Leaderboard

Nice drive in the Colorado colors

Bennett Pass - Mt. Hood National Forest - Oregon

I can’t remember the last time I posted on this forum… but yes I still have fun with Nissans. Latest victim…. 1995 HB with R2.8 Cummins / SAS

Out in the AZ desert shaking down the new toy, 02 with 5spd manual. Almost finished with my pathy; the mechanical work is done, waiting for some exterior components to come in to finish the build. Looking for other R50 owners in the Phoenix metro to run some trails.

Simply put, what did you do? Can you undo it? (I highly recommend you check the timing before going too far) B

The Alamo obstacle at Prairie City SVRA. Resembles a 3 level pyramid. Youtube video https://youtu.be/6sAECWDgJFQ

Update time, been busy with a new job and all the rigmarole that comes along with it. Have had Hoss out an adventure a couple of weeks ago, we went to Bridport, Tasmania, and went exploring the dunes, was a good day and Hoss was one of only two vehicles that didn't need assistance for the day. Crossing the Batman Bridge (yes that is it's name look it up ) Heading up the beach. Some of the crew for a glamour shot Stay tuned have some more cool things coming in the near future.

My saggy old girl. Funny thing I just took it on a trip with tons of beautiful spots for great photos and didn't even once I thought of framing the Pathy, poor thing.

I’ve done this on a 2001. Bought it with a broken secondary timing chain. It’s a pain in the butt. In this case I recommend getting a Chilton or Haynes (same pictures and instructions) as they actually were very helpful and had good pictures for reference. This project is a big but i would agree with you in this scenario and think at least pulling the timing cover is necessary to fix the problem. If you’re gonna pull the timing cover, you might as well replace the chains unless they look immaculate. Intake, battery, valve covers, much of the wire harness, a plethora of vacuum lines, radiator, fan, pulleys, harmonic balancer, vvt solenoids, cam bearing caps and timing chain cover comes off. Whether you replace the chains or chain tensioners, replace the gaskets and o-rings. There’s a ton of o-rings and seals associated with the timing chain cover and vvt components. Use your vin on nissanpartsdeal.com to look at the exploded view diagram of the timing chain assembly to find all the o-rings and gaskets. Order these from wherever you want but just make sure you replace them. Before you remove any chains, make sure the appropriate chains have the proper timing marks (mine was missing the timing mark for crankshaft sprocket and was hard to guess which link mated with the mark) also, don’t remove the bolts from the cam phasers for any reason. If you have any questions just let me know. I have a folder full of reference pics of the timing chain project.

Finally had the time to finish Cedar Tree today. Quite the butt pucker in a stock on a rainy day

My traction boards are mounted almost the same way, I had wing nuts on mine, but switched to threaded knobs, which made it a lot quicker to screw on and off. I also have a small locking cable (it's actually a snowboard cable lock) that I'll loop through the holes and the rack if I'm going to be parked somewhere sketchy. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Your welcome, making these videos is a great past time for me.

Just wanted to drop a line telling you that I appreciate your R50 centered YouTubes. It’s always great to have more R50 content out there.

