out?

Part number should be this 80999-VE000 and I purchased these https://www.amazon.com/OTUAYAUTO-50Pcs-80999-VE000-Panel-Clips/dp/B08MZFS5Y8 But they don't fit. Rather not spend $60 on OEM ones.

This is a common spot for a leak. Any Nissan/infiniti dealership will know the o-ring since it fails on the g35.

I'm curious, my pathfinder has a similar amount of miles, have you replaced the wheel bearings and control arm bushings? I have replaced my trailing arms, shocks, and upper control arms (I believe, again I am new to this) in the rear, but I am starting to grow conscious of the fact that it may be time to do all of that stuff to the front suspension.

Hey guys I appreciate the assistance! Just an FYI I went down to Menards and got some QD Electrical Cleaner (because it's literally half the price than what Autozone wants $13 vs $7) and gave the ole OBD2 port a couple of blasts. (I wanted to make an assblast joke but don't know how many Its Always Sunny fans we have here) Sure enough, damn port works again and I retrieved the codes for my CEL. (Speed sensor and Bank 1 Knock sensor) I didn't want to hit and run like people often do and wanted to update you guys on the sit-E-ation and that it was resolved. I have some questions pertaining to wheel center caps that I will make another thread for. Thanks again to you guys that responded! DO

Thank you. I’ve enjoyed every minute with her. A lot of elbow grease, time and money, but she’s been well worth it.

Picked this QX4 up for $500. It has some issues. Pass side axle needs to be replaced, death wobbles and needs to be detailed from top to bottom. On the upside the engine is perfect a/c still function's, 4x4 works ,all electrical is A-OK and last but not least no rust anywhere. I've already started on the front end. Refurbished fog lights, blinker and head lights. Fixed bumper and started painting under carriage. More to come. Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

97 Quey with Bosch Oscar fog’s recessed into the grill. Easy add on. The grill is actually still one piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm all about keeping stuff going, but between the structural rust, the rod knock, and all the other stuff you mentioned, it may be time to take that one out back.

So the main lights that illuminate the guage cluster use 194 LEDs, and the rest of them use the smaller 74s: I believe the HVAC controls also uses a 74 bulb. Mine is a 1994 curvy dash, so it uses 5 194 bulbs to illuminate, and uses 194 for the low gas light and the battery light; I'm not sure how many the square dash uses. I just want to do the button switches because of consistency, and they look terrible in comparison to the guage cluster lol. I can't find any info on these switches.

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It's easy to forget about the diffs. They don't need attention very often, so they get put off and forgotten about. For the most part, they seem to hold up alright anyway, so long as the oil doesn't leak out, water doesn't leak in, and you don't beat the hell out of them. Like most things, the diff will probably last longer and run better if you keep good lube in it, but it's not gonna turn into the other kind of pumpkin if you don't adhere to the schedule exactly. Reminds me, I should change the oil in my front diff at some point. For all I know, it's been in there since the truck left Kyushu.

Finally installed the 180F unit in the truck last week. No codes, reaches operating temp a lot better. Case closed.

Do you know what temp your current thermostat operates at? Spec is 170F, but I can tell you that a 170F unit on my 04 has been throwing a CEL for coolant temp being too low. I had a 180F unit in there previously, did some maintenance items and put a 170F unit it, and it kept throwing codes. I just put a 180F unit back in the other day and no codes. That all said, I wouldn't recommended anything lower than 170F per Nissan spec. However...given that the R50 thermostat also fits a 370Z per RockAuto, and there's a 140F R50 unit that fits a 350Z, and all the housing gaskets crossref to all those models (and many more), I'd say you have options. The 180F unit I used is also spec'd for VQ40 vehicles.

