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Everything posted by RainGoat

  1. Way back in ‘03 I fried the dimmer on my ‘02. I replaced it with one from a JY but carried around a little wire with shoes on each end in order to do the bypass @slartbartfast discussed
  2. When convenient, if you could just measure your Duratracs for an actual diameter. Tires often aren’t the size the tire calculators say they should be - manufacturer variance I suppose. Unfortunately, they’re usually smaller - which won’t help me in your case but might if Toyo runs small.
  3. Hmm, that’s disappointing to hear. Definitely means the 30.9” is out. Now I’m worried about the 30.6”. The next largest size is the stock 245/65R17 (29.5”) - it would be nice to go up a little. Did you actually measure your Duratracs to see if their actual size matched their calculated size? I can’t imagine the AWD will like a different diameter tire & we usually have 1-2 hours of mountain highway driving to access the Cascades
  4. Here we go again…. I’m looking to find the largest 17” rim tire that will fit in the stock location underneath, with an OEM hitch. Reportedly the limit is 31”. I know a 265/70R17 (stock 5th Gen T4R tire) most definitely will not fit. I’m getting Toyo AT3s for my Q & these are my options: Wt Tread Dia Width Tire Size Speed/Load 35 13.0 30.9 9.3 P235/75R17 108S/SL 35 13.1 30.6 9.8 245/70R17 110T/SL 42 16.1 30.6 9.8 LT245/70R17 119/116/RE 37 13.2 31.1 10.2 255/70R17 112T/SL 38 13.3 30.6 10.7 265/65R17 116T/XL https://www.toyotires.com/product/open-country-at3/ 1st Choice: P235/75R17 closest to 31”- ?fit? 2nd Choice: 245/70R17 265/65R17 should fit but I’m not sure that the XL load rating won’t mean it’s too stiff. SL & XL are both 4 ply but the XL requires more pressure at Max Load - which, honestly, is counterintuitive to me. I think the 255/70R17 will be too big I think the LT245/70R17 will be too stiff as this truck is usually unloaded Has ANYONE out there tried a P235/75R17?
  5. I believe it’s written up on the NPORA forum in@ferrariowner123 build thread.@micahfelker now owns it.
  6. Thanks for catching that-I keep getting them mixed up. I’ll edit the original so I don’t lead anyone astray.
  7. Taste wise I’m with you on brown but I’ve seen some that ended up looking pretty decent when paired with black. Yeah, the Q is my traveler, solo explorer & will take trailering, hauling & winter duty from the Pathy when I get it back home. I’m not 100% sure the rear is sagging & the ride is absolutely fine, I just REALLY liked the LRs. I’m unlikely to bother changing it anytime soon. Also, while i like a little rake, the Q’s headlight aim doesn’t tolerate it well at all. I’m not the right guy for the powertrain issues. Just sharing my tidbit. There are lots more people on here more knowledgeable about that stuff than me. (Though it is possible I’ve logged the most years & miles on the ATX14A). I LOVE the 6 spoke LE wheels. It turns out they look great on the Q too - I expect that’s where they will stay. My only motivator for manual hubs would be to replace CVs easier. I offroad carefully & I’ve never had a problem with the auto hubs or broken a CV. I definitely won’t change out the LE wheels just to put manual hubs on - especially now that they’ll live on the Q. I’m probably sticking with two sets of Toyota wheels for the Pathy. I think the manual hubs [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] kindly gave me will fit through their hubs - though I haven’t measured.
  8. @TowndawgR50 did a front end swap between a prefacelift (‘96 I think) & an ‘03.
