Search the Community

Please for the love of God let someone know what's going on here I just finished doing valve cover gaskets, getting new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new radiator, suspension rebuild, I really treated her right. I even turned the crankshaft by hand before trying to start it. I go to start her up, she'll crank for a moment like she has a low battery, then suddenly start clicking. When I check the battery voltage, it's around 11.5v. I tried again with a battery that was around 12.5, and it cranks longer, but still goes into the clicking thing. The fuel gauge drops to the minimum whenever I'm cranking, then goes back to a quarter tank. Mind you, that quarter tank is probably half a year old, and it wasn't very high quality gas to begin with. All the lights flash as you'd expect from a dead battery, but once again, battery isn't dead. My initial thoughts were either a security lockout, since I plugged the battery in with the key in the ignition, or the crankshaft position sensor, since I had a code for that and I had the replacement lying around but hadn't actually installed it yet. When I crawled under to double check where the crankshaft position sensor is, because I had an existing code for that, I noticed there was something dripping from the oil pan. I thought "Oh, guess the valve covers weren't the only leak", but to my shock, it was coolant dripping from the oil pan, not oil. I immediately grabbed a wrench and undid the oil pan bolt, only to find nice, clean oil. Which unfortunately doesn't ease my mind much, since the coolant is also completely clean and fresh looking, so that doesn't exactly sate the part of my brain that worries there's a layer of coolant just sitting on top of the oil in the pan. But why would that literally ever be the case? Every time I've seen oil and coolant separated in the oil pan, the coolant is the bottom layer. Dipstick is just clean oil, too. The car hasn't even actually started yet. How could cranking it for a couple minutes tops possibly dump coolant into the oil pan? Why would it be so clean and not milkshaked at all if the motor spun while it was cranking? Is it a cracked block, or is the coolant coming from somewhere else, like the heater core hoses or something, and it's just dripping in the scariest possible place? This thing was completely fine when I parked it, I parked it over a wheel bearing and decided to give it the full treatment before putting it back in service. What could possibly be causing this problem? I have my own list of troubleshooting steps I'm gonna go through. I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drain all that fresh oil out to see if there's a layer of coolant on top, or, y'know, if coolant settles to the bottom of the pan overnight. If it's not the absolute disaster my brain won't stop circling around, then I'll install a new crankshaft position sensor and go grab some 91 non-ethanol gas to dilute the stale gas with. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes, make sure the truck is closed and locked up, then reconnect the battery and unlock it with the key to minimize the chance of a security lockout After that, uhhhhh kind of out of ideas other than "Time to start tearing it apart and looking for anything that might be keeping it from starting". Yes, I probably should have done those things before posting, but I've been working for like 12 straight hours just to get to the finish line and have a panic attack. I just spent my last like 4 paychecks on this thing and was really relying on it during a move. If it's the worst case scenario, I have absolutely no idea what I'm gonna do. So, if anyone has any ideas other than what's already been listed, reassurance that I'm on the right track, or ESPECIALLY if anyone knows where the hell that coolant could possibly be coming from, please let me know. Thanks for reading my memoir. Here's some pics of the coolant dripping and the clean oil. Yes, I'm aware the oil pan should be replaced because of the rust, but I mean, c'mon, that's not gonna magically make coolant appear.

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has had this same issue? My AC in the 97 doesn't blow any air on any setting I replaced to blower motor and checked the fuse but nothing. Any ideas or has anyone had a similar issue? It sometimes will work randomly every couple of months. The air that does blow through from wind is cold. So it still works just don't blow.

Basically,My intake manifold is not only leaking but its so annoying to do mantaince with that big intake on, I know the Z31 intake flows better this is the intake im saying,my question is, does it fit the pathfinder hood,can you use stock vg33e maf,tps,and all throttle body sensors on it, and can the throttle body from 3.3 fit that Z31 intake,and also that if it bolts to the stock head,I'm tired of hearing the hissing noise from the leak,it feels more sluggish,I gotta change spark plugs but I also wanna change intake, to replace both and make it easier to work on her

A link to the video showing the problem Good morning everyone, I have this issue with my car where it will crank but it won’t start, the crank gets weaker on each try until it doesn’t crank at all. The battery is 2 years old and 1 month ago it has been sitting for 2 weeks straight with the radio turned on by mistake while I was somewhere else, until the car ran out of battery and I had to jump start it, it worked fine like that but today I have woken up to this issue, I just wanted to know if it seems like just a dead battery or something else could be the issue. I manually bleed the fuel using the fuel filter primer and there’s no air bubbles in the fuel, the spark plugs seem fine, the car always has a rough idle but I guess that’s because the IACV must be dirty and I’ll have to clean it, it usually starts on the second try.

