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I was driving back from work then had to come to a stop on a red light and the truck started idling at 2k rpm i moved the mtps as low as possible and it was then at 1.2k at home i resetted the tps to factory position and just adjusted the idle screw now it idlesll at 800 rpm stopped but then when you're in neutral or press the clutch while moving anywhere past 5mph it revvs to 1.5k and when you revv it and lift of the throttle in neutral the truck drops to 425~ rpm before jumping back to 800, today I tried going to work and it just cranked and didn’t start the dizzy cap was shot so I bought a new one, it didn’t work so i bought an ignition module and coil but turns out it might be the ckp but where is the ckp VG33E FS5R30A

My '98 Pathfinder has recently started making an alarming sounding racket, from the lower end of the engine. As the title suggests, my thoughts go towards worst case scenario and say its a rod knock in its early stages. I've recorded a video of it, which is the worse the noise has been so far, and iirc the engine was at full operating temp. It's not quite as loud or deep as bad rod knock is, but that's why I say it could be in the early stages. It could be attributed to piston slap, but as far as I know, that sound would go away when it warms up, plus this sound has been happening for maybe 3 weeks now, as opposed to the 3 years that I've owned it. The youtube channel 'Auto can' has a series of videos diagnosing a vg33e knocking sound, and it turned out to be the keyways on the timing belt sprocket and crankshaft being very deformed, allowing the key to rattle around when running. I don't know if I'd rather have that than rod knock but it could be that as well considering how relatively quiet the noise is? One additional thought I had about this was that according to the maintenance records I have, the timing belt was done at 103k miles, and it now stands at 170k miles. Technically less than Nissan says to replace the belt, but not out of the possibility it needs replacing and could be contributing to the noise, right? I should also mention that I went on a quick drive before posting this, getting it to operating temp for around 15 minutes. Neither when it was idling cold nor after the drive did the noise come up, it sounded just as it did before the concern arose. I don't know what that means but probably good to know. This car was very nicely garage kept and maintained for most of it's life before I had it, and while sadly it did experience a decently big front end collision (that didn't immediately affect any mechanical components), I have been very on top of oil changes and other maintenance items, so it's very frustrating to see the engine potentially going to crap, especially so long before 200k miles.

Im tired of the thing being slow, it does a 0-60 in 9 secs,so,mods I've done:copper mod spark plug,Z31 injectors,stage 2 clutch,mid muffler delete,bigger rear muffler,added a 2nd muffler to the driver side manifold and thats it but.. after thinking a lot,knowing I have the fs5r30a thats from a R32,I know it can hold that turbo,I mean the manual used in my vg pathy is that one I think all manual vg paths had it,so I think it can hold it,also,I'll add downpipe,get Z31 oil pickup lines,bigger turbo than Z31,more aggressive cams,intercooler and oil cooler,but before all that I'll get stage 2 clutch for it,this might be the biggest vg Pathfinder build yet

Does a Nissan patrol 4.2 turbo diesel fits under the pathfinder hood? I want to go diesel, I really want it, but if not, a nabara/frontier is a good engine? 4cyl turbo diesel d23? Any recommendations? I want to keep it nissan btw

Hi, my 1993 SE starts and runs, but has white smoke and coolant coming from the exhaust. I'm a newbie, so I have a few questions. Since coolant is being burnt, I'm apprehensive about letting it run and warm up for a compression test. Is this concern valid? Or would it be okay and probably more accurate to let it warm up for about 10 minutes before I perform a compression test? Also, would it better to let it run for maybe a little less time than the recommended 10 minutes? I've also heard things about the #6 spark plug. Apparently it's a pain in the ass to remove. Would it be easier to just run the test with a cold engine? It also sounds like it's misfiring slightly, so that's another concern I have with letting it run for too long. I'd rather not create a whole other problem. Thanks!

I got a 95 pathfinder with 213300 plus on the odo, 2wd auto RE4RO1A trans.... There is a rattle and a tinging noise from the front of the engine like a bearing or bolt rattling around, I'm thinking timing belt related but settles down after 45 secs to a min and there is no noise when its up to temp, no misfires or engine codes...it just seems to be the worst on cold start ups. Belt tensioner cause this? Idler pulley? If I take things apart most of it cant go back on the engine to put it simply so taking time to troubleshoot so its not down for a month. Its weathered so new hardware is needed to anything I take off lol. It all looks original. After a hard pressure wash its also rust free and you can tell it sat for years but little rust so I'm saving her lol. Also have an oil leak from somewhere around or on the side of the engine cover around the oil filter and where the timing cover meets the upper plastic portion cover... Anything known to crack or wear out in those areas? I'm new to the VG engines and pathfinders in general. Hope the day goes well!

I have a 95 2wd pathfinder with a VG30E 213300 and on start up there is a rattle like tinging noise from the front of the engine, NOTE the more I take off the more I replace since everything is original lol so I'm in no rush to tear it down immediately so never hurts to bounce some ideas around... It is due for new belts.... As it warms up it gets better no misfires or hard starting either... After 45 seconds quiets down to normal.(tinging -rattling stops) The pulleys are ok but weathered, nothing crazy loud except the.a.c compressor and that's a different tick or tinging. A.c clutch is noisy but works... It all quiets down after a 45 to 55 seconds..Oil pressure is great, no codes thrown for anything except gas cap which is now fixed. Transmission has codes havent sat down long enough to.look at it yet.