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Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


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RainGoat last won the day on August 20

RainGoat had the most liked content!

About RainGoat

  • Birthday 02/23/2002

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2002 LE (R50) Original Owner [See About Me below]
  • Place of Residence
    Pacific NW
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Exploration & Overlanding.
    Escaping the city.
    Day trips to the mountains with my kids.

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RainGoat's Achievements

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  1. Way back in ‘03 I fried the dimmer on my ‘02. I replaced it with one from a JY but carried around a little wire with shoes on each end in order to do the bypass @slartbartfast discussed
  2. When convenient, if you could just measure your Duratracs for an actual diameter. Tires often aren’t the size the tire calculators say they should be - manufacturer variance I suppose. Unfortunately, they’re usually smaller - which won’t help me in your case but might if Toyo runs small.
  3. Hmm, that’s disappointing to hear. Definitely means the 30.9” is out. Now I’m worried about the 30.6”. The next largest size is the stock 245/65R17 (29.5”) - it would be nice to go up a little. Did you actually measure your Duratracs to see if their actual size matched their calculated size? I can’t imagine the AWD will like a different diameter tire & we usually have 1-2 hours of mountain highway driving to access the Cascades
  4. Here we go again…. I’m looking to find the largest 17” rim tire that will fit in the stock location underneath, with an OEM hitch. Reportedly the limit is 31”. I know a 265/70R17 (stock 5th Gen T4R tire) most definitely will not fit. I’m getting Toyo AT3s for my Q & these are my options: Wt Tread Dia Width Tire Size Speed/Load 35 13.0 30.9 9.3 P235/75R17 108S/SL 35 13.1 30.6 9.8 245/70R17 110T/SL 42 16.1 30.6 9.8 LT245/70R17 119/116/RE 37 13.2 31.1 10.2 255/70R17 112T/SL 38 13.3 30.6 10.7 265/65R17 116T/XL https://www.toyotires.com/product/open-country-at3/ 1st Choice: P235/75R17 closest to 31”- ?fit? 2nd Choice: 245/70R17 265/65R17 should fit but I’m not sure that the XL load rating won’t mean it’s too stiff. SL & XL are both 4 ply but the XL requires more pressure at Max Load - which, honestly, is counterintuitive to me. I think the 255/70R17 will be too big I think the LT245/70R17 will be too stiff as this truck is usually unloaded Has ANYONE out there tried a P235/75R17?
  5. I believe it’s written up on the NPORA forum in@ferrariowner123 build thread.@micahfelker now owns it.
  6. Thanks for catching that-I keep getting them mixed up. I’ll edit the original so I don’t lead anyone astray.
  7. Taste wise I’m with you on brown but I’ve seen some that ended up looking pretty decent when paired with black. Yeah, the Q is my traveler, solo explorer & will take trailering, hauling & winter duty from the Pathy when I get it back home. I’m not 100% sure the rear is sagging & the ride is absolutely fine, I just REALLY liked the LRs. I’m unlikely to bother changing it anytime soon. Also, while i like a little rake, the Q’s headlight aim doesn’t tolerate it well at all. I’m not the right guy for the powertrain issues. Just sharing my tidbit. There are lots more people on here more knowledgeable about that stuff than me. (Though it is possible I’ve logged the most years & miles on the ATX14A). I LOVE the 6 spoke LE wheels. It turns out they look great on the Q too - I expect that’s where they will stay. My only motivator for manual hubs would be to replace CVs easier. I offroad carefully & I’ve never had a problem with the auto hubs or broken a CV. I definitely won’t change out the LE wheels just to put manual hubs on - especially now that they’ll live on the Q. I’m probably sticking with two sets of Toyota wheels for the Pathy. I think the manual hubs [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] kindly gave me will fit through their hubs - though I haven’t measured.
  8. @TowndawgR50 did a front end swap between a prefacelift (‘96 I think) & an ‘03.
  9. Nice “re”writeup. Looks like your priorities are all in order. If you’re that deep again, consider replacing the knock sensor - it’s down there in the valley. I can’t quite tell if you have a faded light brown or a faded KY0 bright chrome? Unbelievable that you have a cat that will peacefully ride up there - any car ride has always been a loud yowlfest with any cat I’ve owned. Did you mount the LR9447s? I too have the KYB Excel-G & ARB OME HD up front on my Q. I initially tried the LR9449s but while they rode GREAT, they were just too high. I switched to a very used set of ARB OME MD springs in the rear. That leveled the truck but they’re not quite as robust as the LR springs & occasionally look like they may be a bit droopy in the rear. I’m not sure I 100% follow regarding the ATX14A’s behavior but remember the auto hubs need som forward movement to engage. If I’m ever prepping for snow in the am, I always drive it forward a few feet after engaging either the AWD or 4Hi to be sure the hubs are locked. Obviously you can get around this with manual hubs but only Rugged Ridge hubs will fit through the 6 spoke LE wheel hubs.
  10. Cleaned out my rocker panel drains. I’ve been getting sloshing when I drive after the truck has been sitting in the rain. Not surprisingly, it was a pine needle that was the culprit.
  11. Those are some really nice photos!
  12. Alternatively, I left my original line in place (cut off the plug & sensor) & then zip tied to it. Not all the aftermarket O2 sensors have the clips or the clips in the right place.
  13. Yeah, I had to switch out some Britpart NRC9449 for OME MD & while it leveled my truck, the LR springs actually had a slightly better ride than the OME.
  14. FYI, I don’t see the DM. There are really only 2 Amazon links there - both work for me but you can just type the description into Amazon & it should pull them up. I note the Nolethane poly for the sway bar links has a “like new” for only $14. You’ll only really need 4/truck (as opposed to the 8 in a pack) so I’d buy that in a heartbeat. The links I had came with bushings but we liked these better. I also reused the OEM link washers that went next to the bushing because we liked the way it “cupped” the bushing better. In viewing it again I noted it was missing some of the strut rebuild stuff so I pulled that off the Pathy’s notes (hence the ARB struts). There’s some debate regarding KYB &/or other aftermarket strut bearing failures so, personally, I’d buy the OEM strut bearing. I also reused the OEM top hat instead of the aftermarket one. My OEM original still looked to be in good condition & it has that spacer welded onto the top hat - as you’ll see on the pics above. Not having a spacer at all will lead to strut failure - we’ve seen it 2-3 times so far. For OEM parts definitely shop around, one I figure in tax & shipping it always seems to be a different site than last time that has the best deal. Post a pic or two as you go along… ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146S® $210/@4WP/Desert Rat ARB Brake Line Clips $19.70@Desert Rat OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [qx4] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com

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