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After a long battle with the snap ring (I just haven't mastered the pliers, nor feel I ever will lol) Also, to find out after the fact, I never needed to mess with the snap-ring lmao I finally got off the related parts and scrubbed all the contacts with white vinegar. And this was after I couldn't remove anymore grime from the contacts The horn works!!!! I don't know if the cruise control does, for I am still waiting on a slave clutch cylinder to arrive. Thank y'all!!!!

Maybe this string should be taken down...? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Your spring options are kinda limited for the r50. The landrover springs only fit the back. Old man emu OME, doninson, ironman 4x4, all have sets that will lift you about 1.5in. 4x4parts (AC) has a set that will give you 2in. A lot of us run AC in front and the LR defender springs in back. I added OME struts to that combo as they are longer than stock and prevent topping out the strut on the trail. I have the longest LR spring in the back (forgot the part #), it gave me a slight rake but should even out when i add a swingout gate to my bumper, plus i like the extra departure angle it gives me. Hope that helps. Have fun with the build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been following the forum and contemplating for a few years to get a lift and finally did. 99 SE, 5 speed manual - front suspension is AC 2" coils with 1" spacers on kyb struts, rear is NRC9447 with Sumosprings (SSR-625-40), bilstein shocks, SF Creations Control Arm Crosslink, Warn Premium Manual Locking Hubs, Pro comp -3.75 backspace with 31x10.5R15 Toyo Open Country AT/III tyres I'm unable to upload pictures so here's a link on imgur. https://imgur.com/a/SaBX7iJ More updates to come. Thanks Devin

Thanks. I love the AT3s so far, they're pretty quiet and surprisingly lightweight. I'm happy I went with a 31" A/T tyre instead of getting a 32 or 33" mud tyre. The 31" at3s feel just right and I didn't do any trimming to make them fit. They're bit pricey but definitely quality. When I get a SFD will upgrade to 35" falken wildpeaks.

Mate took her up Old Le Bons Bay Rd today. Getting pretty rutted. No more blown diffs but had to do the rear wheel bearings and brakes recently. Trucking along nicely enough she is.

Ah ok, forgot to share correctly. Try now. https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano-reverse-cam/SpyJ5NRjWNoazLnMjfWKavek

Looking for some up-to-date input on where you guys are scoring fab items. Brackets, end links and parts (heim, johnny, etc.) coil overs, coils... I have been out of the game for a bit and all of my sources have dried up. Getting back into the fab game and going to be tackling the waggy 44 surgery soon. Thanks guys.

Sold it a few years ago, but got the chance to see it in person recently. lots has changed, but lots has remained the same.

Yes, provided it's late 00-04 Frontier or 00-04 Xterra. 99 and early 00 Frontiers had 31-spline diffs and slightly different 4.625 ratios. 96-00 Pathfinders and the years I mentioned are 33-spline and had 4.636 available. 01-04 Pathfinders were only 4.363 ratios. All of those year 3rd members will bolt in, it's just the different ratios and splines to be aware of. And of course if you want (or want to keep) an LSD unit.

Long time webpage stalker, finally decided to join, need some help and advice, to long of a story to really explain everything that has happened I'll post what exactly I need at a later time, just wanted to say hello

Wow! Awesome write up. I really want to repack my worthless Xterra LSD. Sadly I can't even find used parts. If anyone knows of a source for parts, I'd love to repack my diff. I tried to buy a Lokka for my R200A front diff but got ripped off as they appear to just be a scam now.

