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I run a company that advertises vehicles for dealerships. Threw the pathfinder in the booth today for fun!

Did some shaking down this weekend, and so far so good.

Only thing left to do is go have fun.

I think I found it. Same place behind the pull out change compartment on driver side fue box. 3 relays, with the middle being the blower motor from what I found. I ended up replacing that relay and fuses but it didn't help. I purchased a $20 blower motor resister on Amazon and that didn't fix it. Then I purchased a new blower motor from AutoZone and that got the air running again. Put everything back together and then it kept blowing after I turned it off. So I had to take it apart again and put the new resistor back in. I had put the old one back in because I thought it was just the blower motor. So it ended up being the resistor AND the blower motor. $170 in parts and back in business.

The 26 psi is the spec for that vehicle. The 44 psi is the max pressure at the max rated load for those tires. Stick close to 26 psi and you'll be just fine. If you feel 26 is a bit too soft then you can bump the pressure up a few psi and see how it does. But be sure to check your tire tread wear pattern to make sure you're getting even wear across the face of the tread.

If the diff is already installed, to check your ratio, chock the front wheels, lift one rear tire, shift transmission to neutral. Put a piece of tape on the top of the pinion yoke. Spin the tire one full revolution and count the pinion rotations. Just over 2-1/4 rotations is 4.63. A smidge under 2.5 rotations is 4.9

I've been trying to accomplish full independent fog light operation (with stalk switch fully functional, with parking lights and regardless of high beam state) through simply rewiring the existing relays (I don't want to fiddle with steering mounted stalks, switches or interior wiring). There are differences between facelift model years in those electrical workshop manuals (check 2001 vs 2003 for example), so I'd recommend grabbing your multimeter, testing the relays and not fully trusting what you read. Here's a Nissan lighting relay for reference: The only thing you should focus on are terminals 1 and 2. Those have to be power/ground for the circuit to close and send power to the lights. It doesn't matter if terminal 1 is power or ground as long as the other terminal is the opposite. Terminal 3 will always be powered (regardless of key position) and terminal 5 sends the power out once the circuit is complete so you don't have to worry about those. Now, you may think overriding the missing ground or power by bridging it from another relay (say, the parking lights one) is the right way to go, but I guess Nissan thought of this and made it a bit more complicated. In my 2003 (with automatic lights), fog light relay terminals 1 and 2 behave in this manner: Once you turn on the low beams (light switch in position 2) power is provided to terminal 1. Once you turn on the fog light switch, ground is provided to terminal 2. That turns the fog lights on. Now, once you turn your high beams on: Ground on terminal 2 is interrupted and the fog lights turn off (power is still provided to terminal 1). If you hardwire a ground to terminal 2, you will lose the ability to use the fog light switch and the fogs will turn on (and remain on) as soon as you turn on the low beams. What you can do is remove the ability of the high beam switch to interrupt the ground and that's what I think Blindaviator did by removing the steering wheel cover, but I am trying to avoid touching those wires, so we need to keep thinking. So, let's tackle the easiest thing first: Getting the fog lights to turn on without the need for the low beams to be on (and retain fog light switch functionality). You simply hardwire constant power to terminal 1. That'll make them work even without the parking lights which may or may not be desirable. If you want them to be tied to the parking lights, it gets a bit more complicated. The parking light relay works the opposite way of the fog light relay. You would want to bridge fog light terminal 1 and whatever terminal from the parking lights is getting power, but the parking light relay instead gets ground (not power) when you flick the switch, so that's a no go. What about terminal 5 on the parking light relay which sends out power to the parking lights once the circuit closes? Wire that to terminal 1 on the fog light relay? Bingo! Now you have fog lights that turn on/off at will as soon as you turn on the parking lights. They will still not work with the high beams, though. For that I haven't found any solution yet that doesn't involve the steps given by Blindaviator, but combining those two things would net you fully independent fog lights. If you don't mind not being able to use the fog light switch, you can simply bridge fog light relay terminal 2 <-> parking light relay terminal 1. The fogs will turn on with the parking lights and will remain on constantly. Note: you'll of course need to remove whatever wire is on the receiving end to avoid a feedback loop, potentially blowing up fuses and other things. EDIT: Here's the "pics or didn't happen" part: Testing with a piece of wire (looks awful but of course I did it properly once I confirmed my theory): Like nothing ever happened: Parking + fogs:

Looked better tucked into the hole IMO but I imagine the neck makes it easier to read and reach the screen. How's that pivot locked? Looks like something that could start working its way down after a few good bumps. I kept mine simple, basic single-din HU that I can plug an ipod into. I spend enough time swearing at touchscreens when I'm not driving. When I need maps, I just stick my phone in the ashtray. +1 for Dire Straits, though.

