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1st shakedown trip done and dusted, the only thing that needs work on is my front sway bar mounts, by the end of the day they were pretty noisy. Any ways here is some pictures of Saturday arvo wheelin' in the wilds of Tassie. I got a few pics, but I will keep it to pictures including the Pathy to stick to the "random pictures of your R50" mantra, no one wants to see a heap of pictures of the Tassie bush. The crew for the day, mixed bunch, 4, 6, and 8 cylinders all represented The day's location Borradaile Plains Hut. Hut was originally a cattle grazers and snarer's hut, the original hut burnt down in the 1950's, but was rebuilt soon after. It is privately owned, but visitors are accepted as long as the site and buildings are respected. Pathfinder picnic table: Pathfinder sunset:

Junk yard scores! Found a silver hatch from an SE in great shape that even has the spoiler that I’ve always wanted. Paint still looks awesome except for one tiny rust spot. It came off of a 97 I believe, so I’m hoping the pre and post facelift hatches are interchangeable. They look to be, but I guess I’ll find out when I put it on. The spoiler will probably require relocation of the axe I have on the back of the rack, but that’s alright I also found another donor truck with the same interior trim color that had the overhead dome light assembly, so I swapped mine out. No more ugly holes from the previous switches. The same truck had two Yakima crossbars with ski clamps so I grabbed them as well, for $20 you can’t beat it. I’ll clean them up and they’ll be awesome for next season. The bars fit in the tracks and between the bars of my rack and hold the skis high enough that they clear the rack bars I won’t be able to install the hatch for a while since I’ll need to enlist a friend to help me lift it into position. In the mean time I’m putting a set of round rally lights on the front of the rack since I can’t get the original light bar to stop whistling and I’m not content with the output from just the smaller pods I’ve got on there right now. Plus I think the round styling will go better with the aesthetic of the rack. They’re off of Amazon and they aren’t a big name brand but supposedly they’re very focused beams so theyll reach further and won’t scatter the light a bunch. I can then move the pods to the side of the rack for lighting the surroundings if necessary

So, a few weeks ago I got in, started the old girl up, put her in drive to pull her into the garage to do some work on the roof basket, stepped on the brake and BAM, pedal went to the floor. Ended up being one of the hard lines above the rear axle had decided to succumb to corrosion. Looking at the rest of the hard lines back there, I decided it would be prudent to replace them all, as well as the rubber line. I then checked to see if I could free the bleeders on the wheel cylinders, nope, one crumbled and the other offered no resistance, as it snapped off with almost no pressure. I pulled her back out and ordered up a coil of line, bag of fittings, frontier rear hose and a pair of wheel cylinders. After all the parts arrived, I got to work and replaced everything aft of the clean section above the muffler (which worked out well, as I already had the new exhaust on-hand to replace the old rotted junk), bled the system thoroughly, hung the new exhaust and went off on a test drive. This is where frustration began. The brake pedal was inconsistent, sometimes high and tight stopping great, sometimes dumping all the way to floor requiring hand brake application, sometimes somewhere in between. Carefully, got her back home, went through the bleeding process again, no air bubbles at all. Took a ride up the road, still consistently inconsistent. Bled again, no air. Called a mechanic friend, bled it with him, no air. Looks like the master cylinder is toast from experiencing "full throw" when the pedal went to the floor, which is not uncommon for an old, high mileage unit. Looking closely at the lines and fittings to the master, it was decided that it's time to let her go. If she didn't have concerning structural rot, I would've been much more inclined to do what needed to be done, but at this point it's not something I want to get into on a vehicle that might not be structurally sound for much longer. It's been a great rig, made 20 years worth of memories, but in the end, it's the right decision. I had been casually looking for a clean, specifically spec'd Armada for a while now, as my kids (annoyingly) keep getting bigger and we could really use more room. I have found and looked at several over the 6-8 months, but they were either too high mileage, not properly maintained or severely overpriced. I opened up my search a bit, to include a very select few suburbans, expeditions and excursions, but found a lot of the same. Then by a stroke of luck, this past Friday I took a "mental health" day from work, began perusing the interwebs a bit and low and behold, a new listing popped up for a 2003 Ford Excursion XLT in my area. I clicked on it, just to realize "hey, I know this truck!", call the number, a guy I haven't seen in years answers, we catch up, I tell him I want to come look at it, stopped at the bank and went. Sitting there in all her monstrous glory, a beautifully clean, rust-free, well maintained, low mileage, tastefully modded ride. The listing did not include an asking price, nor did we discuss it on the phone, I just brought what I was willing to spend. We start talking and reminiscing as I'm looking the truck over, then I ask "what are you looking to get?", he says "I know you know what you're looking at and what it's worth", a very correct statement, "and I know what I could get for it, BUT I know if you're the next owner, you'll treat it as I have. How about ...". Without hesitation, I said "I brought cash, let's call this deal done!". I am now the very happy and proud owner of this true gem, for about half of its true market value! Although I'm sad to part ways with the Pathmaker, I'm excited about all the room and adventure the Ex has to offer. I'll still stop by this awesome community from time to time. I'll probably post a few obligatory pics of the new-to-me beast and if I find any R50 parts kicking around, I'll be sure to post 'em up.