This is for anyone wanting to “repack” their H233B clutch-based limited-slip differential (LSD). It applies to C200 and H190A LSDs, too. It does not apply to other Nissan/Infiniti RWD/AWD diffs, such as the viscous LSD in R200V. It won’t cover the specific how-to’s of differential removal, setup, or installation, but will cover the basic assembly process. (I’ll answer any questions related to those topics, though.) All specific information (instructions, service data, torque specs, etc.) is in the “Propeller Shaft and Differential Carrier” (PD) chapter of the Factory Service Manual (FSM), and I’ll expect you to read it; there’s a section specifically for H233B LSDs. FSMs are available at https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. Table of Contents LSD 101 Technical Objective Repacking Assembly Testing Some Q&A first... Do you have a LSD? With very few exceptions, LSDs were not standard equipment. You probably have one if: There’s an orange sticker with “LSD OIL” verbiage on the backside of the axle’s diff hump. Any of these test conditions are true (if there’s no distinguishable resistance, or if test #3 is false, then it’s an open diff): Transmission in neutral, one tire off the ground, spin the tire slowly; there’s resistance before the driveshaft rotates. Transmission in park/gear, both tires off the ground, spin one tire slowly; there’s resistance before the other tire spins in the opposite direction. Transmission in neutral, both tires off the ground, spin one tire slowly; the other tire spins in the same direction while the driveshaft rotates You’re cool enough to have the window sticker and it lists it. I shouldn’t have to mention to chock the front wheels and disengage the parking brake when testing, but there it is. What LSD configuration do you have? This boils down to “what truck do you have?”, since it’ll determine what configuration you have, what improvements can be made, and which parts/donors will help the most. What if you have an open diff but want LSD? You’ll need the entire LSD carrier from a truck with the same spline count. You don’t “need” the entire 3rd member, just the carrier, unless it’s got the gears you want. In most cases, the entire 3rd is easier to obtain. What donor trucks can you use? Pieces can come from any 2004 or older LSD, except Patrols. You should mainly limit this search to only WD21, D21, 00-02 Xterra, and 01-02 Frontiers. If you already have an LSD, the spline count on the donor is irrelevant. What’s your budget? Expect to pay $75-$500 for LSD carriers or complete 3rd members from local junkyards or eBay. If you want new OE pieces, some are still out there for $40-$50/ea (and you typically buy in pairs), but Nissan has discontinued the pieces. There are also other costs (fluids/oils, gaskets, seals, bearings, tools, etc.). Are you considering a gear swap? Make that decision since you’ll have the 3rd member down and apart. For R50 owners, you can get 01-02 Frontier or Xterra rear diffs with the same 4.363 and 4.636 gears and a desirable LSD configuration, but you’ll still need to find a 96-00 R50 to get the front gears if going to 4.636. All H233B 3rd members can be swapped to any other H233B axle housing, as long as the number of mounting studs and splines are the same. What’s your mechanical aptitude? Dropping the differential can be done with hand tools in an hour or so, provided no issues with hardware or rust. It’s a 70lb chunk of metal, so don’t drop it on your face. Rebuilding a diff can also be done with hand tools, but there are some specialty tools and knowledge required. Disregarding certain steps of the process can lead to noise and possibly failure. However, it’s highly unlikely you’ll find a shop willing to do this work, including 4wd and differential shops that do gears all day long. Don’t let those Jeep shops touch your truck; they’ll just fskc everything up, I promise. A Nissan dealerhip probably won’t do this work, either (at least not to the specificity discussed here). Consider this a DIY or HAFDIFY (have a friend do it for you) job. Is it difficult? On a scale of 1-10, I’ll put it around 7. It’s probably an all-day task for the average Joe/Jane, on par with changing out a timing belt or chain. The advantage is you can do much of the work on a bench, but the disadvantages are needing some specialty tools and the smell of gear oil. The job also involves bleeding the brakes, among other basic wrenching tasks. Is it worth it? If you off-road, yes. Even a weak LSD is better than an open diff any day. It’s not a locker (I don’t care what you or Nissan calls it—it’s not a locker), but it’ll act like one until it can’t. Although this guide is geared for off-road use, a moderate rebuild would do well on the street. It’s more affordable than a locker...however, requires as much work as installing one. So, if you’re on the bubble and the price of a locker is within reach, and you want max traction, consider getting an actual locker.

