Strato_54

I believe this to be forum page Slart was referencing though. https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/distributor-rebuild-on-the-cheap-for-1st-gen-nissan-frontier-xterra.350719/

link doesnt work

Hood, the front that meets the grille is a different shape. Edit: It's pretty much every thing from the bottom of the windshield and front of the door, forward.

My brother is running the Grabbers on his WD21 and they feel pretty good. No issues in the snow, and seems to be a pretty good road tire. He doesn't take it off roading much but I'd say its a solid tire. My dad and I are KO and KO2 fanboys so i'm always gonna say those. My factory size was a 235/70/15 and when my parents still owned it put a 235/75/15 BFG KO. That tire size isnt the same anymore now that i'm driving it, but the KO2 I have now are a dream everywhere except my wallet...

The rear drum brakes do rub ever so slightly, but I'll only ever hear it if i'm sticking my head out the window and really trying to listen. You'll always have slight shoe/pad rub and it will make a faint scrubbing noise that you otherwise should not hear INSIDE while driving. If you have an LSD in your pathy then that would help explain for the wheel hop/kicking when turning full lock. LSD's can cause wheel slip if they're too tight or the conditions are just right, but even on my open diff pathy I've felt this before. If you have no vertical, horizontal play or binding in your bearings theres a good chance theyre probably good. Paranoia can lead you to thinking the worst but at the end of the day its all mechanics, and even my elbow at 20 makes some grinding sometimes lol My theory behind this is the wider stance gives it more "leverage" to keep the wheel down and planted on the ground. But since doing the lift I've realized the AC 2" coils are stiff af. With having less front corner dive around corners it wants to keep that weight over that opposite wheel, my pathy feels like a race car around some corners even with the lift. I'm also not as wide as most R50 though only running a -6 offset no spacer.

I'm going to say this is normal because my parents are the original owners of my 97, and when I started driving it my dad always warned me about taking corners too fast for that reason. Since getting some Offset wheels and the lift there is no more of this wheel hop at all. My dad would say it was always on the right hand turns it would hop the most for him.

My 97 had it, 1 full crack and it never let go. I ended up removing it in favour of electric fans. That looks better than what I had, but still wouldn't put my full trust into it.

I didn't even think of those! Just getting a compressor would be a lot cheaper than the full kit, and my fabrication skills do the rest. I would just run the air fitting to a welded plate on my bumper, or on a bracket some where tucked under for easy access. Not sure if I would run a fitting to my engine bay too, but that could be easy.

I've been planning out the last few weeks, days even an on board air system. Lots of systems/kits use that spare tire hoist as a mounting point anyways. I don't have a spare under there, nor a tire carrier so I have lots of room for activites! I was looking at the Viair Quarter Duty kit on amazon. Still have to meassure and make sure everything will fit properly for that kit, but it should at only a 1.5 gallon tank. A drop down tool box is a sweet idea! Even just bolting two metal tool boxes onto a frame then droping it from the chain hoist would be great. The fuel tank on the WD21 was in that same spot, so that could be feasable.

I got a video of what it did on my way to the beach. This is just 2nd gear, doesn’t matter what gear I’m in

It would make sense if it sends the info to speedo then the computer because when I tried playing with the cluster screws it feels like its fixed but comes back few days later. I've had this dash apart more times than I would like to admit. Yes it is a manual, and it does start to act up when it doesn't see a speed signal. The response feels weird and it will let out massive pops and a few flames through the exhaust, more than it normally does on decel (lol). I dont think its mechanical, because it will jump up, down repeatedly sometimes instead of staying on. So for that maybe the current is enough push to get passed any corrosion once its at a higher signal? I've had it throw a code only 1 time but never again after that, only goes to pending. I've tried playing with a few things, ut haven't gotten to a complete fix. Everything I touch fixes it for a few days or weeks then it comes back. I have not taken out the speed sensor yet though to check the gear, but that will be my next thing. It never used to turn off below that speed all the time, so thats why I never was pushed to check the gear.