Yeah,[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has super loaded his 9228 with no significant compression - the Britpart LR springs are everything they purport to be. Sagging rear Nissan springs are nothing new - totally true of my Pathy & even my ‘79 Z would crouch in the rear under acceleration or with any notable cargo. I actually don’t mind some forward rake - especially to counter sag under load but currently both trucks drive their headlights into the ground less than a hundred yards from the truck. The Pathy just needs its SFD put on but even the adjustable HIDs on the Q can’t counteract it. I don’t want spacers on the Q’s front suspension so hopefully the ARB OME MD will level her out better. This photo from the Q last night demonstrates the limitations pretty well. Additionally, peripheral lighting is terrible. I wasn’t planning on auxiliary lighting for the Q; however, I essentially can’t see anything laterally from just behind the extent of the side view mirrors so I’m reconsidering some low profile ditch lights. It’s the same reason I put laterally angled KC Slimlight fogs on the Pathy clear back in ‘03. They extended my peripheral view to behind the B pillar. Today’s ditch lights address this problem admirably and while I intend some 2x3 monsters with side shooters on the Pathy, I think I’ll go with a 1x2 or single low profile light on the Q. [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] used a CBI Frontier ditch light mount with good effect. I would turn these Element lights far more laterally & would prefer something in amber. (Pic is from Twisted Jake) I might entertain a small LED bar in the lower bumper as well (as demonstrated here by pathyqx on IG - let me know if he’s on the NPORA Forum as well) - again probably amber as experiencing [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] use of amber has convinced me to go that way from now on. His rooftop LED bar isn’t annoying behind me. I can see well with it even when I’m behind him and it works better with dust, rain & snow as well as in camp & with regard to insects.

Can confirm, the 9449s do not settle much and definitely don’t sag. I’ve had the rear loaded with the tire carrier, drawers, and a ton of tools/parts/gear for at least 8,000 miles consistently and I haven’t noticed any decrease in the amount of lift over time. They sit fairly level with all the weight so personally I love them, but obviously if you don’t keep the rear heavy there’s no point. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s a truck that is raked back with any cargo you add. My girlfriends 3rd gen T4R is like this and it irks the hell out of me

The new girl exploring her new home After ~500 miles, those springs just haven’t settled & her tail is just too high. Working on that!

Need to get the new shoes dirty.

I'm really gonna miss seeing your R50!

Update, installed new injectors! Bad news... My engine wiring harness seems to be trash. I can't for the life of me keep the truck running now.. and if it runs it surge's drastically... I'm at the point now that I can't even get the truck to start... When I initially installed the injectors it ran great! Noticed a slight power surge so I started toying with it and now it runs like poop gonna attempt to replace the engine wiring harness with a junkyard one! Can this really be my issue!? PLEASE HELP!!

Mods; Sorry I posted this in the wrong place. I tried to delete it.

Then I shall order a set of OEM injectors! Price is no issue here in my opinion! I just want a healthy running vg so I can supercharge it! I'm going to need a little extra power for the sandy areas I'm going to be living near! I did notice that my temp sensors just recently failed as well, and the injectors look very stock from the factory I think 2 or 3 of them are making funky noises. I currently only drive it maybe 50 miles a week. But it is going to become a daily and toy so really want it tip top! I'm about to install some temporary ebay injectors just to get by! I shall update shortly!

That is a 2000 GU.

No - it must have been the previous generation Rush. This was back in 2017 or so.. I did spend some time in Monteverde - we did some hiking in the Cloud Forest. We also spent time in Playa Hermosa, Liberia, the Rincon De La Vieja, and La Fortuna. Beautiful country.

I have a ‘91 5 speed. Over 310k. Depending on what else you’ve done during the tune up, fuel filter air filter and plugs are a must. If that’s been done definitely examine your injector’s. I’ve had the 3 under the manifold replaced with OEM (and the color code match is important.) by an old school Datsun/Nissan mechanic. Twice I had one go out, and to the credit of these VG 6 cylinders, it’s not as obvious as you would think that an injector is not cycling. The low end torque on these motors is one of my favorite things about them. And it would still run reasonable well on 5 cylinders once the RPMs were up, minus the MPG He used a stethoscope basically and jet me listen to the one that was falling. He insisted on only replacing the bad one, with OEM. And it made all the difference. The motor immediately could dig In nicely in 1st and 2nd. The OEM’s aren’t cheap, but seem to last a very long time. Good luck! Please update! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

what year is that patrol? I've got my eye on a couple 2005s.

