RainGoat

Yeah, some of them get fidgety at the lower settings. My original didn’t, my replacement does

Those are both excellent recommendations. I’d forgotten about the dimmer. We accidentally fried one of mine back in ‘04 & my replacement is a little touchy. You can bypass it to see if that fixes the problem.

Just pull them all & look. It should be inside. These are your fuse boxes: BTW, they make fuses that glow when blown. A little expensive but can be handy. I replaced all of them in my Mom’s truck with glow fuses after having to pull ALL of her fuses twice to find the blown fuse.

I think his holes for those clips have either eroded or torn through - you have to magnify to see it

Not my truck but an inquiry by a non-forum member (Edit - now new Forum member [mention=43340]SaveTheManuals[/mention] ) My advice: On the bottom is at least the best place for that. I’d first try making another hole a little inboard. Another option that would be easy is some 3M double sided tape. All of those approaches would be cheap & easy & you’re out nothing but a little tape cleanup if they fail. Considering 3M tape holds spoilers on cars, it should be able to do that - just be sure to clean the application surface with something like alcohol first.

As above, you should address the springs & shocks. Bilstein 5100 shocks with LR NRC 9449 - that’s the same 225# spring rate as the NRC 9448 but with a lesser lift (typically ~2-2.5” as opposed to ~4”). There are the NRC 9446 or 9447 but they are 175# spring rate & it seems like you’d benefit from the 225#. You order from Britpart & they arrive in about 2-4 days for less than $100. There’s no reason to do AC springs at all - maybe a couple reasons not to & Rancho shocks aren’t much cheaper but are less smooth than Bilstein by most peoples account. Here’s a cut & paste from another response regarding AirLifts. Personally, I’d spend a little more on springs & shocks because it will perform better, be more reliable & will be safer. I’ve run AirLifts with the bump stops in place for about 12 years. (Same in my Mom’s JGC). While I like the airlifts (& they are cheap, about $100), they progressively deflate over time & twice I blew them out accidentally. Add to that the simple possibility of on trail failure & I wanted the reassurance that still having the bump stops in place gave me. The AirLifts are very hardy & can take it with no problem. I also ran the AirLifts through a single t’d line so I wouldn’t unknowingly have a single side failure. Make sure you check them at least monthly. They need to always have a little residual pressure in them. If you don’t, they will inevitably get pinched & fail. BTW, I had to drill out the hole in the spring mount just a bit to get them to fit properly. Also, I have taken them in & out numerous times without removing anything- just jack that side of the truck up & lubricate the air bag - soapy water even worked just fine. It’s a bit of a struggle but less work than dismantling everything.

I ran my AirLifts with the bump stops in place for about 12 years. (Same in my Mom’s JGC). While I like the airlifts, they progressively deflate over time & twice I blew them out accidentally. Add to that the simple possibility of on trail failure & I wanted the reassurance that still having the bump stops in place gave me. The AirLifts are very hardy & can take it with no problem. I also ran the AirLifts through a single t’d line so I wouldn’t unknowingly have a single side failure. Make sure you check them at least monthly. They need to always have a little residual pressure in them. If you don’t, they will inevitably get pinched & fail. BTW, I had to drill out the hole in the spring mount just a bit to get them to fit properly. Also, I have taken them in & out numerous times without removing anything- just jack that side of the truck up & lubricate the air bag - soapy water even worked just fine. It’s a bit of a struggle but less work than dismantling everything.

Honestly, just use TapaTalk. I can post from my phone with super ease. I do think I may have paid an extra bit for that but completely worth it. I haven’t worried about photos on any of my TapaTalk forums for years. Also, I would second the above comments regarding the FaceBook NPORA group - it’s not only not associated, it’s likely an intellectual property rights infringement on Mr. Jim’s creation. It’s a Wild West of often crazy & unsafe ideas & practices. Not only do I not refer people there, but as a matter of conscience, I give them warning. While IG is also not technically associated, it is much more reasonable- perhaps secondary to its format.

An alpine lake evening!

Wow, lots of work! Looks Great. Personally, I think a half inch of rake sounds perfect.

Love your NPORA handle!

