Strato_54

Alright. I have a few smaller switches that could fit into the blanks with a Dremel and glue but I was hoping to use a switch like that mainly because if the back lighting lmao

Light bar switches, rear aux light switches and what not. Got any pictures?

yeah i guess. What switch would you suggest? or just buying a small one and cutting out the cover for my own to fit into?

Quick and short question. How big are the switch blanks. I want to know for when im buying switches and just to make sure that im getting the right measurements when im cutting mine out for my own switches. But even better, would this switch here fit in side of the in dash switch spots? Unable to go to my shop for a few days where my car is stored so i cant take my own measurements. Thanks EDIT: switch linked above size listed as 5.1 x 2.5 x 4.1 cm

i have never heard of the alternator being triggered by the dash cluster in my entire life. I would just take a multi meter to the pins and find what is what if i were doing it

Alright cool thanks man. Im probably gonna put wider tires on my car when i need new tires and i burn through these ones

since this is a topic that i am also curious about imma take this over for a little bit lmao. I have the stock chrome 15" wheels with BFG KO 235/75's and i was wondering if a pair of 265/70s would fit on these wheels and on the stock ride height of my pathy?

Nissan never made a factory light bar but did make fog lights for the front bumper. There are lots of good choices on amazon and even more expensive reputable brands all over the place that are not hard to wire hard on your wallet.

Best bet would be a JY and maybe online like ebay or another site like that

not to sure about the antenna but as for the reverse, i dont think there is a signal under the dash that can turn on the camera. you might have to run a wire back to the reverse light itself

im pretty sure you can just spin the shock bolt holes on the shocks themselves. Shocks arent in a fixed orientation or mount pattern or what ever you would call it

yeah no problem hope my opinion helped a little. the 2001 is a little too modern for me with my 1997 so thats the first ive heard of something like this honestly

Well im not sure what youre asking really. if youre asking about getting a key like you sent cut, then i think any place can get that done that offers key cutting. as for the remote, if it is the stock unlock remote then it is very easy to reprogram to work with your doors and what not. Here is a tutorial on programming a key

coming back to this for a quick question for anyone, preferably someone that can say this with confidence. I ran 16 gauge wire for my 12 volt wire thats supposed to charge the battery, should I have ran a 14 gauge or even a 12 gauge wire for that or should what i have be fine?

I have found the fix (i think havent tested it much) to my issue. There were a multitude of issues and all of which were involving the rad cap and rad seal. The lower seal for the lower rubber piece was not smooth so making a thick layer of JB weld and sanding it down to a smooth layer helped, but did not solve the issue right away. The second issue was the lip that seals to the upper rubber seal for the cap itself was not very smooth, so taking a piece of sand paper on the face of a block to make it flat and smooth helped even more. the final part involves the cap itself where the 2 teeth that hold the cap on to the rad are too low. so taking a pair of pliers and pressing them in more and more in slight increments helped, but if you go too far you can screw up the teeth that hold it on and it will not turn on to the cap. After making it so the cap would hold on to the rad better, that appears to have solved my issue. Now i just have to test and make sure that is the case.

you would need a glass seal cutter (theres a special word i dont rememebr it) and then remounting the glass can be tricky, if you manage to to it yourself be careful around the paint because thats how the paint around the windshields rust because some places arent so careful

im too young to get that one lmao. i mean i know what it is because of my oma but im too young to make that connection

thats actually really clean i like that. all i have to do now is figure out where i want to mount what i want. i was thinking of making my own on screen gauges and stuff just because that would make thing easy for me

i would imagine there is a fuse for it and as for turning it off i think it turns off when you start the vehicle. ive seen some cars that turn off when started with the key. and i would also imagine you could buy a remote and program it to your car. dont quote me on this but from what ive seen all pathfinders have the little box that controls the car with the remote so you just need to buy the remote. this is where you can buy one if you want to give it a try

i found that thread last night and made a list off all the colours and what ever else i need for the conversion. i also used the sylvania light guide thing for everything else exterior because i guess led head light bulbs are not meant for direct replacement because of the reflection tile stuff in the light and im too lazy and broke to buy new casings. when ever i decide i want to do this ill buy all the leds and lights i want and once i finish ill probably post pictures somewhere on the forum for anyone else that wants to do it but doesnt know what it looks like

most of the leds im finding are listed as 80w bulbs but the stock ones are 65w? is this a big jump or is this just kinda what ever? is this an issue at all or would i be fine just replacing all these bulbs even if they're apparently a higher current draw? i wanted to switch to leds because theyre brighter but they are also supposed to be less power hungry. if im just over thinking this then let me know or should i try and find bulbs that are the same draw as the stock halogen ones. i know light is labeled in lumens and not watts but i also know that high lumens is a high wattage.

Has anyone changed the bulbs behind their gauge cluster and or the heating control? im curious if its worth it to take apart the cluster and replace all the dash back light bulbs to leds? And if so how does it look with the different settings on the dimmer dial?

UPDATE: So apparently me making my own ground for my deck fixed that plug somehow as i now get 12 volts and it reads 14.2 or so when its running. so that little plug thing is actually really cool now and i kinda want it. dont really feel like buying it right now but i definitely will soon

i know that sounds odd that only the ground wire gives me the 5 volts but thats what was happened. with my volt meter positive to positive and ground to ground and that was giving me 5 volts. but when i take my ground lead and stick it to somewhere else metal it gave me my 12 volts. the rear power plug is fine though. from what i can remember thats what was happening last timei checked. when i installed my trailer lights and i was running my brake controller wire to under the dash i pulled off one of the plastics under the hood release and that ground going into the body looked like it had seen some better days. not sure what that one is for but i had cleaned it off any way. all other connections are fine and for a few days i had basically the entire interior pulled apart and didnt notice anything that could be faulty, except for misaligned pieces from factory. if i go up to my shop today i will try and diagnose it a little bit more.

yeah thats exactly what i want. battery when its not running and when it is running. and yeah i turned my key to ON and stuck a volt meter inside of the plug and only got 5 volts from it. but then like a month later when i ripped out my old deck and was installed the new harness it wouldn't turn on because that also only gave my 5 volts because of the ground wire. thats why i had to make a new ground for my deck because the factory one was too weak for some reason. everything works no problem and the plug does work sorta but from what i can remember it wasn't up to 12 volts. I like to forget to turn stuff off and i like using things when its not running so being able to monitor that would be nice and plus i want to gear my setup towards camping where i can check if ill be good for a while. but also too for the winter so i know right away if my battery is frozen or not.