The coil wire isn't a power feed. The computer sends a pulse to the power transistor, which sends a more powerful pulse to the coil, which sends a high voltage pulse to the cap. It arcs through the cap to whichever contact the cap is pointing at. If you suspect the cap is involved, check for spark from the coil wire to ground. If you don't have spark there, check the wiring/plugs on the transistor and coil. I would also check the wiring to the distributor--the sensor inside is how the computer knows the engine's position.

Might be worth sticking a fuel pressure gauge on it. See if the fuel pressure drops when the engine sputters out. I would also be curious to see if it'll fire on ether or carb cleaner when it won't fire on gas. If it runs on spray, but not otherwise, then you know you have a fuel issue. (You know for a fact that there's gas in it, right?) I'm not sure what connection the overheat would have to a fuel issue, though, or what the overheat would've damaged that would stall it out without some other obvious evidence of failure (losing coolant, white cloud out the tailpipe, schmoo under the oil cap, hellacious blow-by). Might also be worth pulling a spark plug after trying to run it. See if it's black or wet like it's getting too much fuel.

Water intrusion from the overheating to distributor or other electrical?

Man, that thing is clean! Does look funny with the little tires, though. 31x10.50R15 were optional on these, so they should fit without drama. That's what I'm running. Your speedometer will be a little out unless you want to try and track down the right cable drive gear to correct it. You may need different UCAs if you go past about 2", both for alignment and for ball joint angles. If it's strictly a roadfinder, you may get away with leaving the steering linkage alone, but it's not a strong design to begin with, and lifting them makes the geometry worse. There are a few ways around this. There's a Jeep spring a lot of people have trimmed and used in the rear (front springs for a V8 Grand Cherokee IIRC). I think there are (or at least were?) a couple of purpose-made options as well. Or you can get spring spacers. The torsion bars take time to settle, so adjust them a little at a time, drive it back and forth, and see how they settle out. They're easy to overshoot. I about Carolina squatted mine trying to level it. Also make sure the truck is well supported while you're at it, IIRC someone on here (or was it the FB page?) stripped the adjuster and damn near dropped his truck on himself. I adjusted mine with the truck on stands and the wheels off the ground because ain't nobody got time for that.

Yeah, I think we all knew that was a lie. I was looking for something completely unrelated today and discovered that not only does Ali Express sell suspiciously cheap transfer case chains for these, they actually have pictures of them--and measurements! The chain they list as 33152-33G01, what my research above says is the "early" chain, is listed at 47mm (presumably across the ends of the pins). The picture shows it measured across the outer plates at just under 45mm wide (around 1-3/4"). The chain they list as 33152-30C00, the "late" chain, doesn't have a listed width, but the calipers in the picture show just over 32mm wide (around 1-1/4"). The listing says it also replaces 33152-G2301, which they claim fits all Terranos; Amayama says that PN fits only the four-pot Terranos and Terrano IIs. Construction appears similar between the two, but the -33G01 has 29 layers, and what looks like springs down one edge, while the -30C00 has 21 layers, and springs down the middle. One of the posts I linked above shows a supposed WD21 box, with the springs down the middle, but given it's on a Navara forum, I suspect it's a -G2301 chain from a four-pot truck. Other pictures I've found of the -33G01 are too grainy to say for sure that they have springs down the side, but I sure don't see springs in the middle. Anyway--if we trust the pictures in the listings on Ali Express (), the difference is indeed about half an inch of width. So there we have it--proof (?) of an answer that already existed, to a question that nobody else was asking, six years later.

That's good to hear... I actually just replaced an injector and the IAC on my 1995 this weekend. Still have a ton of parts from my old 94 so I used those, I'll trust used OEM over new aftermarket these days. And also solved a long standing annoying as hell idle issue.