If you don’t off-road or tow anything you can probably go longer on the differentials. Especially with the higher quality of todays lubricants. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should be able to make it work if they are both the same motor. For 2wd and 4wd you will have to swap the tail housing of your transmission onto the donor so the transfer case will bolt up

For Nissan Vehicles its good practice to go ahead and change the Diff Oil and Transmission oil(both auto and manual) every 30K. Simply helps keep things fresh and extends the life of all the parts

got it on. only thing we used from the Xterra was the supercharger, intake, lower intake, and pulley bridge. Stock ecu, stock crank pulley, stock injectors, stock maf. got a 69.5in 6 rib belt, cut 1 rib off to fit the 5 groove crank pulley and ac compressor. fits like a dream. Notched a half hole on the top right bolt for the tensioner bracket since it was off half a hole and pinched it tight with the bolt. cut the hood and we are good to go. Gonna hook up a sniffer to it to see what AFRs are looking like but with headers no cats and full 2.5in exhaust we are still getting some black smoke so dont think its leaning out. moved knock sensor up to the top of the sc but i think it may be pulling timing when it hears some stuff. gonna get it on a scanner and see whats happening there also, may stick a resistor in place. good bit of teflon was missing so we are seeing just a smidge above 5lbs on the boost gauge, we got a buddy who does cerakoteing and other engine assembly coatings which are safe for the sc rotors so we may rebuild it and get them coated. Other wise it runs great and zero issues so far

Take it as bad advice or not, I have been doing this for a while, but I have never followed the recommended intervals for changing oil. Especially if you're dealing with time variable. The properties of the oil didn't change over the course of 24 months if you didn't put squat on it for miles unless you have some kind of contaminant in the oil. If you're dunking the rear end in a lake because you're towing a boat, or going through low water crossings routinely, You might want to change or inspect more frequently. For a while now, I have been simply topping off some of the fluids because it leaks from A, B, or C. There are a few exceptions where you might want to be a little more diligent, but the auto manufacturers have always been pretty liberal on how frequently you should change the fluids. The rear differential with an LSD might be a different story and require a bit more attention if you're putting a lot of miles on it. Mine does chatter, but the rig is also 31 yearl old and has 315K miles on it and I'm pretty sure everything in there is original, or at least it was when I got it... I changed the fluid when I replaced the pinion seal 9 years ago because it was leaking. Now I have a leaking rear wheel seal and the fluid will get changed after I get that done as well because the bearing grease has probably contaminated the oil. As mentioned, a roof top carrier isn't adding much to the load. It probably matters more if you're pushing the load capacity of the vehicle when you're driving it, rather than just the carrier alone.

Hey all, I’ve been lurking and learning for months now, and have officially started my long-term build and figured I’d take the opportunity to document the progress here! I bought the ‘02 earlier this summer. It’s my first 4x4 I’ve owned so this is all brand new to me, but I decided I needed a second vehicle that could get me places here in Oregon that my daily (2012 Volvo S60) wouldn’t take me. Enter a 1 owner bone-stock Pathy with 108k miles and service records dating all the way back to new. Here she is the day I bought her. I’m open to suggestions on a project name that plays on the old lady gold color combo I’ve landed on lol. Current working titles are: Project Gold Digger Project Goldschläger Project Goldeneye Project Goldilocks Anyway onto the mods in the next post...

I read that as "change the oil more often if you're stressing the drivetrain." An empty roof rack should not be stressing the drivetrain.

The mechanic may not have thought to look for fuse links, or recognized our old-school fuse links when he saw them. If you don't find something obviously/visibly wrong, turn the key on, blower to full, and wiggle wires on the + terminal until you find one that makes the blower kick on. Might show you where the problem is if it's just a weak connection.

It's not the computer. The circuits that are acting up are not computer-controlled. It sounds like an issue with your fuse links, which are the small loops of wire plugged into the harness near the positive battery terminal. Fuse links are basically slow-blow fuses, and shouldn't pop on their own--hopefully if they are bad, it's due to corrosion or mechanical damage. If a link is fried or broken, or its plug is corroded, or the guy didn't reconnect the fuse links properly when he replaced stuff (sounds like he replaced the terminal?), that'll be why it's missing power to places. Could be the guy screwed up; could be something was corroded and didn't give you trouble until he flexed the harness to get the terminal off the battery. But, yeah, check that your fuse links are intact, and if the terminal was replaced, make sure the fuse links are still connected to it. You may also have an in-line blade fuse holder hanging off the + terminal if your truck has/had the factory fog lights. This is unrelated. The wiring diagrams in the EL section of the manual may help you narrow down which fuse link(s) aren't working right if you can't find the problem visually. Not sure about the trans hesitation. Is the fluid level correct? Might not even be the trans. Mine had an engine stumble just off idle for a while, and IIRC it was that damn MAF plug.

