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EricCR

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EricCR last won the day on June 2

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    In progress...
  • Place of Residence
    Costa Rica
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2003

Profile Information

  • Location
    Costa Rica
  • Country
    Costa Rica

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  1. I took the stock running boards off to refinish them and I was surprised about how much they weight. And they're aluminum. Same as for the cargo cover. The whole thing weights an awful lot. I'm sure that's a quality part but is it really necessary? No wonder why R50's are such cetaceans.
  2. OME 2922 will give you about 1" of lift (considering a likely sagging rear). LR 9447 give you 3"-4" over the saggy stock springs. That could be a factor to consider if you don't want to touch the front and don't want tons or rake
  3. Yeah, I hate those cardboard door cards. They always develop tears around the plastic clips. The less often you remove your door trim, the better. I will do the passenger side soon since now that I have a new regulator+motor on the driver's side, it's clear that the other one is on its way out.
  4. Lol. I thought I was the only one dumbfounded by Nissan's decision to close all doors when turning the key to open the hatch. That's a real head scratcher right there.
  5. Looks more like an LE. Congrats! It has the best OEM wheels to boot.
  6. So, back at this. Today I tested the AC and went through my points 1 and 2 above. I disconnected the cabin and intake air temp sensors. The blend door actuator was still randomly moving to let hot air pass through. So as I suspected, number 3 was the winner. With the actuator unplugged, the issue is gone. Of course I also basically removed my heater function (it probably still sends hot air to the feet vents, not sure). I saw the actuator in action while the issue occurred and it looks to me that the HVAC panel is the culprit. The actuator and its rod appear to move freely and do the full range of motion. I will buy a junkyard HVAC panel at some point to test my theory. I do have a doubt, though. Maybe someone here knows: In R50s is hot engine coolant supposed to be circulating through the heater core at all times, even with cold AC in full blast? I have a BMW E39 and it has a heater valve in the engine bay, which prevents hot coolant from going to the heater core unless you activate the heater. I ask because even if the blend door actuator is letting air pass through the heater core, the core should be at ambient temp, not hot because all settings and temp are set to cool. FYI, it's easier to unplug the actuator if you remove the glovebox. Here you can see the intake air temp sensor (foreground, white connector) and the actuator (background, black, dusty box with unplugged white connector):
  7. Ok, so I just replaced the regulator today. As easy as they come. There are several videos on YouTube on how to remove the door card and even the regulator itself, so I don't go into much detail here. However, I am going to give you a few tips to make the replacement easier. You will need to move your window so that the two screws that hold the glass in place are reachable (yellow). If your old motor or regulator is shot and you can't move the window, you might have to cut the steel cables while holding the glass. There are 7 other 10mm screws that hold the regulator and motor assembly in place, but don't remove them just yet. I chose to completely remove the glass from the door since I wanted to really scrub the runners but I've seen people simply duct taping the window to the door frame so it doesn't fall. If you end up removing it, go to the outside of the car and very carefully lift it while gently pulling it towards you. Once it's almost all the way up, tilt it about 45 degrees so that the back comes out of the runner (it should happen with almost no effort so don't force it). Then, slide the glass towards the back to clear this part of the regulator, otherwise the plastic tabs on the window will get stuck under it: Now, with the glass safely off the door or taped out of the way, remove the 7 screws shown in the first pic. You can technically leave the top left screw there and just loosen it since it slides out of that hole, but just remember that you will still need it for the new regulator. When unplugging the motor from the wiring harness, try to save the clips that hold the plug in its position. Use needle nose pliers or something similar to compress the tabs while pushing out at the same time. My TYC regulator had a new clip for the little bit of pigtail coming out of the motor, but check your new one first and try to take it off undamaged if you can. Use a flathead to slide the clip out of the old plug. That's about it. Just put everything back together in the reverse order and test the regulator before reattaching the door card. I 100% recommend that TYC regulator I bought. Fitment was identical and seems like a quality part. The motor is a quiet as the stock one and seems to have good torque. The window slides effortlessly now.
  8. I have a mess here at home with contractors running around so the garage is for now sort of a storage room and my Pathy is sitting outside. I have yet to replace the regulator but I'll surely document the process and I'll post pictures of the now gone brushes. Most likely next week I'll tackle this.
  9. Cars & Bids is trying to compete with BAT and the target market and therefore selling prices end up being similar, which is to say, take them with a grain of salt.
  10. I test drove a 2000 4Runner when I was looking for my Pathy and that was my exact impression. Slow, harsh ride, not as well optioned, worse interior plastics.
  11. It's in great shape but not amazing. Mine was in better shape with 150k+ miles on it (albeit it's an SE, not an LE). The state of that roof's paint is concerning. It looks to be down to bare metal in some parts:
  12. Interesting. I think I heard about those but wasn't lucky finding any pics installed. I suppose that just gives me back the inch that I lost at the back and do a better job at not sagging. They aren't stupidly expensive either so that's great. Thank you!
  13. Similar question to the above: When unloaded, my stock 2003 Pathy sits very close to the expected height from ground to wheel arch. It's right on the mark up front and less than an inch shorter at the back, however, even with just one person on the back seat or light cargo, it sags a lot so it's clear that the rear springs are tired. I read most of this thread and saw the photos people uploaded and the shortest LR springs will apparently add between 3" or 4" to the rear, but since the front is fine and I don't plan to lift it, that will leave me with too much rake. I don't love the idea of cutting springs so has anyone tried something else? I just want perhaps 2" more at the back and slightly stiffer springs to minimize sagging.
  14. Yeah, the cloth seats struck me as weird. The few LE's I saw before buying my SE had their leather seats completely destroyed so perhaps the PO replaced them. Getting upset at RCR for their "reviews" is like watching Top Gear expecting serious automotive journalism. It's a comedy YouTube channel. Whether it's funny or interesting to some of us and not others, well, that's a matter of having different tastes. He gives abstract reviews and deals more with the surreal aspect of driving a car. There are plenty of other YT channels and established car shows that talk about hp, 0-60 and off road capabilities. His recent Olds Hurst video was great IMO.
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