Sent from my Pathfinder

@TowndawgR50 and I have started Batch 2! Steel and hardware is on hand now, and we'll begin cutting some pieces later this week. The current plan is to produce 8 kits (5x 4" and 3x 3"). A good amount of people have reached out to us since our initial post, so we'll be following up in PMs to those who have already expressed interest. Kit pricing on this batch will be $849 for 3" kits and $899 for 4". Despite a significant spike in steel and hardware costs across the board, we've decided to keep the same pricing we did for Batch 1. Batch 3 may be a different story, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there. We've also been asked about selling components separately, and we plan to do so this time around. A la carte parts will include strut spacers and PHB brackets initially, but we can surely accommodate other requests at this point. We also plan to offer rear extended sway bar links. Pricing TBD on those items. Batch 2 parts will see a few parts changes that help us improve our fabrication processes and the product. Notable changes include gusseting on the subframe spacers for that extra ounce of strength, and redesign to the PHB drops to allow for 2 positions on the short drop (vs. 1) and 4 on the long drop (vs. 3). Lastly, we've been discussing making missing links and motor mounts. The ML we considered a core component, so it makes sense to offer it. Motor mounts are something we've explored in the past, but put on the backburner. But, as more SFDs start making it out there, it's the perfect time to inspect and/or replace the OE-style ones.

Stopped by hawairish’s place today to make some custom rotopax mounting plates. As always, they turned out perfect. A big thanks to him. Sent from my Pathfinder

with friends

First day trip adventure as a family after our Anzac day commitments Lunch break: Found a waterfall: Have tee'd up with some of my mates a day trip and some entry level wheeling to start shaking Hoss down and get here ready for some real trails, watch this space

Just saying hi. Just moved to Australia and after looking at a few cheaper 4wds I ended up with a 2001 Tiv6 pathfinder. Its not in bad nick, couple bumps, couple rust spots. But mechanically it seems great. Was intending to put a 2in lift on it but to my surprise it had 1 fitted already with king springs and shocks less than 12 months old. Score. After some ideas floating around my head, plan is to turn it into a day/ weekend camper. A dual battery setup with fridge and draws will be fitted. As far as offroad gear goes, I won't be going mad. It has the factory alloy bull bar fitted and a non descipt bash plate fitted as well. All ill be fitting will be additional lights, recovery points from and rear as well as a roof tent setup. As well as all the required recovery gear.

Here's a few teaser pics from when I first brought the Ex home... Sent from my Mobile Communications Device

You’ll be okay with a deep cycle agm on an alternator. I have a 92ah deep cycle agm on a vsr and also paired with a 100w solar panel. I’ve had it nearly a year with this setup. This keeps my ARB 60L fridge running 24/7. Without any input from solar or alternator, the battery will power the fridge 4 days. Sent from my Pathfinder

Love this idea, Im having trouble finding roof racks for my Terrano here in NZ and I reckon something like this might be perfect to get me through. Any chance you can elaborate on the design of these mounts a bit more? I'm guessing these are bolted directly to the fixed points in the rain gutter? Love the rest of the build too!

Flushed my coolant system and cleaned the reservoir. Got the torsion bars adjusted so my ride height in the front is normal.

