RainGoat

Those numbers just don’t seem right. I paid $84.49 USD TOTAL ($32.92 part +$51.57 shipping) from LR Direct in England to Seattle, WA, USA less than a year ago.

Which is which? H190 Left; H233 Right?

Ha ha, who would have ever thought that you’d need to go to an Isuzu Rodeo for parts (I believe the whole Honda Passport line was simply rebadged until Honda replaced it with their own homegrown Pilot in ‘02).

Who’s Admin these days - this thread should get retitled ABS in order for people to find it later.

[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & @02_Pathy have both done it to switch to poly & their experience would echo the above post.

My info: OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] $167@Desert Rat/4WP Rear Brake Line [bHH BH381108] $19.79($17.99+$1.80t)@O’Reilly You don’t need to extend the rear diff breather to lift. I have the following & the stock line still works fine. If you are going to extend it, use 1/4” fuel line ~20-25’ & run it to the engine bay firewall while you’re at it. Britpart NRC9448 +4", 225# Spring Rate, Blue/Red; from LR 90 Defender-RearRH, 110 & 130 Heavy Duty-Front RH $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from LR Direct

Completely agree that rear LR springs have really made all other options obsolete. Mine were $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from LR Direct - ordered on a Friday afternoon & on my porch in Seattle before noon on Monday. ARB OME HD in front will support the weight of a bumper, no problem. I have 97# up there - it was dangerous with my old OEM springs, installed ARB OME HD & struts & I can’t even feel it. Soon I’ll have another 70# with winch & lights & I expect it will take it fine. The OME rides better than stock - very nice! @02_Pathy had just about the best optimized 2” lift rig I’ve seen (he now has an SFD). Honestly, unless you’re a rock crawler, you really don’t need more than 2” lift.

Those are good looking steelies for sure!

Those are good looking steelies for sure!

Very nice!! Good job.

Also, I believe those useless plastic hooks pass through as well. You could feed it through one of them or pull the plastic & put a grommet in.

I’m talking about OEM HIDs in my other vehicles - the excellent light output, but at 5-6,000K, is just a world different than the old 2700K halogens when it comes to reflectivity. Usually a good thing but not in heavy snow. I’ve come to the conclusion they’re nearly undrivable in a whiteout where you could have made it work with the old halogens. As a result, I’m putting an amber alternative on our family MDX after that experience.

I installed a backup cam in my Mom’s old Jeep Grand Cherokee. I ended up drilling a hole in the tailgate behind the license plate, painting the edges & putting a grommet in the hole to mostly seal it up. It worked pretty well for the couple years until it dropped its #4 valve seat & the hemi was no more.

Or try an amber.@TowndawgR50 replaced his bumper auxiliary lights & his roof LED bar with amber & it’s great. He loves it as a driver & I prefer it both following & being followed by him. It should definitely reflect less. My experiences last year in a white out have convinced me that all my cars that might see snow need an amber option as HID are just too reflective - of course, with LEDs they won’t burn off the snow so it’s nit a perfect solution.

@hawairish 4 Way Cams? Awesome! I’ve only wanted a reverse & forward undercarriage cam for about 18 years. I finally have a head unit that will accommodated 2 camera inputs & have just been waiting until the final rear setup is settled to mount them. After seeing[mention=41155]R50JR[/mention] Spoiler mount, I think I’ll go that direction & get it done this spring. How are you going to get the ability to have 4 camera inputs. As I’m often just with my kids these days, that sounds super attractive!

That’s a nice compressor. A guy I run with uses one. They are easy to build in to a 2nd battery space in a 4Runner but I’m not sure how you’re going to fit it in the engine bay of a Pathfinder (it’s pretty big). Here’s that 4Runner write-up in case that helps: https://trail4runner.com/2019/10/22/smittybilt-on-board-air-5th-gen-4runner/

Just to be clear - I completely agree. The ability to unlock the front hubs & drive in 2WD is essentially indistinguishable from normal 2WD. Driving it locked however, is extremely noticeable - especially on pavement. It strongly want to self-center & is quite heavy by comparison to OEM. I use AWD most of the time given our nearly constantly wet roads here in the PNW plus I find AWD superior to 4Hi for gravel & packed dirt, sand, and snow (primarily because it avoids “plowing” or understeer with turns). Actually, my biggest regret with our 5thGen 4Runner is the lack of AWD (you need a Limited to get it).

The driving characteristics with the Lokka are notably different. Personally, I would only use it on a toy, not a daily driver. It makes the front quite heavy feeling & pulling to center. It’s a steal for what you get & it works great offroad but I sold mine off as I’m too used to my ATX14a. You should definitely drive a vehicle with one before adding one. I think it’s best in a part time 4x4 system with unlockable hubs where you can rely on 2WD for all of your street driving. That said, if those conditions match & you have an LSD, it’s the most bang for the buck by a wide margin. Personally, I would have thought rear locker over front but having heard from all those here & in Australia with Lokkas, I have completely changed my mind. It’s particularly useful that “pulling” yourself up a hill is infinitely safer with regard to keeping you in line & avoiding rollovers, etc. than “pushing” up a hill.

I’ve seen a couple but none in person

I think only [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention], [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] & [mention=42085]Rockit[/mention] have front & rear locked. You might be happy with a front locker & rear LSD like [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], [mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention], & myself. If an autolocker works for your uses, the front Lokka is very reasonable - I believe [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], [mention=42041]jg1123[/mention] & [mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention] are all running Lokkas up front. I’ll be installing a front ARB when regearing this coming year.

As the happy recipient of the full set, I know you’ve got more fun pictures than that one!

Sorry about that- here are my OEM part notes OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com Just reused the rubber isolators on the springs themselves - wish I had new ones when I did it. We did rotate it to a less used surface where we could. @hawairish improvised with some hose or tube if I recall correctly.

Oops, forgot we weren’t talking about a R50