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jjonez last won the day on March 15 2018

jjonez had the most liked content!

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About jjonez

  • Birthday 07/19/1992

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 Pathfinder SE (RIP) 1987 Pathfinder SE 2002 Pathfinder SE
  • Place of Residence
    San Diego
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
    United States

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jjonez's Achievements

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  1. Hi guys long time since I've been on. I replaced my valve covers/gaskets recently in my 02 to deal with a leak and to try to mitigate oil consumption, and after putting it all back together I now get a tapping noise from the driver side valvetrain on cold starts. The colder the ambient temp the louder it is. It steadily quiets down as the truck warms up and engine sounds totally normal after about 10 minutes driving. It is most noticeable inside the car with windows up/doors closed, can barely hear it outside the car. So I know it's obviously something with the cams/buckets, maybe some crud got dropped in there during the repair. I can remove the valve cover again, but my question is what should I be preparing for when I get in there? Not really sure how to address the issue once it's all apart... Thanks for your suggestions! Side note: All my old followed content is gone. was this because I was idle for too long or did something happen to the servers?
  2. TL;DR if your stubborn clutch doesn't want to get rid of that last little air bubble, give it a few mega stomps to coerce it. I found an instance where aggression actually is the answer! And no I'm not getting political. A few days ago my clutch master cylinder blew on the way to work and the car was basically undrivable. After a tow to the mechanic and a subsequent tow back home (mechanic wanted $500!!!!!! to fix), I ordered a new part and installed in the dark after work, but couldn't get the system fully bled after an hour of attempts. I could still drive the car with a squishy clutch so I waited until this evening to give it another go, this time reverse-bleeding using a syringe. When a few attempts of that didn't work I was pissed, and took my frustration out on the clutch pedal, giving it about a dozen nuclear powered rage stomps. Clutch works perfect now...
  3. Very clean. Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. I'm on my third sending unit, and it still reads low on the dash once warm, but when testing with a mechanical gauge it's perfect.
  4. Everyone whines about not being able to buy a new, simple, bare bones truck these days, despite the current frontier being exactly that. I've had them as rentals a few times and always enjoyed them. The cabin is spartan and gives the necessities without any fuss. The ride is smooth and handles decently, and the 4.0 gives a healthy kick IMO, with a nice predictable auto trans. It's a much more satisfying drivetrain than in the 3rd gen tacoma, which I've also rented, and I'm a total tacoma fanboy. Bummer they're updating and killing the VQ. I might not be singing the same praise next year.
  5. Interesting. I didn't have to do any drilling for my 02 and bilsteins. Pretty sure theyre the same model. The top brackets/bolts worked perfect with the shock eyelet bushing sleeve except I used a few fender washers to take up the extra space in the bracket. I heard some people just bend the bracket inwards instead. For the bottom mount I didn't use a sleeve. The inner diameter of the bushing is a perfect fit on the mounting stud.
  6. Thanks guys. I should have done a little googling before posting cuz I pulled up the same info about being battery-related shortly after.
  7. Yesterday I drove my 02 to the store and it was running like normal. Then when I went to leave I tried starting the car, and it made a loud click. Similar to a dead battery starter click, but louder like the very first split second of a car starting to crank. Everything went totally dead after that. No lights on the dash, no nothing even with the key turned to on. Basically like the battery had been disconnected (confirmed later because the clock and trip odo had reset). I tried turning the key to various positions a few times but no luck. I looked at the passenger side relay box under the hood and pulled one labeled FL180A ACC IGN and looked at it. Didn't know what to look for as far is it being bad so I put it back. I went to start the car again and everything worked fine, started up without even a stutter. I've started and drove it a few times since then and it's like nothing ever happened. I feel like it may just be a coincidence that pulling the relay actually did anything. But does anyone have an idea of why this would happen in the first place? Thanks!
  8. Sorry if it's obvious, but are you pushing the shift nob INTO the floor before pulling down into 4lo? And yes tranny in neutral, and I do clutch in too just cuz
  9. I'd definitely pay an extra grand for a really nice example of a car I wanted if it's not a stretch financially. As for the manual VQ, I held out for one and am glad I did. It drives real nice. It does burn oil unfortunately, even without the power valve problem, but that's really the only problem it has. I just carry oil with me and check at the gas station and it's no big deal. My neighbor happened to have a VQ manual as well and his was burning oil but still running and driving at 240k miles before he traded up for a 2nd gen Tacoma (6 speed) I think with any VQ R50 it's luck of the draw, but I would go into it expecting to get an oil burner so you're not disappointed. Likely the rebuilt one you saw was run too low for too long and screwed up the motor. One thing I would look for is a black sooty tailpipe. While dirty isn't a definitive tell of an oil burner, I think if you happen across a tailpipe that is clean you've got a better chance of having a good engine. I've noticed one VQ R50 in my neighborhood whose tailpipe is clean as a whistle and I'm really jealous haha.
  10. Huh, I always heard poly was supposed to outlast whatever vehicle they went in. I was planning for rubber on the UCA's anyways. The LCA front bushing I'm not even sure if I'll do yet, but I wanted to see if anyone has tackled it
  11. Haha ok, its probably not too noticeable a difference in ride quality for poly in only two spots
  12. Thanks guys! I'm guessing the energy suspension replacement is poly? Do you notice a difference in ride quality with this one being poly? I like my squishy ride.
  13. So I've found plenty of posts about the strut rod bushings and UCA bushings, but haven't found many mentions about the front LCA FRONT bushings. It looks like they are pressed into the truck frame as opposed to the LCA. Does anyone have a proven method to remove/replace these? Thanks!
  14. While this is up, does anyone know if this is a concern with 5-speed vq35 Pathfinders? They have the direct mechanical linkage from accelerator pedal to throttle body.
  15. Awesome! I actually just saw a white 2-door today on my way home from a trip. How many miles/km's?

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