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CALPATHY

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CALPATHY last won the day on May 16 2022

CALPATHY had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 Pathfinder SE 3.3, 5 speed, 4WD
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    Choose
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    California
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Yeah, something is wrong. My '97 (manual) gets 14-15 in the city and used to get 18-19 on highway, but after installing free-wheeling hubs I get around 20 in unlocked mode. (21 on great occasion with the wind behind me).
  2. It has always done that, so I don't think so.
  3. Mine "shudders" in really tight turns going slow when the manual hubs are locked, in unlocked mode it doesn't do that.
  4. My LSD has been sufficient on wet/dry trails and some snow, but I don't do rock climbing.
  5. Takes a while (once I had to drive almost 150 miles) before it starts registering codes again.
  6. Too much of a possibility of a bad connection to the solenoid at some point in time (plus mine is a manual it can still be started without a starter), the fuel pump kill switch would be better in my opinion (or you can just remove the fuel pump fuse if you only need it on occasion). The electrician probably spliced into the second stage of the ignition switch circuit.
  7. Personally I would not do it, but you can splice into the starter solenoid wire.
  8. No, but I've used Redline synthetic, no complaints, but I do have LSD, so it is the LSD version.
  9. Manual or AT? If manual it could be the switch on the clutch or clutch pedal adjustment.
  10. To add, with manual transmission coasting downhill in neutral there is a noticeable difference with front hubs locked vs unlocked. Locked it almost feels like one is riding the brakes. After installing the Warn hubs I gett .5 to 1 mile better gas mileage on the average, my best was 22 mph on the highway (usually it is 21 unless windy) unlocked.
  11. Couple of reasons, too much hassle sourcing parts and modifiying for not that much of a gain. Had I more time back then I might have done the mod.
  12. I explored the e-fan option long ago but never went through with it. If I remember correctly people were using Altima parts to make the e-fan conversion.
  13. You should, you will get better gas mileage. At least .5 mile city, 1 mile at least highway. And they are easy to install, there is an installation primer in the stickies, still, I believe.
  14. Try to program it again, sometimes it doesn't work on the first try or two (not that I would know).
  15. I saw that one when I was originally searching for answers, but that one is for the WD21. On the R50 the space to be gapped is app 2 1/2 inches and does not align anywheere close to a straight line, so the fittings suggested probably would not work too well unless bending the metal tubing. I am somewhat leery of trying to bend the metal tubing as I could easily kink or break it. My current solution is removing the short metal tubing between the clutch master cylinder, use a rubber line between the master cylinder onto the other end of the damper tubing. It seems that it is an M10 fittings, male and female, so in theory it should work. https://www.carid.com/dorman/clutch-hydraulic-hose-mpn-h38119.html I may add an M10 male female elbow at the master cylinder if the hose does not bend enough to prevent rubbing. So, unless someone may have had a more elegant solution, I'll be the guinea pig for this one. I further researched the damper on other vehicles, i. e. Lexus, other Nissans, BMW, Toyota, and most people who removed them were happier with the damper gone, they do seem problematic. Having all my cars manual, I always wondered why on occasion the clutch on the Pathy felt as if it were slipping, now I know why, the damper slows down the engagement; some people have even suggested that the clutch should last longer with the damper removed.
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