RainGoat

Yeah, if you think you’re likely to encounter deeper water, most of us use 1/4” fuel line & run it up to the engine bay. ~20-25’ for about that many $

I believe[mention=37543]towndawgr50[/mention] may be fashioning another pair for me (or was I getting a used set of something from you[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]?). I’ll need to look. I’ve got the LR 9448 but I haven’t noticed that I’ve got a problem yet.

I just did it with this one from Amazon Denso 234-4713 O2 Sensor(Downstream Right) $55.86($50.78+$5.08) Remember to use anti-seize You’ll have to pull the plastic engine cover to get to the green plug in on the rear passenger side of the engine - well, maybe not, but it’s alot easier.

I have & use the Rola Rack on my Pathy. I think it looks great & it’s very economical. It’s steel requires upkeep in a way that aluminum would not & its surprisingly tricky to use with tie downs - primarily because of it’s 1.5” thick perimeter bar which fits nothing. I’ve come to use soft loops on the bars themselves to make it work.

Coming from the part-time 4Runner world, flat racks can be surprisingly expensive. Prinsu & Frontrunner (less so Easy Awn) are the primary vendors of lateral running aluminum bars or slats. Rhino makes a longitudinal slat version that has nice wide slats & it reportedly quieter due to being longitudinal. T-nuts, including some that drop in & twist to lock let you put all kinds of stuff on these flat racks. Just check out Amazon & apply to standard mounts & you’ll avoid the outrageous fees for the proprietal mounts. Also, there is rubber strip you can pop into the slots if you want that for protection or friction. There are different series with different sizes for different applications so it’s useful to know which series you need. I couldn’t find a great description of it but Wikipedia touches on it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-slot_structural_framing

I think there are actually 3 versions of Load Bars plus the luggage bars that @hawarish mentioned. The 2002-4 are the strongest & most robust. For some reason, the 2001 & I presume other mid years have a system very similar to the 2002+ but just not quite as hefty. The earlier “low profile” load bars are notably weaker. There have been members who have had those fail on them. I looked at them in detail but was disappointed in their quality compared to my ‘02 LE. If you go that route, I’d consider using 3. The luggage bars test on the roof & are really more of a protection against bags or suit cases than a true load bearing bar.

Did you paint the LR springs white?

I’m upon Seattle’s Eastside - there are a number of us up here & a few more up in BC. When I went back & looked at your link it looked like it was advertising a 200# spring rate.

You have the backspacing right but I’m surprised there aren’t 16” options. The Dobinsons sound interesting & a new alternative to AC would be great for all the reasons you stated. I see they’re 200# spring rate. Where in OR are you? Great state to explore & some excellent Overlanding groups. You should follow@stpickens

Ha ha [mention=39321]mjotrainbrain[/mention] - that’s what [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] said - too urban. Those were just 2 spares from a set of 5th Gen TRD Off-Road Premium TakeOffs I picked up to split among my Mom & some T4R friends (Toyota is too cheap to include a 5th Alloy - it’s a steelie). The 8 Holes are from one such friend’s son’s ‘12 FJ. They were a kindly gift to me. By the end of next year I’ll probably be running both the 8Holes & the OEM 6 spokes with a set of new “Off-Road” tires on one & a set of street tire for Oct/Nov - April/May on the other. I just need to decide which is which - might do the 8Holes for on-season just to mix it up a bit. BTW both are 17” wheels & fit 265/70R17s up front- though the strut clearance was less than a finger. Of some amusement, each wheel represents another decade.

You know the Nissan Pathfinder R50 But have you seen the Nisyota FJ Finder Or the Toysan PathRunner I think my Nissan & Toyota DNA are starting to mix!?! Or at least my girl stepped in something!

Ugh! That’s terrible news. You can if course get one for cheaper at a JY - though it too will be older. Funny, I just stripped down an R50 and abandoned getting the door seals & didn’t think of the lock actuator - damn!

Yeah, some of them get fidgety at the lower settings. My original didn’t, my replacement does

Those are both excellent recommendations. I’d forgotten about the dimmer. We accidentally fried one of mine back in ‘04 & my replacement is a little touchy. You can bypass it to see if that fixes the problem.

