Strato_54

thanks for the picture. didnt see this until now but i will be getting them changed here this week or something just gotta wait for amazon to ship my pack. im not going ot bother doing the ac and recirc either all i need is the dials to be changed. maybe if i have enough extra ill try them but ill see where i get to EDIT: cam i change the bulb in the wiper switch for the rear aswell?

im hoping it doesn't do that anytime soon it wouldn't be to fun but at the same time its been this long im almost surprised that it hasn't gone already

update still have yet to change it. been to busy with work the past few months but shes still going strong lmao. should be changed by mid august

Ok sick thats awesome. ill get more of those LEDs on amazon since i used all mine on my dumby lights and my indicators. i assumed that i had to pop off the knobs and had to pull off the face plate for the HVAC. Couldnt find much when i looked around and all the PB links were dead. thank you, you have made my night!

Yes I am talking about the left hand lever. If it has day time runners then it could be the hand brake signal. Not 100% on the WD21 but on most vehicles it’s connected to the parking brake. On my 97 when I put the hand brake down the day time runners come on and on my 6.0 they turn on and off with the parking brake. The chime is also supposed to go off with the key in the ignition. The only time it goes is seat belt, head lights being on or the key in the ignition when the door is opened. There very well still could be an issue with the lever itself or the previous owner wired something funny to it.

Could be the actual head light switch/parking light switch. The internal connectors could be broken and are on all the time because of that. This would be a good explanation for the lights on but no ignition. The door chime is also connected to the switch so that you don't leave the lights on when you exit the vehicle. The chime only activates when the door is open rather then when its all closed up as it would get quite annoying if you were sitting inside with the chime on for no reason.

i dont believe there is a stock harness plug but if you would like to install one then something like this is what you want if there isnt a plug already there by chance.

Over the past little while i have been attempting a full LED conversion. I have completed the dash but i want to also do the climate control back lighting, but i cant for the life of me figure out how to get it out. On top of not being able to find many videos or threads on this topic, i dont have a spare unit to play with if this one breaks. So with that said, has any one does the back light LED install on the unit before? If so how in the world did you get that done lmao

ill have to ride a few bikes and will have to go through a few "the bikes" until i really find "the bike" of my dreams lmao. never been as far as whistler but ive got a few hidden XC trails that have a few unmarked jump trails and tech. but those are more of a community kept area and not much of a full public DH park like Silver star or Sun peaks just to name a few semi local.

i want to get a Norco range A2 or just some sort of enduro bike. right now im a little short on my bike line up as all i have is a Norco Storm 9.2 2017 just for basic trail riding or going to the store. ive gotta save my pennies though and look through pinkbike or kijiji for something cheap but not built cheap.

Looks really good and really clean glad you were able to make it work. the matte black makes anything look cool. not to make this a bike thread but what are you running?

I am running BFG KO not the KO2. theyre a 235/75/15 and run amazing but in the future im planning on going for some KO2 265/70/16 or something like that when i get wheels. Also have the KO2 on our Armada and KO on my dads F250 Lariat they have been nothing but great to us. We have had Wranglers on before but they were wearing really fast on road and was rounding off the sides of the tread. Had them on both the Armada and the 6.0 and both times same thing.

why the original bose head unit though? just for resale value or unable to install an after market?

for a bike rack like this that 2 inches shouldn't matter unless youre going off road with it. if youre using it to go from home to trail head then it shouldn't be an issue what so ever. i probably wrote half of a little backwards but ig you get the point then thats good. tomorrow i can take some pictures and post them of what my mounts look like for reference. so far have not had any clearance issues but if you did then the unbolting of the brackets would definitely be helpful even if it takes a little bit of effort.

the way i mounted my bush bumper was a piece of square tubing going under the support from the tie down brackets. that way its a full unbolt if i need it gone. each piece is about 4 inches long on each tie down, but those are also tapped with 2 bolt holes each with 5/8th grade 8 bolts and then that has another piece of square tubing going across. reason for this is to not block the radiator drain plug. then in the center i did a simple 2 inch or what ever the standard size is of square tubing for a hitch is, drilled a hitch pin hole and then thats my front mount. with having that full length of square tubing it misses the radiator and makes it easily removable from the front end if you ever wanted it fully off. i welded these together so if you dont have a welder then i would skip half of what i said and just tap holes for a long piece of square tubing going from tie down to tie down. it will just be a bit harder to unbolt. EDIT: never installed one of these on a car before i prefer the roof mount or rear mount but i use mine for a future winch basket that ill probably fab up at some point. or also good for recovery point. these are on the sub frame rails so not sure about bending them or not but other wise so far so good for me.

its a good thing its only 2 screws and and a few clips to remove lol.

the vibration could be a wheel bearing like said above. had that on my armada and it turned into a squeak after a while when turning. if all fuses are fine and all wires appear to be fine then it would lead to the hazard button itself. when its not plugged in none of them work no clicking no flashing no anything. pull off the trim panel and make sure that it is fully plugged in and the button is functional. i figured that part out when i did a dash light conversion and tried the signals and it didnt work until the trim was plugged in. gave me a heart attack for a minute thinking i fried my dash but in the end just being that massive plug

the burn out sounds like it went A-OK and good job on that one. i would say thermostat also. in my head thats the only thing that would do something like that or water pump not circulating

Ebay would be a good spot to get a keyfob for cheap. and that maxima key fob should work also i dont see why it wouldnt.

Well if you did a swap it could’ve been all the air coming out of the lines. My 6.0 did it after I did the HG. the oil rails for the injectors were filled with air and it ran terrible and then it popped a few times then ran great. Glad to hear you got it figured lol

well theres lots of people on this forum that can help you out, and there is quite a bit of info in here that you will just have to look around for. these are unibody not body on frame which means body lift is a no go.. you can do a sub frame drop, but that to my knowledge doesn't provide any lift. as for parts there are a few different combinations and options you can go with. i suggest checking out this video created by a user here in this forum. in the video it explains the different options for lifts and can help you decide what exactly you're looking for. welcome to the forum!

So ive taken an interest in the vg30 cam swap into the vg33 and want to know what the actual numbers look like in terms of performance, what the benefit is besides having a taller lobe and an what can be expected when the cams are swapped. i read somewhere that the 33E cams were made for torque so that got me thinking, does the 30E cams bring those numbers down or bring them up since they the specs appear the same. and if anyone has any tips on cam swaps with any cams that would be great too. ex, euro cams from 4x4 parts, Schneider cams and so on so forth.

not sure what you mean for right timing position and gates, continental are pretty decent all around belt brands. ive seen aisin floating around a lot so they also seem to be alright. if youre talking about where the timing has to be there should be marks on the crank and cam shaft sprockets and on the heads and block pointing to where they should be lined up.

when i was learning stick in this car actually i never got the knock it was either stall or jump. this is the first time ive gotten the knock which was actually learning hwo to slip the clutch up hill. ive always liked the 300zx and even the 240 they seem like theyre kinda fun to play with

some people still chooses to go out and party and others choose to throw a ball in the air and catch it in their house. but going out to a shop that you and only you goto during this time is great choice to keep buys but also stay safe from the public where you have the chance of getting sick. im doing the same thing im doing a rad swap, fan swap, filters, timing belt, seals and all this coming week or so. opening spotify and wrenching stuff is going to be what saves me from boredom this coming weeks. and i suggest heating the area first with an electric heat gun or something along those lines. every time ive ever heated my area and then painted helped a lot with it curing to the primer and the primer to the object.