Strato_54

Heck yeah thank you. If I can de-pin the plugs I was gonna do that. if I can survive me ECU repin then this is gonna be easy lol

Since I did my SC swap, I’ve had stock 3.3 injectors and rails laying around and was thinking about putting them in my brothers WD21. Will they work with the stock ECU? Most 3.3 swaps don’t really explicitly mentioning the ECU. I know the plugs and rails are slightly different but that’s it. Do I need my old ECU and MAF or just the plugs to be repinned?

ah slight miss understanding. I do leave the hoses connected to the throttle, what I meant is that the metal tubes under the intake, bolt to the intake which is why its so hard to remove those back 2 hoses. ill get a picture or video for you later tonight when I have time

just cut them like I do and its easy. if you unbolt the hoses from the plenum and on reinstallation don't put them back, it allows you to remove the plenum by just unbolting the throttle and not having to drain coolant next time. allowed me to reseal my injectors in 45 minutes with no headache on a SC!

sounds like maf issues or something sensor. if its not misfiring then its probably not ignition or fuel so its gonna be a sensor. if you have an obd scanner even a cheap one that does live data you should watch your maf voltage, fuel trims bank 1 and 2, and ignition. on the VG's they have 2 coolant temp sensors. 1 for the dash and one for the actual ECU. Check if that's the case and replace that sensor though that shouldnt limit RPM unless its shorted maybe. mirefire can mean sensor or engine issue, how ever if it sounds like it runs clean from idle - 2500 then its probably not hurt in a meaning full way. even if you jumped timing worst case scenario you'll get a code and would hear it. I doubt its hurt physically. you sound like me trying to diagnose why my SC falls flat for no reason and pulls timing (go fast problems)

My O2 ran lean bias for a long time I switched them and it cleaned up my idle issues. the wd21 only has 1 so its probably a fair chance its on its way out

ANSWER: No they are not different, they function the same its seems to be just weird FSM labeling. they are physically different but work the same.

I was looking at the FSM trying to fix an intermittent issue with my SC swap. The part numbers for the MAF is different for 96-97 and 98-00. the FSM also is stating 1.3-1.7v idle and 1.7-2.1v 2000 RPM. the 98-00 is states 1.0-1.7 idle and 1.7-2.3v at 2500 RPM instead. Are they really that different? There is a physical size difference too but the plug is the same so maybe?

You beat me too it I watched you post that haha! He's right make sure bleeder is up and make sure you didn't kink a hose. I did that to my rear when I first did the lift and didn't realize

check page 180 ef and ec - 8. it looks like to me its a connector between the main harness and ECM.

yes if its leaking before the O2 its going to affect the AFR. Anything between MAF and O2 should be a completely closed system. Try and patch that up and see how it runs. if its still off then I would check the base timing. I think its 15 degrees at idle with the lower throttle connector unplugged at operating temp. +/- 2 is fine but anything more than that is going to cause issues.

After 2.5 months its been amazing! The power is right where I want it, with not a crazy difference in fuel milage at partial throttle and its almost better when not in any boost. However, I've had a lot of issues with spark knock and after doing some digging it turns out the cheap Chinese dizzy I got from the part store wasn't sending the proper ECU information about timing.... who would've thought. After replacing the rotor and cap on a spare JY dizzy it seems to have fixed the issue and is hitting proper timing at proper boost. bit of a bummer actually but it seems to be more the cam sensor than the dizzy itself. lesson learned. Would I recommend this swap??? If you can afford the gas and the parts for the swap then absolutely!

1/2" and you can probably get away with like 1 foot worth. Also, unbolt the lower tubes from the upper plenum then you shouldn't have to cut them again next time. I did that on my Supercharger and it makes life WAY better the next time its gotta come off if you ever have to.

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

Check either MAF connection, O2 sensors or base ignition timing. These are the big 3 that will make it run rich. Assuming (never assume) there's no vacuum leak and the injectors are good from factory. Rich is usually a sign of bad combustion or too much air so if it thinks its getting too much its gonna freak out or If it seems improper timing it will dump fuel to keep it safe. only fancy tools you'll need is a timing light and maybe a volt meter to check some wiring. otherwise you can fix this thing with basic tools. Welcome to the forum

There's a few videos on the topic with people explaining how it went with varying degree of results. some say it was worth it and others say for the effort its not. I would fix the leak and not run the bypass unless it's on a valve because it prevents the throttle from freezing in the winter that's mainly all its for. Ive taken these apart a handful of times and its not super hard to take off the plenum its the hoses on the back side that make it hard. if you're replacing them, cut them to remove it. its the only way and actually says to do that in the service manuals. its only the 2 coolant hoses on the back one that goes to the engine and the other to the heater core.

Can second that, its easier to get a whole JY axle shaft with the bearings on than to change your self. i'm running all wheel disc thanks to Hawairish and his posts but it is possible yours are going out. took me a solid few days of work and almost lost a finger..... only the nail was the sacrifice... still wanted to ask how they seem. there should be 0 play in and out or basically next to 0.

how are the bearings?

back or sides is valve cover or rear main, front is usually cam and crank seals not normally does the valve cover leak from the front

The KS is barely used and is only used under really rough or extreme conditions. if you're chasing a stumble and fear the KS, unbolt it but plug it in and wrap it in a towel and see how it feels. When I had my scan gauge plugged in while I was still NA, I NEVER noticed a difference when I had a KS code vs not in the timing, they simply aren't making enough power and are already running way too rich to matter anyways. Once I became supercharged that is a different story as it changed timing advance NOT fuel mixture. Im having real knock issues but I think it's my VERY restrictive exhaust. Check your cats. It's 1 wire usually on the left pin of the plug. Its like that on my brothers 95 WD21, my 97 pathy, my donor VG33ER and my friends Xterra. Make sure your throttle position sensor is working and check your IAT sensor if you have one and anything from leaking between MAF and the cylinders is gonna cause a problem so even check your valve cover gaskets for huge holes, it pulls fresh air when you open the oil cap while its running believe it or not. You said dizzy swap but did you change the actual ignition coil? its not attached to the dizzy on the VG30 only the 33 is it built in. I would check your MAF and especially the O2 sensor since theres only 1 it relies on I believe. You could be having an O2 bias and it's sending a signal more one way than the other.

they're shaped differently so it may bolt on and work yes but it probably won't first the same in the vehicle. I can send picture of both my R50 and my brothers wd21 if needed

check your Diff breathers!!! I forgot that part

is your clutch fan dead? You can drive on the highway with the AC on with 0 fans but you really gotta be bookin' it for that. I run Efans so my driving temps are usually 174-178 (3.3 with a triple row aluminum and 170 thermostat) on the highway on a colder day and seem to like 190-200 with my fans on in traffic (gonna upgrade to T30's) so pretty cool for this engine but im also not running the clutch fan like I almost guarantee you still have. if you spin it with the engine off and it has next to 0 resistance its probably that. I don't know much about the 3.5 but don't they have an oil burning issue any ways? if your engine is getting hot and your oil starts thinning its gonna burn quicker so I wonder if you have a clutch fan issue and normal VQ issues also. just my input.

if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

Thank you! haha. It's been a treat for sure. I was going to do a write up style post but didn't feel I had enough pictures to go with the information.