Strato_54

Found the fix. I pulled it apart again today unplugged the plugs and checked all the pins. All looked good plugged back in. Still didn’t fix it. I then tried tightening the screws that make contact with the traces for the speedo and I was able to get a good half turn out of all 4 around it. I also did the screws around the tach and fixed the problem. The contact points did look a little spotty where it made contact with air as copper would.

yeah after i posted my last reply i remembered the bluedriver OBD reader on amazon. i remember downloading the app and playing with it and it seemed like it read a lot of data so maybe ill buy that since this past year it seems all of the vehicles my family owns wants to no longer work. armada has huge exhaust leaks through the whole system and a flashing airbag light. my dads 6.0 blew a HG in January in my school parking lot (typical 6.0 fashion but it only has 137 km so pretty early lmao) and that didnt want to run because it took out the HPOP and all the sensors along with it. tomorrow when i get up to my shop ill take it apart again and ill check out all of the pins. i did check on friday when i reseated the plugs that there were no wires hanging out of the plastic harness itself but ill check again and ill look closer then i did the first time. hopfully its something small as i still need to get it inspected for the out of province inspection which should be happening here soon when i get a new rad and windshield.

Hello people of NPORA! Recently I've gotten into 3D CAD and wanted to make something practical and useful. I decided to make a few switch pieces that fit my 97 switch spaces but didn't want to cut the original black covers. So i 3D printed a few with the switch size i needed already cut and they work amazing! But i thought that some of you on here, or people finding this in the future might want to either spice up their dash with some colour, or just needed some replacements. Below I've listed a few images of what mine look like and the settings for the 3D print along with the STL files. They are not built to the exact of the originals but are close enough. Even though you can probably find these for a few bucks at a JY or on eBay, its still something fun to do if you have the time, materials and access to a printer. Enjoy! Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/R9oA6th STL Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4564996 Print settings: Printer: FT-5 R1 Resolution: .2 Infill: 30% Supports: No Speed: 50 Flow: 100 Rafts: Doesn't matter

all i have is an obd2 code reader and thats about it. i wanna try and find one thats a bit on the cheaper side that can read data but who knows. i also dont have access to another cluster since no one else i know local has an R50 and the really good junk yard down the street from my shop recently closed so i cant go there either. ill try looking at the connections closer and see what that looks like. if i go into the cluster to check that out what do i look for? just anything that could be fried basically?

i read somewhere that a good way to test the sensor is that if cruise control doesnt take over then its a bad sensor? which would make sense if true and i might try that tomorrow just to narrow it down for peace of mind. if it were the speedo itself what would be a good plan of attack to check that? all i did then i took it apart was pulled the 3 main plugs pulled the dash changed the bulbs plugged it in made sure they worked and put it together. its was a half hour later i noticed it was not working. like i said i did try to reseat the plugs and didnt work. maybe try that again idk. is there a special way to check wiring and or the speedo in the cluster?

as much as i would love to throw parts at it im pretty sure its not that. it was working before i pulled the dash if i remember correctly. so maybe its something else. is there a fuse for the dash somewhere maybe? i guess i should be asking what should i look at first to make sure i didnt fry something

Today I made the discovery that the speedo and odo are not working. Was just moving the pathy out of the shop and around the yard and realized at 3k rpm I had no speedo. After doing circles in the yard the ODO and trip won’t work either. All of the other gauges work. I tried reading the codes and besides a bank 1 knock sensor there’s no VSS codes. I did pull apart my dash to finish a few LED lights so I did have the cluster out and unplugged. I tried unplugging and reseating the plugs with no avail. Any ideas?

i might just end up doing that also. i mean i dont smoke but it would just finish the rest of the car having all interior LED

welp thats a negative on the wiper switch getting an LED for today. took it apart and the bulb is insanely tiny. i also could not get the ash tray light out i think its soldered in there and the cigarette lighter light i did change but it wouldn't click back in because the LED was too tall. so i just glued it in and called it a day. i was finally also able to get the HVAC. i guess the first time i just didn't try hard enough but it does take some force to get it to move. Dash looks great now and i am very pleased

ive looked up pictures of the switch and it looks like a few clips on the side and the switch cover and rocker comes off but im not sure if it uses the same bulb as the rest of my dash. when i do pull it apart ill make sure to put it back here for anyone else reading

thanks for the picture. didnt see this until now but i will be getting them changed here this week or something just gotta wait for amazon to ship my pack. im not going ot bother doing the ac and recirc either all i need is the dials to be changed. maybe if i have enough extra ill try them but ill see where i get to EDIT: cam i change the bulb in the wiper switch for the rear aswell?

im hoping it doesn't do that anytime soon it wouldn't be to fun but at the same time its been this long im almost surprised that it hasn't gone already

update still have yet to change it. been to busy with work the past few months but shes still going strong lmao. should be changed by mid august

Ok sick thats awesome. ill get more of those LEDs on amazon since i used all mine on my dumby lights and my indicators. i assumed that i had to pop off the knobs and had to pull off the face plate for the HVAC. Couldnt find much when i looked around and all the PB links were dead. thank you, you have made my night!

