Strato_54

Can second that, its easier to get a whole JY axle shaft with the bearings on than to change your self. i'm running all wheel disc thanks to Hawairish and his posts but it is possible yours are going out. took me a solid few days of work and almost lost a finger..... only the nail was the sacrifice... still wanted to ask how they seem. there should be 0 play in and out or basically next to 0.

how are the bearings?

back or sides is valve cover or rear main, front is usually cam and crank seals not normally does the valve cover leak from the front

The KS is barely used and is only used under really rough or extreme conditions. if you're chasing a stumble and fear the KS, unbolt it but plug it in and wrap it in a towel and see how it feels. When I had my scan gauge plugged in while I was still NA, I NEVER noticed a difference when I had a KS code vs not in the timing, they simply aren't making enough power and are already running way too rich to matter anyways. Once I became supercharged that is a different story as it changed timing advance NOT fuel mixture. Im having real knock issues but I think it's my VERY restrictive exhaust. Check your cats. It's 1 wire usually on the left pin of the plug. Its like that on my brothers 95 WD21, my 97 pathy, my donor VG33ER and my friends Xterra. Make sure your throttle position sensor is working and check your IAT sensor if you have one and anything from leaking between MAF and the cylinders is gonna cause a problem so even check your valve cover gaskets for huge holes, it pulls fresh air when you open the oil cap while its running believe it or not. You said dizzy swap but did you change the actual ignition coil? its not attached to the dizzy on the VG30 only the 33 is it built in. I would check your MAF and especially the O2 sensor since theres only 1 it relies on I believe. You could be having an O2 bias and it's sending a signal more one way than the other.

they're shaped differently so it may bolt on and work yes but it probably won't first the same in the vehicle. I can send picture of both my R50 and my brothers wd21 if needed

check your Diff breathers!!! I forgot that part

is your clutch fan dead? You can drive on the highway with the AC on with 0 fans but you really gotta be bookin' it for that. I run Efans so my driving temps are usually 174-178 (3.3 with a triple row aluminum and 170 thermostat) on the highway on a colder day and seem to like 190-200 with my fans on in traffic (gonna upgrade to T30's) so pretty cool for this engine but im also not running the clutch fan like I almost guarantee you still have. if you spin it with the engine off and it has next to 0 resistance its probably that. I don't know much about the 3.5 but don't they have an oil burning issue any ways? if your engine is getting hot and your oil starts thinning its gonna burn quicker so I wonder if you have a clutch fan issue and normal VQ issues also. just my input.

if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

Thank you! haha. It's been a treat for sure. I was going to do a write up style post but didn't feel I had enough pictures to go with the information.

Even if the dizzy is new it is common it goes out. My last one went because the little condenser on the side blew and wouldn't let enough voltage to the coil. I think no continuity or high resistance means it's bad or something like that. id have to check the old one. The fuel pump moves pretty slow so as for now assume its good if its flowing. If it doesn't change with the Maf unplug temp sensor and if that still won't work unplug the throttle. the NA VG33 ONLY requires MAF, Cam signal, Coolant temp, O2, and a throttle sensor to run properly. to a varying degree one of those can be non functional and it will still start no problem. every other sensor is OBD and emissions and doesn't affect tuning and engine performance. Unplug your primary O2 (post cats don't matter) and see how that runs. My bet is still the dizzy or its timing. it should idle even with both idles unplugged just not very well. EDIT: You won't even get a code for the dizzy if it's bad. I wasn't even getting misfire codes and the think could barely idle with out sounding like a Honda. sorry honda guys

I was going to do the same thing but decided for the work it's probably just worth doing the repin. I still get OBD which is nice I can use my blue driver as a second set of gauges for my coolant temp or on road trips to check codes. I drove it to dinner the other night about 40km away and it felt amazing. used half the fuel and I normally do and was a freight train up the hills. Cruise control was a blast to use with it too as it worked with 0 issues or adjustments. Still a couple things I gotta finish up but I've been driving it to work and am very happy. Not hammering on it too hard yet still trying to make sure it holds together but so far its solid

Not sure if my answer went through but I’ll try again lol exactly. If pin 1 was ignition signal then it moved to pin 1 in the X ecu. But pin 8 on the r50 is fuel pump so that moved to 11 on the X. I was able to sit with both pin out sheets and write each pin and what it converted to so it was easier to swap when it went in. This way it was a turn key upgrade which it would’ve been if I paid attention and didn’t mess up the fuel pump pin lol. 8 goes to 11 not back to 8 haha. 1 for like 100 isn’t bad but there wasn’t much to it really. Everything works no downsides once I started going it became fun but would I do it again? Absolutely the F not! That repinning sucks

Good day everyone, one morning I was on market place and found a VG33ER forsale for a decent price and for a and was a good few hours drive but I picked it up with no prior intention of swapping my pathfinder. The swap is pretty straightforward along as you have all the parts from an ER to swap. It is also 02 Xterra ECU swapped on the original body and engine harness. The pulley is swapped now as of writing to the 4x4parts 2.4 quick change pulley on the stock SCB cut off. It makes a significantly more amount of power than before and is absolutely worth it if you can afford the premium gas. ALTHOUGH, it seems the MPG has been improved since the swap at least at partial throttle which is pretty cool. It's also running factoy R50 airbox with all original sensors. Here's what was swapped Lower intake Injectors Fuel rails (minor differences) Supercharger Spark plugs Spark plug wires Thermostat 180 to 170 AC tensioner only NOT alternator Belts Crank pulley Water and ps pulley NOT alt ECU and plug Pas side valve cover (only for PCV valve) To swap the ECU most of the pins are in the same locations how ever not all. you WILL have to solder a larger pin on the orange IACV wire and to make the SCB safety work you can reuse and replumb the map/baro switch as the SCB and it works the same. All valves, sensors and anything else are original 97 pathfinder. You will have to run different length belts for all 3 now that the V belt is deleted, the crank and water pump are different size and the super charger belt needs to be a 5 rib and shorter unless you swap the AC comp. Cruise even works too! It drives incredible and I could not be more happy with the result. before the pulley it feels like a more peppy VQ but after the pulley it pulls harder than one for sure. When I dump the clutch I'm always first off the line even to the diesel guys that book it off the light (i'm looking at you Dodge owners) and it seems to run cooler than my friends bone stock X since mine has a hole in the hood and gets good cooling. Thanks. Donor engine in back of my r50 On floor after getting it home repinning the ECU plugs Cleaning Radiator shows up Installing charger and intake *borart voice* VERY NICEEE

Getting a strange whining noise whenever I accelerate and also have this weird thing in my hood. Anyone know how to fix this?

I'll take a deeper dive into that when I get to it. as long as the belt is covered BC laws don't care about hole in hood so im fine with that. I should be good I'm gonna reuse one of the OG map/baro switch in the vacuum piping and use it as my SCB valve. It seems to be the same and even part number I think so wiring 49 on the SCB should work like original. 1 other guy that did it to his qx4 but I don't think he swapped ECU and his just piggy back. With my ECU swap im expecting full proper OEM style performance with no downsides compared to my 97. I was thinking of doing a write up on how I did it and what you need to make this happen in an R50 and surprisingly, not as much work needs to be done as you would think. I thought it was impossible but now after more research and having all the parts its gonna be easy I'm hoping to have it done by mid June, granted my cams and radiator show up by then. Cam guy is slow and Ebay seems to also. oh well