2003 Pathfinder SE 4x4 3.5L AT w/ 227,000 mi. I bought this put about 150-200 miles on it the first two days I had it and otw home that second day owning it, it overheated, and poured coolant everywhere. This happened about a 1/4 from my driveway. Let engine cool and got a pull from a buddy to my driveway. I located hole, replaced radiator, checked thermostat in boiling water and it opened (have a new one otw), put everything back in except the plastic molding around fan, have no leaks, burped the system, and checked air filter. Filter clean, replaced, checked oil and was fine, started it. Was rough to start, but after a couple revs it idled out and did so perfectly for about 10 min. About that time I was finished cleaning some stuff up and was going to do a short drive through the neighborhood. Dang if it didn’t sputter a few times, rpms drop, and stalled. Was able to turn over and get started again but stalled again after running rough for maybe a couple minutes. Since it may start and run for less than a minute then sputters and stalls. Almost seems like it builds up pressure and locks up, stops getting fuel, but I don’t know. it sounds like the fuel pump is priming when I power the car on. Not overheating, oil checks out, not showing check engine light. Checked for intake leaks and everything looks great. New plugs and coils were replaced very recently. MAF? O2 sensor? Im in a bind and have not been mobile in two weeks therefore not working. Please help and provide me any ideas you have.

I had a pair of Gabriel struts snap in half as i was driving (unlucky right?), so rather than do a factory substitute/replacement again, I'm opting to do like I did for my rear shocks+coils, and upgrade them to whatever the best thing that fits the car is so i don't have to worry about it again (I opted for the Bilstein 5165 25-187748 extended travel shocks and LR 9448/9449 coils). After reading up a bunch on this forum I've found that the Old Man Emu/ARB N145S and N146S struts should work. I'm just confused on how it mounts, does it use the original strut assembly or replace it? If I bought just the struts, and coils, could I take it to a shop and have it installed without buying anything else? And as far as the coils I think I've found what will work but I'm not totally sure (link here). I have a 2 inch spacer lift currently installed on the front that i got from SFCreation.com, and I'd like to keep that lift as I have a 4 inch lift in the rear from the LR coils and I don't want to be drooping too far down in the front. I'm unsure if the spacer lift can be used with the ARB/OME struts and coils though. Does anyone have any knowledge on any of this? Or photos on how the N145S/N146S struts mount onto the car? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have experience removing the brain for the keyless entry system? I've troubleshot everything else regarding my intermittent fob and while it works significantly better than before it is still not great. I've located the unit under the wheel but am not sure the best way to remove it to inspect. If I am able to remove it will my fob or key need to be reprogrammed? Also, will removing it set my alarm off?? I'm a newbie with this sort of tinkering and would appreciate any advice.

I've been researching what shocks to get for my 4" lifted QX4 and I've settled on the 5165 but I'm not sure what bushings i need to fit into it. I read in some posts that it is a necessary step. And its understandable of course since the bushings are unsupported sizes for the r50. Is there a part number anyone could provide me for 5/8 bushings that fit the 5165 25-261400's? I saw that Jax99 ran that model. Also are there any inconveniences or tradeoffs anyone experiences from running the 5165s with the external reservoir? Things like whether or not the tube rubs the tire. My front end is spacer lifted 2.5" and my rear has LR 9448/9449 coils providing 4" of lift. I had looked at the 5165 25-187748 because it has a 17.93" compressed length which is very close to some 5125's (33-185569) I've seen some people running that have a 17.91" compressed length (with 11.8" travel). However the 25-187748 5165 has 17.93" compressed length AND 13.1" of travel. Which is quite an upgrade. Not to mention both of these shocks use 5/8 bushings for both top and bottom. Is there something I'm missing on why people aren't using the 25-187748 5165's? I saw one or two posts about people using the 25-261400's. Those come stock with 12mm eyes. To me at least it doesn't quite add up on why people would buy shocks that have incorrectly sized bushings that they have to switch, over just getting a model that has 5/8 eyes to start that, (to my knowledge) work on the r50 out of the box. But there may be something I'm not aware of. The way I see it, the 33-185569's seem objectively better due to the higher travel. And the fact that it has the same mounting length as other shocks I've seen r50 owners run means i know that the length is supported. And the 5/8 fitting seems perfect as I wouldn't have to switch the eye out. This is the parts+size chart I used - https://www.shockwarehouse.com/pages/bilstein-b8-series-measurements Sorry if this is a big information dump and a lot to ask but any info helps. I appreciate anything. Thanks in advance

Hello! I'm a new member here and let me introduce myself before I ask for my plea of help. Few weeks ago, my mom asked me if I could do some repairs to her 99.5 Pathfinder, I said yes like any good son would do. I only took the job because I was very intrigued about Nissan's VG. Personally I have a lot of experience with Toyota's 5VZ and I was like "How hard can it be, THIS FINNA BE A BREEZE." (big mistake). So first thing I took care of was the fuel filter, it was kinda tricky to deal with but I got it done. So I moved to the front and got ready for the main meal, the replacement of the Knock sensor and all the gaskets in between and the valve cover gaskets of course. So it was going pretty swell until I was about to take off the last bolt of the intake manifold. And mind you, this is the one in the very back against the firewall, I go in to loosen it and after one decent turn the head strips... It's been a few days since this tragic event has occurred, i've tried everything from rubber bands to speed outs. If you guys have an ideas please help me out.

