Strato_54

if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

Thank you! haha. It's been a treat for sure. I was going to do a write up style post but didn't feel I had enough pictures to go with the information.

Even if the dizzy is new it is common it goes out. My last one went because the little condenser on the side blew and wouldn't let enough voltage to the coil. I think no continuity or high resistance means it's bad or something like that. id have to check the old one. The fuel pump moves pretty slow so as for now assume its good if its flowing. If it doesn't change with the Maf unplug temp sensor and if that still won't work unplug the throttle. the NA VG33 ONLY requires MAF, Cam signal, Coolant temp, O2, and a throttle sensor to run properly. to a varying degree one of those can be non functional and it will still start no problem. every other sensor is OBD and emissions and doesn't affect tuning and engine performance. Unplug your primary O2 (post cats don't matter) and see how that runs. My bet is still the dizzy or its timing. it should idle even with both idles unplugged just not very well. EDIT: You won't even get a code for the dizzy if it's bad. I wasn't even getting misfire codes and the think could barely idle with out sounding like a Honda. sorry honda guys

I was going to do the same thing but decided for the work it's probably just worth doing the repin. I still get OBD which is nice I can use my blue driver as a second set of gauges for my coolant temp or on road trips to check codes. I drove it to dinner the other night about 40km away and it felt amazing. used half the fuel and I normally do and was a freight train up the hills. Cruise control was a blast to use with it too as it worked with 0 issues or adjustments. Still a couple things I gotta finish up but I've been driving it to work and am very happy. Not hammering on it too hard yet still trying to make sure it holds together but so far its solid

Not sure if my answer went through but I’ll try again lol exactly. If pin 1 was ignition signal then it moved to pin 1 in the X ecu. But pin 8 on the r50 is fuel pump so that moved to 11 on the X. I was able to sit with both pin out sheets and write each pin and what it converted to so it was easier to swap when it went in. This way it was a turn key upgrade which it would’ve been if I paid attention and didn’t mess up the fuel pump pin lol. 8 goes to 11 not back to 8 haha. 1 for like 100 isn’t bad but there wasn’t much to it really. Everything works no downsides once I started going it became fun but would I do it again? Absolutely the F not! That repinning sucks

Good day everyone, one morning I was on market place and found a VG33ER forsale for a decent price and for a and was a good few hours drive but I picked it up with no prior intention of swapping my pathfinder. The swap is pretty straightforward along as you have all the parts from an ER to swap. It is also 02 Xterra ECU swapped on the original body and engine harness. The pulley is swapped now as of writing to the 4x4parts 2.4 quick change pulley on the stock SCB cut off. It makes a significantly more amount of power than before and is absolutely worth it if you can afford the premium gas. ALTHOUGH, it seems the MPG has been improved since the swap at least at partial throttle which is pretty cool. It's also running factoy R50 airbox with all original sensors. Here's what was swapped Lower intake Injectors Fuel rails (minor differences) Supercharger Spark plugs Spark plug wires Thermostat 180 to 170 AC tensioner only NOT alternator Belts Crank pulley Water and ps pulley NOT alt ECU and plug Pas side valve cover (only for PCV valve) To swap the ECU most of the pins are in the same locations how ever not all. you WILL have to solder a larger pin on the orange IACV wire and to make the SCB safety work you can reuse and replumb the map/baro switch as the SCB and it works the same. All valves, sensors and anything else are original 97 pathfinder. You will have to run different length belts for all 3 now that the V belt is deleted, the crank and water pump are different size and the super charger belt needs to be a 5 rib and shorter unless you swap the AC comp. Cruise even works too! It drives incredible and I could not be more happy with the result. before the pulley it feels like a more peppy VQ but after the pulley it pulls harder than one for sure. When I dump the clutch I'm always first off the line even to the diesel guys that book it off the light (i'm looking at you Dodge owners) and it seems to run cooler than my friends bone stock X since mine has a hole in the hood and gets good cooling. Thanks. Donor engine in back of my r50 On floor after getting it home repinning the ECU plugs Cleaning Radiator shows up Installing charger and intake *borart voice* VERY NICEEE

Getting a strange whining noise whenever I accelerate and also have this weird thing in my hood. Anyone know how to fix this?

I'll take a deeper dive into that when I get to it. as long as the belt is covered BC laws don't care about hole in hood so im fine with that. I should be good I'm gonna reuse one of the OG map/baro switch in the vacuum piping and use it as my SCB valve. It seems to be the same and even part number I think so wiring 49 on the SCB should work like original. 1 other guy that did it to his qx4 but I don't think he swapped ECU and his just piggy back. With my ECU swap im expecting full proper OEM style performance with no downsides compared to my 97. I was thinking of doing a write up on how I did it and what you need to make this happen in an R50 and surprisingly, not as much work needs to be done as you would think. I thought it was impossible but now after more research and having all the parts its gonna be easy I'm hoping to have it done by mid June, granted my cams and radiator show up by then. Cam guy is slow and Ebay seems to also. oh well

