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Dbot

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Dbot last won the day on June 18

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 4x4 Auto LE (gold color) + 2002 4x4 Auto LE (Bronzed gray)
  • Place of Residence
    Missouri
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Usa
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Finding new trails on Google Earth, wheeling said trails. mountain biking

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  1. I say YAY. A mesh grill would make the front end pop some more for less effort but your design would be unique and look just as good if not better if you don't mind the work. A guy did this grill design to his Xterra and it turned out great. Blacked out edges of headlights look great also.
  2. Bronzed Gray KXO paint. I see pictures of others with that paint in good condition and I think it's one of the best colors. But mine and the few around me in my neck of the woods all have damaged clearcoat. They only used the paint for 2001 and 2002 so you're probably not going to find a donor in the junkyard. I found a part out locally. Drove an hour to go see it. It's clearcoat was toast just like mine.
  3. Are the Homelink buttons on the mirror always active even without a key or do they require some sort of ACC/ON position to function? Pulled an OEM Gentex mirror from a r51 for the wife's xterra and wanted to find out here before potentially any thieves find out. Every once in a while, the X gets left unlocked by mistake which would either be bad or very bad depending if somebody got access to the garage.
  4. Well since the host of the site had a failure a few days ago, I'll go ahead and toss in a recap to the build from May 2021 to present since some of my build posts are gone. 2001 SE Grille: Kind of a rare find since the Bronzed Gray paint only existed in 2001 and 2002. Found it listed in a local part out. Sadly the part out had worse paint on the hood and fenders than mine but I digress. Powerstop z36 front brake kit. Local guy had a wrecked R50 that I was buying parts from. He had these new in box and wanted me to take/buy them. I didn't need brakes so I was like "uh, I can do $20" and he handed them over. For daily driving and wheeling they don't feel any different than my stock discs and pads but whatevs. Poly steering rack bushings form 4x4parts.com I rebuilt the front end with new cv axles, inner+outer tie rods, ball joints, inner+outer bearings, and rack bushings trying to find a popping noise that ended up being a control arm bushing. They don't appear to drive or feel special but I think polyurethane is supposed to be more resilient to oil than rubber so that's comforting to know while I procrastinate on replacing leaky valve covers. Missing link Made this from 1.5" x 1.5" 1/8" steel square tubing. 23 7/8" long. Ends chopped at 45 degrees. Couldn't feel any difference driving or wheeling. This later got modified for a skid plate a few months later. Skidplate. Had some trails at the offroad park that couldn't be finished because I lacked armor. After getting scammed on cheap rock sliders and Lokka taking 9 months to ship my part, my wife was very leery about me spending big bucks on car parts so I took matters into my own inexperienced hands to make my own skidplates. 3/16 thick 24x48 steel was "only" $96 so I started. I first modified the missing link by adding a 1" spacer from square tubing so the plate steel would clear the front diff. I measured and cut out the mid skid and made notches for the rear control arm bolts. I turned a lot of drill bits into smoke so drilling this took forever. I cut the front skid and notched it with an angle grinder. Apparently the plate steel had a wave to it and made it difficult to notch with the angle grinder without puncturing through the back side. Welded the creases and cleaned up the mill scale and welds after several hours Painted it with flat black rust converter for easy touch ups. Found some bolts at the hardware store. Got some washers for rocks to deflect off. Mounted it up. Just enough clearance between plate and diff Took it to the offroad park and hit the trails I had to turn around on last time. Got some scars to test it out. I think it's a winner. Whenever time allows, I'll see about making a rear skid. So that's a wrap on the build as it sits now.
  5. My memory is so fuzzy, that it's very possible I'm wrong, but I thought you could access the bolts the hold the lower oil pan on the vg33 like you can with a vq35. Might be tricky for a hand grab if you have thick wrists but magnets and whatnot should be able to grab the missing piece if it's in the upper oil pan. You'd have to make sure you don't warp or gouge the lower oil pan during removal or you're gonna have to get real serious with the rtv or order a new pan.
  6. I’ve been hanging around r50 forums and groups since I got mine in 2019. Haven’t really seen much chatter about reliability issues with the atx14a transfer case. Like any part, there’s gonna be somebody with a failure here and there but the atx14a isn’t even going to be in the top 15 issues for this platform. I have 237k miles in the clock and mine has held up to the abuse just fine. Just change the fluid at the intervals the manual specifies and if you submerged it in water or mud, just clean underneath really well so wire harnesses stay clean. In other words, don’t let the transfer case hold you back unless it acts up on a test drive
  7. This is brilliant! I’ll definitely be trying this the first chance I get. Thanks!
