Strato_54

im too young to get that one lmao. i mean i know what it is because of my oma but im too young to make that connection

thats actually really clean i like that. all i have to do now is figure out where i want to mount what i want. i was thinking of making my own on screen gauges and stuff just because that would make thing easy for me

i would imagine there is a fuse for it and as for turning it off i think it turns off when you start the vehicle. ive seen some cars that turn off when started with the key. and i would also imagine you could buy a remote and program it to your car. dont quote me on this but from what ive seen all pathfinders have the little box that controls the car with the remote so you just need to buy the remote. this is where you can buy one if you want to give it a try

i found that thread last night and made a list off all the colours and what ever else i need for the conversion. i also used the sylvania light guide thing for everything else exterior because i guess led head light bulbs are not meant for direct replacement because of the reflection tile stuff in the light and im too lazy and broke to buy new casings. when ever i decide i want to do this ill buy all the leds and lights i want and once i finish ill probably post pictures somewhere on the forum for anyone else that wants to do it but doesnt know what it looks like

most of the leds im finding are listed as 80w bulbs but the stock ones are 65w? is this a big jump or is this just kinda what ever? is this an issue at all or would i be fine just replacing all these bulbs even if they're apparently a higher current draw? i wanted to switch to leds because theyre brighter but they are also supposed to be less power hungry. if im just over thinking this then let me know or should i try and find bulbs that are the same draw as the stock halogen ones. i know light is labeled in lumens and not watts but i also know that high lumens is a high wattage.

Has anyone changed the bulbs behind their gauge cluster and or the heating control? im curious if its worth it to take apart the cluster and replace all the dash back light bulbs to leds? And if so how does it look with the different settings on the dimmer dial?

UPDATE: So apparently me making my own ground for my deck fixed that plug somehow as i now get 12 volts and it reads 14.2 or so when its running. so that little plug thing is actually really cool now and i kinda want it. dont really feel like buying it right now but i definitely will soon

i know that sounds odd that only the ground wire gives me the 5 volts but thats what was happened. with my volt meter positive to positive and ground to ground and that was giving me 5 volts. but when i take my ground lead and stick it to somewhere else metal it gave me my 12 volts. the rear power plug is fine though. from what i can remember thats what was happening last timei checked. when i installed my trailer lights and i was running my brake controller wire to under the dash i pulled off one of the plastics under the hood release and that ground going into the body looked like it had seen some better days. not sure what that one is for but i had cleaned it off any way. all other connections are fine and for a few days i had basically the entire interior pulled apart and didnt notice anything that could be faulty, except for misaligned pieces from factory. if i go up to my shop today i will try and diagnose it a little bit more.

yeah thats exactly what i want. battery when its not running and when it is running. and yeah i turned my key to ON and stuck a volt meter inside of the plug and only got 5 volts from it. but then like a month later when i ripped out my old deck and was installed the new harness it wouldn't turn on because that also only gave my 5 volts because of the ground wire. thats why i had to make a new ground for my deck because the factory one was too weak for some reason. everything works no problem and the plug does work sorta but from what i can remember it wasn't up to 12 volts. I like to forget to turn stuff off and i like using things when its not running so being able to monitor that would be nice and plus i want to gear my setup towards camping where i can check if ill be good for a while. but also too for the winter so i know right away if my battery is frozen or not.

im hoping it was that ground issue and me doing what i did fixed it but who knows. i thought i would've had to hard wire it because of that issue. ive seen those usb plug things around but assumed it wouldn't work and when i was flipping through the manual it mentions to not use it as a power plug. i wasn't looking specifically for that but just noticed that and shrugged it off as an oh well and went on. if i can get that plug fixed or check it then ill probably go for one of those

the issue with that though is somewhere i think i screwed up wiring so i only get 5 volts from that plug. same thing happened to my stereo when i installed it. i was only getting 4-5 volts from my ground wire so when i did my unit install i had to make a new ground. it might be fixed now becasue every ground wire back there i just stuck together and then drilled a hole and screwed it in to make it work. next time im at my shop and have my volt meter with me ill check on that but for right now a physical hard line gauge is at the top of my list but that plug is in there in case.

I want to install a battery voltage gauge that can read my battery charge when its not running and when it is. I have found. i dont want to have it on a switch, only on the ignition if possible. With that said what type of gauge would I want. There's cheap gauges like this or more expensive high end gauges like these. for some reason i feel like that cheap amazon one will blow something up some how and the more expensive one just looks cooler but no clue where to put it either. what would be the best spot to tap into wiring, or would i be better off going right from the battery on to a switch.

gotta love those alberta mountians. thats a really nice spot. near banff?

yeah i think he means the ones that go up and along the back seats because its one piece

my buddy has an is300 and he had some throttle response issues (not very relevant here) but after he cleaned the maf he noticed a bigger performance gain and better throttle response as it was pretty gunky from what i hear. Its not a bad idea to check it either way.

chances are everything is all good the person just didnt put on a new belt. as mentioned these dont go bad really ever and most people are lazy with belts so they probably just didnt care

Got bored today so i took some pictures of my pathy. Theyre the same but i tried playing around with some colour changing and what ever and it looks really cool actually. My bumper is not finished yet so dont pay attention to the back of the car. https://imgur.com/a/S91l9gV

im gonna take some time to learn that app and see what i can come up with for my idea but in the mean time ive gotta play with it

this is the best thing i have ever seen i love you so much

i meant ground i dont know why i said 12v. But my main goal is to still have the lights turn on with the door, and also have the switch on the light itself work but all with out it going to the computer or the dash. so almost as if this add on was built in stock. i might have to draw it out or something to know what im trying to do in my head but for the most part i think i know how i could do this.

i was thinking about just going straight from the 12v wire which would be the "on" switch but then im pretty sure that would remove the feature of the lights turning on when the door is open unless i put the switch back into the middle position. There might be something out there that i can buy to put inline of the switch that would make the power go only one way and not back through to the other way. I think theres an arduino thing you can buy that does that or something for a raspberyy pi, which i want to integrate anyways somehow. So it would be like all the functionality from stock is still there but the switch on the dash turns on the light with out going through the antitheft which in turn turns on the light and not anything else that would go to the computer or dash lights. EDIT: i can do that. I use a diode. This might turn onto me figuring out how to do this stuff and post instructions for people who wants to do it them selves lol

i never really thought about the ignition fail safe thing that is a good point. if i put it with the door pin though wouldnt that turn on the dash light or are there 2 wires like one for the light and the other to tell the car itself that its open?

My dads f250 has it and so does my moms armada but the pathfinder does not. Theres a switch cover next to my dash dimmer that i would like to use and this switch would be a perfect spot for it. I might just take it on myself and make like a how to thread or something on it if i cant find any info on the topic. I was thinking tapping into the wire that turns on the lights when you open the door or something and just have a switch inline of one of those or something but so then it also doesn't interfere with the function of opening the door and having it turn on the lights with that. Ill see where i get next time i get some time to work on it since i dont have time anymore because of school starting on Tuesday.

I would like to have a button on my dash for the dome lights on the inside of the vehicle. On some cars and trucks theres a switch you can turn or press that turns on or off all the interior lights and i wanted to know where all the wires go to. Splicing in a switch to a wire is not hard but where can i find the wires that turn on the lights and has anyone does something like this before and might have some tips or insight on this.

Dang I was close. Looks good though