As a super late update on this I got new injectors from a different company that rebuilds only oem cores here in the states. It runs much better now, albeit I have a random high idle so I still need to deal with the tps. As for the flashing battery light before starting, it rarely does it now but I still haven't figured out what's wrong or causing it. I've swapped relays around and can't find anything concrete. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

1) Could be a lot of things. Bad crash sensor, wiring, previously deployed airbags, bad clockspring. (Do the horn and other buttons on the steering wheel work?) The service manual (free download from Nicoclub) should have some troubleshooting info for the airbags, but I imagine you'll need a higher-end scan tool to access the airbag system and see what it's upset about. 2) I would start with the door switch on the driver's side, as it sees the most use. If you unplug the switch and the light stays on, try the other switches until you find the one that's borked. You may be able to pop the switch apart and clean the schmutz out of it to get it working again. I've done that once or twice with WD21 door switches. 3&4) ATP's a new one on me. Looks like it's a nanny to remind you that the transmission's park position won't stop the truck from rolling if the transfer case is in neutral. Given it's activating when the transfer isn't in neutral, and the 4x4 light isn't working either, I'm guessing something's wrong with the wiring and/or switches on the transfer case. Again, the service manual should have the wiring diagrams to help you track this down.

That's great news! I also had similar rattling noises caused by all of the rusted loose heat shields that were dangling on the pipe a few months ago. I removed them

It sounds like it could be a lifter

Hey gang, Over the last 18 months I've really come to love my WD21 Pathfinder! So many quirks and features. If you were going to do a "Doug DeMuro style" review of your WD21, what quirks and features would you point out? I can think of a few, perhaps specific to my SE-V6 w/ Power Package It has a spoiler... haha You can engage the windshield washer without actually using the wiper blades Rear armrests on the outside, and seatbelt clips to keep the buckles nice and organized those LEGO wheels tho My 1992 doesn't have a check engine light... not that it's broken or depopulated, it just never came with one. period. gotta check those blinky lights on the computer! two tier roofline as a precursor to the 1st gen Xterras Old school switch-activated cruise control Gotta press that little button to get the key out - classic japanese style The triple "nostrils" on the grill "hidden" rear door handles Maybe if I collect enough I'll make a 'tribute video' on YouTube.... haha Cheers from sunny Colorado!