Been lurking here a while, bout time to introduce myself and "Hoss" my '99 Pathy. We are based in Tassie (Tasmania, Australia) I picked up Hoss back in October last year, I was in the market for a 4x4 rig for our tow vehicle and off road adventure machine. It would be used to tow our camper trailer, and to to go out bush and explore the wilds of the Tassie wilderness. It had to meet several criteria: Cheap to buy initially Parts availability and parts pricing off road ability towing ability/power reliability So my search began, in Tassie and the Australia mainland all 4x4/camping/dirt bikes basically anything outdoors related etc... attracted the "covid tax" (a slang term down here for everything going up in price due to the new demand for camping and outdoor activities as people don't like to travel now) so all the Land Cruisers and Patrols that were generally pretty well priced were now pulling 2-3 times as much, $3k vehicles selling for $12k-$16k So I turned to internet searches of "list of most underrated 4x4" and "4x4 underdogs" and "Bang for buck four wheel drives" and so on... Three vehicles popped up regularly on the lists, and videos: Nissan Pathfinder, Ford Explorer, and Jeep Cherokee (the second two being as most of these lists/videos were American) Ford Explorers and Jeep Cherokees were not a very popular vehicle down here, they are here but just not in the numbers that Nissan Pathfinders are. I watched a lot of video reviews, and build logs, and made lots of parts and price searches across all three vehicles to build an idea of where I wanted to go. At the end of the day the Pathfinder just ticked all the boxes. So the search for the Pathfinder began. There was a white one on Facey Marketplace, it had been listed for some 6 weeks (hmmm, what's wrong with it???) so I went for a look, not bad, some knocks and rattles in the front end suspension, ran fine, and the CV joints were shot, over all the body work presented well, just had high kms and mechanical work that needed doing well within my realm of capabilities (probably a turn off to most), I left it there and told the fella I would think on it, I figured I was pretty safe walking away what's a few more days as it had been listed for 6+ weeks Went and looked at a green one listed at approximately $1k more than the white one, and it was a real mess, a real "single mum's taxi" kids rubbish and food and stains all through the back, no evidence of recent services or service history for that matter, shot tyres, scratched and flaking paint, and a mouthy lady owner who "Ain't budging on price, I know what I got!" So she got a Hard pass! from me. I went and had a look at a couple of Jeeps as well, they didn't really float my boat, being in Tassie and they not being terribly popular they tend not to be looked after as well, and a lot of the interior parts in them were falling apart and rattling, creaking or just didn't plain work, both had electric windows that had failed. So we come back to the first one, old mate had rung me asking if I was still keen? I said yeah, but I want to bring a buddy to look over with me to make sure I wasn't missing anything. He said he would consider offers, "oh hell yeah got him on the hook" looks like I was the only looker. So my buddy and I went, I had cash, and was willing to walk away if anything didn't feel right, or I couldn't hit my pre budgeted purchase price. Long story short, my buddy picked up a couple of little things I missed, raised them in front of old mate, and we got it for less than half the original asking price, winner winner chicken dinner. The cheap purchase price allowed me to budget rebuilding and servicing a lot of the vehicle as I seen fit. So I have spent the last few months in between Christmas and camping etc... collecting parts and have spent the last few weeks getting her done. List of works (so far): New CV joints/axles D40 Nissan Navara factory freewheeling hubs (2nd hand from wreckers) New timing belt kit New water pump New thermostat Cooling system flushed, and new coolant Automatic transmission serviced and new fluid Engine serviced oil, oil filter, air filter New steering rack boots New front struts New strut mounts New front raised springs (Kings) Second hand alloy rims (off a Patrol for offset clearance of the struts with bigger tyres) New Falken Wildpeak 265/75 R16 New Rear drawer 2nd hand Fridge slide 42 litre fridge (leftover from our old camper) 2nd hand roof cage, all repainted and tidied up Custom made roof rack mounts Hi-lift jack and holder Roll out awning UHF radio external speaker (UHF was already in car) The obligatory before picture: As she sits now: My custom roof mounts, these allow a lower mounting of the roof cage keeping wind drag down, and allow 6x bolt removal of cage. Awning and jack mounted: Rear drawer and fridge slide setup: Things left to do: Trim and straighten front bar Seat covers Missing link and skid plates Electric brake unit install Secondary battery install Get out and use her Thanks for reading, I aim to keep this updated as things get done, and hopefully have a pretty complete build thread before long. Cheers, Fr8Train

I've never seen a Pathfinder with one before, so when I saw this at the junkyard, I pocketed it!

Well she’s officially an SE now. New hatch went on last night Just a heads up to anybody doing this in the future, the connectors from the truck to hatch are NOT identical. The donor truck was a 97 SE, and only two of the three connectors were the same. The third one from the truck is brown and it doesn’t match the hatch. There’s two main sections of wiring, the one that goes from the truck into the hatch, and the one that goes from the hatch wiring to each of the electrical components. Turns out one of the connectors between these two sets of wires is also different so I ended up needing to pull ALL of the wiring from the old hatch all the way to each individual electrical component and by some miracle all of them had the correct connectors to match up to the wiring harness from the original hatch. The latch was a bit rusty but with a bit of WD-40 it works perfectly and still locks up with the doors. I just need to swap the lock cylinder from my old hatch so that the back glass is accessable, but I ran out of time last night. It was 3am and raining hard In other news, I’ve been making an aluminum bracket for the rally lights but I’m running into fitment issues so it’ll be a while before they go on. The problem is the housing is interfering with the rack since the included mounts put them too high. I would need mounting tabs below the bottom of the rack for it to sit properly between the top and bottom of the rack. I’ll figure something out

Awesome. Can’t wait to see your set up! Sent from my Pathfinder

Was it the 36R0788 like you have listed above? Where did you get it? Yeah that’s the one I installed. Everything has been great so far. And I ordered from summit racing and it took about a month to get to me as they ordered from the manufacture. Didn’t have in stock. Rockauto has it as well. It says 2 day delay but I’m not sure if it would be longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im honestly not sure, your best bet is probably to look up some YouTube examples and compare