Just pull them all & look. It should be inside. These are your fuse boxes: BTW, they make fuses that glow when blown. A little expensive but can be handy. I replaced all of them in my Mom’s truck with glow fuses after having to pull ALL of her fuses twice to find the blown fuse.

I think his holes for those clips have either eroded or torn through - you have to magnify to see it

Not my truck but an inquiry by a non-forum member (Edit - now new Forum member [mention=43340]SaveTheManuals[/mention] ) My advice: On the bottom is at least the best place for that. I’d first try making another hole a little inboard. Another option that would be easy is some 3M double sided tape. All of those approaches would be cheap & easy & you’re out nothing but a little tape cleanup if they fail. Considering 3M tape holds spoilers on cars, it should be able to do that - just be sure to clean the application surface with something like alcohol first.

As above, you should address the springs & shocks. Bilstein 5100 shocks with LR NRC 9449 - that’s the same 225# spring rate as the NRC 9448 but with a lesser lift (typically ~2-2.5” as opposed to ~4”). There are the NRC 9446 or 9447 but they are 175# spring rate & it seems like you’d benefit from the 225#. You order from Britpart & they arrive in about 2-4 days for less than $100. There’s no reason to do AC springs at all - maybe a couple reasons not to & Rancho shocks aren’t much cheaper but are less smooth than Bilstein by most peoples account. Here’s a cut & paste from another response regarding AirLifts. Personally, I’d spend a little more on springs & shocks because it will perform better, be more reliable & will be safer. I’ve run AirLifts with the bump stops in place for about 12 years. (Same in my Mom’s JGC). While I like the airlifts (& they are cheap, about $100), they progressively deflate over time & twice I blew them out accidentally. Add to that the simple possibility of on trail failure & I wanted the reassurance that still having the bump stops in place gave me. The AirLifts are very hardy & can take it with no problem. I also ran the AirLifts through a single t’d line so I wouldn’t unknowingly have a single side failure. Make sure you check them at least monthly. They need to always have a little residual pressure in them. If you don’t, they will inevitably get pinched & fail. BTW, I had to drill out the hole in the spring mount just a bit to get them to fit properly. Also, I have taken them in & out numerous times without removing anything- just jack that side of the truck up & lubricate the air bag - soapy water even worked just fine. It’s a bit of a struggle but less work than dismantling everything.

I ran my AirLifts with the bump stops in place for about 12 years. (Same in my Mom’s JGC). While I like the airlifts, they progressively deflate over time & twice I blew them out accidentally. Add to that the simple possibility of on trail failure & I wanted the reassurance that still having the bump stops in place gave me. The AirLifts are very hardy & can take it with no problem. I also ran the AirLifts through a single t’d line so I wouldn’t unknowingly have a single side failure. Make sure you check them at least monthly. They need to always have a little residual pressure in them. If you don’t, they will inevitably get pinched & fail. BTW, I had to drill out the hole in the spring mount just a bit to get them to fit properly. Also, I have taken them in & out numerous times without removing anything- just jack that side of the truck up & lubricate the air bag - soapy water even worked just fine. It’s a bit of a struggle but less work than dismantling everything.

A 3.5 R50 will have no problem towing. With the 3.5 you don’t need the manual, though they can be fun. The VAST majority are auto though.

Honestly, just use TapaTalk. I can post from my phone with super ease. I do think I may have paid an extra bit for that but completely worth it. I haven’t worried about photos on any of my TapaTalk forums for years. Also, I would second the above comments regarding the FaceBook NPORA group - it’s not only not associated, it’s likely an intellectual property rights infringement on Mr. Jim’s creation. It’s a Wild West of often crazy & unsafe ideas & practices. Not only do I not refer people there, but as a matter of conscience, I give them warning. While IG is also not technically associated, it is much more reasonable- perhaps secondary to its format.

An alpine lake evening!

Wow, lots of work! Looks Great. Personally, I think a half inch of rake sounds perfect.

Love your NPORA handle!

I’m not going to lie, it’s pretty nice - here were two of our stops before coming back to the lake up the street. And its a Douglas Fir - Redwoods are California, it’s pretty much all Doug fir here.