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RustFlames last won the day on December 6

RustFlames had the most liked content!

About RustFlames

  • Birthday 01/08/1986

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Black XE Manual Transmission 290,000 KM
  • Place of Residence
    30km west of Drayton Valley
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
  • Year

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Drayton Valley, Alberta, Canada
  • Country
  • Interests
    I enjoy spending time outdoors, raising my family and repairing and upgrading my pathy whenever I get the chance!

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2,701 profile views

RustFlames's Achievements

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NPORA Regular (2/5)



  1. Haha well I tore the engine apart 2 years ago, and carefully catalogued every bolt and part. I should just make a build thread when I finally have it running, without Npora I would never had made it this far. I’m getting close! just have to finnish the upper plenum. I painted it years ago but I wanted to get at the vacuum manifold underneath it. I will be stripping it and redoing it. Just finnished the fuel railing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Applied a oil shedding coating to the inside of the block, I blended out casting splatter and ejection marks. Eliminated any high spots. Just need some new bearings now. I’ve read that guys using chromoly piston rings required a 600grit fine hone. I tried giving them a 45 degree scratch deglazing with stones but wasn’t convinced I achieved a true cross hatch.
  3. Finally finnished coating the cylinder heads, 3 types of ceramic coatings on them, transfer grey on the externals, sheds heat 40% better than bare metal, piston coat which deflects heat substantially rated up to 2000 farenheit was applied to combustion chambers and exhaust ports,micro slick dry lubricant ceramic was applied to the head valley for oil drainage, also lowers the parasitic losss.prevent carbon buildup, still have to do the runners in transfer grey, the heads were also ported. Did inside the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Was thinking about doing a slight polish on the runners, Will be putting the transfer grey on outside. May even coat the bottom inside of the block in the microslick if I get motivated enough. Cleaning these parts can take a phenomenal amount of time. So these coatings are properly applied. Degreasing , outgassing, sandblasting. When this VG30e is built it should run smooth Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Got the T case cleaned up, it splits into 3 pieces,Powdercoated in Peeka Blue, Ceramic coated the hardware in armor black, Im doing something a little different with the skid plate it’s not finnished yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Here are some brackets that bolt to the block, one houses the starter, another mounts to the alternator, the 2 pieces on top of the engine mounts, blended out all the nasty spots, sandblasted and Powdercoated, the hardware has been stripped of whatever nickel plating was left and a ceramic coating applied. Also did the transmission support and some pulleys oh and a power steering rod. You know me by now guys paint it blue and call it new! The blending of welds and casting splatter on those cast metal pieces was painful, hard work pays off!
  6. Anyone from around Red Deer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hahah yes guys I mangled it. 8 flathead screwdrivers wedged in there didn’t do it any justice. I suggest if you gentlemen are to attempt this disassembly is to knock the pulley itself with a block of wood so that both the clutch plate and pulley come off together, saving you from warpage. i was going to throw it in a vice and try to squeeze it more flat, i’m just procrastinating, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Yes it’s literally a bushing pressed into a outer race, apologies I didn’t not get the part number off it, I just cleaned it off and reinserted it, I will note though when you remove the clutch from the housing there are 3 shims inside the neck to be aware of I almost dropped them on the floor without noticing. take note of how the compressor sits in those metal gaskets as well before you pull it out, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I tore apart most of the housing while waiting for the new bearing to arrive anyone that has seen any of my posts knows I have to make it blue lol The squealing bearing needed replacing I ordered a NSK 35BD219 AC Compressor Clutch Bearing I didn’t feel any desire to dismantle the compressor itself. I am curious to see it’s insides but not enough to worry about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I completely agree with adamzan, I did mine without a press just a ball peen hammer and if you give the inside of the ears where the bearing cap seats a light emery cloth scrub the new parts will go in easy, it took me a little while how to figure out how to completely dismantle the front driveshaft to clean all the old grease out of the slip yoke, i only needed to do that for the powdercoating since i had it all apart I polished the shaft with the splines and put in new grease and it slides a lot smoother. good luck and don’t drop the roller bearings on the floor when reinstalling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. That’s what my girlfriend said about this steering collum bracket with a viking compass and nordic protection runes that gets covered by the dash. Winter in Canada is cold what else to do but powdercoat every thing in sight? For the record I had a leak in an old windshield and that piece must of had water dripping on it awhile because it was encased in rust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. i had the pry tools in the right position just kept going around until it slipped out, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Ok so I want to replace the bearing in this unit and I’ve removed the 10mm nut over the pulley, but the clutch cover does not seem to want to pop up It almost looks like a lock washer underneath but i’m thinking it’s part of the inner diameter of the top plate, perhaps it’s seized down in the recess and lube and heat will release of, anyone ever disassemble one of these? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Hey thanks guys, yes well I had to put my other wheels on hold for now since it’s -40 C* Out in the shop. I started working on a different wheel, the flywheel, I wasnt happy with the appearance of it so I coated the inside cast iron part and the outer lip, then just started at 80 grit approach with the emery paper up to 3k grit, then polished with green and white emery, using a dremel then metal polished, Gives a nice mirror reflection, not bad for a 26 year old part. The other side I left alone except for the inner diameter around the flange Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Got the old spare tire dismounted, bead blasted the barrel and the backside left the chrome intact Applied a base coat of signal white, put down a powdercoat of glowbee clear, laid down the template then sprayed the rest of the backside with ink black, peeled off the decal then finally baked on a gloss clear over everything, now i’m polishing the chrome up, only 4 rims to go The entire inside of the rim is somewhat illuminated from the glow, it’s pretty sexy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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