Couple more basic projects from this summer. First is a GMRS radio setup. I went with a Midland MXT275 because it has all of the controls on the handset which allows discreet installation of the head unit, and everything can be tucked away when not in use. It also includes a nice little magnetic antenna. I installed the antenna behind the roof rack’s wind deflector on the passenger side, and ran the cable down underneath the windshield trim - through the passenger door jam, and into the passenger side footwell: I ended up attaching the head unit inside the top half of the center console, and run the hand set cable through the opening. The head unit is powered by the cigarette lighter plug in the bottom compartment. System works great and I was able to communicate with my party about 4-5 miles away through pretty dense forest. Also got a set of X-Bull style recovery boards, and made some mounts for my SE rack out of square U-bolts with self adhering felt pads and heat shrink to help protect the cross bars. I know this has been done before but maybe it’ll help someone visualize how to attach these with our roof racks. I'm going to get wing nuts instead of the 3/16th nuts that came with the U-bolts but this works okay for now: Up next is a IAC valve replacement for preventative maintenance. I have the OEM Hitachi part just need to find the time to do it..

He’s pretty busy right now but I was cleaning up his electrical a bit before he drove across country. He has one if the light control devices below (I have the same but not yet mounted. It requires only a single line into a control pad in the cabin (I think he used the clutch delete to pass through the firewall). Another line runs up the edge of the passenger side windshield (with his black color it’s pretty well hidden) to his rack. All of his exterior lighting is controlled by that pad & it sits in front of the shifter. 8 Gang LED On-off Car Control Switch Panel with Wiring Harness and Label Stickers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NRS53X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9iQXjlqrzAMo6

That would be great. Once I get some engine work, transmission work, pass smog, get insurance, and registration paid. lol

It looks GREAT in person. This was just one of the many shuttle runs we’ve done between Portland & Seattle to exchange parts. Here, @02_Pathy donated his old Falkens to me when he upsized on his rig. Watching him drive away, I can’t help but think it’s probably the best looking R50 out there!

A new addition to the barn this summer - these are day of sale pics. My goal had been a clone of my Pathy for eventual total parts interchangability or in house donor. An ‘02 would also get me the best OEM LS & a cabled throttle. I only had a limited time to purchase & overhaul it before it would be out of town for a year or so. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] spotted this one & a month later we had inspected it and I bought it. It’s the exact same exterior color & built just one month after my Pathy. The tan interior doesn’t match my Pathy & all my spares - plus it will make it harder to obscure gear left in the truck - but overall, I’m happy to have it. Only 123K & once we maintenance it & freshen the suspension, it should last a long time. Let the overhaul & modding begin! Many thanks to [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who has been heavily involved in every step of this process. As you can see - I didn’t even get it home before we’d removed the brushgaurds & he’d polished the headlights back to clarity.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for sharing your experience, well i've KO2 tires and the concern for ABS was for wild life's, they may get in between anytime.. so just to have safety for not skidding away from path.

But how will my pathfinder's chi ever align without its vibration crystals??? Thanks for the answer. To the bin they go.

I just done all 3 on mine 2 nights ago. about an hour to replace all 3 including manual trans mount. (Z24, not VG) Block of wood on a jack under the oil pan, replace one side at a time. Piece of cake.

The rear trans mount is actually quite simple. you really just need to put a jack on the tail housing. loosen the bolts on the mount and then raise the transmission assembly up to give you enough clearance to remove the mount. replace it and lower the assembly slowly while aligning the bolt holes. should not take any longer than 30 mins. the front motor mounts are similar but not as easy, as there is not an easy way to take the weight off the motor mounts. I had to replace one but it was over 15 years ago and can't remember what I had to go through to get it replaced.

On another note, my pathfinder is officially sold: Got 3500 out of it, which is what we bought it for. Sold it to a nice guy who wants to go camping and shooting with it. By the time all the parts were off, all that was really left was the lift and tires.