Sounds like a trans cooler line failed, and the fluid level got so low in the pan that it was sloshing away from the pickup when you went around corners. Hopefully it's just the rubber hose that's failed. I didn't know Matic D was still available! I used generic parts store dex/merc when I flushed mine. Annoyingly I think I paid about the same amount for it.

I was mostly after the throttle response. I have the 5spd and shifting felt way too slow. Dropping the fan woke it right up, shifting and throttle blips are super fast. 5th doesn't feel nearly as held back on the highway, and it brought my throttle usage down from 7-10% to about 4-6 doing 60KM (blue driver results). My overall milage has been crushed due to a growing vacuum leak which isn't really helping me estimate that, but it has been a lot more consitant with Efans. edit: The side benefit is being able to swap all my belts in about 5 minutes, and my whole fan/shroud setup can be removed with the rad as one unit.

Used wheel and tire worked out better than I thought. Still need to clean them up, but they ride way better than before.

The car has a dual fuel system. Propane filling (LPG). Отправлено с моего SM-N975F через Tapatalk

Ha ha, I’m not going even going to pretend otherwise- fantastic!

Yeah my kids love them, they love having their own space camping. We originally had a soft floor camper trailer, that the kids shared with us, they eventually wanted and got swags, and then my wife and I were asking why are we still spending an hour to set up/pack up such a large camper??? So that was when we started looking at getting ourselves something a little "glamping" and we worked our way up to our hybrid offroad caravan, hence the reason for Hoss. And before you yankees ask, this is a soft floor camper:

Just so you can see what a swag is ? This is our regular camp set up. the boss and I in the camper trailer, and the kids in their swags. The swags are basically heavy duty canvas dome tents with built in mattress and can be rolled up with all bedding and pillows ready to go

Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A version of this has been in my ToDo list for over a decade. I look forward to copying your final results.

Refurbished the front clip on my 96LR50 including radiator support. I’m really happy the way it turned out. Not bad for a 24 year old vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Pathfinder is a unique collection of parts that mostly works for me. That said, here is my input. My 93 when I bought it in 99 had 128k miles on it and I assume the factory installed switchable shocks were the original units. I never noticed a change in mine when switched between sport and touring. I did the tests and was able to hear all 4 click when the switch was operated, just felt the same to me. I did a 3" suspension lift using the kit with 30% stiffer torsion bars and 3" coils from AC about 20 years ago. It came with a set of the Rancho 5000 shocks. I hated them, just didn't work well for me. I eventually changed the rear lift coils out with a pair of front coils made for a late 70's early 80's Ford F150. I trimmed the pigtails off to fit my mounts. They gave me lift I was looking for, but a very harsh ride unless I had 700+ lbs in the back or a trailer hooked up with good tongue weight. Also had a tendency for the right spring to fall out when flexed out. I had found the rear shocks were a little too short for the lift and so got a pair of ProComp ES3000's for the rear. These shocks did ride better than the Ranchos for me. Then I got tired of the issues the Ford springs had, and went back to the first lift coils with a spacer to give me the rear lift I was after. That setup just was not working for me, so got a pair of 4" lift coils for the front of a 90's Grand Cherokee. I trimmed a coil off with the pigtails to fit my stock mounts. They gave me the 5" lift I was after and I found the ride to be a bit firm, but not bad. I tend to carry a couple hundred pounds of "stuff" in my truck so worked for me. Had one shock finally blow it's seals and die. I picked up a pair of Bilsteins that came off a new 17 Titan Pro4x for the great price of free (the parts department at the dealership I was working at was tired of the pile of them sitting there as take-offs from the Titans that had lifts installed and was throwing them out). I had to do some grinding and drilling on the bushing eyes to fit the mounting studs on my truck, but they fit well and work great for me. Up front, I finally broke the right front shock a little while back. Found a pair of ProComps and have been satisfied with them. I started with a 3" suspension lift, and I have maxed the front out. It has been a miserable experience for me over the years. I have gone through a LOT of tierods, idler arms, ball joints, center links, bushings, CV boots/axles and such. I also installed a 3" bodylift about a year after the suspension lift. If I was to do it again, I would leave the suspension near stock, probably just turn it up about 1 1/2" and do the 3" bodylift. The bodylift gave me room for larger tires, the suspension lift didn't. It also has made a lot of things easier to get at and work on especially around the engine.

