Strato_54

Also, any Ideas on how I can cover the hole I will have to drill in my hood and not make it look stupid? I might try and give my hood the same bump the xterra has but im not sure yet. still got a way to go before I get there though

Well I just got back from pick n pull and have an 02 xterra ecu and the plug. I just cut it out of the vehicle but have enough I can probably just solder to the SCB wire. The charger and everything was already gone out of the car so no SCB valve I also didn't get a whole donor car just the vg33er long block on market place like 300+km away. Shout out GFSS auto shop the kids did great pulling that engine lol. The wiring does seem to be similar it's just the over all plug layout that changed. Based on the ECU pin out sheets on both the 97 and 02 xterra they share the same sensors and the voltages seem to all be the same too so I should have no issues with that. The crank and accessories however.... I think i'm going to see if I can swap my pulleys to be able to run my factory PS, Alt and AC but with the ER pulleys. not sure if it will work yet just an idea but if I had to run the ER accessories oh well. Definitely going to be one of the only people with a boosted Pathfinder, let alone an SC swap. I've only seen old posts of people talking about it but never actually followed through. I have the parts, I just need the time and the rest of the know how! Im also still waiting on the Cam shop to finish my VG30 cams so with those and a charger, it should make some pretty good jam and I'm very excited!

Hello, im planning on doing some pretty custom work to my rig in the next few months - year and am still at the beginning stages of what Im planning. However, what is ECCS? Ive figured out its to do with the ECU and how it controls engine components. but is this some fancy separate thing or is this another case of Nissan trying to be different with their wording? (MAP, nah, Absolute sensor!) Basically i'm swapping ECU and am wondering if I need to run the ECCS wires to something other than the ECU to make my harness work. It looks like a basic 10-14V output but Im not sure what it controls other than a relay labeled self shut off in the service manual. I also need to figure out how im going to run the SCB valve wire, so if I repin my harness just use the now unused ECCS for my SCB? This is a small problem compared to what's ahead but Its what prevents me from having a running engine at the least. Should I A) figure out what it is and make it work or B ) swap harness with the ECU I using and just make it work with the rest of the car. Or Z) just throw an MS3pro and call it a day?

Moms og owner and was bone stock when I got it. and I've hit them with the impact and have had no issues. I meant to get them same length as the studs but they were like 1/4" longer but still worked. Hardware is hardware along as it fits properly, is as strong as or stronger, and can be removed as easier than before. Some other guy was worried about the rear trailing arm bolt and I just said get some metric high sheer bolts and you'll have no issues. just try and get the same size as before or what ever is common in your tool kit lol

im using stainless hex bolts that are way too long compared to original. my OG hardware was actually studs and nuts on the R50. They're the same through all 80-00 Nissan 4x4s from what I can see. my friends Xterra, brothers wd21 and my r50 all share same hub hardware

Just incase anyone needed to know, you CAN fit a fully dressed VG33ER in the back of an R50!

First camping trip of the year back at the end of April. Didn't have the awning room set up yet but love the awning alone. I use the awning room as my tent, a small cot and my diesel heater and it works amazing super cozy setup. It also allows me to get into the side with a zip up fly against the car so no need to get out to get gear. Can't wait for real summer camping! Rigs starting to show its age if you zoom in close enough, just means I gotta spend some time with the ol' girl.

I'm running a 16x8 with a -6 you'll have plenty between the strut and side wall, you will rub the fender liner and the bumper. mine are both cut for that reason. What matters is the clearance between the sidewall and bottom of the strut

its not a chevy 350 so you'll probably be ok. only the intake studs are super close to water jackets

Here's a link to the service manual. Page 196. basically warm, then hold no load 2k rpm for 2 minutes then check timing in N should be about 15 degrees +/- 2

did you time the dizzy warm or cold and with the throttle unplugged?

Top side below the cams, oil usually leaks down the outing backside but if you have an oil drop it could come from inside, and maybe by the tensioner near the thermostat to check the tensioner. but I would for sure put a grommet cover on that one

Don't see why not lots of 300 VG guys don't run the upper cover at all or even on the RB just for show. I don't recommend doing that in the slightest how ever, putting a little hole with a rubber grommet to cover it would be safe. The cover doesn't contain oil like a chain, you can run it with the covers off when reassembling after changing. If you're trying to check the belt or put the dizzy back on then this makes sense but there's not much to look at in there all you can see is if the belt is wet/cracked or not. Timing dots are super small and you shouldn't use that anyways. You should be counting the ribs in-between the cams and the driver cam and the crank when installing and removing. the marks are not accurate I've found. I believe it's 40 and 43 or something like that.

2 years stock cv on 2" lift original cv with manual hubs. won't be a worry for you.

I just got a standard grade 8 metric bolt with a squash nut and its been working fine last 2 years. bolts a bolt doesnt have to be OEM

I just cut a hole in the top of the cap and put a little hose in with come compressed air. hasn't failed me yet

Also yeah for low oil pressure they run great. Cold it maintains fine, but warm at idle its 10 PSI 2000RPM is 40+~ and 3000RPM+ is usually closer to 60 but still not quite. Nissan spec is 10 idle, 60 at 2k. this to is also why I want to do the upgrade to see what's going on in there for my oil pressure to be so low. It's been like this since my original post about oil pressure and I've done unthinkable things to this engine and it's still going. not on purpose mind you lol. I think a VG is harder to kill than a K series

Wow, noted. Im on the hunt for the cams now I haven't had any luck looking at my local pick n pull but I've also been thinking about this for only a week so. From what I've seen I think I'll tear it apart as soon as I get the cams. What should I upgrade with then or just get a set of OEM lifters from somewhere? I'm not much of an engine builder so brands I'm unsure of what to go with and what's available I've gained enough spare parts and have torn my engine apart enough in the last 2 years it shouldn't need any "while I'm in there" other than the lifters I was asking in the first place. When I get into it I think I'll make a separate thread talking about my process and how it affected my rig. After doing the 4.6 swap and my super pack, I want it fast!

Oh wow! ok, so if any of mine look like that or worse then MAYBE consider replacing. got it. When I'm in there I'll inspect them and decide. WD21 are getting rarer so I'm trying to buy up the parts I want even if I don't put them in right away

Afternoon all, looking to do the WD21 cam swap. How ever, on start up and occasionally around 2-3k rpm cruising I can hear an audible rattle/knock from the engine bay. I do have lower than typically normal oil pressure when warm so I’m guessing one of my lifters are not too happy knowing they’re junk factory anyways. Running 10w 30 and still seems to be there. Oil pressure is normal idle but 2k 40+ when it should be closer to 60 with that said, if I’m taking the work to swap the cams should I do new lifters while I’m there? There’s no issues other than a slight noise. If they’re fine just leave it is my thing but what’s everyone else’s take? Thanks.

So far I’ve only had luck with the control arms being poly. My rack hasn’t died yet but I’ve changed them 2 times before already

I still see no mention of checking the timing. If the dizzy is out, it's not gonna run right. Adam was on the right path (ha) when he mentioned it but OP I don't think you've checked that yet.

I’ll add to that. Bee running rear disc on my 97 for almost a year and they’re absolutely amazing

After more diagnosis and reading, I found that I should check for continuity through that little circular piece and it / ignition coil is the issue. Basically new coil and I’m good to go!

So I just checked that little resistor / capacitor thing on the side of the dizzy and there’s. No resistance. Bingo!?