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colinnwn last won the day on April 29 2021

colinnwn had the most liked content!

About colinnwn

  • Birthday 10/01/1976

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    AC 3" Lift
  • Place of Residence
    Dallas, TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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    Rarely Go Off-Road
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    dallas, tx
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    United States
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    Skydiving, SCUBA diving

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  1. I did mine probably 5 years ago. As I recall it was not orientation dependent, and because it was a sealed bearing I did not try to reuse the old dust cover. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
  2. I tried to get NTB to assemble my strut packages because the AC springs were just bending my compressor but not compressing. The rest of the job I did myself. It's a long story but they were dismissive of me trying to tell them the above. They did it wrong and I had to get someone to redo that. At first they told me they could only do the full install, and it still makes me mad they would have done it wrong and I might not have known. Those power screws are confirmed only on the auto tranny engines. I know most are. Mine happened to be a manual, just in case yours is too - nothing to worry about in that case. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
  3. I put AC 2 inch lift springs on mine many years ago and I got closer to 3. As I remember at that time at least, OME offered a half inch lift, and a 1.5 inch lift. Both were commonly considered softer that AC springs, and usually netted about 0.5 lift over advertised. But that's starting from old tired springs. I bet from factory fresh it's closer to the true rating. Any of those posts you saw did they try to measure ride height to factory specs in the FSM? Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
  4. I'm pretty sure worn tensioners killed my engine at 265k. So just depends on how long you want to run it, and how much money or time you want to spend. All the research I've done is its a much bigger job to do chain and tensioners than anything else on your list. And if I elected to do it, there is no way I wouldn't do the water pump. Most cars with 100k timing belts have the pump as a scheduled service item at the same time. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. Congratulations. Getting a great deal on a used car you can tell has been cared for is always awesome. And even better if it is a former friend/acquaintance you can catch back up with. I've been driving a 2006 Acura MDX I bought for a great price from a friend. I've had lots of frustrations working on it. It was still a good price even with all the irritation. It's a smooth riding car for our long camping trips and lots of creature comforts. But I'm looking forward to the day I get to look for a newer R51 Pathfinder, Infiniti SUV, or maybe a Toyota/Lexus something. But Toyotas have a huge premium too.
  6. I replaced my alternator at least 3 times, one overcharging excursion due to carboned oily brushes, one voltage regulator failure, and once due to the ScanGauge I was diagnosing it with having a voltage sensing circuit failure. Anyway your symptoms sounds like what I experienced. Here is one of mine And here is where I documented the replacement. I hated doing it each time. But honestly if you've done a starter replacement on a VQ, I wouldn't worry about the alternator. Just budget appropriate time. The starter replacement was one of two projects on the car I didn't do myself. I bought the starter, got under the car, and gave up before I got a single nut off. It looked entirely impossible for me to get my arms far enough up in there to do it, or even jigsaw it out and back in if I did get it disconnected, without removing the CV axle at a minimum. Supposedly the shop I took it to managed to do it with some "tricks". I think their "tricks" were child labor.
  7. If it is a belt misalignment you can use a spray bottle to spray a little water on the inside of a running belt. It will instantly go quiet, and then start squeaking again within seconds. Same works for belts that just have a bad rubber mix for that car. My MDX will squeak with Continental belts, but is fine with the $70 Acura belt. [emoji37] Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. You previously mentioned you replaced the belt tensioner. Unless its damaged you don't generally replace the whole thing. There are two idler pulleys that have adjustment tension bolts, one for the AC belt, and the other for the rest of the accessories. Did you replace both pulleys or only one? If you did both pulleys already, a mechanics stethoscope may help you track down the specific item making the sound. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. I think I assumed too much in what the original poster was asking - in that the "sub" he was proposing to use was internally amplified or he knew he had to have a separate amp and just needed to tap into the speaker wires to get a line level output signal for it. As XPLORx4 said, Bose systems are completely "non-standard" to typical car stereo components. Whereas most car speakers and amps for midrange and tweeters are 4 ohms, Bose amp/speaker combinations are generally 1 or 2 ohm, low-wattage, non-bridgeable design. The Bose pre-amp head unit to amp inputs typically run higher voltage than normal - 5 to 6 volts, though I think 5 volts is getting more common in aftermarket too. But for some reason Bose amps don't generally like to be driven by an aftermarket stereo even with a high volt pre-amp. I think it is an impedance mismatch, you get bad turn on thump, and sound clipping. Though I haven't ever researched those measurements. It's easier if adding an aftermarket headunit to use an adjustable line level converter to input to the Bose amps, and adjust it till it sounds good. Subs happen to run 2 ohms generally, but need higher wattage than midrange speakers, to drive their large voice coils for the thump. To run subs you need either a sub specific single channel high wattage amp, or a 2 to 1 channel bridgeable amp that can drive the lower impedance. So using a line level converter off the rear Bose speakers, to get an input to the sub amp input is still valid. But you can't run an aftermarket sub directly off of a Bose amp in any way. You need to budget for a line level converter, sub amp, and sub - or- a line level converter and internally amplified sub box. You could maybe do this with $50 using garage sale or Craigslist components, but you won't do it with new components.
  10. Land rover coils for the rear. There are several options for height and spring rate. Front I think only OME and AC. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. I haven't looked at the back of the rear speakers, but there is no reason they should have output terminals. You can splice into the circuit anywhere between the amp output and the speaker inputs. If you do this, don't use a true "t-tap" with the metal saddle that slices the insulation. They work terribly for speakers. There are a couple ways to do it, but my favorite way is to cut the wire and use a heat shrink butt splice wire connector. As you are crimping it in place, on one side run another pigtail wire out of it to act as a tap. Another way is if you want to remove the speakers, and where the voice coil is wired and soldered, to go into the harness connector, you could put a dab more solder on, and solder on the pigtail there. But if you aren't an experienced solderer this way is more trouble than its worth. Connect that pigtail to a line output converter before you wire it into your new amp for the sub. Line output converters are a dime a dozen. Here is one. I've never used this particular one before. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-two-channel-line-output-converter-black/1265702.p?skuId=1265702
  12. I have the 2001 service manual and I looked this up about a month ago by mistake because the person was on the MDX forum not this one. Won't be able to reverify till tomorrow. I think the service manual said remove AC compressor, and you replace the whole clutch assembly , not the bearing only. Though doesn't mean that's impossible just because it isn't in service manual. Possibly if you removed the fan and radiator you could do it on car. I don't remember seeing anything other than frontal access for the puller and one step that required a hammer. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. Are you sure it's the AC compressor and not one of the idler pulleys or belt? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. I forgot to go back to this when I was at a bigger computer. On the tweeter you should see a little capacitor to provide bandwidth filtering. Check to see if it looks bulged or damaged. It is very common for them to dry out and blow with age . It could be just replacing that. If the capacitor looks fine, then you are probably right the tweeter cone is blown. But I'm surprised you wouldn't hear static or distortion rather than nothing . Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. The unfortunate thing that no one is going to want to tell you, is without repairing the transmission it probably isn't worth much. I just did the KBB value on your car, and for a private party sale (with a good transmission) and in "excellent" shape the value is $2,800. I think you'd be super lucky to find someone willing to pay you $1,000 for it with the transmission problems. KBB values tend to be on the higher side of what you can actually get without spending a lot of time and marketing of the car. You'll also probably be hampered by the fact that anyone who wants these older vehicles are probably going to want 4wd too. Personally I'd try to get a real transmission repair quote while it is still driveable, and before it would have to be trailered somewhere. Then decide if that quote is worth it to you to keep the vehicle absent any residual value it has now. The vehicle is a sunk cost to you at this point. You wouldn't want to pay more for a repair than you could reasonably get for the car in its repaired state, in case you needed to sell it. But the value in its current state isn't really a factor.

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