  8. What I'm working with: 2002 4x4 Lifted 1 year ago Reused struts and strut hats 1 yo OEM strut bearings 1 yo AC coils 1 yo Camber adjust bolts 1 yo Inner tie rods 1 yo outer tie rods 1 yo steering rack bushings 1 yo ball joints Wheeled all summer on those fresh components and everything was great. My last wheeling sesh was August. Early 2021, I developed a popping/crunching sensation in the steering. I assumed it was the ball joint so I replaced both ball joints. The issue remained unchanged. For troubleshooting, I set the front end on jack stands and prompted the noise by having somebody turn the steering wheel. Best judgements of sound and feel by hand led me to the tie rods. Struts didn't have much of a output on feel or sound, nor did cv axles or ball joints. This led me to do the following: After replacing ball joints (which were actually still good btw) I replaced the following this month: CV axles Wheel bearings (inner and outer) and both sets of races Inner tie rods Outer tie rods seemed really solid, almost like new and the grease boot didn't see compromised so i reused them. I took it to the shop for an alignment. The same guy that aligned it last summer aligned it again and said the alignment procedure was smooth and typical. After getting it from the shop, Everything feels straight and aligned but the popping/crunching is still there. I can create this by low speed tight turns such as cutting the wheel to pull into a parking spot or follow a drive thru path. It seems that the low speed + hand over hand turning of the steering wheel causes this. This does not occur if you drive straight or if say you cut the wheel for a slow turn and hold it steady at an angle. It's the action of turning the steering wheel that causes it. What's weird is this occurred months after I last wheeled it. The only abnormal abuse my front end takes is that there is a 3" step transitioning from my driveway to my street. This transition is always taken at turned angle whether backing out or pulling in. (not good for steering components). My street is a main street so occasionally my approach home from the speedy street is a bit hot which causes strut top out with those old struts on new AC coils. I guess i'm leaning toward aiming the parts cannon at the strut bearings and strut hats. Anyone have any thoughts on this before I drop another $100+ on parts and labor?
  9. He has a first person camera angle video of him driving a second gen Xterra and there is a written article either by him or his sidekick Roman that discusses the first gen Xterra. It’s very apparent that he doesn’t know much about either one to start with and he picks up on the basics about each one while doing a quick bit of research for his content. Basically mocks the name a bit for being a try hard name, talks about how mundane vibes are that it gives off. Talks about it it’s crude suspension, talks about skid plates, body on frame design and simplicity. It then clicks in his mind this is the stuff that matters and he talks about it in a “you know what, this is a cool vehicle hidden in a plastic panel disguise” kind of way ?. I don’t think he cares much for Nissan suvs for whatever reason
  10. It’s not making any noise that I’m aware of. As far as how long I want it to last? Beyond 300k. It’s more a pride thing than a money thing with this one. Lots of sweat and blood in the rig. If we all go by noise instead of mileage, I’ll leave the chains alone. As for the water pump, I suppose I could swap that when I’m behind the radiator for the alternator since you don’t actually have to remove the timing cover to access the pump.
  11. 2002 Pathfinder 235,xxx miles (acquired by me at 206,xxx) Main maintenance items: Replace leaky valve covers replace alternator Secondary maintenance items: Spark plugs Pcv valve intake gaskets pcv hose Valve cover breather hose serpentine belts I’ll be doing those items within a few weeks The two items I’m wondering are: Should I take this opportunity to replace the timing chains, and tensioners? I can’t find anything that specifies a mileage to replace that. Some say those last forever but the severed timing chain on my 2001 r50 says otherwise. if there’s an interval that I’m missing somewhere that says 100/200/250k miles, I think I should do it now while valve covers are off. the second question is how long does the water pump last? I can replace it with the timing chain cover on or off. Anyone know an interval for water pumps?
  12. For what it’s worth, you can swap seat fabric/leather between passenger and drivers seat. Just need hog rings, hog ring pliers and a box cutter. Looks oem if you take your time
  13. Anecdotally I purchased one autozone cv axle over the summer (boot split a month after lifting hence my replacement). Autozone axle looked really solid and beefy. The same day I installed it, I drove 45 minutes to a trail via highway. Wheeled for 20 minutes then hit a mud hole with headlight deep water. Immediately after coming out of the water, I could hear the wet cv boot squeaking with each rotation. It popped off and kinked where it was lopsided and rubbed the control arm every rotation. Not sure how mud water did this but whatever. I bent it back and put it close to how it originally was. I haven’t done any true wheeling since then but I’ve done thousands of road miles and a few hundred snow 4x4 road miles. Cv axle is still intact despite a compromised boot.
  14. Rode stock suspension for one year without bad boots. Then lifted with ac coils and warn hubs. Drove one month and split a boot. Half month later the other boot split.
  15. Hi r51 gang, I’m familiar and active with the r50 platform but I’m pretty new to the post 2005 stuff. I’m probably going several hours out of town to the big city for another attempt to get a worthy r51. One of the lowest mileage r51s I see is an s model. While I don’t need LE stuff, SE is the trim package Id like to own. Does anyone know what items I can swap over from a LE or SE (power seats, heated seats, fog lights etc) via my local junkyard or eBay? I’m hoping some of the stuff is prewired and plug and play. I got the idea for this question because my dad has had great luck swapping LT trim components to his ls trim Chevy. Everything was prewired and compatible

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