  9. Nice “re”writeup. Looks like your priorities are all in order. If you’re that deep again, consider replacing the knock sensor - it’s down there in the valley. I can’t quite tell if you have a faded light brown or a faded KY0 bright chrome? Unbelievable that you have a cat that will peacefully ride up there - any car ride has always been a loud yowlfest with any cat I’ve owned. Did you mount the LR9447s? I too have the KYB Excel-G & ARB OME HD up front on my Q. I initially tried the LR9449s but while they rode GREAT, they were just too high. I switched to a very used set of ARB OME MD springs in the rear. That leveled the truck but they’re not quite as robust as the LR springs & occasionally look like they may be a bit droopy in the rear. I’m not sure I 100% follow regarding the ATX14A’s behavior but remember the auto hubs need som forward movement to engage. If I’m ever prepping for snow in the am, I always drive it forward a few feet after engaging either the AWD or 4Hi to be sure the hubs are locked. Obviously you can get around this with manual hubs but only Rugged Ridge hubs will fit through the 6 spoke LE wheel hubs.
  10. Cleaned out my rocker panel drains. I’ve been getting sloshing when I drive after the truck has been sitting in the rain. Not surprisingly, it was a pine needle that was the culprit.
  11. Those are some really nice photos!
  12. Alternatively, I left my original line in place (cut off the plug & sensor) & then zip tied to it. Not all the aftermarket O2 sensors have the clips or the clips in the right place.
  13. Yeah, I had to switch out some Britpart NRC9449 for OME MD & while it leveled my truck, the LR springs actually had a slightly better ride than the OME.
  14. FYI, I don’t see the DM. There are really only 2 Amazon links there - both work for me but you can just type the description into Amazon & it should pull them up. I note the Nolethane poly for the sway bar links has a “like new” for only $14. You’ll only really need 4/truck (as opposed to the 8 in a pack) so I’d buy that in a heartbeat. The links I had came with bushings but we liked these better. I also reused the OEM link washers that went next to the bushing because we liked the way it “cupped” the bushing better. In viewing it again I noted it was missing some of the strut rebuild stuff so I pulled that off the Pathy’s notes (hence the ARB struts). There’s some debate regarding KYB &/or other aftermarket strut bearing failures so, personally, I’d buy the OEM strut bearing. I also reused the OEM top hat instead of the aftermarket one. My OEM original still looked to be in good condition & it has that spacer welded onto the top hat - as you’ll see on the pics above. Not having a spacer at all will lead to strut failure - we’ve seen it 2-3 times so far. For OEM parts definitely shop around, one I figure in tax & shipping it always seems to be a different site than last time that has the best deal. Post a pic or two as you go along… ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146S® $210/@4WP/Desert Rat ARB Brake Line Clips $19.70@Desert Rat OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [qx4] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com
  15. Actually, I guess I have my notes right here: SUSPENSION FRONT: KYB Excel-G Strut, Front Left, 4WD [335033] $57.79 KYB Excel-G Strut, Front Right, 4WD [335032] $57.79 KYB Strut Bellow [sB129] $21.60($10.80 x2) Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Rear 4WD [K80435] $34.84($17.42x2) Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Front [K90659] $34.64($17.32x2) Both links have zerts & are greasable (2 in front, 1 in rear) $ 263.50($ -$10.33 5% Discount+$42.99s+$24.18t)@RockAuto Pathfinder Front Center Sway Bar Bushing Kit [sPPUPFCSBB] $22.50 Unable to get ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146[emoji2400] $210 N146S out of stock nationally - 2 arriving 9/10/21 ARB Brake Line Clips $19.70@Desert Rat Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit $20.36($18.49+$1.87) 8/5/12 Adjustable to +/- 1.75*Camber REAR: Reconditioned 2002 Pathfinder LE Rear Trailing arms & panhard Complete Split Design Trailing Arm Bushing Kit [sPACTRBSH96PFWBCOM] $222.00 Pathfinder Rear Pan Hard Rod Bushings [sPPER50PHRBUSH] + Pan Hard Rod Bolt Kit which replaces Factory Bolt (+$7)$72.00 Pathfinder Front Center Sway Bar Bushing Kit [sPPUPFCSBB] $22.50 Pathfinder Rear Center Sway Bar Bushings [sPAC96CSBBUSH] $19.50 $410.63($351+$59.63s)@Automotive