Been lurking here a while, bout time to introduce myself and "Hoss" my '99 Pathy. We are based in Tassie (Tasmania, Australia) I picked up Hoss back in October last year, I was in the market for a 4x4 rig for our tow vehicle and off road adventure machine. It would be used to tow our camper trailer, and to to go out bush and explore the wilds of the Tassie wilderness. It had to meet several criteria: Cheap to buy initially Parts availability and parts pricing off road ability towing ability/power reliability So my search began, in Tassie and the Australia mainland all 4x4/camping/dirt bikes basically anything outdoors related etc... attracted the "covid tax" (a slang term down here for everything going up in price due to the new demand for camping and outdoor activities as people don't like to travel now) so all the Land Cruisers and Patrols that were generally pretty well priced were now pulling 2-3 times as much, $3k vehicles selling for $12k-$16k ? So I turned to internet searches of "list of most underrated 4x4" and "4x4 underdogs" and "Bang for buck four wheel drives" and so on... Three vehicles popped up regularly on the lists, and videos: Nissan Pathfinder, Ford Explorer, and Jeep Cherokee (the second two being as most of these lists/videos were American) Ford Explorers and Jeep Cherokees were not a very popular vehicle down here, they are here but just not in the numbers that Nissan Pathfinders are. I watched a lot of video reviews, and build logs, and made lots of parts and price searches across all three vehicles to build an idea of where I wanted to go. At the end of the day the Pathfinder just ticked all the boxes. So the search for the Pathfinder began. There was a white one on Facey Marketplace, it had been listed for some 6 weeks (hmmm, what's wrong with it???) so I went for a look, not bad, some knocks and rattles in the front end suspension, ran fine, and the CV joints were shot, over all the body work presented well, just had high kms and mechanical work that needed doing well within my realm of capabilities (probably a turn off to most), I left it there and told the fella I would think on it, I figured I was pretty safe walking away what's a few more days as it had been listed for 6+ weeks Went and looked at a green one listed at approximately $1k more than the white one, and it was a real mess, a real "single mum's taxi" kids rubbish and food and stains all through the back, no evidence of recent services or service history for that matter, shot tyres, scratched and flaking paint, and a mouthy lady owner who "Ain't budging on price, I know what I got!" So she got a Hard pass! from me. I went and had a look at a couple of Jeeps as well, they didn't really float my boat, being in Tassie and they not being terribly popular they tend not to be looked after as well, and a lot of the interior parts in them were falling apart and rattling, creaking or just didn't plain work, both had electric windows that had failed. So we come back to the first one, old mate had rung me asking if I was still keen? I said yeah, but I want to bring a buddy to look over with me to make sure I wasn't missing anything. He said he would consider offers, "oh hell yeah got him on the hook" looks like I was the only looker. So my buddy and I went, I had cash, and was willing to walk away if anything didn't feel right, or I couldn't hit my pre budgeted purchase price. Long story short, my buddy picked up a couple of little things I missed, raised them in front of old mate, and we got it for less than half the original asking price, winner winner chicken dinner. The cheap purchase price allowed me to budget rebuilding and servicing a lot of the vehicle as I seen fit. So I have spent the last few months in between Christmas and camping etc... collecting parts and have spent the last few weeks getting her done. List of works (so far): New CV joints/axles D40 Nissan Navara factory freewheeling hubs (2nd hand from wreckers) New timing belt kit New water pump New thermostat Cooling system flushed, and new coolant Automatic transmission serviced and new fluid Engine serviced oil, oil filter, air filter New steering rack boots New front struts New strut mounts New front raised springs (Kings) Second hand alloy rims (off a Patrol for offset clearance of the struts with bigger tyres) New Falken Wildpeak 265/75 R16 New Rear drawer 2nd hand Fridge slide 42 litre fridge (leftover from our old camper) 2nd hand roof cage, all repainted and tidied up Custom made roof rack mounts Hi-lift jack and holder Roll out awning UHF radio external speaker (UHF was already in car) The obligatory before picture: As she sits now: My custom roof mounts, these allow a lower mounting of the roof cage keeping wind drag down, and allow 6x bolt removal of cage. Awning and jack mounted: Rear drawer and fridge slide setup: Things left to do: Trim and straighten front bar Seat covers Missing link and skid plates Electric brake unit install Secondary battery install Get out and use her Thanks for reading, I aim to keep this updated as things get done, and hopefully have a pretty complete build thread before long. Cheers, Fr8Train