Yes I am talking about the left hand lever. If it has day time runners then it could be the hand brake signal. Not 100% on the WD21 but on most vehicles it’s connected to the parking brake. On my 97 when I put the hand brake down the day time runners come on and on my 6.0 they turn on and off with the parking brake. The chime is also supposed to go off with the key in the ignition. The only time it goes is seat belt, head lights being on or the key in the ignition when the door is opened. There very well still could be an issue with the lever itself or the previous owner wired something funny to it.

Could be the actual head light switch/parking light switch. The internal connectors could be broken and are on all the time because of that. This would be a good explanation for the lights on but no ignition. The door chime is also connected to the switch so that you don't leave the lights on when you exit the vehicle. The chime only activates when the door is open rather then when its all closed up as it would get quite annoying if you were sitting inside with the chime on for no reason.

i dont believe there is a stock harness plug but if you would like to install one then something like this is what you want if there isnt a plug already there by chance.

Over the past little while i have been attempting a full LED conversion. I have completed the dash but i want to also do the climate control back lighting, but i cant for the life of me figure out how to get it out. On top of not being able to find many videos or threads on this topic, i dont have a spare unit to play with if this one breaks. So with that said, has any one does the back light LED install on the unit before? If so how in the world did you get that done lmao

ill have to ride a few bikes and will have to go through a few "the bikes" until i really find "the bike" of my dreams lmao. never been as far as whistler but ive got a few hidden XC trails that have a few unmarked jump trails and tech. but those are more of a community kept area and not much of a full public DH park like Silver star or Sun peaks just to name a few semi local.

i want to get a Norco range A2 or just some sort of enduro bike. right now im a little short on my bike line up as all i have is a Norco Storm 9.2 2017 just for basic trail riding or going to the store. ive gotta save my pennies though and look through pinkbike or kijiji for something cheap but not built cheap.

Looks really good and really clean glad you were able to make it work. the matte black makes anything look cool. not to make this a bike thread but what are you running?

I am running BFG KO not the KO2. theyre a 235/75/15 and run amazing but in the future im planning on going for some KO2 265/70/16 or something like that when i get wheels. Also have the KO2 on our Armada and KO on my dads F250 Lariat they have been nothing but great to us. We have had Wranglers on before but they were wearing really fast on road and was rounding off the sides of the tread. Had them on both the Armada and the 6.0 and both times same thing.

for a bike rack like this that 2 inches shouldn't matter unless youre going off road with it. if youre using it to go from home to trail head then it shouldn't be an issue what so ever. i probably wrote half of a little backwards but ig you get the point then thats good. tomorrow i can take some pictures and post them of what my mounts look like for reference. so far have not had any clearance issues but if you did then the unbolting of the brackets would definitely be helpful even if it takes a little bit of effort.

the way i mounted my bush bumper was a piece of square tubing going under the support from the tie down brackets. that way its a full unbolt if i need it gone. each piece is about 4 inches long on each tie down, but those are also tapped with 2 bolt holes each with 5/8th grade 8 bolts and then that has another piece of square tubing going across. reason for this is to not block the radiator drain plug. then in the center i did a simple 2 inch or what ever the standard size is of square tubing for a hitch is, drilled a hitch pin hole and then thats my front mount. with having that full length of square tubing it misses the radiator and makes it easily removable from the front end if you ever wanted it fully off. i welded these together so if you dont have a welder then i would skip half of what i said and just tap holes for a long piece of square tubing going from tie down to tie down. it will just be a bit harder to unbolt. EDIT: never installed one of these on a car before i prefer the roof mount or rear mount but i use mine for a future winch basket that ill probably fab up at some point. or also good for recovery point. these are on the sub frame rails so not sure about bending them or not but other wise so far so good for me.

its a good thing its only 2 screws and and a few clips to remove lol.