Status update: it was the distributor, I replaced it back in February and it runs great now

Been a bit busy (bloody flat out more like it) but I am making some slow progress between home renovations, new job, lockdowns and other car projects. Pulled the trans Transfer off And Glitter bomb!!! Took a few weeks to get down to Melbourne to pick up the replacement trans. All back together now just waiting on a new trans mount, and a break in the weather! Stay safe all

Just hit the big 300 mark

Double-check your MAF wiring. If you grounded the wrong wire, that could be what popped the fuse link, taking out power to the ECU (hopefully before anything else was damaged). The trans computer gets its TPS and engine speed data from the ECU, so it might just be pissed that it's not getting that. Should be one flash, then ten flickers, with one longer flicker corresponding to which circuit it thinks is damaged. If the Power light flashes continuously, it's got a power issue. Could be the TCU lost a power feed when the ECU's fuse link blew. In any case, the flashing power light seems like a symptom, not a cause. If the MAF ground checks out, check the injector wiring harness. Something is shorted out. ECCS is the first green relay (looking from the front). Labelled main relay on the fuse box cover in mine. The blue check relay is bulb check, for the idiot lights I think.

Beautiful spot along the Deschutes River in Central Oregon

On 17 Mile Road, AZ Front end def needs a different bumper

Unclogging the sunroof drain holes in a Nissan Pathfinder It seems every couple of years I'm trying to unclog the drain holes in my sunroof's channel. I found quite possibly the perfect tool for it, by accident. In a hardware store I stumbled upon this hair clog removing tool with a narrow tip, meant to clean out a drain, and fit through a small trap in the sink or bathtub. It's working far better than pipe cleaners or flexible rods, because it pulls dirt and debris out of the top end of the drain hole.

Strapped on the recovery tracks! Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

great video dude, looked like a lot of fun. I've said it before and I'll say it again, any new R50 owners gotta check out Tyler's youtube channel, the videos he has on all the details you need for the lift provide a TON of good info. Recent and up to date content, informative, and specifics. I spent a while digging through them when I first started working on my rig and it was an invaluable resource. The forum also has a ton of info, but the videos are straightforward and lay it all out in an easy to understand way. Suspension stuff is expensive and a little intimidating to do for the first time, and the videos gave me a lot of confidence in my purchases and my install! Keep up the videos dude, the work you put in is showing! Looking forward to whatever is your next project on the rig so I can steal some ideas hahahahaha

The ECU controls the compressor relay to switch on and off the compressor. It achieves this by using a power transistor commonly called a driver to drive the relay. It also uses inputs from the pressure switch, ambiant temperature, evaporator temperature, throttle position, and the HVAC control head. At least that is how the North American Pathfinders are. I suspect the Terrano is similar.

Hello guys I found something interesting today for Nissan Pathfinder who needs this information can easily be downloaded from here Nissan Pathfinder Service Manuals PDF Nissan Pathfinder Owner User Manuals PDF Nissan Parts Catalog Software - Nissan Fast 2012 contains information for Nissan submitted for European, Asian, American, Canadian and Japanese markets. Hope it helps Please make this a sticky.

Ok so here is where things stand right now with the pathy. I've been driving it as it was after my last update. Smoking issues seems to have gone away. Idle issues is still some what there but not nearly as bad. Ether way winter is starting to finally kick in over here in Syracuse. I just picked up a 2000 Saab 9-5 wagon so I could park my pathy for the winter and take care of some much needed issues. That and add a few cool up grades. If the money is there I may even do a SAS. IF THE MONEY IS THERE... Me and my other half our finally planning for our wedding and we need a pretty penny for it. So we'll see how it all plays out. I think I may do a full custom interior from front to back and maybe cage her before the SAS. The trans will be coming out and maybe even the engine too. Lots planned and she's earned it. Even my other half agrees with me on the repairs and upgrades. She's come to really like the Pathy and appreciate the fun and experiences she's brought us as a family. That always helps when it comes to spending money like that lol.

Try taking apart your seized motor and building a VG34E out of it.