Love the truck rim stools,very unique

Yeah my kids love them, they love having their own space camping. We originally had a soft floor camper trailer, that the kids shared with us, they eventually wanted and got swags, and then my wife and I were asking why are we still spending an hour to set up/pack up such a large camper??? So that was when we started looking at getting ourselves something a little "glamping" and we worked our way up to our hybrid offroad caravan, hence the reason for Hoss. And before you yankees ask, this is a soft floor camper:

What it'll need depends on mileage and how well it's been kept up. Check the fluids, make sure the timing belt has been done or do it yourself. I did mine when I got the truck because I had no record of when it had been done last. Cam and crank seals, tensioner, water pump, and bypass hose should be done at the same time, and I replaced a rad hose while I was in there because I didn't like the look of it. While you're looking at the engine, if the vacuum lines are original/cracking/brittle, might as well replace those before they're a problem. Vac line is cheap. Valve cover gaskets, again, if they're original, they're probably rock hard and leaking. Check for cracks in the tube from the throttle body to the MAF sensor, and if it's torn, check your engine mounts. Check the front wheel bearings, they may need adjustment and/or repacking (you have to take the bearings apart to replace the rotors, so if it needs those, plan for both at once). If it's still got automatic locking hubs on it, consider upgrading to manual hubs. Also check for corrosion issues. These like to rot in the left side floorboard where the gasket for the Y pipe fails and blasts exhaust right at the floor (which can set fire to the carpet), and under the back seat. Mine also had rust in the right rear floor (wasn't expecting that) and the left rear wheel well, in front of the wheel. And of course the frames like to rot in the back, over the axle. And speaking of things that catch fire, check/clean out the heater box. On left hand drive trucks (not sure if you're RHD or LHD in NZ, and I've never been into a RHD dash), you remove the glove box and the plate behind it, remove the blower motor resistor, and then you can clean out the pine needles and leaves that accumulate between the fan and the aircon evaporator. It's not super common but I have heard of hot blower resistors setting that stuff on fire. I glued a screen over the intake to my blower motor to keep the mice out, and it keeps the leaves out too. Check for play in the front suspension joints, including the steering linkage. If the strut rod bushings (rear of the LCAs) are original, plan to replace them--they usually look fine and they're usually trashed. Oh, and the manual trans needs to be overfilled to keep it happy. Make sure you use the correct fluid.

I am very conscious of any weight put on the rack, the rack is predominately there as a way to carry the kids swags lucky to be 20-30kg max, the green one (in the picture with the van hooked up) is a Kings Big Daddy and weighs around 16kg and the other swag is a single which is lighter again. There is no lateral movement on the mounts, they are seated firmly on the mount points in the channel, the box section is 20mm x 50mm (3/4"x2" for you yanks ) and it fits and seats nicely on the mount points. These box section mounts have the same if not more contact on the channel as factory mounts, and they are bolted using the factory hardware, I have evry faith in them. The angle bracket resting in the channel is a very tight fit and I have not had any vibration evident as yet. As for wearing through the paint, I am not too concerned as she is a bush basher, and I may be Raptor lining the whole rig yet, and from what experience I have with the product it will withstand and protect the panel/paint from that sort of wear. Plus the way the 6 points are mounted to the cage give added rigidity. I will keep an eye on it, either way. Thanks for the questions and feed back

In general, love the out of the box innovation. A couple questions meant in the spirit of perfecting this approach. Don’t you worry the supporting piece resting against the rain gutter will eventually wear through the paint & maybe even metal. I expect you’ll see vibration for sure & maybe even flex. Also, what about lateral support? It seems like you’ll only have 1cm wide bases in six places to counteract any tendency to crumple sideways, it seems like it could be alot of pressure/weight per unit area with very little lateral resistance. Love the clean look & more expeditionary styling. Keep us posted over the months & years. This is the kind of conversion I would consider.

I doubt it's flooding with fuel, but the EGRC solenoid is open when not powered, so unless it's been blocked off somehow, that EGR valve is wide open. (I remember my '95 stalling out once, barely ran, wouldn't idle, turned out the EGRC plug had fallen out somehow. Started right up when I plugged it back in.) Maybe the fast idle/cold idle is providing enough air to keep it going when the engine is cold. I had a look at mine and the wiring for the EGRC solenoid runs along the driver's side valve cover, under a couple of vac lines, and is attached by a clip/zip tie to a tab on the valve cover towards the back, right under the IACV (fast idle valve, the tall one with the plug on top). Mine doesn't have an EGR temp sensor connection on the valve itself (pretty sure that was California-only), but there's an empty connector not far from there that might be related. If the wiring is jacked up, or you want to confirm that it's the EGR, pull the vac line off the EGR valve (and plug it with a golf tee or something, it should be sucking air if the engine's running and the the EGRC solenoid is open). If the EGR valve is working, that should close it. If it's not working, you could loosen the bolts holding it to the manifold and slip a piece of pop can or something in between as a temporary block-off. Download the service manual from Nicoclub and check out the EF&EC section. Lots of diagnostic info in there. The EL section has a harness layout that should help you find where the EGR connections are supposed to be and which harness they're in so you can track them down. Hopefully some muppet didn't hack up the harness. It's also possible that the EGR is already blocked off and something else is giving you issues as it warms up. Given that the EGR has obviously been messed with, though, I would start there.