Customizers(AC), 4x4Parts Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Rear 4WD [K80435] $34.84($17.42x2) Nolethane REV006.0028 Black Sway Bar Link Bushing (Front) $23.41+t ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] 0.5" Lift $167@Desert Rat Nissan Seat-Rubber, Front Spring [540340W020] $12.05x4 Nissan Seat-Rubber, Front Spring [540340W010] $10.46x4 Ordered 8, received 3(2x540340W020 & 1 540340W010 Pathfinder Rear Center Sway Bar Bushings [sPAC96CSBBUSH] $19.50 $410.63($351+$59.63s)@Automotive Customizers(AC), 4x4Parts If you can replace the front A-Arm bushings with poly (from AC), it will have a very nice effect; however, @‘02_Pathy & [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] both report it’s a bitch - especially to remove the old ones. Consequently, I own the bushings but haven’t gotten around to it yet (that’s a common theme for me). Removing the rear trailing arm & panhard bushings is also a bear. I reconditioned my Pathy ones for the Q. I was able to get a shop guy to do it off the books after hours, otherwise it was prohibitively expensive.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] pressed in my panhard bushings. The split bushings from AC were easy as pie to install. Oh, definitely buy the bolts - removing your rear trailing arms inevitably requires cutting some & is a notably difficult job. Again, I was fortunate to have the experience & skill of [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] to remove mine on both trucks - it is not a job I could have realistically done myself. Also, if you assemble the front springs yourself, get the new style compressor - they’re far easier & safer to use & even a newbie can do it safely (me). (This is just an example I pulled off Amazon: 8MILELAKE Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Kit Interchangeable Fork Coil Extractor Tool Set https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XXHDT3RE4W5RY2Y2G4RV)
  16. Traveling today -I can get it together along with the sway bar links I bought & I’m happy with - they’ll go on my Pathy next. I’m not an expert on Polyurethane but I’ve gathered enough info to know there’s a notable & predictable difference in the firmness & quality of different brands. I’m always in favor of value so I looked elsewhere but ultimately came to the conclusion based on the advice if those more knowledgeable than myself that the SuperPro at AC/Automotive Customizers/4x4 parts are the best choice. I have a personal distaste for the company as I don’t generally feel they give good value (especially on shipping) & I very much dislike that their springs are a complete unknown-simply bought on faith (though now with a reasonable track record). So, it’s saying something that the Lion’s share of my poly-for both trucks-is from them. The split trailing arm bushings are incredibly easy to install. Regarding alignment & struts. I have no idea if this is generally true but my experience was that the Pathy with ARB OME HD springs & struts & a 100# bumper (now 170# with the winch) tracked perfectly after the install whereas the Q with ARB OME HD springs & KYB Excel-G struts had visible camber & somewhat frightening oversteer. I didn’t need camber bolts on the Pathy but they solved my problem on the Q (they’re listed above)
  17. Two import things to know with the front suspension. Also, fix your Power Valves if you haven’t already
  18. Tyler knows what he’s talking about & I agree completely. You might find that you don’t mind a little bit of lift. I have a 2002 Pathfinder that I bought new & have now notably modified. On the other hand, I also recently bought a 2002 QX4 which I want to keep OEM+. It has new KYB Excel G struts & new ARB OME HD springs in the front & used ARB OME MD springs with used Bilstein 5100s in the rear. It’s near level. I feel the front might be a tiny bit higher - if so, it could be due to the HD springs up front or that the MD springs in the rear are a little tired from hauling[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] trailer around for a couple years. (To be fair, everywhere I say “I “, it probably should be “we”, as he has helped me on virtually everything.) I’ll note I did need to use camber bolts on the Q with KYB-G struts. My Pathy with the same ARB OME HD springs but ARB struts instead did not require camber bolts; however, the Pathy has a 100# bumper on front. I think[mention=41900]Pathydude17[/mention] suggestion of a MD front