Beauty shot from camping this morning with the clouds below and Mt St Helens above. @zakzackzachary Should recognize this spot!

Found a great spot for a photo![emoji3531] Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Way better than before, little stiff, but great with a light load in the back.

Ah, so the clip's missing and the cable sheath is moving around. If you can't find it in the carpet, NissanPartsDeal shows (what I assume is) the correct part as 0922-50410 (snap ring). Not available there, looks like these guys have it though. Neither has an actual photo of it, but from the description, I'll bet an E clip with an ID a little smaller than the cable sheath's OD, thin enough to slide into that groove in the housing, would do the job (or that's exactly what the OE part is, just marked up). Worst case I guess you could just JB Weld the sheath in place with the bite marks lined up to the groove and hope you never have to take it apart again. Looking into it further, looks like the non-aircon models had the cable, and the aircon models had the pot/servo arrangement. And yeah, that pot is where I'd start too, assuming the mechanism checks out (slider goes from end to end when you turn the knob). I'd check those solder joints on the off chance one's cracked, and shoot some contact cleaner into the pot and work it around in case it's just got some trash in it that's preventing a wiper from making contact. (And, yeah, check it with the meter to make sure the resistance rises and falls smoothly and the trace isn't broken.) If the pot is buggered, you might get lucky and track down a new pot using the part numbers stamped into the case, though that's probably a long shot. I guess if you don't mind channeling Red Green, you could work out what its resistance is supposed to be (hopefully its resistance is labelled, or you can find a datasheet from the other numbers on the case), gut the mechanism, and install a standard rotary pot through the face plate. I wouldn't worry too much about the cable wearing through the sheath. It shouldn't have much load on it. Wouldn't hurt to shoot some silicone spray down the sheath while it's apart, though.

Again, I don't know crap about the R52, but from what I've read they "judder" before they let go. Probably a good call selling it before that goes--I have not heard good things about Nissan's CVTs. Recently I helped replace the rear wheel bearings in a friend's Honda. The howling noise went away, but now that one noise is gone, we can hear all the other stuff that's worn out.

Well, that fixed it. For my build date the Hitachi MAF0094 is the correct (and OEM) part. I had to do the air flow reset procedure to get it to idle better (lower) and it's as good as new. I also bought an Hitachi CPS just in case the MAF was not the culprit. Would you still replace it just to have the brand new part or would you save it? I'm undecided.

I would be surprised if there are a whole lot of options there. Rockauto lists Zumbrota RTC59276 (reman), but naturally it's out of stock. The part number might turn one up elsewhere, though.

It's not just semis! I haven't had enough rear axles apart to say for sure, but I suspect our greased bearings are more the exception than the rule, at least on older stuff. That Park greaser looks like a great way to go. Much easier to maneuver.

You do have to have the CV fully removed. It's supposed to be in tight, so putting up a fight isn't unexpected. Most of the time, I will resort to the following processes, in this order: 1. Loosen the nut, but leave it in place at the bottom of the stud. Smack the knuckle with a sledge hammer a couple times, then smack the bottom of the nut upward. Repeat. 2. Ball joint tool on the joint, tightened up so that there's tension on the joint, then sledge hammer to the knuckle. Joint tends to pop here. 3. Pickle fork. People seem to dislike them, but I've never had it not work, it's just usually a little more aggressive. 4. Heat the knuckle for a little bit, then do #1. Smacking the knuckle a few times is key. Just changed my passenger ball joint a few days ago. #1 was all I needed, but I'm fortunate to live in a dry region.

Unplug the blower motor and see if you have 12v at the connector when the fan is supposed to be on. If the blower motor has power, but doesn't go, it's probably dead. If not, then start digging around in the service manual (free download here) to find which fuses/relays/etc you're after. You want the HA section. Hopefully it's something simple and not an issue with the HVAC head.

Sometimes it's just easier to buy something pre made, with a warranty, that I don't have to worry about grinding, ensuring all the welds don't rust and that it's square (Not that doesn't happen with pre fab either). Built vs bought has it's place but the majority of Nissan owners are cheapskates. Though I will say it is far worse with the first gen xterra groups. Every time someone tries to pitch a product they get torn apart by the "I can build it myself for less" crowd, and there you have it, no aftermarket.

According to ARB, the R230 and H233B use the same 33-spline (both in spline count and axle shaft diameter). That front Patrol unit won't work because it's 31-spline. It's possible the 33-spline unit would fit an R230 carrier, given how close dimensionally they might be, but even if it does the R51 stub shafts use retaining clips to stay in place and it's unknown if it would clear the Lokka's side gears, or if the edges are chamfered to aide installation or removal, among other potential issues. Air locker options exist. ARB (RD137) or a cheaper TRE 4x4 (TR137), assuming you have 3.54 or higher numerically gears.

