Strato_54

from my basic knowledge it reads the same thing as the obd2 but not as much info and nissan uses it for dealer scanning from what i know of. from what i know it does the same thing

if everything is in Japanese then maybe lol

Washington area is closer to me as i dont have the time or money to go much farther. All the mountains are similar to my province which i know my pathy can handle. And if camping was an option theres lots of spots in the trees for me and my little trailer.

Here in Canada it was standard for all vehicles made after 95 to have them so theres a chance your model didn't have to have that standard. Maybe i'm wrong but there should be one there. Its normally a white plug next to the hood release.

ok well its good to know that it does have some more advanced things that can be read. and i wasnt meaning oil and coolant temps persay just as an example as i know more modern vehicles have those built in.

from my understanding there are 2 ports on the pathfinder of this year. theres the obd2 and higher up is the consult port from what i can remember

Since my 97 SE has an obd2 reader, i am curious as to what can be read from it. Some vehicles to my knowledge only show things such as engine codes and small things like that, while others can show stuff like water temp oil temp rpm and such with a more advanced scan tool. In my pathfinder, I want to make it more functional towards camping with my trailer and road tripping so I am wanting to put together a little tool i can use to read stuff about my car. My question is if i plug in an obd2 reader, what can i view from the computer other then the basics such as engine codes.

I personally would say that is alright. Judging that all the materials are rated for such of course. My bumper my dad and I built a few years back has the 2 inch receiver slot that we used for a hitch to drag out our travel trailer from out ally. (Wouldn't recommend that as it destroys the clutch if you drive a manual.) I'm actually going to build a new rear bumper with a trailer hitch mount that is meant for towing, and i'm also going to build a winch basket that can be mounted to the front receiver or my rear. You can buy these pre-made and ready to go, but most of the time you need to buy the winch separately from what I've seen. I would say yes because if you wire it up correctly you can have a quick disconnect, and you just pull the receiver pin and pull off the winch when you do not need it. Driving to the store in the summer in the city with an easy to remove winch isn't a bad thing if you have that option.

oh crap youre right. oops

Well it doesn’t get that hot at all, my top rad hose only sits at about 60-70C but would probably be colder with pressure when I resolve this issue

Don't have anything new really to show other then this cold start i got today, and also this front plate mount I had to make. Cold start The muffler I have on right now is a Cherrybomb Turbo, dumping out right before the rear axle as we got lazy and didn't want to finish it to the tailpipe. I'm thinking about doing a straight pipe once it passes inspection but who knows, I might keep it as is. Plate mount The plate mount is made out of basic angle aluminum i had lying around the shop. Just drilled some holes and welded it together with a polish. It looks good in the silver colour it has mounted so chances are I wont be painting it, and ill probably make a new one for my rear plate mount.

UPDATE: I think I have found the culprit to my pressurizing issues. Not 100% sure yet but will try again tomorrow and have a final answer for this thread. Heres what has been happening (taken today after running for about a half hour or more) This is a visual of the issue. What I believe the issue is: Today I grabbed a new radiator pressure cap as i had thought my old one was done... This was sadly not the case. The old pressure cap was perfectly fine but it wasn't an issue with the cap itself. It was an issue with the cap not sealing. In the radiator where the smaller seal makes contact with the brim of the radiator just before the overflow tube, there was a little bit of plastic scratched away which in turn made the bottom ring not seal. To also make it worse, it was all gunked up with old coolant dirt. After scratching it away and making the surface a little more smooth for the seal, it finally made the upper rad tube stiffer to squeeze. From what i can tell. This might just be my head thinking it is or my fingers burning on coolant lines, but i think i may be on to something. This is definitely something i've never seen or heard of, and i thought i would share this experience with you guys. Ill edit this thread tomorrow with the final verdict.

yeah probably. and im not sure what its call honestly, im a bullet proof 6.0 and 7.3 guy so i couldnt tell you. i like the 6.7 but that exhaust crap is just annoying lol

im probably going to go down and look for one if i get the chance to. i dont know if this 3.0 has that anti smoke stuff on it because its such low power. but knowing ford and EPA or what ever it probably does. And if you just did a direct transfer of the exhaust sensors it should be fine i think. Might have to try it out here in the next year or 2

granted if its a diesel people dont know how to take care of powerstrokes. but the rest are pretty much trash anyways lol

I know what you're thinking, yes this is a Nissan pathfinder forum and I'm talking a bout a powerstroke. But just wait. I'm a ford guy and always have been. I love the powerstrokes and know more about them then most people should. But just today i found out they didnt only have the 6.7L. They also make a 3.0 v6 for the F-150. Now the first thing i thought was holy crap how did i not know about this. then the next thing i thought was..... Would it fit in the R50 engine bay. From what i can see its not an enormous engine but its still out of an f150. I wanted to know if anyone knows anything on this engine and its size and if i could Frankenstein a pathy.

Heres my baby. Gave her a good cleaning today. Vacuumed out the floors front and back. Sat in the rain for 2 days not being touched so it got some dust water spots so might as well grab the hose. Ignore the front wires the lights arent working. Im mounting a 25inch bar in place of them. https://imgur.com/a/LyYj52O

upload to imgur and add the link of the picture to your post

Weather the thing runs or not its still a pathfinder. Welcome to the forum.

i just realized from my last reply that i dont give a fskc if it leaves me stranded in the middle of nowhere as long as the engine is ok thats what i care about wow lol

if it leaves me stranded what ever its not hard to call my dad and get a trailer. and as long as the chances of the engine doing serious damage if the belt snaps is pretty low then im happy. i dont really have the time or energy right now to replace it and i just wanna see if i will be able to let it go for a little bit longer.

so if i had the original belt on it, even just inspecting and if i can see its still in good shape (again this engine has next to no heavy use other then commuting around at this point) i can just leave it alone. but only if then but if its in noticeably bad shape i would obviously change it. This kinda what youre saying? some people say change them every 7 or so years and the manual says about 160k i believe so theres different opinions. if its in good shape would you say just leave it even if its the factory one?

I'm not the best at working on engines and mechanics yet as i am still learning (15 almost 16) but i do know for a fact the the VG33E is an interference engine and that if the timing belt breaks on these types of engines it could do some serious damage. If my timing belt snaps on this engine, what are the possible things that could result coming from that happening. I saw somewhere that some pistons have grooves in the heads deep enough so that if it does break that even if the valve was open it wont do any damage and all you would have to do is replace the timing best. Is this the case and should i worry changing the belt right now. I do believe it is the same belt from factory (97) with only 90k on it. If i let it break is there a good chance it wont break anything serious or do i have to change it now.

the idle bump i get when dumping the gas and letting off has been there for years, even when my family used it normally as a daily so its not a new thing. and there hasnt been any leaks since i filled the rad with water then did a flush for normal coolant. all it does now is not pressurize and from what i see it doesnt over heat anymore and that the water does circulate. then again i wouldnt know what that car looks like over heating except for the one day where it wouldnt even move a foot on its own while running (it sounds very bad i know but at that moment we werent at our shop and we were getting it there. we thought it was a fuel error) it probably is the rad cap

Alright I’ll try that later