spring would be a good choice for your goals. You should not need spacers on the suspension & you won’t need them on the wheel if you stay less than 31” tire diameter. I also replaced all my rear bushings with SuperPro poly from AC/4x4 parts. I drove my Pathy new & I have around 140K in the seat of an R50. The Q really drives wonderfully-definitely better than stock but in a refined, comfortable way. The Q’s lift is really minimal & suits it well. I’ll put on new Toyo AT3s this year but I intend to do “skinnies” to keep them within the fenders & a diameter no greater than about 30.5” so that the spare will fit underneath with my OEM hitch. Finally, I would encourage you to be open to some light offroading. These trucks are amazingly capable. I drove my Pathy stock over most of the CO passes as well as around the White Rim Trail & all over the SW. I traveled carefully as I was often remote & solo. My goal was to explore but I avoided body damage at all cost as I simply couldn’t afford it & I wanted my truck to look nice. You can treat your truck gently & still have some inspiring outdoor adventures. OME Springs Heavy Duty 2928 110-220# Spring Rate Medium Duty 2923 50-110# Spring Rate Light Duty 2921 Rear Medium Duty (2922) ARB
  19. 100% I test drove 2002 Pathfinders & 4Runners back to back in 2002 when I bought mine. The 4Runner was a disappointment in every way to me at the time. On the other hand, I thought the Pathfinder looked blasé but it’s engine, handling, AWD system & MUCH nicer interior & creature comforts sold it to me. As a consequence, I’ve never thought much of 3rd Gen 4Runners & have never regretted it. Had the 4th Gen 4Runner been out yet, I probably would have bought it. And I’m definitely not anti-Toyota, I have a 5th Gen 4Runner & LOVE the GXs.
  20. What is BAT? Autotrader? I’ve used cars.com, autotrader, Craigslist & recently FaceBook Marketplace & OfferUp.
  21. I may be working in Southern OR some & was considering something reliable that I was familiar with for a local car instead of a rental. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has been looking N Cal to PNW for a friend recently & is attuned to the market. The PNW is traditionally one of the most expensive new & used markets in the nation. This was backed up when I ran a nationwide spread sheet on 2012 & 2013 Infiniti G37xS back in 2015. I also bought a new 2018 4Runner & negotiated in Toyota’s PNW, Intermountain & Upper Midwest markets, ultimately ordering out of KCMO. I literally saved several thousand dollars on each vehicle. We bet we could resell that beige 2001 for $6,000-6,500 in the Seattle area with no problem. My cut point was about $5,400 because, if I changed my mind, I felt I could still recoup sales tax, auction fee, gas & insurance at that level without any concern. I was hoping it would go for $6,500-8,000 so I wouldn’t feel bad. I wouldn’t buy one from a dealer but there are ones with twice the miles being sold as high as $8,000 here.
  22. Looking at the website, it’s also of note that you have to pay them a couple hundred as a fee on top of the price. It’s probably my least favorite color & a shame it has the ‘01 16” wheels instead of the ‘02 17” wheels. Plus, it’ll need a couple hundred for the power valve fix. Overall, the condition looks pretty good though those hood paint defects really demonstrate how well the hood deflector has preserved my own truck. The leather seats are surprisingly worn for 70K. Also interesting to me to see all the little tweaks they made for ‘02, like the steering wheel, grill, seat buckle retainers, & hatch wind deflector. The hood insulation is far more complicated & extensive than mine. Did ‘01 LE’s not come with a matching alloy spare?
  23. Another great area is West of Boulder, UT & the Burr trail - particularly the Wolverine Cyn areas. I also really enjoyed “Behind the Swell”, NW of Hanksville as well as the area E of there from the Horshoe Cyn unit down through the Maze & further South. Finally, lots off of Hole in the Rock Rd S of Escalante. Summer is probably going to be too hot, even for an Arizonan. September & October are better though you occasionally have to watch for rain. Don’t be anywhere in Cyn Country with rain upwatershed from you. Several years ago we were deep in the Wolverine area, noted clouds higher in the watershed & retreated. That afternoon/evening two separate groups drowned in flash floods.

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