Haha found some old pics from a year or two ago when we were hitting a neighborhood park at night that has rails and boxes set up and pathy saved the day when the stadium lighting was cut

I can finally report that the power valve screws are done turns out none of them were missing or loose, but I locktited them anyway to be safe. Even though the job seemed like a waste of 4 hours, at least now I have peace of mind. Going to be taking a long road trip soon, so I’m glad I know for sure that they won’t be falling out when I had it running in the garage to confirm that I put everything back together properly, I noticed a faint squealing and it turned out to be an idler pulley not putting enough tension on one of the serpentine belts, so I tightened it up and the squeaking stopped. Very happy I caught it before it shredded a belt because that same thing happened a few months back on the other belt

Very common trick, works well. Having done the screws myself, definitely recommend the cardboard and taking some pictures. Also a torque wrench and the torque specs from an FSM.

One smart trick was a guy who pushed each bolt into a cardboard template to keep track of what went where

of course the engine would be inside the car lol but great display of how it works. the work needed to be done ends at 14 mins, very easy if you just slow down and keep track. also at 18:26 in the video, you’re staring directly at the power valve screws, there is 2 for each gold power valve. @raingoat this would help when trying to explain the procedure!

So awesome you guys. One bolt on supercharger kit with a side of solid front axle plz

Yes. I may have had 2 stubborn ones and given the location i couldn't get enough force to just break the heads off. Certainly at least 1 on each side. I used a long socket extension and just bent them enough to gain access to the bolts. A small pry bar probably would work better. The replacements didn't have the spots to attach them again so i was not worried about damaging the shields.

No doubt brother. It's been in the South its whole life so that's exactly why it has no rust or at least surface rust. That salt is a killer. Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

I always get so jealous when I see surface rust free undersides...

FYI, I am doing the flywheel dance right now... >Factory PF flywheel should be about 23 lbs. A resurfaced factory flywheel will be 21-22 lbs. have one of these; 21 lbs, and I certainly felt the difference before and after but my wife did not. (she is not as in tune with the feel of a vehicle) SACHS New flywheel is 20 lbs. This will shorten your clutch life a little and hurt you a little on hilly traffic and towing. (best used in cars) ->Zoom Flywheels are 23 lbs and a very good option For stock replacement --->Brute Power Flywheels are 25 lbs and make a nice upgrade for towing, hilly traffic and pushing through mud/trails. It will help some for rock crawling but the best rock climbers are automatics. (This is what will be going into my wifes vg33+ AND my upcoming vg34er) There is a RARE 28 lb vg30 flywheel but I do not what it came on or where to find more. (maybe on the super rare flatbed duallie hardbodies? If you find one make sure to steal the full floater h233b as well) This would make the ultimate wheeling and towing flywheel.

