Strato_54

I used a gates kit on my 97 and am very happy with it so far. the tensioner felt very nice water pump was great also. i do recommend doing the cam seals too and like said above the thermostat. when i pulled off the rear cover and the cam gears my passenger side had a massive oil leak that i didnt even know about until i got in there. so i recommend you do those too for a few bucks its worth it.

i pulled it apart and got to the module. i checked over all the solder points and they look like new so i didnt bother. all the resistors on the inside looked alright too so i just cleaned off the screw contact points a little bit and now im just gonna wait and see. if it does it again ill do the solder points regardless next time if it ever does do it again. i did not see anything loose either so maybe jarring it enough to make better contact with the screws helped. time will tell.

i might do that on friday. but the thing is i have my drivers test on monday and i cant work on it until friday because of school and what not so i dont want to tear into it a few days before and then have it not work at all. i might just do that because im probably over thinking it since ive never taken this apart before. would that also give me the code p0500 then if that was the issue and theres a bad joint somewhere? EDIT: just watched a video on how to take it apart so ill just try it tomorrow or something and hope that works out

Well it happened again, and it gets a little weird. It stopped working the other day so I tried the same fix as the first time and that worked. Then it happened again. I tapped in the plastic and it spring to life. But then I got a p0500 code and the dash wasn’t working. I cleared the code and punched it again and then it sprung back up to working. Why?

had this problem in my armada. the glass handle would work and the hatch handle would not. there is a little cable on the inside that goes to the handle mechanism that had slipped out of its hook. not 100% sure if the pathfinder is the same but it probably will be. and you can get to the latch from inside of the car you just have to crawl in and pull off the plastic panel. the steps are listed above by R50JR.

still think its absolutely hilarious how its been this long and its been in changed. BUT i ordered all the parts on rock auto and will be here Thursday including a new rad and fan since both have decided to kick the can. to anyone who is putting off their timing belt do not do it it is bad and can end horrific. im just lazy and didnt have the funds

oh man do i ever! at least it gives me something to do lmao

No problem! I’ve tried looking for these online before and couldn’t find any that would fit this so I said screw it I’ll just make my own. I’m very happy I did.

Never had a WD21 or have enough knowledge on them so though I’d just stick it here. If they fit the wd21 then that’s pretty good to know

Found the fix. I pulled it apart again today unplugged the plugs and checked all the pins. All looked good plugged back in. Still didn’t fix it. I then tried tightening the screws that make contact with the traces for the speedo and I was able to get a good half turn out of all 4 around it. I also did the screws around the tach and fixed the problem. The contact points did look a little spotty where it made contact with air as copper would.

yeah after i posted my last reply i remembered the bluedriver OBD reader on amazon. i remember downloading the app and playing with it and it seemed like it read a lot of data so maybe ill buy that since this past year it seems all of the vehicles my family owns wants to no longer work. armada has huge exhaust leaks through the whole system and a flashing airbag light. my dads 6.0 blew a HG in January in my school parking lot (typical 6.0 fashion but it only has 137 km so pretty early lmao) and that didnt want to run because it took out the HPOP and all the sensors along with it. tomorrow when i get up to my shop ill take it apart again and ill check out all of the pins. i did check on friday when i reseated the plugs that there were no wires hanging out of the plastic harness itself but ill check again and ill look closer then i did the first time. hopfully its something small as i still need to get it inspected for the out of province inspection which should be happening here soon when i get a new rad and windshield.

Hello people of NPORA! Recently I've gotten into 3D CAD and wanted to make something practical and useful. I decided to make a few switch pieces that fit my 97 switch spaces but didn't want to cut the original black covers. So i 3D printed a few with the switch size i needed already cut and they work amazing! But i thought that some of you on here, or people finding this in the future might want to either spice up their dash with some colour, or just needed some replacements. Below I've listed a few images of what mine look like and the settings for the 3D print along with the STL files. They are not built to the exact of the originals but are close enough. Even though you can probably find these for a few bucks at a JY or on eBay, its still something fun to do if you have the time, materials and access to a printer. Enjoy! Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/R9oA6th STL Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4564996 Print settings: Printer: FT-5 R1 Resolution: .2 Infill: 30% Supports: No Speed: 50 Flow: 100 Rafts: Doesn't matter

all i have is an obd2 code reader and thats about it. i wanna try and find one thats a bit on the cheaper side that can read data but who knows. i also dont have access to another cluster since no one else i know local has an R50 and the really good junk yard down the street from my shop recently closed so i cant go there either. ill try looking at the connections closer and see what that looks like. if i go into the cluster to check that out what do i look for? just anything that could be fried basically?