Sadly, I’d say the problem is with Nissan not acknowledging problems & fixing them in an effort to take care of their customers (i.e., power valve screws). Toyota is much better at managing its customers & making sure they feel safe & well cared for. While I can’t speak to the pickup market, I’d never buy a Nissan these days & that’s all I’ve personally owned in 36 years (meaning not my wife’s or parent’s vehicles).

Some PNW Trail Time

Another skid plate option is Coastal Offroad though I’d check to be sure it fits an OEM bumper. https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/r50-nissan-pathfinder-high-clearance-front-bumper-kit

Yeah, be very careful with the clips, especially the “chrome” surround - almost impossible to bot break some due to old plastic. Understand that the “grill” includes the paint matched side pieces so it may require painting if you want it to match - that was my main stumbling block for changing it out.[mention=41900]pathydude17[/mention] pics demonstrate this pretty clearly. Also, it’s worth noting that there are slight differences between the 2001 & 2002-4 grill emblems which may translate into a different mount.

Ah, I’d edit that initial post as it sounds like you’re parting it out. What part of Canada are you in?

Ditto

Wow! That’s an ‘01? I take it the beach you’re on is an ocean beach? No matter how careful you are, that salt just gets in there. I was recently working on my Mom’s 2018 4Runner & was shocked to see it was more rusty than my ‘02 Path. I think it must have been just her rare winter use in KC (also, I’ve become progressively more convinced that Toyota just doesn’t do a great job with rust prevention.

For what it’s worth, my wife has been along for most of my trucks 18yrs & >100K. On the very first drive with the OME fronts & LR/Bilstein rears, my wife spontaneously asked about 10 minutes into the drive what I’d done to make it drive so much better. Ride is very subjective & your sense of it may be much finer than the average owner. Alot of the younger & newer guys just don’t have the seat time or are going from worn out OEM setups to something new so anything is better. Given your age & experience, I think you’ll notice the differences more than you might realize. I’ve found that I’ve driven other owners R50s & can feel something “off” that they just don’t have the experience to identify yet. To be honest, the nearly imperceptible new drivetrain hum from my lift is a constant annoyance to both my wife and myself. After 2 decades without it, it hits our subconscious “somethings not right” sense. I’ve had it checked over several times by[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who assures me it’s okay. Unfortunately, it’s just ingrained in us & almost impossible to ignore.

Yeah, damn Covid. Another member said Desert Rat told them were on back order too.

Oops, 9448s, they are the same 225# spring rate as the 9449s, only taller (for my SFD).

You, like me, have driven your truck for a LONG time. I suspect you will be bothered by the harshness of the AC springs compared to OEM & OME. That is why I went with OME, I knew that after 2 decades & >100K of driving that truck, I would be unhappy with a harsh ride. That said, I’ve never driven one with AC springs so I can’t tell you if that’s actually true but it does seem to be the consensus of those who have driven both. The LR Springs, on the other hand, drive wonderfully. I have the 9448 & couldn’t be happier. I don’t know of anyone with complaints. They are less than $100 to your door so I really don’t see any reason why anyone would use anything but them now. I think the real question will become, is there an LR spring upgrade we should be considering....

Correct, that’s consistent with what I said.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] LE does NOT have it, my ‘02 LE does. In ‘02 it was standard on the LE, 100% sure of that as I bought mine new & only option mine came with was the floor mats. Mounting system changed from ‘01 to ‘02 as well. I looked in ‘01 but held off a year for the brighter silver - though I’ve always loved the SE grill & the ‘01 SE charcoal fenders & bumper.

Actually, I believe they were standard on LE, at least as of ‘02 (mine had it when I bought it new & it wasn’t an option, whereas@TowndawgR50 is an LE & does not have it). The attachment design changed from ‘01 to ‘02-‘04. As of ‘02 it is 2 units that are the hinge & the pylon, before that (at least in the U.S., the hing & spoiler pylon were separate units - I believe the pylon/riser was outboard of the hatch hinge.

Totally, it’s like it’s made to fit there in the most efficient fashion. It would also then be a weatherproof container for other car parts. Sadly, no room for it.