Strato_54

Well it doesn’t get that hot at all, my top rad hose only sits at about 60-70C but would probably be colder with pressure when I resolve this issue

Don't have anything new really to show other then this cold start i got today, and also this front plate mount I had to make. Cold start The muffler I have on right now is a Cherrybomb Turbo, dumping out right before the rear axle as we got lazy and didn't want to finish it to the tailpipe. I'm thinking about doing a straight pipe once it passes inspection but who knows, I might keep it as is. Plate mount The plate mount is made out of basic angle aluminum i had lying around the shop. Just drilled some holes and welded it together with a polish. It looks good in the silver colour it has mounted so chances are I wont be painting it, and ill probably make a new one for my rear plate mount.

UPDATE: I think I have found the culprit to my pressurizing issues. Not 100% sure yet but will try again tomorrow and have a final answer for this thread. Heres what has been happening (taken today after running for about a half hour or more) This is a visual of the issue. What I believe the issue is: Today I grabbed a new radiator pressure cap as i had thought my old one was done... This was sadly not the case. The old pressure cap was perfectly fine but it wasn't an issue with the cap itself. It was an issue with the cap not sealing. In the radiator where the smaller seal makes contact with the brim of the radiator just before the overflow tube, there was a little bit of plastic scratched away which in turn made the bottom ring not seal. To also make it worse, it was all gunked up with old coolant dirt. After scratching it away and making the surface a little more smooth for the seal, it finally made the upper rad tube stiffer to squeeze. From what i can tell. This might just be my head thinking it is or my fingers burning on coolant lines, but i think i may be on to something. This is definitely something i've never seen or heard of, and i thought i would share this experience with you guys. Ill edit this thread tomorrow with the final verdict.

yeah probably. and im not sure what its call honestly, im a bullet proof 6.0 and 7.3 guy so i couldnt tell you. i like the 6.7 but that exhaust crap is just annoying lol

im probably going to go down and look for one if i get the chance to. i dont know if this 3.0 has that anti smoke stuff on it because its such low power. but knowing ford and EPA or what ever it probably does. And if you just did a direct transfer of the exhaust sensors it should be fine i think. Might have to try it out here in the next year or 2

granted if its a diesel people dont know how to take care of powerstrokes. but the rest are pretty much trash anyways lol

I know what you're thinking, yes this is a Nissan pathfinder forum and I'm talking a bout a powerstroke. But just wait. I'm a ford guy and always have been. I love the powerstrokes and know more about them then most people should. But just today i found out they didnt only have the 6.7L. They also make a 3.0 v6 for the F-150. Now the first thing i thought was holy crap how did i not know about this. then the next thing i thought was..... Would it fit in the R50 engine bay. From what i can see its not an enormous engine but its still out of an f150. I wanted to know if anyone knows anything on this engine and its size and if i could Frankenstein a pathy.

Heres my baby. Gave her a good cleaning today. Vacuumed out the floors front and back. Sat in the rain for 2 days not being touched so it got some dust water spots so might as well grab the hose. Ignore the front wires the lights arent working. Im mounting a 25inch bar in place of them. https://imgur.com/a/LyYj52O

upload to imgur and add the link of the picture to your post

i just realized from my last reply that i dont give a fskc if it leaves me stranded in the middle of nowhere as long as the engine is ok thats what i care about wow lol

if it leaves me stranded what ever its not hard to call my dad and get a trailer. and as long as the chances of the engine doing serious damage if the belt snaps is pretty low then im happy. i dont really have the time or energy right now to replace it and i just wanna see if i will be able to let it go for a little bit longer.

so if i had the original belt on it, even just inspecting and if i can see its still in good shape (again this engine has next to no heavy use other then commuting around at this point) i can just leave it alone. but only if then but if its in noticeably bad shape i would obviously change it. This kinda what youre saying? some people say change them every 7 or so years and the manual says about 160k i believe so theres different opinions. if its in good shape would you say just leave it even if its the factory one?