Sometimes there's no mod available that will prevent you from getting stuck in mud. Before driving over difficult terrain, especially mud (which is usually a lot deeper than you expect), You need to decide the risk of getting stuck and have an action plan for getting yourself unstuck if you go for it and don't make it. That being said, one of the first things any 'wheeler should get (even before tires and a lift!) is a 30,000 lb. tow strap and a pair of D-ring shackles. You can get D-ring shackles at most hardware stores, near where they sell chain, or you can buy them online as well. 30,000 lb. tow straps D-ring shackles Put one loop of the tow strap through the D-ring, and put the D-ring on one of the tow hooks on the front of the Pathfinder. If you have a trailer hitch, insert the loop of the tow strap through the receiver, then secure it in place with the receiver pin. Alternatively, you can use one of these. If mud is your favorite type of terrain, you will probably not want to get AT tires, but MT tires, such as Bridgestone Dueler MT, BFG MT, Interco TRXUS or something that has a more agressive tread pattern. AT tires don't do so well in mud. You'll also probably want to get yourself a good pressure washer so you can clean off the underbelly after you're through. Another thing that you'll find will help your truck in most other types of terrain is reducing the air pressure in the tires to 18psi. Of course, if you do this you will need some way of reinflating the tires for extended highway driving. A cheap cigarette-lighter-powered air compressor is an affordable introductory solution. Anyway, getting back to your question about manual hubs. Your truck comes with full-time hubs or "drive flanges" that set the entire front drivetrain in motion whenever the truck is moving, no matter what mode the transfer case is in. This is what allows you to "shift on the fly" into 4WD at speeds up to 50mph. (Mechanically, it doesn't matter what speed you're going, but you probably shouldn't be going over 50mph if you're feeling the need to shift into 4WD anyway.) Although the front drivetrain always turns, it basically "freewheels" unless 4WD is engaged. Naturally, a constantly-spinning, but unpowered drivetrain will negatively influence fuel economy, too. Aside from potential fuel economy losses, the problem with drive flanges is that they contribute to premature wear of the CV boot, especially when a lift is installed, since the CV joint angles increase. This is why many people install manual hubs as part of a lift. With manual hubs, you basically have two modes: locked and unlocked. When the hubs are locked, they behave just like drive flanges. When unlocked, the wheels are mechanically disengaged from the axleshafts. In other words, wheel rotation can now occur independent of drivetrain rotation. Another advantage of manual hubs is drivetrain failure. I recently snapped a front CV axle while off-roading in Utah. I was able to unlock the hubs and continue driving without causing further damage. In fact, I drove over 1200 miles back home with a broken CV axle. This could not have been done without manual hubs. Installing hubs with the lift is definitely optional, though. I don't think I installed manual hubs in my truck until over a year after it was lifted, and even then I did so only in hopes of increasing fuel economy. The other advantages became apparent afterwards, and besides, I didn't get as much fuel economy benefit as I had hoped anyway.

I say go for it, but be aware of a few things that will arise from lifting it. These are in regards to the 2" (advertised) lift (I got 3"F and 3.5"R): Firstly, your front struts WILL top out going over bumps. This WILL NOT cause any significant problems, it is more of an annoyance than anything. But it will scare the living crap out of you the first time it happens, and you'll turn around and go right back to the shop and be like WTF! :confused: I've had my lift on for 50,000 miles, and the struts are just now starting to feel like they're wearing out. I'll likely have to replace them in about 10,000 miles...KYB's estimated useful life for them is ~60,000 miles anyways. I think that I've gotten a great amount of life out of them considering how and where I drive my truck. Secondly, your CV axles will be at a more extreme angle, and this will expedite the wear on the boots. To alleviate this, I HIGHLY suggest getting the Warn Manual locking hubs to replace your full time drive flanges. With the warn hubs unlocked, and the t-case in 2wd, you have the entire front driveline disengaged, and nothing is turning. This in turn creates less wear on the front end driveline parts, and will give you a slight increase in fuel economy. (I saw about a 1.5-2mpg increase). I did not install the manual hubs immediately, and regret not doing so, because I had to replace both CV axles at the same time, to the tune of $200. Thirdly, since the 2" AC coils are not any longer than the factory coils, but are simply a higher spring rate, the ride of your truck will change completely. I love the way my truck rides now. Before I lifted it, it felt like a station wagon, now it feels like a truck should. It will ride stiffer, and the suspension will be a lot firmer. Stock, you can fit 31x10.50" tires on your factory rims. With the lift, I had no problems fitting 32x11.50x15" tires on 15x8" rims with 3.75" Backspacing. In order to fit 32s, you MUST get new wheels with a backspacing of no more than 4", otherwise, the tires will not clear the strut. Finally, nothing can be better than the looks you get driving a newer Lifted Pathfinder with big mud-tires...I LOVE IT! I say DOO EET!!!