Plus a few more pics because why not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Technical Objective The purpose of repacking is to increase the breakaway torque of the LSD, or the amount of torque required to rotate one side gear while the other remains stationary. I will use the following codes and symbols to describe stack configurations: This picture shows two different configurations: The top stack will be described as “5FD, 6FP, 2SS” and conveyed as: G1234567890123 GPDPDPDPDPDPSS #|O|O|O|O|O|() The bottom stack will be described as “2FD, 9FP, 2SS” and conveyed as: G1234567890123 GPDPDPPPPPPPSS #|O|O|||||||() The first row just indicates the piece position (1-13) relative to the side gear. I’m providing two conventions because some people might see one better than the other. All the springs will have the same code and symbol, but I will still describe them separately, making special notes about using them (in general, use SPs and SDs instead of SS if you have them). Note, too, there will be a distinction of spring orientation. Configurations will be described as a single stack. A typical stack consists of 11 friction pieces and 2 springs, or 13 pieces, so the LSD will then have 22 friction and 4 springs, or 26 total pieces. A breakdown of H233B (and some C200) configurations: This table is primarily of US-market models, compiled using publicly available FSM data. While it’s fairly comprehensive, it lacks data from international markets. It excludes Patrols because the 90+ LSD is completely different (similar in concept, though), despite still being H233B. Terrano and Navara owners can generally use Pathfinder and Hardbody/Frontier numbers, respectively, but expect possible differences (as noted by the 2002 Terrano), including the use of C200 axles in older applications. Terrano II owners are on their own, as I know nothing about them, but the numbers look extremely promising. Although many models also had C200 axles, those listings are omitted if the FSM does not indicate a LSD existed, or if it lacks specs for it (for example, 03-04 Xterra FSM lists an optional C200 LSD, but provides no specs, unlike the 03-04 Frontier FSM which does). The most obvious observation is that WD21/D21 trucks—and apparently Terrano R50 and II R20 (wtf, Nissan?)—got far better LSDs than 2003-04 trucks did. The ratings were attributed to the parts used, which is what the rest of the chart shows. Older configurations maximized friction, while newer configurations practically eliminated it. It’s also obvious that similar configurations produced dissimilar results, and dissimilar configurations produced similar results. Rather than try to justify what torque range is best, the real goal of this document is to make a unit that is presumptively “best” given all parts on hand. Since most people won’t have means to test the LSD, results will be entirely subjective anyway. From my experience, a basic repack using the “optimal” configuration has yielded around 140-160 ft-lbs, which is respectable given the parts used. I also ran a repacked unit testing around 165 ft-lbs and found it to be very streetable with off-road improvements, especially when it was paired with a front Lokka. From a starting-point perspective... Worst: 03-04 R50/WD22/D22, 02-03 QX4 These units require the most replacement pieces because of the spacers. It doesn’t make for a suitable donor in most cases, but since these would also likely come from lower-mileage trucks driven by grandmas, the parts probably see less wear than better units. However, two of these units yield enough parts to make a decent setup discussed later—something to consider if that’s all you can get your hands on. Meh: 01-02 R50, 97-01.5 QX4 By having 18 total FPs, it means that 12 are “unused” because they are stacked consecutively and no friction occurs between them, just compression. These units make for good donors because of the unused pieces, but not good starting points because they need FDs to replace FPs. OK: 96-00 R50 This is close to the optimal setup but needs 2x SS to replace 2x FDs Good: 01-02 D22, 00-02 WD22 This is the optimal configuration, but with any donor LSD you can replace any thin pieces with thicker ones. Best: 90-95 WD21 or D21 This is the optimal configuration, but due to age and mileage it’s unlikely they still hit stock specs. They are best starting points because of the potential for having thicker pieces, plus SPs and SDs (those provide friction and load). A 01-02 R50 donor is ideal for this.

Hey all, don't know if this has been posted on here yet. Thought it may interest some of you. A local Vancouver (BC) company that makes beautiful front and rear bumpers has just started selling a weld together front bumper kit for the R50. I've seen their work in person on a number of other vehicles and can vouch for their quality and excellent design. Here's a link: https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/r50-nissan-pathfinder-high-clearance-front-bumper-kit Also side note, anybody know who's truck that is in the pics? It's a beaut!

Here's the outcome of my rear spring replacement from the stock springs with 2.5" lift spacer with the 9449 springs. Went with the 9449's due to the load rating.Side by side, they are basically the exact same height as the stock spring with spacer. On the truck however, the new springs give a much increased lift. See pics. No cutting, just direct replacement of original setup. Measured original setup prior to changeover, and the truck was sitting around 34" at the top of the rear wheel well. After install, the truck was sitting close to 37". Jumped on it a bit and took it on a 10+ mile drive, including off-road to settle them in. Final measure was around 36.5" after the drive. We'll see if they settle anymore. Slight rake but not so much that I can't stand it. Actually like it after the drive helping them settle in. Thinking it will be perfect for towing. Ride on these springs was surprisingly great. They handle the bumps great and even though they are much more stiff than stock, the ride is very comfortable. Bumps are felt minimally, much better than with the stock springs/spacer. More like a well tuned sports suspension if that makes sense. Overall, it's only been about an hour but I highly recommend these to anyone looking for a novice lift with improved towing capacity over stock springs. Thanks again for sharing this and allowing me to chime in and contribute! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk