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meatwad

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meatwad last won the day on January 5

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    99 Pathfinder
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    1999

Profile Information

  • Location
    BC
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. Fixed! Turns out I’m just stupid. Slartibartfast had the correct solution with the RCA plugs. I was confused because the stereo I set up before did not use them (despite having a factory amp) and they are not colour coordinated to the proper female ports on the headunit. I plugged them into the RL, FL, RR, and RL ports then used the balance/fader while playing music to determine which plug corresponds with which port since it isn’t labelled. Often times the correct solution is the most simple or easiest overlooked… Thank you Slarti!
  2. Update: I spliced the amp turn on wire (blue + white) in with the red ACC wire to ensure power is being delivered to the amp. I can hear a slight pop and a continuous quiet hum while touching the wires together so I’m assuming the amp is receiving power. Why it’s not putting out sound is beyond me
  3. Hi all, I have installed an aftermarket headunit (Atoto F7) in my 1999 LE with Bose factory amp using Scosche harness # NN07B. This harness is supposedly specifically for factory amplified Nissan systems. The wiring was fairly straightforward and the unit gets power, but no audio is delivered to the speakers. I suspect this is an amp issue (not powering on?) but I’m completely lost on how to go about fixing it. Also, there are two separate wires for ground on the Scosche harness. There is a chassis ground (black) and amp ground (black + white). I have tried connecting each of these independently to the ground wire (black) from the headunit and still, power but no sound. I must be missing something. I’m admittedly a complete noob when it comes to car audio so any advice would help. Thank you
  4. Update: I successfully brought home the RTT using the stock crossbars. It is worth not that it was a lightweight hardshell RTT weighing 134 lbs. This probably helped distribute the weight a bit better than a soft-shell and put less stress on the bars due to better aerodynamics. Whether a soft-shell would have had any actual issues in transport is anyone’s guess. I got it up to 115 km/h on the highway and sustained 100+ for most of the 1 hour drive home. I also sat in the tent once I got home and there was zero perceived sketchiness. All that said, I am not going to continue using the pair of stock crossbars. In a pinch it’s nice to know that they will likely be okay, but for any hard wheeling or longterm use I can imagine some issues arising. I’ll either be acquiring a second set of factory bars or having some custom mounts + bars fabbed up using this video as a guide:
  5. I’m sure that would be doable as the rails on the SE rack seem to distribute the load a lot better than the track/feet system on ours. If I had access to an SE rack I’d probably go that route. The other option I’m looking at is going custom fab on some mounts and crossbars and praying they’ll hold
  6. Hi all, I’ve heard some conflicting information in regard to mounting RTTs to our factory crossbars. I have a 99.5 LE with the normal roof tracks and crossbars. I’m wondering if this will work with a 134lb RTT (even just to transport it 10 mins home after purchasing). I’ve heard some people have claimed to regularly carry 200+ dynamic lbs up there and others are vehemently against anything over 100. I’m too stubborn to pay $1000 CAD for a Thule or Yakima system so I’m seeking other options. I’ve also heard of people adding a second set of factory crossbars to better distribute the weight. Does anyone have any personal experience running high weight on the factory bars? Thank you!!
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