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MiltonWATech99

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MiltonWATech99 last won the day on February 28 2020

MiltonWATech99 had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Owner of a borderline illegal Pathy!
  • Place of Residence
    Milton, Washington
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Location
    Milton, Washington
  • Country
    United States

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419 profile views

MiltonWATech99's Achievements

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  1. Bump! Steven with Rugged Rocks is currently building my new 180 amp alternator. Can’t wait! I’ve already upgraded my battery charging wire, ground wires, and added a body to alternator ground. The top voltage with a stock alternator went up from 14.1 to 14.3 volts just by doing that. At this point, the new alternator will be plug-and-play.
  2. Thank you all for the input! Assuming the next stimulus checks are sent out sometime soon, this alternator will be the first thing I purchase. I’m satisfied with the feedback I’m hearing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Does the 14.8 volts treat your electrical system well or is the voltage less than that for your application? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Does the 14.8 volts treat your electrical system well or is the voltage less than that for your application? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hello everyone. I haven’t posted on this forum in quite some time as I’ve resorted to the WD21 Facebook group for a while. Im wondering if anyone on here has any experience with the Rugged Rocks high output alternator for the WD21. I’m looking into getting one if another stimulus check drops. It’s quite pricey at $470 but features 130 amps of output current at idle with a max voltage of 14.8 volts and max current of 180-200 amps. I will upgrade all my wiring to 2/0 AWG and install a 200 amp ANL fuse on the charging wire. Would I be the first to install one of these? This or the Mean Green Alternator? Opinions welcome! https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-high-output-alternator-by-rugged-rocks-1990-1995-30l-v6-180-amp-p-60702.html
  6. Looks like it. You should get a thermostat and necessary gasket sets while you’re down that far in the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. A couple other things I would do while in there is clean/replace the engine air filter and clean the throttle body plate. If you notice your throttle cable is loose, tighten that up too. I noticed a small boost in performance doing all of that.
  8. Definitely worth it in my opinion. This is all preventative maintenance. It’s like doing oil changes and tune-ups. One thing you could potentially do is feed some compressed air into the spark plug hole of each cylinder, then turn the engine over with a breaker bar to hear if any air leaks out the intake or exhaust when those valves are CLOSED. I haven’t had to do it, but I would suggest buying a leak down tester for a future investment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Cylinders 3 and 5 seem to be low on compression if those are your final numbers. I would do a leak down test on those two cylinders as well as cylinder 6 to see where the blow by comes from (intake or exhaust). If you decide to go through with this project, a new thermostat, water pump, and timing belt are a must. I’d also replace the front main and cam seals while you’re in there. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hello again everyone, I did a little research on ways to install an oil pressure gauge and came across either installing an oil filter sandwich plate, replacing the factory pressure sender with an aftermarket sensor, or installing the sensor elsewhere on the block. I heard there were three or four other threads to tap into on the VG30E block with 1/8” BSPT threads like the oil pressure sender for the instrument cluster. Anyone know where these thread holes are? Would it be easier to install a sandwich plate? Thanks!
  11. Have fun. You have to relieve tension on the torsion bars before you can drop the LCA. The anchor arm underneath the second crossmember needs to be loosened, but the locking nut on top needs to be loosened first. All 19 mm (3/4”) bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I pulled the hardware off the donor. However, that side bracket with the fasteners on it wasn’t present on the donor. It had two sets of nuts and bolts mounted to the frame without any sort of assembly on the sides. I’ll have to pull up a photo later on of what I’m talking about because once again it’s very hard to explain in words. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. That would be sweet! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. No doubt it was. It took three coats of rust neutralizer to finally eat away at the rust. Two coats of primer and base coat, and three coats of primer later and she’s ready to go on. Now for the hitch. It’s ready, but where should the guide holes be drilled for the screws to the frame? My frame might be different than the ‘92 SE (same year and model as my Pathy) I pulled it off of because I was able to access the nuts from above the bolts. On my frame, it’s closed so I can only drill into it without fitting a nut in there. It’s hard to describe in words but I’ll have to find a photo to describe the process. [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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