i read somewhere that a good way to test the sensor is that if cruise control doesnt take over then its a bad sensor? which would make sense if true and i might try that tomorrow just to narrow it down for peace of mind. if it were the speedo itself what would be a good plan of attack to check that? all i did then i took it apart was pulled the 3 main plugs pulled the dash changed the bulbs plugged it in made sure they worked and put it together. its was a half hour later i noticed it was not working. like i said i did try to reseat the plugs and didnt work. maybe try that again idk. is there a special way to check wiring and or the speedo in the cluster?

as much as i would love to throw parts at it im pretty sure its not that. it was working before i pulled the dash if i remember correctly. so maybe its something else. is there a fuse for the dash somewhere maybe? i guess i should be asking what should i look at first to make sure i didnt fry something

Today I made the discovery that the speedo and odo are not working. Was just moving the pathy out of the shop and around the yard and realized at 3k rpm I had no speedo. After doing circles in the yard the ODO and trip won’t work either. All of the other gauges work. I tried reading the codes and besides a bank 1 knock sensor there’s no VSS codes. I did pull apart my dash to finish a few LED lights so I did have the cluster out and unplugged. I tried unplugging and reseating the plugs with no avail. Any ideas?

i might just end up doing that also. i mean i dont smoke but it would just finish the rest of the car having all interior LED

welp thats a negative on the wiper switch getting an LED for today. took it apart and the bulb is insanely tiny. i also could not get the ash tray light out i think its soldered in there and the cigarette lighter light i did change but it wouldn't click back in because the LED was too tall. so i just glued it in and called it a day. i was finally also able to get the HVAC. i guess the first time i just didn't try hard enough but it does take some force to get it to move. Dash looks great now and i am very pleased

ive looked up pictures of the switch and it looks like a few clips on the side and the switch cover and rocker comes off but im not sure if it uses the same bulb as the rest of my dash. when i do pull it apart ill make sure to put it back here for anyone else reading

thanks for the picture. didnt see this until now but i will be getting them changed here this week or something just gotta wait for amazon to ship my pack. im not going ot bother doing the ac and recirc either all i need is the dials to be changed. maybe if i have enough extra ill try them but ill see where i get to EDIT: cam i change the bulb in the wiper switch for the rear aswell?

im hoping it doesn't do that anytime soon it wouldn't be to fun but at the same time its been this long im almost surprised that it hasn't gone already

update still have yet to change it. been to busy with work the past few months but shes still going strong lmao. should be changed by mid august

Ok sick thats awesome. ill get more of those LEDs on amazon since i used all mine on my dumby lights and my indicators. i assumed that i had to pop off the knobs and had to pull off the face plate for the HVAC. Couldnt find much when i looked around and all the PB links were dead. thank you, you have made my night!

Yes I am talking about the left hand lever. If it has day time runners then it could be the hand brake signal. Not 100% on the WD21 but on most vehicles it’s connected to the parking brake. On my 97 when I put the hand brake down the day time runners come on and on my 6.0 they turn on and off with the parking brake. The chime is also supposed to go off with the key in the ignition. The only time it goes is seat belt, head lights being on or the key in the ignition when the door is opened. There very well still could be an issue with the lever itself or the previous owner wired something funny to it.

Could be the actual head light switch/parking light switch. The internal connectors could be broken and are on all the time because of that. This would be a good explanation for the lights on but no ignition. The door chime is also connected to the switch so that you don't leave the lights on when you exit the vehicle. The chime only activates when the door is open rather then when its all closed up as it would get quite annoying if you were sitting inside with the chime on for no reason.