two inch spacer would be the maximum with stock springs. If you have watched the videos, you’ll know how a spacer affects suspension geometry Sent from my Pathfinder

Congratulations. Getting a great deal on a used car you can tell has been cared for is always awesome. And even better if it is a former friend/acquaintance you can catch back up with. I've been driving a 2006 Acura MDX I bought for a great price from a friend. I've had lots of frustrations working on it. It was still a good price even with all the irritation. It's a smooth riding car for our long camping trips and lots of creature comforts. But I'm looking forward to the day I get to look for a newer R51 Pathfinder, Infiniti SUV, or maybe a Toyota/Lexus something. But Toyotas have a huge premium too.

After a day of talking with the fabrication shop Npora Cowl Covers are now available. https://www.rohdefab.com/shop/p/vjuc68luia2x6863af5ezr15nd7ulj

The easiest way is to look at the boots. They should have a nissan logo if they are original. Sent from my Pathfinder

Reviving this thread finally. I spent some time over the course of 3 months trying to loosen that damn crank nut. I never could get the thing to loosen without an impact wrench. Shortly after trying that I injured my back real bad at work and it took a while to recover from it and then there was... 2020. So... Here I am 2 years later, I sold my green Pathy to a neighbor who then sold it to another neighbor, and then he sold it to one of his friends. That friend of his has it still and we talk about getting mine up and running often. Well thanks to stimulus #3 I've got more parts and a renewed interest to getting my black Pathfinder running. Some things are better over time right? I now have 6 new fuel injectors ready to be installed. I have bought new belts, coolant hoses, a coolant reservoir because the original is literally falling apart, fan clutch, fan blade, starter motor, and various other parts. Just about everything I could think of other than the water pump. If the water pump does go out at some point I'll take it to a local shop and have them get that crank nut off. After 2 years the garage has also become a clutter magnet from storing other things so I gotta get the garage cleaned out too but we all know what that's like I imagine. BUT, I'm ready to fix this thing and start enjoying the wonderful Montana backroads. As with before I will take some pictures and post them along with my commentary. As I like to proclaim, enjoy the ride! P.S.: Thanks to all of the previous posters in this thread and all of the other wonderful how-to and rebuild threads out there. This forum is worth its text in gold.

Hi Folks, A note on progress on my Pathfinder EV conversion....... The front and rear LSD diffs recommended by Hawairish have been ordered: The rear is coming from Quaife in England, the front from Russia. All ICE hardware has been removed from the 'donor' Pathfinder. I had a machine shop fabricate a cradle out of 1/2'' steel to hold the Siemens electric motor, the 2:1 Torquebox, and the OEM transfer case in perfect alignment. After a fair amount of physical wrangling that setup is installed in place of the old engine and transmission. No changes to the drive shafts were necessary. Lots of room in the engine compartment to start installing other hardware: The inverter/controller goes in there, as do about ½ of the traction battery pack, an electric vacuume pump, an electric AC compressor, plus a compact a 5KW electric heater that will feed the stock HVAC system. The other half of the traction battery pack will be installed inside the cabin behind the second row of seats....third row of seats have been removed permanently. Diffs are arriving in the next week or two. An unexpected side-deal: The OEM Nissan automatic transmission and rear differential carrier & gears was bought by another Pathfinder owner, reducing the cost of the donor vehicle by more than half. Will post some photos next time. Cheers, Gerry

If the pump truly is bad, I would only replace it with an OE pump. Aftermarket ones are hot trash these days.

