Strato_54

the vibration could be a wheel bearing like said above. had that on my armada and it turned into a squeak after a while when turning. if all fuses are fine and all wires appear to be fine then it would lead to the hazard button itself. when its not plugged in none of them work no clicking no flashing no anything. pull off the trim panel and make sure that it is fully plugged in and the button is functional. i figured that part out when i did a dash light conversion and tried the signals and it didnt work until the trim was plugged in. gave me a heart attack for a minute thinking i fried my dash but in the end just being that massive plug

the burn out sounds like it went A-OK and good job on that one. i would say thermostat also. in my head thats the only thing that would do something like that or water pump not circulating

Well if you did a swap it could’ve been all the air coming out of the lines. My 6.0 did it after I did the HG. the oil rails for the injectors were filled with air and it ran terrible and then it popped a few times then ran great. Glad to hear you got it figured lol

well theres lots of people on this forum that can help you out, and there is quite a bit of info in here that you will just have to look around for. these are unibody not body on frame which means body lift is a no go.. you can do a sub frame drop, but that to my knowledge doesn't provide any lift. as for parts there are a few different combinations and options you can go with. i suggest checking out this video created by a user here in this forum. in the video it explains the different options for lifts and can help you decide what exactly you're looking for. welcome to the forum!

So ive taken an interest in the vg30 cam swap into the vg33 and want to know what the actual numbers look like in terms of performance, what the benefit is besides having a taller lobe and an what can be expected when the cams are swapped. i read somewhere that the 33E cams were made for torque so that got me thinking, does the 30E cams bring those numbers down or bring them up since they the specs appear the same. and if anyone has any tips on cam swaps with any cams that would be great too. ex, euro cams from 4x4 parts, Schneider cams and so on so forth.

not sure what you mean for right timing position and gates, continental are pretty decent all around belt brands. ive seen aisin floating around a lot so they also seem to be alright. if youre talking about where the timing has to be there should be marks on the crank and cam shaft sprockets and on the heads and block pointing to where they should be lined up.

when i was learning stick in this car actually i never got the knock it was either stall or jump. this is the first time ive gotten the knock which was actually learning hwo to slip the clutch up hill. ive always liked the 300zx and even the 240 they seem like theyre kinda fun to play with

some people still chooses to go out and party and others choose to throw a ball in the air and catch it in their house. but going out to a shop that you and only you goto during this time is great choice to keep buys but also stay safe from the public where you have the chance of getting sick. im doing the same thing im doing a rad swap, fan swap, filters, timing belt, seals and all this coming week or so. opening spotify and wrenching stuff is going to be what saves me from boredom this coming weeks. and i suggest heating the area first with an electric heat gun or something along those lines. every time ive ever heated my area and then painted helped a lot with it curing to the primer and the primer to the object.

ok so then user error got it. didnt sound very nice but it still runs fine. had a feeling that was what it was but wasnt sure what i was hearing for those few seconds. it wouldnt have done much hurt as it knocked 2 times stalled and i did it again same thing 2 knock then stall. not under intense load but had enough. should be fine then thanks for clearing my nerves

i would take a few interior pieces like dash trim. and i would also take switches like for the windows and the locks. turn signal lever and wiper lever. sell the steering wheel on ebay for a few bucks. i personally would keep the things that i would expect to break over time or on accident or just things i know i would need to replace or would like to have an extra of for later but enough to fit in a bigger plastic bin or 2

alright makes me feel a little better about not having something more catastrophic. the thing still runs great and drives great so i guess it was just one of those small things

Probably a stupid question but I’m at my shop and was giving the transfer case a work out in the snow but I let it dip to low RPM in 4H and letting out the clutch and right before I stalled it there was a knocking and once it started again it sounded fine. Is this just because of low rpm and under lots of load or something else? I did it twice and each time after it sounds fine. I also have a bad knock sensor bank one so that could also be it

My tool kit does indeed come with these spark plug pullers or what ever you would call them there are 2 of them in the kit

i was meaning stick it in a window in the house if available or something not so much inside of the car itself. with him mentioning it being an apartment may not be so easy to do.

i bought mine on amazon and the options were blue white red and orange. i went with blue because that wwas my first choice but i ordered the wrong ones. the smaller idiot lights are 74. so far im really into it but maybe orange wouldn't be so bad. the ones i got were auxito 194

you might want to get some cameras or park your car in the garage or down the street from now on. if they're dumb enough to do it twice they'll do it a third

theres gotta be one around somewhere that you can steal a door off of

i feel that exact pain they did it to mine when i was younger in a pool parking lot but they actually got in and the sheet metal is way more pushed back and open then yours you can stick a finger between the cylinder and the panel. and seeing youre in LA theres probably a few JY that are near you that have this colour and panel. you can get replacement cylinders from nissan. what im going to do since mine is driver side is pull the lift gate cylinder and use that so my ignition key still works in the door and the rogue key goes to the back door since that key is an odd one out and only for 1 door.

LED dash lights a success. Only thing is the HVAC I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to take that apart

no no i get that part but theyre still stupid expensive even for the auto trans rad at my nissan dealer.

i guess but they still didnt make any for my model i guess but oh well who knows what will happen. i dont need it until it gets road ready. it still holds coolant the filler neck is just really wonky and doesnt hold pressure. its not the cap its hard to explain but im better off with a new rad then this one because of this issue

well since it being canada everything is stupid expensive but they keys i would imagine are a few bucks and if not then screw that ill just weld them on lmao i called nissan about a new radiator and they want over 800 for an oem one and they dont have any others that fit the car because its a manual so no trans lines. absolutely absurd. the timing belt stuff from them wasnt that cheap either so thats why rock auto is going to save me i think

Yeah I’ve never used rock auto but they look really good. But it’s about 500 CAD for everything I need and want which is pretty alright. And if I’m changing keys then that’s a dealer thing I couldn’t find any online

Oh yeah I forgot to list that I got it thanks

Ok so heres my shopping list. lower hose for pipe to rad and engine to pipe upper hose, spectra rad since i screwed mine, gates thermostat 2 beck/arnly front cam seals 1 front fel pro crank seal and GATES TCKWP249 water pump belt and tensioner. that is my current list of new shiny things from rock auto because my auto parts store is way expensive