Strato_54

anything else done to it other then headers, exhaust and a tune? that sounds like it would kick some butt

damn thats a shame. the armada is technically my moms and shes all for the tires, straight pipe and a bush bumper and light bar with the running board delete. even though they're a luxury car they can look bad ass real fast lmao edit: we havent done any of that YET but the tires but shes all for it

my armada has the same tires but on 18s they look super sick. great tire choice my man lmao

any time man. you came to this forum for help so help is what you will get! if you dont want to run it under the og wire runs in the floor just run it next to them and tuck it next to them. but its not hard to get them through it with an old coat hanger and tape

if you can mount it outside then i would go on the licence plate mount. if not i would goo off the plastic trim for the upper brake light housing on the inside of the glass. as for the wire just run it with the brake wire and then down the paneling. under the floor carpets are where most of the factory wires run inside of a plastic white shroud. i like to run my wires through that even though it is a process it protects the wires from wear and tear. if it were mine i would run it through that from the inside of the lift gate and then through my dash and then run it up the door pillar on either side of the dash what ever is closer, and then above where the windshield meets the head liner and to the camera

ok cool good to know. it drives perfectly fine and has 0 sign of misfire so by the sounds of it i should be fine. plus im not really in the mood to fix a stupid sensor since i just finished a top end rebuild on a ford 6.0 and now got a no start so working on cars and trucks is out of my mind at this time

For years on end the SES light has been on. back in july it finally turned off on its own and has been off since. when i turn the car on it comes on then once its started it goes away. i was borrowing a scanner from my buddy and was curious if anything would come up and i got a bank 1 knock sensor code and when i deleted it and restarted the car it would come back but still no SES light or anything. it runs perfectly fine no issues that would be from this sensor. should i worry about it since theres no problems surfacing?

im really liking that shade of blue it looked sick

i know exactly where youre talking about thats where i ran my trailer power, amp cables and led light whires. i mean the part under the radio stack that meets the shifter boot. when you pull back the trim around the shifter at least on the manuals, it meets to the stack. i cant get it into the stack because i think there are hidden bolts but cant find any. or the best way to run a wire from the switch covers by the cup holders to behind the radio. the wheel wells are my favourite spots since it takes no drilling but a pain to say the least

In my 97 ive got the manual and 4x4. i install some leds and ran the switch to the 3 caps next to the hand brake. i tried pilling off the shifter boot and the trim around it to run along the edge of the boot to under my dash. there were 2 8mm bolts from what i can remember and i tried to pull the plastic up to feel the wire under and through. it would not come off. are there any other bolts on the side of this or clips that were preventing me from running them through this spot. or is there any other way thats better when im running wires from the other 2 caps in that spot?

i found it online on the nico site. ill have to look around for the wire loom section in the whole thing. or ill just do it stupid and just grab a test light and a multimeter

i just have to figure out what line is what and where basically now

The only issue with that is I do have a clutch. So I would have to run it through the fender liner which I’ve already done multiple times. Would I be able to cut the hot wire run that to my switch and then run it back to where the other end of the hot would go to the fuse? I’m low on space and can’t really pull the tire if I’m running to the battery. My fuse is inside the cab under the steering wheel

I want to install an elite modification that only a very small amount of people will ever tackle in their life time on select vehicles. A hidden fuel pump switch somewhere on my 97. I know where im going to put it, but im not gonna say where for obvious reasons. BUT im not sure what wires im gonna need for this one. Where would i find the fuel pump relay wire under the dash if one, and if there are any better ideas on how to make the kill switch even better then just fuel pump. Any and all input is welcome, but mostly wiring info. Thanks

pretty much all after market radios like sony, JVC, Alpine have a little wire for the controls. But like stated above you need a controller for them.

if youre going up to the hood and doing real deep stuff in the mud, or full on spraying the filter while its running then no you should be fine. theres no way really for water to get that high and ruin anything. Unless youre driving through a hurricane

as long as you have the engine bay space for it and it mounts some what the same yeah sure. I know people that have tig welded their own intake pipes and just thrown an K and N filter on the end of it and works perfectly fine

i personally dont think tires. i mean you should but even a small flat spot might come out once it gets rolling. as long as they arent rotten or showing their age and what not then they might be alright. Like raingoat said you should check brakes. And also check and make sure that there are no rodents living inside the engine bay

all the 4pin is really, is a ground, left, right and brake light power. if you cut the 4 pin off and put it into the 7 pin plug will still work you just run your brake wire to the pin on the 7 pin for the trailer. and then if you ever needed get a cheap 7 pin to 4 pin adapter again and use that for a trailer with out a 7pin or brakes. I did exactly this on my 97. i installed the 4 pin wiring harness for the lights cut off the end and just put it into my 7 pin plug built into my bumper. it works like it should with no issues what so ever

the 4 pin trailer plugs dont have brakes. There probably is an adapter that can add on the 7 pin connector with out cutting the 4 pin. IMO i would cut the 4pin on the car thats already there and just wire it to a 7 pin plug and just use a 7pin to 4 pin adapter for any other trailer with no brakes. Or buy a plug thing with the 7 pin adn the 4 pin

Haven't decided on what ones yet but as of right now the mile markers are probably gonna be me pick. I have heard though out side of here that the chrome sucks and it peeks but in reality ill probably take them apart and paint them myself if they do that. I am very happy with all the info that has come out of this thread and now its just a matter of when i decide i want them . but coming in to this i was pretty on the fence but now im all for them

well ill be mainly using my pathy to drive to work and school everyday and then here and there to the store when i need. I was thinking of an air compressor like a viair light duty kit or something along those lines and ive got decent tires. Theyre a little small but theyre BFG 235/75 KO and theyre practically brand new. Obviously im not going to spend money on tires when these are barely used at all but for now theyre pretty right on. And camping gear i never thought much about actually. ive got good sleeping bags and an alright tent but i dont have many chairs. I have a bunch o tear drop trailers since thats what we build at my company but i dont have a hitch for my pathy. i need one of those height adjustable ones since i built my bumper and hitch. I guess youre right though with waiting for a lift but even then im sold on getting manuals EDIT: even too if i were to get hubs i have no where to get them since i live in a small town in southern interior BC so it would either be a road trip to the next bigger town or buy warn premiums on Napa or Mile Markers on amazon

from my research from last night yes they will the chart on their site says it firs the 90-01 pathfinders. dont quote me on that but thats what i saw last night looking around

So far I see no down side other then having to get out and engage them

yeah having less wear when uneeded in the front is probably a good thing when you have that option. and i guess it wouldnt hurt much if i left the hubs engaged if i did get manual locking since it would be the same as having the stock ones. plus i dont have a locked front diff so it probably wouldnt matter