So after one day of this thread being started, we've had a great amount of interest in kits! We're trying to respond to everyone as quickly as possible. As a heads up, we should mention that we're going to try to fulfill requests for kits in batches. Right now, we're basically down to a partial kit from our original batch of 8 kits, and we're in touch with the guys who we can help in the near term. As for the next batch, we're looking into new material costs, kit interest by size, and our schedules to see what we can pull off in short order. Since we plan to have a bit more variety in kits, this should also allow us to keep a few other items in stock or sell components separately, since there's also been a good amount of interest in that. I also want to request you post up any questions you have about the kit here, so we can share answers with the community. We've already gotten a few really good questions in PM's...there's a lot to know about SFDs, that's for sure, and historically, this information has been scattered around for the past decade. We hope to consolidate all that information here. In the meantime, let me expand on a few of the required items/purchases that TowndawgR50 mentioned in the initial post. These are the parts that most guys may already have, or have access to (via other posts around the forum), that we've ultimately decided to not include with the kit. In most cases, we can help with source or fabricate the parts, but the parts just haven't been deemed "kitable" for one reason or another. Also, we've got an instruction guide that'll go into much more depth than here. If you need further clarification, let us know. Longer Brake Lines: The SFD requires longer front brake lines, simply because of the nature of the kit. Custom braided lines can be sourced from various retailers, but 2008-2017 Rogue brake lines (OEM or aftermarket) can also be used. I run Rogue lines on my truck, and TowndawgR50 runs custom braided. Same is true for the rear brake lines, though this is SFD-agnostic. 98-04 Frontier 4wd and 00-04 Xterra 4wd rear lines are a suitable replacement (also what I run). Power Steering Hardline Support: There's a high-pressure hard line that runs between the power steering pump and rack that has a mounting point on the crossmember. The hardline is actually a hardline that has a heavy duty hose crimped to it, and there's a factory bracket near the union of the two line types. When the SFD is installed, that bracket must be detached from the crossmember to allow for slack on the line when the subframe is dropped. We've chosen to not include a universal bracket for this because relocation of the line has been rather variable on all our installs. The length of the bracket doesn't correspond to the height of the SFD because the steering rack has to be rotated a few degrees, and the line may need to be hand-bent a tiny amount to either allow for slack or clear the bolts on the rack bracket so they can be accessed for high-torque tightening. In the end, the final relative position of the OE bracket can be 2"-4" from the crossmember, and may also move forward relative to the cross member another inch or so. Additionally, the racks between early and late model R50s were different, as were the lines, positions, and even the bracket itself. Ultimately, no single bracket would work in every situation, so it's best that the installer make a simple bracket once the installation is complete and the resting position is determined. The bracket can be as simple as a vise-bent strip of aluminum or other similar strapping with a pair of holes. No matter the approach, this line should be secured, as vibration in the line may cause stress at the banjo fitting. Extended Sway Bar Links: This applies to the rear suspension only. OE-length front sway bar links are fine, since the sway bar positions are relative to the subframe. We can provide extended rear sway bar links, but they are not included with the kit since they're based on the amount of rear lift (which isn't a factor for SFD installs). Missing Link: Most people know about these and have one installed in some shape or form. For those not familiar, we're calling it a structural device that reduces flexing on the subframe by linking the lower control arm rear mounting points. This was not a factory item, but this community has long agreed that it should've been one, if for nothing more than to stiffen up the front or mount skid plates to. However, we have deemed the ML as a required item that must be either purchased or fabricated because the nature of the install increases leverage on the chassis where the rear extensions of the subframe are mounted. And yes, we have seen a failure on an SFD-equipped truck that did not have a missing link installed. Notably, we don't have a specific ML product, but it's something we can fabricate. Skid Plates: These can't be reused because the mounting positions will have changed. I also want add notes on the following items: Existing Strut Spacers: most guys are already running static strut spacers, which means the OE strut mount has been modified to accommodate longer bolts. Our strut spacers are designed to use the OE studs on the mounts, which means that it may be necessary to disassemble the strut to remove the bolts. We are able to provide a set of bolts and nuts to replace those for a small fee. Alternatively, if the OE studs were retained, they can probably be reinstalled if the OE mount was not further modified (i.e., drilled, welded). Otherwise, new mounts may be purchased from Nissan dealers. Existing spacers should not be stacked with our strut spacers. Camber Adjustment: Our strut spacer do feature a slotted body that allows for some amount of camber adjustment. However, these are primarily used for gross adjustment only; it's highly unlikely that an alignment shop will touch these for service work. The use of camber bolts is highly recommended, and may be required to dial-in alignment. The guys in our initial group have not had any issues getting a shop to align their trucks with a single set of bolts (I want to say one of the trucks didn't use camber bolts at all). Our trucks use 14mm bolts. As stated above, we've got installation instructions, and all of the above points (and more) are covered in it more detail. We're considering breaking out some the topics into smaller sections (it's a long read as-is) before posting links to PDFs and such. But for now, we'll trickle out that information here so that it's a bit more public.

FFS Nissan has had so many opportunities to do it right and each time they friggin take the easy way out. I know these crossover pieces of @!*% sell more but Nissan used to be a brand people were very loyal to, look at the d21 and the Z crowd, and to a lesser extent, the Xterra crowd. I still remember all the hype when they came out, it was a big deal, and I was only 16 at the time. I will probably not buy another Nissan ever again. The new frontier is OK but no manual option means I won't be looking at it (will likely look at 2nd gen fronty's with a 6 speed). That whole no one wants manuals thing is bull@!*% and really only in North America...