I'm not the best at working on engines and mechanics yet as i am still learning (15 almost 16) but i do know for a fact the the VG33E is an interference engine and that if the timing belt breaks on these types of engines it could do some serious damage. If my timing belt snaps on this engine, what are the possible things that could result coming from that happening. I saw somewhere that some pistons have grooves in the heads deep enough so that if it does break that even if the valve was open it wont do any damage and all you would have to do is replace the timing best. Is this the case and should i worry changing the belt right now. I do believe it is the same belt from factory (97) with only 90k on it. If i let it break is there a good chance it wont break anything serious or do i have to change it now.

the idle bump i get when dumping the gas and letting off has been there for years, even when my family used it normally as a daily so its not a new thing. and there hasnt been any leaks since i filled the rad with water then did a flush for normal coolant. all it does now is not pressurize and from what i see it doesnt over heat anymore and that the water does circulate. then again i wouldnt know what that car looks like over heating except for the one day where it wouldnt even move a foot on its own while running (it sounds very bad i know but at that moment we werent at our shop and we were getting it there. we thought it was a fuel error) it probably is the rad cap

Alright I’ll try that later

The thing is though the car has 90k kilometres on it. So it hasn’t had much time to have @!*% happen to it. The idle thing is what ever honestly but it’s mainly the pressurizing thing I care about. As long as my engine gets water and stays cool with out pressure I’m cool with it for now. But if this is going to lead to damage later on I’d like to know what I gotta do edit: I should mention it’s a 97

A few months back i had to move my pathy out of storage and up to my shop so i can work on it as it had been sitting for a few years maybe more with out being ran or even touched. When we got there it had over heated so bad you could feel it inside the cab. The coolant had disappeared totally... The next day we had filled the engine with water and ran it for a good half hour or more and it didnt even lose a drop. All is good now. It runs and it doesnt over heat. BUTTTTT. The system does not pressurize. I have not had too much with engines to know if all systems will pressurize or not. The vehicle does not over heat as it runs flawless and the coolant gauge shows half way when it has been running for a while. The top rad hose gets extremely hot to the touch (as i think it should) but i can squeeze it like nothing. Almost as if there is nothing in there even when its cold. Is it supposed to be this soft or is it supposed to be more firm? Also opn a side note a little away from topic. This shouldnt be a big issue but when ever i press the gas and let off of it, as the rpms go down it almost jumped up 1 line to about 1200 from 1100 then it idles. Is that normal or is that just something small that doesnt need attention?

you do have a point i never thought of that actually. But what if the intake was moved to be "colder" then where the stock one is, and also had a high airflow filter? I don't know much about intakes and what not so might as well ask now lol

Spotify is the way tro go. So might as well use that if possible

I want to put a cold air intake/high air flow on my 97. Are they worth it on these engines or not at all? If they are good on these engines/cars what about them makes it worth it, and what brands/models are the best. But if they are not worth it, why exactly?

bought a hitch for it. its off of a 2012 rav4 so im going to cut it up and make my own bumper with the actual hitch slot part. i got a great deal on it its a curt mfg class 5 hitch for 20 bucks

by the looks of what i could find these should be the ones but don't quote me on that. If you want a different option heres another. it says it SHOULD fit pathfrinder aswell even though they are listed for toyota. but i would go with my first option personally

it is for the radio nothing else

Can I go with out this antenna then. Like my keyless remote won’t just stop working. All it will do is lessen my radio signal (I use Spotify radio sucks here)?

On my 97 SE I have to get the windshield replaced. I called a few places and all of them asked about antennas and I said no because I didn’t think there were. But I got to my shop and looked closely at it and noticed an orange line coming from the centre of the glass. It goes from top to bottom then shoots over to the driver side and that’s all there is. Do I have the antenna in my windshield? And if so what is it even for?