Rock auto has reman and some new off brand ones that are decent just don't get the cheapest of cheap sometimes those aren't that great. GB stuff is pretty good from what I've heard never tried it personally though Also, you only need 1 post you don't need to add to multiple sections of the forum

Also, any Ideas on how I can cover the hole I will have to drill in my hood and not make it look stupid? I might try and give my hood the same bump the xterra has but im not sure yet. still got a way to go before I get there though

Well I just got back from pick n pull and have an 02 xterra ecu and the plug. I just cut it out of the vehicle but have enough I can probably just solder to the SCB wire. The charger and everything was already gone out of the car so no SCB valve I also didn't get a whole donor car just the vg33er long block on market place like 300+km away. Shout out GFSS auto shop the kids did great pulling that engine lol. The wiring does seem to be similar it's just the over all plug layout that changed. Based on the ECU pin out sheets on both the 97 and 02 xterra they share the same sensors and the voltages seem to all be the same too so I should have no issues with that. The crank and accessories however.... I think i'm going to see if I can swap my pulleys to be able to run my factory PS, Alt and AC but with the ER pulleys. not sure if it will work yet just an idea but if I had to run the ER accessories oh well. Definitely going to be one of the only people with a boosted Pathfinder, let alone an SC swap. I've only seen old posts of people talking about it but never actually followed through. I have the parts, I just need the time and the rest of the know how! Im also still waiting on the Cam shop to finish my VG30 cams so with those and a charger, it should make some pretty good jam and I'm very excited!

Hello, im planning on doing some pretty custom work to my rig in the next few months - year and am still at the beginning stages of what Im planning. However, what is ECCS? Ive figured out its to do with the ECU and how it controls engine components. but is this some fancy separate thing or is this another case of Nissan trying to be different with their wording? (MAP, nah, Absolute sensor!) Basically i'm swapping ECU and am wondering if I need to run the ECCS wires to something other than the ECU to make my harness work. It looks like a basic 10-14V output but Im not sure what it controls other than a relay labeled self shut off in the service manual. I also need to figure out how im going to run the SCB valve wire, so if I repin my harness just use the now unused ECCS for my SCB? This is a small problem compared to what's ahead but Its what prevents me from having a running engine at the least. Should I A) figure out what it is and make it work or B ) swap harness with the ECU I using and just make it work with the rest of the car. Or Z) just throw an MS3pro and call it a day?

Moms og owner and was bone stock when I got it. and I've hit them with the impact and have had no issues. I meant to get them same length as the studs but they were like 1/4" longer but still worked. Hardware is hardware along as it fits properly, is as strong as or stronger, and can be removed as easier than before. Some other guy was worried about the rear trailing arm bolt and I just said get some metric high sheer bolts and you'll have no issues. just try and get the same size as before or what ever is common in your tool kit lol

im using stainless hex bolts that are way too long compared to original. my OG hardware was actually studs and nuts on the R50. They're the same through all 80-00 Nissan 4x4s from what I can see. my friends Xterra, brothers wd21 and my r50 all share same hub hardware

Just incase anyone needed to know, you CAN fit a fully dressed VG33ER in the back of an R50!

First camping trip of the year back at the end of April. Didn't have the awning room set up yet but love the awning alone. I use the awning room as my tent, a small cot and my diesel heater and it works amazing super cozy setup. It also allows me to get into the side with a zip up fly against the car so no need to get out to get gear. Can't wait for real summer camping! Rigs starting to show its age if you zoom in close enough, just means I gotta spend some time with the ol' girl.

I'm running a 16x8 with a -6 you'll have plenty between the strut and side wall, you will rub the fender liner and the bumper. mine are both cut for that reason. What matters is the clearance between the sidewall and bottom of the strut

its not a chevy 350 so you'll probably be ok. only the intake studs are super close to water jackets

Here's a link to the service manual. Page 196. basically warm, then hold no load 2k rpm for 2 minutes then check timing in N should be about 15 degrees +/- 2

did you time the dizzy warm or cold and with the throttle unplugged?

Top side below the cams, oil usually leaks down the outing backside but if you have an oil drop it could come from inside, and maybe by the tensioner near the thermostat to check the tensioner. but I would for sure put a grommet cover on that one

Don't see why not lots of 300 VG guys don't run the upper cover at all or even on the RB just for show. I don't recommend doing that in the slightest how ever, putting a little hole with a rubber grommet to cover it would be safe. The cover doesn't contain oil like a chain, you can run it with the covers off when reassembling after changing. If you're trying to check the belt or put the dizzy back on then this makes sense but there's not much to look at in there all you can see is if the belt is wet/cracked or not. Timing dots are super small and you shouldn't use that anyways. You should be counting the ribs in-between the cams and the driver cam and the crank when installing and removing. the marks are not accurate I've found. I believe it's 40 and 43 or something like that.

2 years stock cv on 2" lift original cv with manual hubs. won't be a worry for you.

I just got a standard grade 8 metric bolt with a squash nut and its been working fine last 2 years. bolts a bolt doesnt have to be OEM

I just cut a hole in the top of the cap and put a little hose in with come compressed air. hasn't failed me yet