Jotegir

The video provided by 208Tyler should cover the springs themselves. He says the part names and then putting the part name into google should get you the rest of the way. I am personally running OME 2928 HD springs in the front and Landrover LR 9447 in the rear. I also replaced the following when I did my lift: - strut bearing (NISSAN OEM) - strut bellows (KYB) - strut (KYB) - rear shock - I am running KYB but others run OME, or modified Bilstein's for more travel. - rear bumpstop - I had to order these from Australian e-bay for the r50 Terrano because they're discontinued everywhere in North America. Many people do not replace them or run some other kind of replacement. - there are also rubber strut gaskets which when the old strut are removed are almost always shot. They're meant to stop water ingress between the wheel arch and the engine bay. I replaced mine with gasket maker and have had no issues doing so for several years. I reused my strut spring seats because they were in good shape, but they're often starting to rust out and get lousy for many folks. They are available online but not on rockauto. Otherwise, when doing your lift you want to replace any bushing/joint which might be past it's prime, which can include: - upper rear control arm - lower rear control arm - front control arm front and rear - front ball joint - inner/outer tie rods I'd also recommend checking your strut tower brace area for rust when you pull the struts. My vehicle is Vernon/Kelowna/Kamloops only, not a known area for rust, and I had some developing in there I took the time to get on top of before it got bad. If you have an R50 that spent its whole life on the Island you're likely fine, but it's still good to check and get on top of. Good luck!

Mine were hard to turn and I cleaned them up in the ultrasonic cleaner and applied lots of anti seize, easy to turn now. Worth a try!

Get on the facebook group, Taylor Padawan makes + sells 4" SFD kits, he's doing a group order right now, I think he is at 9 or 10 and will cut off monday for deposits. He's done between 35-50 so far I think. People seem to like them

I have heard of some people running maxima injectors with 12 holes rather than our 4 or something on the facebook group. Haven't heard anything about fuel pumps, our intake is different than a lot of other vq's intakes so I haven't heard of a compatible plenum spacer either.

that's about the max you can go without running into strut spacing issues, you might still need wheel spacers as is but unlikely.

Hey no problem! I am running the OME Heavy Duty front springs. I think they are OME 2928. I wouldn't recommend the medium or light duty, you won't get as much lift and will lose more height when the vehicle is loaded. The KYB struts are just the ""excel-g" fairly basic strut for the vehicle. It's what most people run. OME has/had more expensive struts available with a bit more suspension stroke on them, but as far as we can tell they are currently discontinued/COVID restricted. When they were available user reviews were positive. OEM was not a typo! Aftermarket strut bearings are a known failure point on these vehicles - search the forum and you'll find several examples of them all going on lifted examples. One of mine gave up the ghost after less than 1000 KM post lift! Took the strut with it too - OEM bearings are quite a bit more expensive, but a lot less expensive than your time or someone else's time is worth for a stupid part failure. I do not have experience with the OME rear springs because I, like many others, run land rover springs.

OME's website sucks ass but I can assure you their lifts are good (and real!) A lot of us run the OME heavy duty springs out front, often paired with KYB struts and OEM strut bearings. More commonly you'll now see landrover springs out back because they're largely considered both superior and cheaper to most of the other offerings out there. Most of us did our lifts ourselves and assembled the parts collections on our own (and with the forum's help of course!) as there weren't/aren't really aftermarket "kits" available per se. Can't comment on BDS stuff.

When the 4 speeds start losing reverse it usually is a sign of a failing transmission and not a solenoid like people told you a few years ago. It is very common on these for reverse to go and then some time later the rest. The reason it works when the oil is cold is that there's enough material there to catch the reverse gear and engage on the bits of metal flakes, but not once the fluid has reached temperature and is rather thin.

rear main seal!

Common places on these are valve cover gaskets and oil coolers for leaks, not to mention RMS. It might just be burning it though, that is very common too. Mine does not leak at all but goes through quite a bit of oil.

Basic tools will get the job done but it is very, very unlikely to be the PCV valve. The 3.5 is well known for consuming oil and I'm sorry to say I've never heard of a PCV valve replacement solving the issue.

Those must be the Tracktiv ones. A few folks on facebook are running them if so.

I'd love to but I think it'll be a while before I make it down into the states again. Great channel by the way, been following the build since you started posting.

Great progress, those sliders look great too. Where are those seat covers from? I don't usually see them fitting quite that nice.

Thanks for the tips Slar! I was actually going to @ you and RainGoat in the original post as two of the people I recall giving great advice in the old thread, but the forum really didn't like that feature yesterday for some reason. I should have said, when I "checked" the CV, I put in a totally different one and it still occurs. I'll have to get the wheels spinning with the wheels in the air at some point, I haven't done a full investigation as snow is just on its way out up here. I do have the automatic transfer case! If the dash lights are to be believed (which I'll confirm in the "investigation" step), the front left engages and puts power down but the front right does not, at least for a minute or two until underway. Once the front right engages, it doesn't go away at stops or if you start and stop the vehicle with it engaged. Sounds like I'll have to do a bit of digging. I also forgot to mention in my writeup, when I did the initial power valve screws and associated work, I took every old liquid out of the car and put new liquid + filters in to get a good baseline going forward. Maybe I'll check the transfer case fluid anyway to see if there's anything supremely alarming like metal shavings or something. It isn't expensive. Faded "Sunlit Sand Metallic"! I kind of don't love it. I much prefer the faded version to what it allegedly was when new. I really don't like BROWN cars. The vaguely off-chrome it is right now is fine, I have no issue with it. I have LR9447s mounted, yeah. I think they're quite nice as far as ride quality goes. It's maybe about an inch taller out back? Not as much of an imbalance as some of the others posted here. I think when the tent goes on it'll sit closer to level. I went for the 7's as I figured I wouldn't need the extra spring rate for now. Droopy in the rear sounds like the opposite of everyone else's problem! If the OME MD rear ride quality is nice, maybe a cut down spacer out back to get your second R50 closer to level? As I understand its your "lighter duty" one, right? Thanks for the tip RE the ATX14A. As I said above, I think a bit more investigation is in order before calling this one. As far as I know, it could just be the dash light that's on the fritz at the moment. I've considered manual hubs, but I really like the look of the stock 03' and 04' LE wheels and am somewhat cautious of the hubs that fit them.