I was just driving down the road, on the way back to my job with a smile on my face, and THUD....engine is dead. I coast into the turning lane and put it in park. Attempts to crank the engine all fail...the engine turns over and sounds completely normal but just will not crank! I get out and look under the hood for some time and cant locate a single thing that might be wrong. After sitting there a while and debating whether to walk back or call someone (just started a new job and didnt want them to think I suck at fixing things...if only they saw my transmission blunder hahahaha) I remembered that I have the OBDii scanner and so I ran a scan. "P1320 Primary Ignition Signal Fault" was the code.. After researching for a little while I settled on the coil pack inside the distributor. Damn! I work in the middle of Lawrenceville GA on highway 20 and there's a ton of traffic... I waited for a break in traffic far off in the distance and started pushing as hard as I could and when the break got to where I was I jerked the wheel and made it across the lanes into a small African produce store. I went inside the store and the kindest old African man not only let me leave my car in front of his store but also insisted on helping me fix the issue. The part wouldn't be there until much later that evening so I thanked him and walked back to work. A month or so prior my best friend and I went to a junkyard we found in the middle of Jefferson GA and I just so happened to find a pristine factory OEM Nissan distributor on a QX4 that just so happened to also have the rear wing that I'd been searching for since the beginning of this thread! I had my wife bring me the part and my vehicle fired right up! Woo! Now I have a waterfall of an oil leak coming from somewhere...better not be the heads! I believe its a camshaft seal or maybe the front crank seal. We shall see...I'm adding 2-3quarts a week at this point.

No problem, Gerry! Please keep us posted on this project, it sounds great! Oh, and we love pics here at NPORA...post some up when you can. Again, having looked into an EV conversion recently myself (on a far simpler Nissan platform...practically without any electronics), I was definitely intrigued by the idea, so I absolutely want to see (and learn and contribute) more. A particular Ford Ranger done by EV West several years ago struck me as the standard I'd want to achieve. I'm planning to rebuild the engine and transmission later this year, so you've still got time to convince me (I do have shiny new headers in a box, and an eyeball on a turbocharger kit, btw...). Sounds like you've had a great career, but sorry to hear about the accident. Better to have some mobility than none, I'll say, so I'm glad you're able to make the most of it and hopefully there's still room for improvement. This project is one helluva way to prove what you're still capable of. As for the conversion, I was definitely seeing a declining cost for equipment, especially for salvaged OEM batteries. For sure, an array of standard car batteries isn't any cheaper today than it was a decade ago. And pretty funny to hear you've got two of the BMW i3 batteries already...it feels like those are almost brand new cars still! Display looks pretty slick, too. (BTW, for anyone looking, remove the "." from the URL.) About the R51 transfer case...just to be sure, does yours have the "Auto" mode on the dial? I knew the R51 to have the ATX14B All-Mode case (some R50s and all QX4s have the ATX14A), but I did not realize that the FSM also specs the TX15B as being an option (this was the only option on the Frontier and Xterra at the time). The R50 uses the TX10A case, which is a lever-driven Part-Time 4wd unit, while this TX15B unit is an actuator-driven relative that lacks an Auto mode on the dial switch (that is, 2H/4H/4L vs. 2H/Auto/4H/4L). More importantly, the TX cases lack the clutch-plate system—and consequently, a lot of complexity—that's in the ATX cases. Presuming you have the ATX, I feel like it'd be worth exploring the TX...spitballing here, but probably easy to find, I'd expect it to be a direct replacement, share similar (same?) wiring harnesses, same output flanges, etc. I'd probably still utilize the actuator system if I could (it read like there's a position sensor in it, too), if nothing more than to save the trouble of cutting into the transmission hump to install a lever and linkage, but perhaps the TX10A (also found on pre-MY05 Frontiers, Xterras, Pathfinders, and Hardbodies) would be a suitable donor for linkage, lever, and even shifter boots/bezels. Food for thought. Good call on getting the mechanical side of things sorted first, though. Also, I decided to do an actual search to see if others have tried the Quaife...and sure enough they have, so I'm certain we're on the right path. I prefer to do my own research on stuff like this (in this case, I would've never had a reason to bother looking), but I'm always certain I'm not the first to reach such conclusions. This was the first result: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/quaife-qdf11l-installed-in-my-c200k-rear-axle.350923/. The author used a QDF11L, which supports the carrier break theory as his 2015 Frontier S 2.5L would have a gear ratio of either 4.083 (49:12) or 4.363 (48:11). It at least confirms that the overall carrier series dimensions are spot on, so now it's just a matter of confirming L4.