For the longest time now I've been fighting an issue where below 30-40kmph my speedo will sometimes just stop working. I'll start my car in the morning, start driving with no working speedo to get out to the main road, once I get to mid 3rd it will wake up. Sometimes it will just fall once I go below 50 but usually it will stay working. It definetly is not bump related as its consistant with stopping in that speed range. If i'm below that speed range it will just start bouncing or fall. Sometimes I get a pending p0500 but never a full code.

I definitely need to fix the faded bumpers now. Gonna be a fun winter

Are the 2003 rotors and calipers a direct bolt up? Granted you have the wheel sizing for it? Looking on rock auto that looks like the case in the info pages for each year. I am looking to upgrade, the bigger tires are deffinetly heavier edit: read it again and saw it fits right in. I do plan on doing this soon my rotors are real bad

Clean looking rig! When I was configuring my lift and looking at the different options, and what to look for when buying my stuff I watched @PathyDude17 videos on R50 suspension and helped a lot with figuring out what I wanted to go for

If you want to flush out that oil, even just a splash of fresh oil down the fill tube will be enough to flush out the remaining oil.

I went with the BOSCH cap on rock auto. Its a brand I know, and so far has been working fine. Same quality I would say as the cap that came off it or better. I think I saw a bosch brand distro when I talked to my local parts guy about other caps. Didn't have the cap in stock.

Can confirm my 97 Steelies were a 15". Now i have a 16 with an unknown offset, with only fender liner rub.

Maybe he installed an ECU cut. I've thought of going that far, but not really sure how worth it that really is. I have a manual and never thought of the starter because of that. Fuel pump is a better option, but thats a pretty common one, someone might figure it out pretty quick. If all the windows and blower motor still function but theres no dash activity, that's where I would think he cut into.

For a few monthes i did door dash. I was delivering to an apartment building and there were no open spots except a handicap spot, which I obviously didn't park in. I parked next to the sidewalk, had my hazards on and all. I walked to the back door to grab the food, and as I'm standing there a Dodge mini van backed into the door as it was fully wide open and i was standing there. T-Bone scenario, but the door acted like a knife. The only damage to my pathy is a little paint chip on the side, and a the door being slightly off. But you really REALLY have to be looking for it. Totaled her car though lol. After that I swear the keys will have to be pulled from my cold dead fingers. You should put some rally stripes on after that one though!

That sounds pretty metallic. I don't think that would be coming from the manifold. The sound has a really solid ring to it, manifold leaks don't have that type of ring. How does your oil filter look? edit: it seems louder on the driver side, maybe its head related?

Good instrustions. I completely negleted the fact it says it should be tightened on the ground, in the FSM when I did mine a few days ago. Looks like I'm retorquing those my next days off. Thanks for your awesome input as always. On the strut tower thing, I could actually hear chassis groaning from that corner going over uneven surfaces. If you hear that noise from that direction, get it patched ASAP

I'm a huge Efan fan. I've been running them for almost a year with really great success. I have put out info on how mine have performed so far, but 100% they won't move as much air a mechanical fan will. You either need a lot of fans, or really good ones. I have the 5spd, so the change was very much noticeable to me, especially when i was still on my stock small wheel setup.

I was mostly after the throttle response. I have the 5spd and shifting felt way too slow. Dropping the fan woke it right up, shifting and throttle blips are super fast. 5th doesn't feel nearly as held back on the highway, and it brought my throttle usage down from 7-10% to about 4-6 doing 60KM (blue driver results). My overall milage has been crushed due to a growing vacuum leak which isn't really helping me estimate that, but it has been a lot more consitant with Efans. edit: The side benefit is being able to swap all my belts in about 5 minutes, and my whole fan/shroud setup can be removed with the rad as one unit.

Wonder who's oddly familiar R50 that is in the back?