It's been a while....I'll chime in with what little I know. The auto transfer case still spins the front driveshaft even if the hubs are unlocked. The vibration could be caused by this on your vehicle. The best CV axles are OEM as they have the greatest operating angle. The Napa axles are rebadged Tracmotive. I've also read about them failing. Do you have VDC on your model? I believe the model with traction control uses the abs tone ring for more than abs, so you may have issues with that (if vdc)

For anyone wondering what it takes to LED-swap the rocker switches, here ya go. I haven't had a round-dash push-switch apart in a while, but I would expect a similar approach to work there too.

No personal experience. I think I saw someone complain about them being reboxed aftermarket crap on r/justrolledintotheshop, but can't find the post now, and the name is generic enough that I could be confusing it with something else. There was some chatter on the Farcebook group a while ago about aftermarket CVs with a better range of motion than stock, not sure if those are still available. Rebooting is also an option--though the last time I did that, I swore I'd just buy new ones the next time. Good lord those things put up a fight. The vibration getting worse with the lift and tires is interesting. If the vibration's still there with the driveshaft out, and you haven't tried rotating the tires yet, give that a go.

Thanks, man! It didn't take long for the problem to finally identify itself. Last night I got the check engine light and the car went into limp mode. It was a long, stressful drive but once I got home I scanned the stored codes it was the MAF (P0103). So I'm ordering a new one. I'm getting the Hitachi MAF0094. It's still confusing as I see some small differences in the way the sensor is built. I'm getting a 5 pin MAF since that's what I have now and matches my production date. I hope they work identically. I am aware of the need to migrate the thermistor to the new part in case it doesn't come with it and the ECU reset procedure, but I believe the MAF0094 is a 1:1 replacement so fingers crossed I won't need any of that. While I'm at it, I'll also get the CPS and new air and fuel filters. I won't touch the throttle body as per your warning. For future reference, the 5 pin MAF is used between these production dates: From 07.2002 to 05.2003, so it's basically the least used among R50s. Before 07.2002 you need the 4 pin MAF. After 05.2003 the MAF is the one in the screenshot above with the sensor screws in diagonal. It's the same MAF that most newer Nissan's use, it's cheap and easier to find. You can retrofit it by swapping some wires around but you also need to reprogram the ECU, so nah. While I wait for it to arrive, I took apart the sensor and exposed the circuit board to look for signs of damage, burnt resistors, broken solder, water damage, etc. I saw nothing out of the ordinary so I did a board "reflow". I used a heat gun to slightly melt the existing solder in hopes it would fix any broken points. Normally you'd use tinfoil to protect any areas you don't want to overheat but since this was already bad I said what the hell and heated the whole thing. I always use a little piece of new solder and place it nearby so when it starts melting I know when to stop. I resealed it and put it back and the car is amazingly working fine. I cleared the code and it's not stalling. I need that band aid fix to hold at least until Monday and then it can implode if it wants. It's getting its Takata airbag replaced (finally!). I don't want to drive all the way to the dealer in limp mode.

last weekend. me and xplore and another pathfinder (dylan) not sure if he is here too. went up wheeling and camp out Pardoes Trail and Squaw Ridge Norcal Trail Run 2023

TF-160 of the '03 manual shows the oil pump on the back of the transfer, accessible by removing the tailshaft housing, geared off the rear output shaft (actually looks like it's running off the speedometer drive gear). Based on that, looks like it should pump regardless of what the front end is doing. And yeah, I'd expect it to behave about the same as unlocked hubs. You might get a light on the dash if the control unit for the transfer gets confused--IIRC some of them determine front wheel speed from the ABS sensors, and some watch a sensor on the front output of the transfer, and the latter system gets understandably confused when it sees what looks like a rolling burnout at highway speed for hours. AFAIK the transfer itself doesn't notice or care. TL;DR, yeah, should be fine. If it doesn't vibrate with the driveshaft out, that points to the driveshaft. I haven't messed with the U joints on mine, but I've heard they can be a PITA to get balanced again afterwards. The PD section of the manual shows a bunch of different thicknesses of snap rings that I assume are used to get the end-play correct. Worth a look if you haven't yet. I remember one case where a guy had a vibration only in 4x which IIRC came down to his front diff bushings being so trashed that the diff was moving and screwing up the U-joint angle when the front end was loaded. Doesn't really match your symptoms, but it's the only other thing I can think of that would cause a front-end vibration that isn't tire wear or bearings or something along those lines. My money's still on the driveshaft.