I have an '88 Pathfinder 3.0 v6 that has been giving me trouble for the past 5 months. I just replaced the throttle body (entire unit, sensors too) and now I have a whole new problem. It used to surge up and down erratically, but now it wont even stay running. I think its flooding itself out. It also has a high pitched whistle (no, I dont have a vacuum leak. Ive checked) and will run fine for a few seconds then stumble and die. Ive been struggling for months with this problem, can someone please help me?

Hello everyone ? I siezed the engine in my 01 pathfinder. It has a 5 speed manual transmission and 4x4. I purchased a 96 pathfinder as a donor vehicle.. as the were both R50's. *?* I was wondering if there is anyway a person would be able to swap a VG33E onto a VQ35DE 5 speed manual transmission? Or the best place to look for an Adapter-kit?

I just rebuilt my throttle body and finally got my 1988 Pathfinder started again. It was pretty rough starting but it coughed to life. It was fine for about 10 seconds until the RPMs started surging up and down. Can someone please help me?

I own a 97 SE Pathfinder with standard transmission and I'm mounting a trailer hitch for camping. (yes i know the standard is rated for 3500.) All my trailers especially this one require the 7-Pin heavy duty plug and I'm not to sure how to wire it in. I've heard there's already a harness under the frame i can use but couldn't find what I read. Running my blue (brake) wire is not an issue and neither is my 12v. Where do i find the wires i split off of or if possible buy a harness spliter to put in with it. Thanks.

I plan on lifting my 2001 Qx4 but i cannot find anything more than 2.5'' in the front and 3'' in the back. Does anybody have any solutions to this? I thought about ordering two sets of the strut spacers and just stacking to desired height but wasn't sure if that was the safest route to go. Not sure about doing an SFD, still researching those. primarily looking for a suspension or body lift. If anyone has any ideas or alternatives please let me know! Thanks!

So I have a 1990 Nissan Pathfinder and the motor is knocking horribly after 352 thousand miles. I heard alot about a VG33 swap to make moar power but I'm unsure as what to swap over. I know everything would connect up and I know the cams from the 30 need to go in the 33 for moar lift and moar power. What else do I need to swap over? I do not wanna get it rebuilt or anything as long as the thing runs. I dont got that money. In regards to the engine swap, What do I need to unbolt from the engine/disconnect. Its a manual 4x4. The list is this so far Fuel return and feed line Witing harness Sensors 13 bolts on transmission Drain and disconnect radiator AC I'm getting rid of Engine mounts Exhaust headers Anything else? Or should I go with another 3.0 and turbo it after everything is complete. Im honestly unsure of what to do. I want to keep my Pathy running for as long as possible.

Hey this is my first post here! I hope someone out there can help me. I live in Canada and just bought myself a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, it needs some other maintenance work first. But while I do that I don't want to keep it on the small tires that it has. Which are 265/70R15's, I was thinking of doing a 2" lift kit, not sure how big of tires and wheels but enough to go do some off roading. Looking to get beefy like steel wheels, nothing expensive or fancy. Then replace the bumpers with something like iron cross style that cover the headlights, and do a roof rack plus "f-u lights". I don't have many ideas of where to start, or places to buy from, so I was hoping someone out here would lend me a hand in figuring specs out or if anyone has tried somethings and has advice. That'd be great too.

So I bought a rejected and abandoned WD21 Pathfinder in May and I named him Tanner. Tanner has been through hell and highwaters when it comes to everything since he had 345 thousand miles on him when I bought him. He is my first car ever and I love the truck to death. But recently I was on my way to pick up my girlfriend and Tanner broke down. Hard. As I was going uphill he started backfiring so badly (sounded like Anti Lag or two step loud) and I lost all power. I tried turning him over and all he did was backfire I managed to back my way partially downhill and spin him around. I did and I popped the clutch and he fired right back up but as soon as I stepped on the gas, boom dead. I found out that my distributor was gone and I thought it initially was the timing belt. I replaced the timing belt and distributor but the sad thing is, none of it fixed him. He's been sitting in the apartment complex I live in for two weeks now and already inpounded once. I am so desperate for help right now. I got a mobile mechanic to come look at it and he almost ran after I corrected distributor wiring but he didn't. I want my pathy back and running as when I do, I plan on giving him to my girlfriend as her first car. I need help on what to do. I wanna swap a supercharged VG33 into it from an Xterra to make more power. I know it may sound silly of me to want to keep him running but he holds special value since he's my first car, first stickshift I ever drove, first car my girlfriend ever drove, and it conquered Devil's Canyon on mount Evans forwtbtey no problem with an offroading noob. I wouldn't care of he died at 200K but 350K is honerable and he deserves to keep living as he also has zero rust on the chassis's. Thanks for anybody reading this post.