Update, the work is done )a couple months ago now) . Found a reliable and reasonable local shop who did the whole job (timing belt and seals, new radiator & hoses, thermostat, water pump, belts, bypass hose, filled coolant, and replaced the brake master cylinder with a new one) for $560 in labor. I supplied the parts and found two shops that won't use parts they don't provide. So, they had the pathfinder a few days total and did a great job all told. Thanks to all the friendly help adamzan, Sassafrasparilla, Slartibartfast ! https://imgur.com/gallery/XjrW3Y3<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/XjrW3Y3" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/XjrW3Y3">1992 Nissan Pathfinder SE Repairs</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

ARB finally released the insulation bag for the fridge. I got a pair of maxtrax too but forgot to get a photo. I found a great deal on a second pair so will have two sets on my roof rack. Sent from my Pathfinder

I always felt a bit sketchy just putting my HiLift on the load bars (just waiting for the day I popped the cargo glass); so I expect I’d be worried about trying to mount it over the hood without accidentally hitting my hood. That’s just me being a worrier though as it’s done on alot of vehicles. My HiLift is red so that would have been me - I think red would look good. As for the location, as you pointed out, it’s a totally legitimate mounting spot with countless Jeeps & other vehicles doing it. I really do think you should do a mini write-up as I believe you are the first to tackle it and it’s always good to have options. It would be a genuine contribution to the community. Yeah, regionally our roads are wet, slick & even growing the vast majority of the year in the PNW - very different than for you. Also, manual hubs will allow you to do a field CV replacement without removing the wheel - it’s why I’m doing it. You should hit the Alpine Loop area over around Lake City while your doing Yankee Boy. You can do a loop over to Telluride no problem via Imogene & Ophir. I did that whole area as largely stock. I did not do Black Bear as I was always told you needed a short wheelbase and this was the early 2000s where there was no YouTube to show me differently. On your drive go & fro I highly recommend Medano & Stony Pass. If you look towards the beginning of my IG (RainG0at), you’ll see some pics. I was basing out of CO Springs for that trip. Also, as I’ve now said elsewhere more than once, put a winter Big Bend trip on your ToDo. That’s a great trip. I think you’ll be the only other Pathfinder I’ve seen there (actually my first trip was circa ‘92 in a base 2 door Trooper. Oh yeah, O2 sensors are a given. I’ve done at least 4 in 110K. Buy them cheap & they’re easy to switch out.

NRC9449 w/32” tires puts my rear at 37” for now. Maybe it’ll settle down to 36.5?

First large haul today. Estimating 3-400lbs of wet, fresh cut cherry wood. Not really sure what the weight was but the springs had minimal droop. Felt it in braking and hill climbs though. Pretty good load. unloaded partial load Loaded

Holy crap, that's some fast shipping! I ordered the springs on Tuesday and I am receiving them today, Thursday. From fricken England!

My final numbers: Rear went with 9447 and Bilstein 1525 shocks LR - 34 1/4" to 38 1/2" settled to 37.5" net 3 1/4" RR-33 3/4" to 38" settled to 37.5" net 3 3/4" 1 1/2" spacer with KYB struts. LF - 32 1/2" to 35 net 2 1/2" LR- 32" to 35 net 3" note on a slightly uneven shop floor. Today back was 37.5" and front was 35" for 2.5"rake both sides on my level driveway.

Thanks for sharing, and Im glad it worked out for you. I love seeing all these R50s running around on LR springs now! Ive got about 1000 miles on mine now and I really like how they ride.

Absolutely! I hope this can help others. Neilca and I used two different springs. NRC9447 is a front spring, Defender 90, 175lb rate, 2.5 inches of lift with no cutting. NRC9448 is a rear spring, Defender 90, 225lb rate, 4 inches of lift uncut, 3 inches with one coil cut.

How bad are the boots split? A lot of grime and stuff in there? If not then I'd Do this yourself. Its easy. Buy some good quality boots from Rockford Constant Velocity get yourself the bearings and seals and do it yourself. Its really not that big a deal. You'll need a 12 point socket to take off the CV. Mark orientation on everything as you take it apart so everything goes back together exactly. Take the Whole CV assembly apart as much as you can to clean out he old grease. Check of damage or wear on the components. If they've gone to hell then You'll have to buy a CV new or used, but the boots themselves are like 11 bucks each or something like that so I'm thinking go with the cheapest option first. Just use the FSM its got everything you need to know about the CV stuff in it and bearings and seals. Once again, If you've done the timing belt job, most things are a piece of cake after that. Don't be intimidated. And a note on the Money pit thought. All cars need maintenance. Even new vehicles. Your Vehicle is 15 years old. Rubber wears out, components start to fail. and as far as paying $1000 bucks for a car and being stressed about an additional 3500 to put in..... How much do you think a monthly payment would be for a new 35000 vehicle Each and every single month if say all you put down was $1000 to purchase? 3 months goes by and I bet your at $1000. And that's not including Standard Maintenance. Over the course of the 4-5 years of purchasing the vehicle the 35000 dollar price tag is a lot more then that as well. If it were up to me, I'd buy a $1000 dollar vehicle and dump $34000 dollars into it to make EXACTLY the way I wanted it and drive it everyday knowing its custom for me and my lifestyle instead of purchasing the standard model and then being disappointed with all the crap I would' love to change about it.

Exactly. Considering how hot the import industry has been these last 10 years, it's no surprise to see forced induction kits costing well over $2,000. Do your research, however, and you can find great deals.