Hell it’s just nice to know and feel suspension that isn’t almost as old as me. For the rack, I think it would it would have to come with the tent, and a hot chick with a rack for that much[emoji2960] lol

Looking good! Bet it's nice to have the suspension level again. Jesus that's an expensive roof rack.

It's a start for what it's worth. Since you have the factory rack you can easily fit this particular rack to your Pathfinder. I have it on my 93. All you have to do is remove the factory crash bars and bolt in the rack. Only took me about 2 hours to do in the snow. https://sherpaec.com/products/antero

Not sure if this is the same issue, but mine did that at times going down the highway. Only happed a few times over the course of a year, but ended up being the crankshaft position sensor. No issues since I changed it out. Cheap and easy to change out. I believe mine went bad due to getting exposed to wet conditions like creek crossings, etc.

That is one of the uses for that switch. When OffRoad and you get in a bind and feathering the clutch is dangerous you can leave it in gear when starting and that should get you where you need.

I definitely need to fix the faded bumpers now. Gonna be a fun winter

First time I'd heard of and used an interlock switch was in a 99 or 00 Tacoma 4wd 5MT, can't recall. Momentary switch that allowed one-time use to start the truck without the clutch pedal depressed. Particularly useful if on an incline and needing to start the truck with the foot on the brake. I'm happy to see this feature existed long before I saw it in a Taco, but I'll presume the WD21 acted like the above.

The interlock switch is momentary and I am sure there is some kind of timer to it, although I have not done any research on how long it lasts. I hit the switch and turn the key and drive off....

I'm inclined to say yes since there's instructions in the FSM to do it on the 3.5L; same process as you'd expect with the #1 coil. However, even if you know the timing, I feel like the nature of the VQ prevents you from making any sort of adjustments. Notably, a decent OBDII scan tool can return the timing advance value if it supports Live Data views. I've been face down in my scanner dealing with BS on my R50 lately and have been monitoring that, among many other things.

So you have an idea here is the current setup I have. I just mounted the Gamin to the dash. Thankfully it doesn't bounce around a bunch. Some say it's overpriced, but I think it's worth the money. You also see the Alpine deck and the Midland GMRS https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n72narbkmpkav8c/AAAPnlkCTkymxWHA3n134TBra?dl=0

LOL, reminds me of the stereo that was in mine when I got it. The faceplate motored open to reveal the CD slot, which would've been kinda neat if the faceplate didn't run into the shifter, strain for a moment, and then close again. I think I saw someone a while back who moved the HVAC controls down to where the head unit used to be, and somehow put the double-din up above. Might've deleted the middle vents to make it work? Must've been a square-dash. Better spot for the screen, but probably more work than it's worth.

Personally I’d just let the shop recycle it. Think of it this way, there’s one more core for them to rebuild, and keep someone else’s truck on the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those are the bumper pads that get sandwiched between the spare tire and chassis. Need new push clips to install them.

Clean looking rig! When I was configuring my lift and looking at the different options, and what to look for when buying my stuff I watched @PathyDude17 videos on R50 suspension and helped a lot with figuring out what I wanted to go for

I went with the BOSCH cap on rock auto. Its a brand I know, and so far has been working fine. Same quality I would say as the cap that came off it or better. I think I saw a bosch brand distro when I talked to my local parts guy about other caps. Didn't have the cap in stock.

Maybe? The '15 Versa uses 80430-9KK0A, which sure does look the same as the R50 door catch. For some reason, the R50 has a whole bunch of different part numbers (80430-0W000, 80430-0W005, 80430-0W006, 80430-0W007, 80430-0W008, 80430-0W009, 80430-1W300, 80430-1W310, 80430-1W311, 80430-5W900), but it looks like they're all just different revisions of the same part. The first half of the part number is the same as the Versa one, and they sure do look about the same, so maybe the Versa catch is just the latest revision of the same part. If you can get the Versa one cheaper, or already have one on hand (that your girlfriend won't miss), it might be worth a shot. Measure the length of the rod before you swap in the Versa one in case they made it longer, and open the door slowly the first time until you're sure it won't hit the fender.

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gorgeous truck!

I like what your doing your all over these machines. I officially became the proud owner of 3 pathfinders the obsession started on Dec 24th 2018. On January 10th I rolled my runner before I could install the new suspension components sitting in my garage. Like an addiction (few weeks prior to the rollover) I found another 1 this one 2004 full load Chinook edition. So I bought it sight unseen it's a British Columbia pathfinder so virtually 00 rust. ontario editions frames are shot.

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The car has a dual fuel system. Propane filling (LPG). Отправлено с моего SM-N975F через Tapatalk

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The ole 96er. I miss her and regret getting rid of her everyday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk